Craftsman Drill Press

[whateg01]

...
I've never swapped a table support with another table. I gotta believe that the taper bore and ream is unique to each table/support pair.

Is that the hole going downward through the opening? So, meant for a tapered pin to hold it horizontal? I don't think the table on my 100 rotates, so I'm not familiar with it. It's work, but the holes could be completely brazed closed then a new tapered hole drilled and reamed. Is the bore the same on all? Can't believe that dimension would change from machine to machine.

Dave

 

[FrankLee]

Is that the hole going downward through the opening? So, meant for a tapered pin to hold it horizontal? I don't think the table on my 100 rotates, so I'm not familiar with it. It's work, but the holes could be completely brazed closed then a new tapered hole drilled and reamed. Is the bore the same on all? Can't believe that dimension would change from machine to machine.

Dave

Yes, that's the taper hole to index the table perpendicular to the spindle.
My assumption is based on the hole through the hub and pinion shaft. Those are never the same between machines.

 

[Jim C.]

Hey Frank,

Thanks for your response. That chuck must have come off at some point because the thrust collar nut is missing. (You wouldn’t happen to have an extra one laying around would you?) I’ll try the wedge set. I hope it works. I’ll keep you posted.

Jim C.

 

[FrankLee]

Hey Frank,

Thanks for your response. That chuck must have come off at some point because the thrust collar nut is missing. (You wouldn’t happen to have an extra one laying around would you?) I’ll try the wedge set. I hope it works. I’ll keep you posted.

Jim C.

Yes, I believe I do. I think I also have a safety collar chuck, if you want to go that way.

 

[Jim C.]

Frank, PM sent. Thanks!

 

[gatewaysysop]

That broken table is a real bummer. I think what I would do is drill and tap a hole on the underside near the protractor through the good sleeve cylinder into the table support and use it. The table and support need to be square to ensure the spindle is perpendicular to the table.

I've never swapped a table support with another table. I gotta believe that the taper bore and ream is unique to each table/support pair.

I might have just been lucky, but I've done the swap before without issue. Admittedly it was a pretty close match so I doubt the vintages were off by much if at all on the donor and the recipient, so YMMV of course.

Some pics can be found in the two posts starting here.

 

[FrankLee]

I might have just been lucky, but I've done the swap before without issue. Admittedly it was a pretty close match so I doubt the vintages were off by much if at all on the donor and the recipient, so YMMV of course.

Some pics can be found in the two posts starting here.

Thanks for posting some first-hand experience! That's encouraging.

I have not seen much discussion of measuring spindle-to-table squareness. I only have one tilting table at the moment, but when I get another, I'll check this out in more detail.

 

[FrankLee]

....

This next one was a heart breaker.....Within thirty seconds of seeing the DP for the first time, I noticed a significant crack in the tilt table flange. The table still firmly attaches to the associated bracket, but I don’t completely trust the table to hold up to any hard use. Notice it’s also cracked, but intact, at the bottom of the flange. Can this be fixed? Is it worth fixing? Am I better off just looking for replacement table?

Jim C.

So, looking at that break again.... Do you see any other evidence of the drill press falling over?

It kinda looks like a previous owner attempted to remove the pin, didn't realize it was tapered and drove it down instead of up. There doesn't appear to be any impact marks on the taper bore boss though. Do you have the taper pin? Any mushrooming on the top?

 

[PeterPeter]

Just thought I’d toss this oldie into the mix.

You may not recognize this poor thing, because of it’s flat-top haircut. But if you’d seen it in its younger days, You’d see that it used to have a Mohawk.

Yes, this is a C’man rarity: 103.0304 drill press.

Got it a month or two ago, with the idea that I would make it whole again. Not only missing is its signature pulley/belt cover, but also gone/broken is its pinion shaft, gear, and levers, return spring assembly, depth stop assembly and the chuck. The PO even drilled a 3/4” hole in the head casting to place an Atlas switch.. Easy peasy I thought. I had two 103.0305’s in various states of disrepair out in the shed, why not whip them all together and recreate this Craftsman Unicorn.

Well, let me tell you why I couldn’t: the 103.0304 is not a 103.0305 that drank its milk and grew real tall. It is, I believe, a 103.0303 on a different base/post. I’ve done quite a bite of comparison between the .0303/.0305 on VM/OWWM and while they look quite similar, and share many parts, many significant changes were made between the two. And the head of this machine is most definitely not a .0305

That said, I’d like to throw this out there. I would like to see this machine restored. I could wait until the CList gods throw a 103.0303 my way, but I haven’t the room. Anyone in the NE area interested in a new restoration project? Or is there anyone just interested in seeing more pics? I still haven’t figured out how to post multiple pics, so I can email them... Peter

 

[FrankLee]

Just thought I’d toss this oldie into the mix.

You may not recognize this poor thing, because of it’s flat-top haircut. But if you’d seen it in its younger days, You’d see that it used to have a Mohawk.

Yes, this is a C’man rarity: 103.0304 drill press.

Got it a month or two ago, with the idea that I would make it whole again. Not only missing is its signature pulley/belt cover, but also gone/broken is its pinion shaft, gear, and levers, return spring assembly, depth stop assembly and the chuck. The PO even drilled a 3/4” hole in the head casting to place an Atlas switch.. Easy peasy I thought. I had two 103.0305’s in various states of disrepair out in the shed, why not whip them all together and recreate this Craftsman Unicorn.

Well, let me tell you why I couldn’t: the 103.0304 is not a 103.0305 that drank its milk and grew real tall. It is, I believe, a 103.0303 on a different base/post. I’ve done quite a bite of comparison between the .0303/.0305 on VM/OWWM and while they look quite similar, and share many parts, many significant changes were made between the two. And the head of this machine is most definitely not a .0305

That said, I’d like to throw this out there. I would like to see this machine restored. I could wait until the CList gods throw a 103.0303 my way, but I haven’t the room. Anyone in the NE area interested in a new restoration project? Or is there anyone just interested in seeing more pics? I still haven’t figured out how to post multiple pics, so I can email them... Peter

Yes, more pictures of the 0303 vs the 0305 pointing out the differences would be beneficial. I've had just one mohawk, dp#62, and really didn't document the refurb.

 

[FrankLee]

Rust Removal

There have been quite a few threads and posts dealing with rust removal. Electrolysis, Evaporust, vinegar, molasses and citric acid are all common rust removal products and techniques.

 

[lafester]

Something is wrong with dp83. I don't see a vise, cross slide, awesome articulating lamp, ultra rare table lift, or anything interesting attached to it.

 

[FrankLee]

Something is wrong with dp83. I don't see a vise, cross slide, awesome articulating lamp, ultra rare table lift, or anything interesting attached to it.

I know. I was jonesing for a machine to work on and the price was right. Too many parts were missing or fup'd for a refurb. The part-out is going well.

Dp#84 is a standard machine too, but that will be a refurb. That one came with some very nice extras.

 

[cclfn]

Re: Rust Removal

There have been quite a few threads and posts dealing with rust removal. Electrolysis, Evaporust, vinegar, molasses and citric acid are all common rust removal products and techniques.

This column is one of the rustiest I've had and was a ***** to remove from the base.

Here is the column after ~20 hours of soaking in citric acid, a quick rub down with steel wool, a rinse and a dry. I did sand about 10" on each end, but the middle portion is all CA.

Frank how about a picture or description of your holding tank for the column soaks. Wood frame and plastic liner or permanent tank. I have never tried the citric acid on a column and was wondering about the logistics.
Wes

 

[Jim C.]

So, looking at that break again.... Do you see any other evidence of the drill press falling over?

It kinda looks like a previous owner attempted to remove the pin, didn't realize it was tapered and drove it down instead of up. There doesn't appear to be any impact marks on the taper bore boss though. Do you have the taper pin? Any mushrooming on the top?

Hey Frank,

I’ve attached a few pictures of the taper pin that came installed on the drill press. There’s absolutely no other damage to any of the other parts except the table flange. The taper pin does not appear to be mushroomed from being hammered, etc. My guess is that the table was removed from the post and at some point got dropped. Maybe it happened during re-installation, however, there’s no damage to the base. I don’t know what happened. I’m just bummed that it did happen.

Jim C.

 

[FrankLee]

Hey Frank,

I’ve attached a few pictures of the taper pin that came installed on the drill press. There’s absolutely no other damage to any of the other parts except the table flange. The taper pin does not appear to be mushroomed from being hammered, etc. My guess is that the table was removed from the post and at some point got dropped. Maybe it happened during re-installation, however, there’s no damage to the base. I don’t know what happened. I’m just bummed that it did happen.

Jim C.

Hmmm. I guess how that broke will remain a mystery.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: Rust Removal

Frank how about a picture or description of your holding tank for the column soaks. Wood frame and plastic liner or permanent tank. I have never tried the citric acid on a column and was wondering about the logistics.
Wes

In the CUSTOM TOOLS section in the TOC in the first post of this thread, there is a link called PVC Soaking Chamber for Columns.

When I first started using this, vinegar was my choice for de-rusting. In a few posts down from there, member Rushton suggested citric acid. I've been using it since.

There is more discussion of using pvc starting here:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8322060

 

[FrankLee]

Below is the vise I got with dp#84. It had some rust, so I dismantled it and soaked it in citric acid for about 2-1/2 hours. I wanted to see if ca had any effect on the original paint.

As you can see, the original paint was unharmed, and to my surprise, some of the water-slide decal remained.

​

The vise is back together for the most part, but it does have one broken bracket. These brackets are aluminum. Earlier versions of the angle vise had steel brackets. I replaced the original phillips screws with hex socket caps screws.

​

 

[FrankLee]

....

I replaced the cord with a newer grounded cord. What do people tie the ground wire into? Inside the motor there's a black metal plate holding down a cardboard wrapper dohicky, I used one of the screws holding down that plate as a mounting point for my ground wire.
I've used the plate screws in the past, but prefer to drill and tap the base for a ground screw. I don't think I ever posted a photo, so I'll have to work on that.
....

I finally got around to updating my motor cord post with pictures.

 

[Cruzan80]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Peter, I have no idea what shipping would run, but I have an 0303 that is complete and would be a great match on top of that. Getting an 0304 in my shop would be amazing. Out in CO.

Sent from my Phone 2 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[gatewaysysop]

Hey Frank,

I’ve attached a few pictures of the taper pin that came installed on the drill press. There’s absolutely no other damage to any of the other parts except the table flange. The taper pin does not appear to be mushroomed from being hammered, etc. My guess is that the table was removed from the post and at some point got dropped. Maybe it happened during re-installation, however, there’s no damage to the base. I don’t know what happened. I’m just bummed that it did happen.

Jim C.

My old man has a non-tilt table from one of his recent part outs, but he doesn't have any tilt tables at the moment. PM me if you're interested.

 

[Jim C.]

Thanks for the offer. I already tracked down another table.

Jim C.

 

[Jim C.]

Earlier in the thread I noticed there was a photo of a drill press that was still attached to its original shipping pallet. When I got my drill press, it was bolted to a pallet. I didn’t give it much thought and figured it was something added by a previous owner. But now that I look at it in comparison to the example depicted earlier in the thread, I think that my pallet may be original too. I was initially thinking of getting rid of it. Since it’s original, I might just keep using it.

Jim C.

 

[Cruzan80]

Ah, so that is the reason the columns are always a bit lower than the base! They came on pallets!!!

Just kidding, but it seems like most of them I find don't sit level, and it is almost always due to the column sticking out below slightly.

 

[whateg01]

The base on my 100 has a shoulder so the column can't drop out the bottom.

Dave

 

[FrankLee]

Earlier in the thread I noticed there was a photo of a drill press that was still attached to its original shipping pallet. When I got my drill press, it was bolted to a pallet. I didn’t give it much thought and figured it was something added by a previous owner. But now that I look at it in comparison to the example depicted earlier in the thread, I think that my pallet may be original too. I was initially thinking of getting rid of it. Since it’s original, I might just keep using it.

Jim C.

I've got two of those BGT crates/pallets and have never seen another. Both of mine have the longer bolts for the later bases. Yours is the earlier base... interesting! Thanks for posting!

​

 

[FrankLee]

The base on my 100 has a shoulder so the column can't drop out the bottom.

Dave

Shoulder? Pictures please.

 

[Jim C.]

This is the hardware that connected the pallet to the drill press base.

Jim C.

 

[GreyEyes]

Shoulder? Pictures please.

Yes, please. I have never seen a base with a shoulder. I wonder if it was an owner modification?

 

[whateg01]

Mine is currently in storage while I work on making the new spindle. When I get it out of storage (it's behind an optical comparator and surface grinder so it's hard to get to) I'll get a picture of it. I could be mistaken and maybe it just stopped moving, but I'm pretty sure I just drove it in until it hit the shoulder.

Dave

 

[PeterPeter]

Yes, more pictures of the 0303 vs the 0305 pointing out the differences would be beneficial. I've had just one mohawk, dp#62, and really didn't document the refurb.

Just to re-cover a little ground, here. There were three types of the Craftsman “Rocketman” or “Mohawk” , drill press produced for Sears by Central Specialty Co. (later Known as King-Seeley ). It appears in the 1941/42 edition of the Sears tool supplement catalog. There was the 103.0303, 103.0304, and 103.0305. The catalogs do not include this model number, so we are left to assume the model in the 41/42 catalog is the 103.0303.

The 103.0303 is a bench top machine, built like a brick outhouse, with a 3” throw, and a 13.25” drilling circle. It came equipped with/without a Dunlap/Craftsman 1/2hp motor, an innovative quick release belt tensioner, and a tilt table. That is where the known history, stops. WWII broke out, and Sears only produced its Christmas ‘Wish Book’ Until 1944/45, when a new tool catalog was published, without a Rocketman listed.

I think I can say with some certainty, the 103.0304 is the floor model version of the .0303. It is hard to say, because it never appeared in a catalog, and for all the research I have done (many hours) there are only two 103.0304’s on the web: and I own one of them. I‘ve come to this conclusion by comparing pics and casting # with 103.0303’s, 0305’s and with pics of the other known .0304.

As I surmised, the 103.0305 is a later version of the .0303, and in many was identical to it. As you know, it too is a bench top. There are several improvements to this design, as these pictures show. From top left:

Pic 1 The rear of the 0303/4 Head Casting. Note the thin cast iron rings that attach the head to the post. They stick out from the main body.. I have seen these with repairs. They look weak.

Pic 2 The .0305 head casting is much beefier. The back of the casting is flat.

Pic 3 .0305 head casting #

Pic 4 .0303/4 head casting #

Pic 5 .0303/4 table support: note the screw and metal tab used to hold the chuck key.

Pic 6 .0305 Table support: note that casting has a little ear to hold the key. Even though there is this difference, these two parts have the same casting #s. I have also seen this support on one example of a .0303/4, though chalked it up to a repair, but maybe these supports came in to the assembly plant before the change over to 103.0305 was completed .

The other major change I found with the .0305, is the pinion shaft/gear. The .0303/4 has a much thinner shaft, with a much smaller gear built on it. The pinion gear is shattered and repaired on my .0304

And a question I still have; did they ever make a floor model with the 103.0305? Perhaps there is a 103.0306 hanging around out there... (insert picture of Indy Jones warehouse at end of movie)

Peter

 

[FrankLee]

Just to re-cover a little ground, here. There were three types of the Craftsman “Rocketman” or “Mohawk” , drill press produced for Sears by Central Specialty Co. (later Known as King-Seeley ). It appears in the 1941/42 edition of the Sears tool supplement catalog. There was the 103.0303, 103.0304, and 103.0305. The catalogs do not include this model number, so we are left to assume the model in the 41/42 catalog is the 103.0303.

The 103.0303 is a bench top machine, built like a brick outhouse, with a 3” throw, and a 13.25” drilling circle. It came equipped with/without a Dunlap/Craftsman 1/2hp motor, an innovative quick release belt tensioner, and a tilt table. That is where the known history, stops. WWII broke out, and Sears only produced its Christmas ‘Wish Book’ Until 1944/45, when a new tool catalog was published, without a Rocketman listed.

I think I can say with some certainty, the 103.0304 is the floor model version of the .0303. It is hard to say, because it never appeared in a catalog, and for all the research I have done (many hours) there are only two 103.0304’s on the web: and I own one of them. I‘ve come to this conclusion by comparing pics and casting # with 103.0303’s, 0305’s and with pics of the other known .0304.

As I surmised, the 103.0305 is a later version of the .0303, and in many was identical to it. As you know, it too is a bench top. There are several improvements to this design, as these pictures show. From top left:

Pic 1 The rear of the 0303/4 Head Casting. Note the thin cast iron rings that attach the head to the post. They stick out from the main body.. I have seen these with repairs. They look weak.

Pic 2 The .0305 head casting is much beefier. The back of the casting is flat.

Pic 3 .0305 head casting #

Pic 4 .0303/4 head casting #

Pic 5 .0303/4 table support: note the screw and metal tab used to hold the chuck key.

Pic 6 .0305 Table support: note that casting has a little ear to hold the key. Even though there is this difference, these two parts have the same casting #s. I have also seen this support on one example of a .0303/4, though chalked it up to a repair, but maybe these supports came in to the assembly plant before the change over to 103.0305 was completed .

The other major change I found with the .0305, is the pinion shaft/gear. The .0303/4 has a much thinner shaft, with a much smaller gear built on it. The pinion gear is shattered and repaired on my .0304

And a question I still have; did they ever make a floor model with the 103.0305? Perhaps there is a 103.0306 hanging around out there... (insert picture of Indy Jones warehouse at end of movie)

Peter

Excellent write-up, Peter!

I had no idea those models were so different. Thanks for your research and contribution!

 

[ururk]

Someone is selling some tools, and an older Dunlap drill press is one of them. I'd like to buy it, but don't know what to offer. Would it be worth buying for weekly/occasional use? I have a floor-standing Craftsman that this would complement. I've attached the only photo I have.

The rest of the tools are not terribly exciting, or worth mentioning.

 

[lafester]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Seems to have some interesting features.
I would do $100 max for that one.

I believe that is a fairly light duty machine if that matters.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

[ttpete]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Seems to have some interesting features.
I would do $100 max for that one.

I believe that is a fairly light duty machine if that matters.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Looks like it has a keyless chuck.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Someone is selling some tools, and an older Dunlap drill press is one of them. I'd like to buy it, but don't know what to offer. Would it be worth buying for weekly/occasional use? I have a floor-standing Craftsman that this would complement. I've attached the only photo I have.

The rest of the tools are not terribly exciting, or worth mentioning.

Seems to have some interesting features.
I would do $100 max for that one.

I believe that is a fairly light duty machine if that matters.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I think $100 is rather high for this area. That is likely a sleeve bearing model with a keyless chuck. There is an incomplete and inexpensive drill index hiding in the back.
The curved piece on the table looks like a guard for a grinding wheel. The table looks good. If that's the original paint, it looks very good.

 

[ururk]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I think $100 is rather high for this area. That is likely a sleeve bearing model with a keyless chuck. There is an incomplete and inexpensive drill index hiding in the back.
The curved piece on the table looks like a guard for a grinding wheel. The table looks good. If that's the original paint, it looks very good.

I thought that cover was for a grinding wheel, couldn't quite place it from the photo.

I was thinking between $30 and $50 depending on if it runs. It's missing the chrome cover for the quill, and I noticed the quill isn't all the way up - I think there's a spring return in the knob on the left. I'll be able to see it in person later this week or early next. Not sure how I feel about the keyless chuck - could be hiding other less savory mods.

And yes - I'm not looking for a heavy-duty benchtop, just a smaller machine I can use instead of the floor-standing one.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I thought that cover was for a grinding wheel, couldn't quite place it from the photo.

I was thinking between $30 and $50 depending on if it runs. It's missing the chrome cover for the quill, and I noticed the quill isn't all the way up - I think there's a spring return in the knob on the left. I'll be able to see it in person later this week or early next. Not sure how I feel about the keyless chuck - could be hiding other less savory mods.

And yes - I'm not looking for a heavy-duty benchtop, just a smaller machine I can use instead of the floor-standing one.

I had to download the photo and adjust brightness to see some of the details.

Yeah, $50 would be a good max price.

The chrome spire may be missing, but some of the smaller machines did not come equipped. Yes, that spring is definitely something to check out. The keyless chuck is probably original, but threaded keyed chucks are available.

The later Dunlaps in the classic style can be decent machines. I used my dad's for 20+ years before I bought dp#1. I was tempted to go look at this one https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/266864291116464/ but it looks like it was heavily used.

 

[Froomja]

Recently purchased a 103.21300 for a decent price, and this thread was a HUGE help in my decision making process, legitimately studied all your links for about 6 hours the night before I went to check out the unit. Externally, it is in great shape, minimal surface rust, no cracks, and not a an ungodly amount of grime. It started up and ran with minimal noise, and only a small bit of run-out; which I figured was caused by the comically small belt the previous owner had thrown on it. However it seems to have done a number on the pulley shaft. It is very badly galled, to the point I had to pop it out of the bushing with a dowel and a mallet (fortunately it does not look like it damaged the brass bushing). Is the spindle shaft salvageable at all, or should it be binned? If it is salvageable is it something that can be done with sanding/filing and elbow grease as I do not have access to a lathe. If it is scrap do you have any recommendations on a replacement?

I also want to thank you for this making and continually updating this massive repository of images and knowledge.

 

[FrankLee]

Firstly, welcome to The Garage Journal and the Craftsman Drill Press thread!

Secondly, I didn't realize you had attached a link to a photo until I started a reply. Imgur photos typically do not show up for others unless you remove the "s" from "https".
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/0vEcbIk.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/0vEcbIk.jpg[/IMG]

Thirdly, my comments are interspersed below.

Recently purchased a 103.21300 for a decent price, and this thread was a HUGE help in my decision making process, legitimately studied all your links for about 6 hours the night before I went to check out the unit. Externally, it is in great shape, minimal surface rust, no cracks, and not a an ungodly amount of grime. It started up and ran with minimal noise, and only a small bit of run-out; which I figured was caused by the comically small belt the previous owner had thrown on it.
Any spinning part can have runout. If you are referring to runout at the bit, the pulley/shaft should have very little effect. The spindle, spindle bushings/bearings or chuck are usually the primary cause.

However it seems to have done a number on the pulley shaft. It is very badly galled, to the point I had to pop it out of the bushing with a dowel and a mallet (fortunately it does not look like it damaged the brass bushing). Is the spindle shaft salvageable at all, or should it be binned?
It looks to me that the shaft is still usable, but then I don't see the entire shaft. That set screw witness mark is very high on the shaft. That tells me the shaft was not fully seated into the pulley.
How loose is it in the pulley?
What are the ID and OD dimensions of the bushing?
What is the OD of the shaft?

If it is salvageable is it something that can be done with sanding/filing and elbow grease as I do not have access to a lathe. If it is scrap do you have any recommendations on a replacement?
I would just smooth the high spots on the portion of the shaft that is inserted into the pulley. I might also file two new flats on the opposite side for the set screws if that portion of the shaft is out-of-round.

I also want to thank you for this making and continually updating this massive repository of images and knowledge.

Lastly, thanks for your comments! This thread is a group effort and your experiences and participation will be helpful to someone else in the future.