lafester
Well-known member
The grinder is looking great! With all of these insane quotes for glass maybe I should get a bunch made up for people. When I get around to checking for my Baldor I will inquire about some other sizes and volume pricing.
Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Use the vinegar and then rinse, then neutralize with baking soda water, THEN blow dry and heat the thing to get ALL the water out...
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Sounds like a plan. Thanks Outlaw!
ZBear
Well-known member
Here is one in Des Moines that isn't too badly priced: $75
https://desmoines.craigslist.org/tls/d/des-moines-vintage-craftsman-drill-press/7077224057.html
https://desmoines.craigslist.org/tls/d/des-moines-vintage-craftsman-drill-press/7077224057.html
DaveT
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
itsDROCK: DP#2 is a beauty! Love the color. Can you share what you used?
itsDROCK: DP#2 is a beauty! Love the color. Can you share what you used?
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Thank you! The color of the drill press is Rustoleum Flat Metallic Soft Iron. The table lift is Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray. Someone else on here used Soft Iron Ore on their drill press and I decided to use it too. The engine-turned panel was in rough shape so it has a vinyl sticker over it. I decided not to put the model number plate back on the base because 1/4 of it was badly corroded. I'm already looking forward to the next DP.
Thank you! The color of the drill press is Rustoleum Flat Metallic Soft Iron. The table lift is Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray. Someone else on here used Soft Iron Ore on their drill press and I decided to use it too. The engine-turned panel was in rough shape so it has a vinyl sticker over it. I decided not to put the model number plate back on the base because 1/4 of it was badly corroded. I'm already looking forward to the next DP.
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smalltown
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
I second Frank's wow. It looks like it was just bought new !
Finished up DP #2 today.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I second Frank's wow. It looks like it was just bought new !
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bsorcs
Member
Re: Craftsman Drill Press accessory
So, has anyone mounted a mortising attachment on a 150? I have tried several searches on this site sans success. The quill od [1.625"/41.275mm] does not seem amenable to something like the delta 17-924, which can be had for not too many $$.
After getting my 3-phase motor and drum switch successfully wired I have been drilling 1/4-inch plate with ease. Many smiles. I'd now like to be able to do some mortising. Suggestions?
bs
So, has anyone mounted a mortising attachment on a 150? I have tried several searches on this site sans success. The quill od [1.625"/41.275mm] does not seem amenable to something like the delta 17-924, which can be had for not too many $$.
After getting my 3-phase motor and drum switch successfully wired I have been drilling 1/4-inch plate with ease. Many smiles. I'd now like to be able to do some mortising. Suggestions?
bs
Indexmill
Well-known member
Indexmill
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Absolutely beautiful color on the DP. Did you shoot the pix in B&W?
Absolutely beautiful color on the DP. Did you shoot the pix in B&W?
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Thank you. Nope, just in color. This was one of my first times using a real camera .. I pretended like I knew what I was doing lol
Thank you. Nope, just in color. This was one of my first times using a real camera .. I pretended like I knew what I was doing lol
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Re: Craftsman Drill Press accessory
Sure you can... but its called a broach!
Jee wizz; you can't mortise 1/4 inch plate...
Sure you can... but its called a broach!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The base is usually larger on the floor models.
Having said that pics of your base? Some have CUT the tube down to make a floor stander into a bench top...
Having said that pics of your base? Some have CUT the tube down to make a floor stander into a bench top...
I don't have any good pictures on my phone. I'll take some tomorrow with measurements. I thought maybe the base would be bigger but wasn't sure. I know that it's heavy. It was all I could do to pick it up.
When i moved it to the shop i got smart and used the cherry picker to move it around.
When i moved it to the shop i got smart and used the cherry picker to move it around.
The answer is maybe.
Generally, as long as they are the similar vintage, you can easily swap out a Craftsman floor standing column into a Craftsman bench top head frame and table.
King-Seeley and U.S.A. Emerson Electric parts are easily swapped. I'm not familiar with later imported EE machines.
You may have problems swapping pre-war Atlas parts with post-war King-Seeley parts.
You are likely to have problems swapping other manufacturer's columns into Craftsman parts.
You are likely to have problems using steel tubes from a steel supplier as a Craftsman drill press column.
As Outlaw already pointed out, you may need to address stability issues using a bench top base as a floor standing base.
Check this post: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6723384
Looking forward to pictures of your machine.
Atlas Spring Housing Repair
2/22/2020
I frequently receive private messages and emails seeking help on various issues folks are having with their drill press. This post was prompted by a recent message about a broken Atlas-made spring housing.
I believe that all pre-war Atlas manufactured drill presses were equipped with a flat clock-spring style feed return springs. There were two styles of spring housings, a quick adjusting ratchet and pawl style, and a direct mount pin and slot style, shown below.
The housing on the pin and slot style is sometimes broken. The slots break off, rendering the housing useless. This usually requires an expensive replacement, if one can be found, or some kind of fix.
The above photos used with permission by RB.
This style of spring housing is secured to the head frame casting with two pins. When installed, spring tension rotates the housing so the pins remain secure in the L-shaped slot.
To adjust spring tension, the housing is rotated counter clockwise, pulled out of the casting until the pins are free from the slot and rotated in either direction to loosen or tighten spring tension. The housing is then inserted back into the casting to engage the pins in the slots.
To make a broken housing usable again, new slots could be cut, but IMO, that is a difficult task to cut and align them correctly. I think here is an easier and more accurate repair... replace the pins with screws.
Those pins are essentially headless drive screws/panel screws. They can be driven out of the head frame casting with a punch.
I believe those holes were drilled with a #28 bit... perfect for an 8-32 tap. The lower hole is easy to tap, but access to the upper hole makes tapping more difficult.
I had to break the cutting threads off the shaft of the tap. I used two jam nuts on the end of the cutting threads and a ratcheting wrench to tap the upper hole.
After the holes are tapped in the casting,
Save the original pins. They can be reinserted into the tapped holes if a new housing is found.
To adjust spring tension,
As another test, I also drilled and tapped for 1/4-20 dog-point set screws.
Notes:
I used screws and nuts that I had on hand. Appropriate length screws would look and work better.
I did not have a spring housing to drill and test.
2/22/2020
I frequently receive private messages and emails seeking help on various issues folks are having with their drill press. This post was prompted by a recent message about a broken Atlas-made spring housing.
I believe that all pre-war Atlas manufactured drill presses were equipped with a flat clock-spring style feed return springs. There were two styles of spring housings, a quick adjusting ratchet and pawl style, and a direct mount pin and slot style, shown below.
The housing on the pin and slot style is sometimes broken. The slots break off, rendering the housing useless. This usually requires an expensive replacement, if one can be found, or some kind of fix.
The above photos used with permission by RB.
This style of spring housing is secured to the head frame casting with two pins. When installed, spring tension rotates the housing so the pins remain secure in the L-shaped slot.
To adjust spring tension, the housing is rotated counter clockwise, pulled out of the casting until the pins are free from the slot and rotated in either direction to loosen or tighten spring tension. The housing is then inserted back into the casting to engage the pins in the slots.
To make a broken housing usable again, new slots could be cut, but IMO, that is a difficult task to cut and align them correctly. I think here is an easier and more accurate repair... replace the pins with screws.
Those pins are essentially headless drive screws/panel screws. They can be driven out of the head frame casting with a punch.
I believe those holes were drilled with a #28 bit... perfect for an 8-32 tap. The lower hole is easy to tap, but access to the upper hole makes tapping more difficult.
I had to break the cutting threads off the shaft of the tap. I used two jam nuts on the end of the cutting threads and a ratcheting wrench to tap the upper hole.
After the holes are tapped in the casting,
- locate and mark two spots on the the housing approximately 45 degrees off from the broken slots.
- insert the spring housing into the head frame casting and drill through the lower tapped hole and through the spring housing
- remove the housing and drill the new through hole in the housing just large enough for the 8-32 set screw
- insert the housing into the head frame casting so the new hole is at the upper casting tapped hole
- insert an 8-32 x 3/4" set screw into the upper hole and through the new hole of the housing only as deep as the original pin
- drill through the lower tapped hole again and through the spring housing
- remove the housing and drill the new through hole in the housing just large enough for the 8-32 set screw
- insert an 8-32 x 3/4" set screw into the lower hole and through the new hole of the housing only as deep as the original pin
- install jam nuts on the set screws to keep them tight
Save the original pins. They can be reinserted into the tapped holes if a new housing is found.
To adjust spring tension,
- hold the spring housing
- back out both set screws so they are free from the spring housing
- adjust desired spring tension
- thread in set screws into the new holes in the housing
- tighten jam nuts on set screws
As another test, I also drilled and tapped for 1/4-20 dog-point set screws.
Notes:
I used screws and nuts that I had on hand. Appropriate length screws would look and work better.
I did not have a spring housing to drill and test.
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T.K.B.
Member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Awesome DP.
Love the hammertone paint.
Finished up DP #2 today.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Awesome DP.
Love the hammertone paint.
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Marctrees
Well-known member
Thought someone in this thread may be interested - C man DP for sale - Atlanta -
Marc
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=444268
Marc
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=444268
First time poster here. Looks like an interesting site. I have a 1937-38 floor model Craftsman drill press (unrestored) that works wonderfully after all these years. But I need to tighten the spring mechanism up for the quill and don't know how to do it. All the pieces are there but I have to bring the quill up manually now with the handle. I don't want to mess anything up. Can someone help? Thank you.
Hello Bob, and welcome!
First, pre-war Atlas-made machines had a flat clock-spring style of feed return spring. I believe this style of spring was more susceptible to breaking, so that's an unfortunate possibility on your machine.
Second, there are two styles of spring housings. We need to know which style you have before we can help.
Pictures of your machine would help greatly, but click on the photos below to enlarge and identify which style you have.
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.
It looks like the one on the left. I can take the flat plate off to access the spring and it looks in fine shape. I can turn the assembly a degree or two counterclock-wise and the spring works correctly. Looking straight at the assembly from the left side of the head, there is a small screw with a round knob in the 1:00 o'clock position of the spring assembly that I can remove with no affect, but there is a nut under that that I have not touched.
Also, under the head, there is a screw & locking nut that looks like it may be an adjustment for the spring, also. I have not fooled with that either.
It looks like the one on the left. I can take the flat plate off to access the spring and it looks in fine shape. I can turn the assembly a degree or two counterclock-wise and the spring works correctly. Looking straight at the assembly from the left side of the head, there is a small screw with a round knob in the 1:00 o'clock position of the spring assembly that I can remove with no affect, but there is a nut under that that I have not touched.
Also, under the head, there is a screw & locking nut that looks like it may be an adjustment for the spring, also. I have not fooled with that either.
OK. Good news on the condition of the spring.
That small knob is attached to a pawl that ratchets on teeth on the inboard side of the spring housing.
Grab hold of the spring housing with your left hand and pull the knob straight out in the 1 o'clock direction to release the pawl. Rotate the spring housing in the counter clockwise direction to increase feed return tension.
You may need to spray the parts with a lubricant or wd-40. Things may be gummed up somewhat. I believe you should be able to rotate and ratchet the spring housing CCW without manually pulling out the pawl if the pawl is clean and lubricated. It's been a long time since I've worked on one of those.
Here's what the pawl looks like:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-At...791800?hash=item3422f529f8:g:yOwAAOSwcaZeUc2s
and the spring housing:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-AT...:QI8AAOSwxJxdnoOy:sc:USPSPriority!48317!US!-1
The screw and jam nut underneath secure the spring housing into the head frame casting. There is a dog point on that screw that rides in the groove in the housing. IIRC, that screw/nut has 1/4-28 threads.
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Craptain
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Hello Bobp. I see you are a new member and probably can't post pictures yet. Never mind, you'll soon be there.
But as far as your problem goes. If the spring appears to be good then check out other things. How does it move with the handle? Can you feel friction? Is the quill lock sticking? Is the pinion shaft for the lower and return sticking or need cleaning or lubrication?
Maybe it's just time for a good cleaning and lubrication.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Hello Bobp. I see you are a new member and probably can't post pictures yet. Never mind, you'll soon be there.
But as far as your problem goes. If the spring appears to be good then check out other things. How does it move with the handle? Can you feel friction? Is the quill lock sticking? Is the pinion shaft for the lower and return sticking or need cleaning or lubrication?
Maybe it's just time for a good cleaning and lubrication.
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Your picture helps a lot! Machines that have been repainted without dismantling can have problems like this.
I agree with Craptain. You would benefit by cleaning and lubing your machine. That pawl should come out, but you may need to chip off paint before removing. I use a variety of old dental picks to clean off paint from parts. You want that pawl to turn in its housing so it won't damage anything while un-screwing it.
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Quill lock works fine as does everything else, Craptain. I'm sure it all needs some amount of attention, but nothing major. I'll try pulling on that pawl again after some penetrating oil & see if I can loosen it up. I don't want to unscrew the entire pawl assembly out of the housing if I don't need to.
The only other thing I noticed on the drill is a large "rubber" spacer at the top of the spindle shaft that I can see while looking up thru the hole on the right side of the housing that held the on-off switch (the on-off switch is on the motor, now). I can look in and see a bunged up rubber spacer maybe 1.5-2" dia and maybe 1/2" long. Looks like a bumper for the spindle in the "full-up" position. It's kind of torn up and riding off to the side of the spindle as it goes up & down. Without taking the whole head apart, I could either cut it out of there or just leave it. I'm tempted to leave it. That may be the reason why I need a bit more spring return action than I did in years past.
Thanks for all your help, guys. This has been a terrific help.
The only other thing I noticed on the drill is a large "rubber" spacer at the top of the spindle shaft that I can see while looking up thru the hole on the right side of the housing that held the on-off switch (the on-off switch is on the motor, now). I can look in and see a bunged up rubber spacer maybe 1.5-2" dia and maybe 1/2" long. Looks like a bumper for the spindle in the "full-up" position. It's kind of torn up and riding off to the side of the spindle as it goes up & down. Without taking the whole head apart, I could either cut it out of there or just leave it. I'm tempted to leave it. That may be the reason why I need a bit more spring return action than I did in years past.
Thanks for all your help, guys. This has been a terrific help.
Yes, the return feed quill bumper. You may be correct in that it may be interfering with spring tension. If it's off to the side, the splines on the spindle are likely grinding it up.
If you do take your machine apart, you may be able to flip it around and get more life out of it. IIRC, it inserts only about half way into its machined location.
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It's hard to say. It may be acting somewhat as a bumper, even out of place. Without anything, the feed stop bracket will be the feed return stop. You could install an o-ring or something on the quill above the feed stop bracket for a bumper stop like on later King-Seeley models. IIRC, the Atlas quills are a larger diameter than the K-S quills.
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Picked up DP #4 today.... for free! The old man just wanted to give it away. So I made the 114 mile round trip to get my first 150.
The guy said he hasn’t used it in 10 years. I fired up the 1/4hp Westinghouse motor and it ran very smooth & quiet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Picked up DP #4 today.... for free! The old man just wanted to give it away. So I made the 114 mile round trip to get my first 150.
The guy said he hasn’t used it in 10 years. I fired up the 1/4hp Westinghouse motor and it ran very smooth & quiet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
That original paint should clean up beautifully with Grez-Off and Barkeeper's Friend. The table looks flawless. The paint on those pivot motor mount doesn't seem to be as durable as the cast iron paint... very typical.
Congrats! That looks great!
That original paint should clean up beautifully with Grez-Off and Barkeeper's Friend. The table looks flawless. The paint on those pivot motor mount doesn't seem to be as durable as the cast iron paint... very typical.
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lafester
Well-known member
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Nice! The motor pulley appears to be wrong. Not big deal since nobody ever uses that speed.
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Nice! The motor pulley appears to be wrong. Not big deal since nobody ever uses that speed.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
SUCCESS!!!!
I chipped away enough paint around the pawl nut to get some WD40 into the pawl. I was just barely able to pull the pawl knob to tighten the spring up. I removed the bumper and will install an oring on the quill. Once I sprayed some WD40 down the spline shaft at the top of the head, MAN did that loosen things up. Feels brand new now (feels like 1938). Back to drilling holes.
Thanks for your help & guidance. If I get a break in the action, I may just restore it.
Two questions:
1: I found the serial number 101-03662. Could this number verify year of mfg?
2: Any idea what the original color was????
SUCCESS!!!!
I chipped away enough paint around the pawl nut to get some WD40 into the pawl. I was just barely able to pull the pawl knob to tighten the spring up. I removed the bumper and will install an oring on the quill. Once I sprayed some WD40 down the spline shaft at the top of the head, MAN did that loosen things up. Feels brand new now (feels like 1938). Back to drilling holes.
Thanks for your help & guidance. If I get a break in the action, I may just restore it.
Two questions:
1: I found the serial number 101-03662. Could this number verify year of mfg?
2: Any idea what the original color was????