Craftsman Drill Press

[PureLeaf]

I just picked up a what I believe to be an early 100, 15 1/2 inch (battle ship grey in color). I've tried to read as many pages of this thread as I can, google searched through images, Read through accessories and original manuals and I cannot for the life of me figure out what the hole in the front cover was/is for.

Can anyone help me with this?

 

[FrankLee]

I just picked up a what I believe to be an early 100, 15 1/2 inch (battle ship grey in color). I've tried to read as many pages of this thread as I can, google searched through images, Read through accessories and original manuals and I cannot for the life of me figure out what the hole in the front cover was/is for.

Can anyone help me with this?

That hole was drilled by a previous owner presumably for a toggle switch.

 

[PureLeaf]

That hole was drilled by a previous owner presumably for a toggle switch.

Thanks! It was cleanly done, so I thought it was something OEM. Looks like I'll probably try to repair over it then with some body filler.

 

[lafester]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

It was something in there. Nice big mud nests everywhere.
Cleaned them out and found a spring loaded switch that was stuck open.

Starts up nice and strong now so that is good.
Tomorrow I should have some pics of the re-assembled wt.

On a side note I just cleaned up the Craftsman/Atlas hub. That thing is big, heavy cast iron. I'll have to weigh it tomorrow.

Some of that dust probably got between the contacts of the centrifugal switch. Try polishing them up with some 600 grit paper and give it a go.

 

[FrankLee]

I just picked up a what I believe to be an early 100, 15 1/2 inch (battle ship grey in color). I've tried to read as many pages of this thread as I can, google searched through images, Read through accessories and original manuals and I cannot for the life of me figure out what the hole in the front cover was/is for.

Can anyone help me with this?

Kudos for doing the research before asking the question!

Thanks! It was cleanly done, so I thought it was something OEM. Looks like I'll probably try to repair over it then with some body filler.

That's a good plan. Many of these custom switch modifications are on the sides of the head frame casting. Those never bothered me, but I think I'd have to address that one too.

So, does that switch box on the side have ON/OFF and FORWARD/REVERSE switches?

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

It was something in there. Nice big mud nests everywhere.
Cleaned them out and found a spring loaded switch that was stuck open.

Starts up nice and strong now so that is good.
Tomorrow I should have some pics of the re-assembled wt.

On a side note I just cleaned up the Craftsman/Atlas hub. That thing is big, heavy cast iron. I'll have to weigh it tomorrow.

I've had some very nasty motors, but nothing that prevented start-up. Glad it's working.

Looking forward to pictures!


Those Atlas hubs ARE heavy duty and rarely go fubar. They don't sell well on their own. I've got three at the moment. IIRC, the Craftsman branded versions have four handles and the Atlas branded versions have three. The hubs are interchangeable.

 

[cclfn]

Nice find PureLeaf!

 

[PureLeaf]

Kudos for doing the research before asking the question!


That's a good plan. Many of these custom switch modifications are on the sides of the head frame casting. Those never bothered me, but I think I'd have to address that one too.

So, does that switch box on the side have ON/OFF and FORWARD/REVERSE switches?

The box on the side is on/off for the motor and on/off for a light. There is a 40w light bulb that I suppose is aftermarket (Havent seen any info about lights on these) hidden up inside the body.

That would be a great idea about forward/reverse for the motor though.

On that topic looks like the motor it came with while period appropriate, was bought either to replace the motor at some point in time or perhaps the DP was sold without a motor (per your research Frank).

 

[FrankLee]

The box on the side is on/off for the motor and on/off for a light. There is a 40w light bulb that I suppose is aftermarket (Havent seen any info about lights on these) hidden up inside the body.

That would be a great idea about forward/reverse for the motor though.

On that topic looks like the motor it came with while period appropriate, was bought either to replace the motor at some point in time or perhaps the DP was sold without a motor (per your research Frank).

A lamp switch would have been my second guess. Lamps attached to dp's usually have their own switch in the bulb socket. Here's a link to some of the more odd-ball electrical stuff I've come across:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5753907

I estimate that about 15% of the machines I've had came with a non-Craftsman motor.

 

[PureLeaf]

A lamp switch would have been my second guess. Lamps attached to dp's usually have their own switch in the bulb socket. Here's a link to some of the more odd-ball electrical stuff I've come across:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5753907

I estimate that about 15% of the machines I've had came with a non-Craftsman motor.

The electrical is definitely dangerous on this one with the long loose wires hanging. I'll probably copy the idea of using a bracket off of where the motor's mount to mount a single gang box. Nothing fancy but it follows the ethics of reversibility in that anything done can ideally be reversed. The wire when in-hand looks to be 18 gauge too so I'll beef that up to a SOOW jacketed 14 gauge.

You can also spot the light bulb just peaking out.

Just a better cleaned up shot of that center hole. It really was done pretty well other than being slightly off center which is why I was confused to it being possibly factory done.

 

[T.K.B.]

I would eliminate the cobbled switch and use an inline foot switch.

 

[FrankLee]

....

Just a better cleaned up shot of that center hole. It really was done pretty well other than being slightly off center which is why I was confused to it being possibly factory done.
....

Yeah.That looks like it was done with a counterbore drill bit.

I would eliminate the cobbled switch and use an inline foot switch.

Ditto.

 

[Indexmill]

Yeah.That looks like it was done with a counterbore drill bit.
Ditto.

Yeah, that hole looks to have been very well done.

I'd fill it and paint over it never to be seen again!

Indexmill.

 

[FrankLee]

I've been trying to clean-up and organize my basement shop. I have a bunch of head frame castings and other parts that were destined for the scrapper. However, before I scrap them, I'd like to offer any of these to GJ members for no charge. The only stipulation is that you pick them up (s.e. Michigan). I do not want to ship any of these.

I also have a couple 8" table saw cabinets; one has very nice paint.

King-Seeley Craftsman 100, Emerson gen 2




Emerson gen 3

​

Atlas - IIRC, only two are good

​

Walker-Turner 900

​

6/11/2020

Everything above is scrapped except the W-T head frame casting. It's still available if someone wants it.

 

[JZiggy]

FrankLee and fellas,

My own Craftsman 1951 drill press serves me well on a near daily basis and I haven't had occasion to tinker with it much lately beyond keeping it greased up. However, a dear friend of mine just acquired his very first Craftsman 150 which is complete but will require some help to restore. It was a "user" for sure including belts wired nose-to-nose to get the proper length and a nifty center pulley literally made out of an alternator.

The main issue we need to correct is a busted hub. The handles (full diameter size unlike the early 100 ones) are OK. FrankLee, do you have one to sell or can you suggest an alternative?

I also plan to direct him to your quill bumper o-ring listing as a first step. We'll also assess if bearings are needed. Thanks!!

 

[FrankLee]

FrankLee and fellas,

My own Craftsman 1951 drill press serves me well on a near daily basis and I haven't had occasion to tinker with it much lately beyond keeping it greased up. However, a dear friend of mine just acquired his very first Craftsman 150 which is complete but will require some help to restore. It was a "user" for sure including belts wired nose-to-nose to get the proper length and a nifty center pulley literally made out of an alternator.

The main issue we need to correct is a busted hub. The handles (full diameter size unlike the early 100 ones) are OK. FrankLee, do you have one to sell or can you suggest an alternative?

I also plan to direct him to your quill bumper o-ring listing as a first step. We'll also assess if bearings are needed. Thanks!!

I have a couple options....

I think I have a couple hubs, but they ain’t purdy. They also may be early versions. I’ll have to check in the morning.

I also have a pinion shaft from a 12-1/4” and maybe 13-1/2” machines. These use a rod instead of a three handle hub, but they will fit in a 150.

 

[sheltonfilms]

I have a couple options....

I think I have a couple hubs, but they ain’t purdy. They also may be early versions. I’ll have to check in the morning.

I also have a pinion shaft from a 12-1/4” and maybe 13-1/2” machines. These use a rod instead of a three handle hub, but they will fit in a 150.

Here is what FrankLee's suggestion looks like on a 100:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=7529035&postcount=2139

 

[lafester]

Those look like good yard art to me.

A quick FB post usually cleans up all my leftovers within an hour.

I've been trying to clean-up and organize my basement shop. I have a bunch of head frame castings...

 

[FrankLee]

FrankLee and fellas,

My own Craftsman 1951 drill press serves me well on a near daily basis and I haven't had occasion to tinker with it much lately beyond keeping it greased up. However, a dear friend of mine just acquired his very first Craftsman 150 which is complete but will require some help to restore. It was a "user" for sure including belts wired nose-to-nose to get the proper length and a nifty center pulley literally made out of an alternator.

The main issue we need to correct is a busted hub. The handles (full diameter size unlike the early 100 ones) are OK. FrankLee, do you have one to sell or can you suggest an alternative?

I also plan to direct him to your quill bumper o-ring listing as a first step. We'll also assess if bearings are needed. Thanks!!

I have a couple options....

I think I have a couple hubs, but they ain’t purdy. They also may be early versions. I’ll have to check in the morning.

I also have a pinion shaft from a 12-1/4” and maybe 13-1/2” machines. These use a rod instead of a three handle hub, but they will fit in a 150.

It looks like I have a couple more than I thought. Only one has the 1/2-13 internal threads and it's in fairly decent condition. It's the one standing.

Before spending any more cash, get the machine apart and verify all other parts are good; spring, pulley, spindle, etc. Send me a pm when you're ready.

 

[fisher_man_matt]

It's been a couple months since I picked up my old drill press. I haven't used it a lot but when I have its been a pleasure to use. I picked up a couple vises to go with the machine after seeing other examples in this thread.

Thanks again yo FrankLee for all your work documenting these old machines!

 

[FrankLee]

It's been a couple months since I picked up my old drill press. I haven't used it a lot but when I have its been a pleasure to use. I picked up a couple vises to go with the machine after seeing other examples in this thread.

Thanks again yo FrankLee for all your work documenting these old machines!

Nice vises! Thanks for posting!

 

[JZiggy]

It looks like I have a couple more than I thought.

Thank you! Will do!

 

[sheltonfilms]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Saw this online and had to share.

Interesting idea of moving the head and the column to adjust for height.

Swapping out the scissor jack for something like a barber chair would be an interesting setup. (Foot pedal it up, hold down to lower)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Outlawmws]

Just put an impact on the jack...

 

[lafester]

I know it's a bit late but here are some pics of the Walker Turner.
It lasted one day on CL.

Also one pic of the Atlas stand that was with that nasty yellow Craftsman.
Painted it dark grey and it matched nicely with a Dayton VS I posted in another thread. This lasted about 1 day on CL as well.

Oh the Craftsman/Atlas parts are doing well. Already in the green and was able to help out a member here in the process. I tried to get the yellow paint off the badge but it completely ruined the perfect paint underneath. It does look pretty cool as shiny bare metal.

Now if only I had more to work on... Might have a lead on a Baldor but it's another long drive.

 

[FrankLee]

DP#83, Craftsman bushing driver set

I know it's a bit late but here are some pics of the Walker Turner.
It lasted one day on CL.

Also one pic of the Atlas stand that was with that nasty yellow Craftsman.
Painted it dark grey and it matched nicely with a Dayton VS I posted in another thread. This lasted about 1 day on CL as well.

Oh the Craftsman/Atlas parts are doing well. Already in the green and was able to help out a member here in the process. I tried to get the yellow paint off the badge but it completely ruined the perfect paint underneath. It does look pretty cool as shiny bare metal.

Now if only I had more to work on... Might have a lead on a Baldor but it's another long drive.

It's never too late! Nice job on the flips.

I've noticed a slow-down in my parts sales, but then I don't have a good inventory.

"Now if only I had more to work on..." Story of my life lately. My last dp purchase was in early March. I was jonesing for something and even had to go look at that dELTa drill press. He wanted $800-something! There were several rusty vises (one a Float-Lock) and other machinist stuff, but um, no.

There is an ultra-rare ELT drill press on Detroit craigslist.
https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/hvo/d/oakland-75-year-old-elt-220-drill-press/7131674457.html

6/10/2020

I picked up dp#83 this morning. It's a 3rd-gen Emerson model 113.24590. It has too many missing and fubar parts for a refurb, so this'll be a part-out.

6/11/2020

I brought this bushing driver set home today from a garage sale. It's dirty, but complete. I found the set listed in several catalogs from '49 to '57, but there was no mention of a box.

I could have used it yesterday. Instead, I fumbled with a couple sockets and a c-clamp which was a pita.

​

6/12/2020

All clean. I can't say enough about how great Grez-Off works! I didn't scrub on the decal, but the Grez-Off did no harm. I also sanded off the mushrooming on the handles.

​

 

[RHJO51]

Hello folks, not Craftsman but thought you might appreciate. I purchased this Atlas model 64 DP off FBMP yesterday from a very nice old gentleman. It's not missing a part and is in really great shape under the grease and grime. Table has one small mark and came with the hi-lo middle pulley. Original Atlas 1/2 hp motor, runs quiet and smooth. I never had a third pulley set up, my other Craftsman DPs have vari-slows. Does anyone have a link to info on belt positions/speeds for the hi-lo? Thank you

 

[RHJO51]

Of course I just found the hi-lo info. Thanks

 

[FrankLee]

Hello folks, not Craftsman but thought you might appreciate. I purchased this Atlas model 64 DP off FBMP yesterday from a very nice old gentleman. It's not missing a part and is in really great shape under the grease and grime. Table has one small mark and came with the hi-lo middle pulley. Original Atlas 1/2 hp motor, runs quiet and smooth. I never had a third pulley set up, my other Craftsman DPs have vari-slows. Does anyone have a link to info on belt positions/speeds for the hi-lo? Thank you

Of course I just found the hi-lo info. Thanks

Very nice machine!

The grease and grime is a blessing. It may be more work to clean up, but it often preserves the original paint. It looks like the perfect candidate for some Grez-Off.

 

[Outlawmws]

Very nice machine!

The grease and grime is a blessing. It may be more work to clean up, but it often preserves the original paint. It looks like the perfect candidate for some Grez-Off.

 

[FrankLee]

That stuff is awesome! I used Grez-Off this morning on a very dirty old small Craftsman box. Scroll up to post #3546 to see the results. I just wish I had taken more before photos.

 

[RHJO51]

Grez-off it is. The original paint looks great underneath. I was going to sell this one but it’s pretty darn sweet, hard to let it go. We’ll see.

 

[Outlawmws]

That would be a keeper for me, and I have seven, (of which I need to refurb three and sell...)

 

[lafester]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Yeah that is pretty nice and complete.
Those motors just don't come along very often.

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[Two Bit Woodworker]

Hey I just joined because of this thread, it's a great resource.

I picked up a Craftsman 100 yesterday, it looks to be a '53 model (103.23131) in pretty good condition. I got most of the table rust off of it with a Scotch-Brite pad and some WD40. I did have some questions though and was wondering if people could help me out.

I replaced the cord with a newer grounded cord. What do people tie the ground wire into? Inside the motor there's a black metal plate holding down a cardboard wrapper dohicky, I used one of the screws holding down that plate as a mounting point for my ground wire.

My Feed Return Spring Adjustment Knob seems to be frozen. I haven't cranked on it for fear of breaking it. Any tips on loosening it up? The lock screw for it is completely out, but the knob itself hasn't budged under hand pressure.

I took the motor mount plate off for cleaning. It's back on there and both the motor and spindle shaft look plumb to the eye (is that good enough?). However, the motor pulley seems to be about a 1/4" lower than the spindle pulley (so my belt slopes down a bit, front to back). Any tips on getting them co-planar? The mounting plate is high as it will go via the bolt slots, so I guess I'm looking at raising the motor pulley itself?

Any recommendation on a link belt for this?

That's all I can think of for now, I'm sure I'll run into more later when I take apart the spindle for cleaning. I've only done the body stuff up until this point.

 

[FrankLee]

Welcome! We're glad you're here. My comments are interspersed below. Please post pictures when you're able.

Hey I just joined because of this thread, it's a great resource.

Thanks for your comments. I'm hoping your drill press and experiences can add to the database of information.

I picked up a Craftsman 100 yesterday, it looks to be a '53 model (103.23131) in pretty good condition. I got most of the table rust off of it with a Scotch-Brite pad and some WD40.
I usually use a finishing sander. It removes the rust quickly and leaves the factory milling marks. I feel it does no harm.

I did have some questions though and was wondering if people could help me out.

I replaced the cord with a newer grounded cord. What do people tie the ground wire into? Inside the motor there's a black metal plate holding down a cardboard wrapper dohicky, I used one of the screws holding down that plate as a mounting point for my ground wire.
I've used the plate screws in the past, but prefer to drill and tap the base for a ground screw. I don't think I ever posted a photo, so I'll have to work on that.

My Feed Return Spring Adjustment Knob seems to be frozen. I haven't cranked on it for fear of breaking it. Any tips on loosening it up? The lock screw for it is completely out, but the knob itself hasn't budged under hand pressure.
A penetrant may free up the tension knob. With the head frame upside down, spray into the lock screw hole and let it sit for a while. It may just free-up on its own, but a rubber strap wrench may assist the penetrant. It should be ok to crank on it with a rubber strap.

Worst case, you may need to remove the hub/pinion/spring assembly first. The issue doing that is that the spring is still under tension. You'll need to pry the tang of the spring from the prongs of the tension knob; not ideal, but it may be necessary. Then, knock out the tension knob from the hub side with a deep socket or short piece of pvc pipe or similar that is hollow to prevent breaking off the prongs.

I took the motor mount plate off for cleaning. It's back on there and both the motor and spindle shaft look plumb to the eye (is that good enough?).
Yes, that should always be the case with the rigid motor mount. Pivoting motor mounts on later models require more adjustment.

However, the motor pulley seems to be about a 1/4" lower than the spindle pulley (so my belt slopes down a bit, front to back). Any tips on getting them co-planar? The mounting plate is high as it will go via the bolt slots, so I guess I'm looking at raising the motor pulley itself?
You may be able to simply raise the pulley on the motor shaft. Or raise the motor on the mount. If you cannot adjust the motor high enough on the mount to make the belt square to the spindle and motor shaft, try flipping the mount over and remount the motor.

Any recommendation on a link belt for this?
Many guys swear by link belts. I prefer AX cogged belts.

That's all I can think of for now, I'm sure I'll run into more later when I take apart the spindle for cleaning. I've only done the body stuff up until this point.

 

[Jim C.]

Hey Frank,

This is a great thread! I’ve been looking for an old Cman drill press like this for a long time. Well, last weekend I finally got one, FOR FREE! The only photo I had to go on was the first one shown below. I had no further information other than it was a floor standing model. The price was right so I jumped on it. Based on my assessment, it looks like all the main castings have an “I” or “J” date codes, making me think September (“I”) or October (“J”), and the motor info plate is stamped “J3 48”. My guess is that the drill press is a late 1948 to early 1949 example. Model #103.23140.

While it appears to be about 97% complete and original, it does have a few issues. First off, it’s missing the thrust nut just above the chuck. Second, I have tried everything to remove the chuck from the spindle, including a 3 jaw puller, but it won’t budge. The chuck is a Jacob 6A 33 taper, 0 - 1/2. Any suggestions are welcome.

This next one was a heart breaker.....Within thirty seconds of seeing the DP for the first time, I noticed a significant crack in the tilt table flange. The table still firmly attaches to the associated bracket, but I don’t completely trust the table to hold up to any hard use. Notice it’s also cracked, but intact, at the bottom of the flange. Can this be fixed? Is it worth fixing? Am I better off just looking for replacement table?

Jim C.

 

[FrankLee]

Hey Frank,

This is a great thread! I’ve been looking for an old Cman drill press like this for a long time. Well, last weekend I finally got one, FOR FREE! The only photo I had to go on was the first one shown below. I had no further information other than it was a floor standing model. The price was right so I jumped on it. Based on my assessment, it looks like all the main castings have an “I” or “J” date codes, making me think September (“I”) or October (“J”), and the motor info plate is stamped “J3 48”. My guess is that the drill press is a late 1948 to early 1949 example. Model #103.23140.

While it appears to be about 97% complete and original, it does have a few issues. First off, it’s missing the thrust nut just above the chuck. Second, I have tried everything to remove the chuck from the spindle, including a 3 jaw puller, but it won’t budge. The chuck is a Jacob 6A 33 taper, 0 - 1/2. Any suggestions are welcome.

This next one was a heart breaker.....Within thirty seconds of seeing the DP for the first time, I noticed a significant crack in the tilt table flange. The table still firmly attaches to the associated bracket, but I don’t completely trust the table to hold up to any hard use. Notice it’s also cracked, but intact, at the bottom of the flange. Can this be fixed? Is it worth fixing? Am I better off just looking for replacement table?

Jim C.

Congrats, Jim! You did much better on yours than I did on dp#84 today.

I concur with your date assessment; especially if you have machine screws securing the head frame panel.

I believe that would have been the original chuck. Perhaps there is a retaining compound that is holding the chuck onto the taper. How did you have your puller set-up? I can't picture how that would work. You may need a wedge set to pop it off. Jacobs 13267 Wedge Set Used On Jacobs Taper No. #2JT

That broken table is a real bummer. I think what I would do is drill and tap a hole on the underside near the protractor through the good sleeve cylinder into the table support and use it. The table and support need to be square to ensure the spindle is perpendicular to the table.

I've never swapped a table support with another table. I gotta believe that the taper bore and ream is unique to each table/support pair.

 

[whateg01]

Would require some work afterward, but the table could be brazed back together and then filed and ground to get it to look pretty close to unaltered. Again, not the easiest thing to do, but lacking a replacement, it would do.

 

[FrankLee]

Dp#84

So, here's dp#84. It's a late King-Seeley Craftsman 150, model 103.24511.

It's in fairly good shape but looks like something corrosive spilled or sprayed onto the table, chuck and column. Heavy rust is localized to these few areas .

​

I also got a Craftsman dp vise, partial drill bit set, a 10", 30 tooth carbide blade, some Diablo recip blades and an old Indestro socket set.

​

6/18/2020

This morning I dismantled the head frame. Everything is in good shape so far.




6/25/2020

Dp#84 refurb is complete.