Craftsman Drill Press

[Mr. Wonderful]

I think this is the same diameter as my floor model. I think some on here have converted from the bench top style to the floor model? If anyone is looking:

https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tls/d/puyallup-drill-press-column/7222979093.html

 

[paulm12]

FrankLee: interesting on the cracked motor end cap, thanks for sharing.

.

 

[FrankLee]

FrankLee: interesting on the cracked motor end cap, thanks for sharing..

That was definitely an odd problem.

I think this is the same diameter as my floor model. I think some on here have converted from the bench top style to the floor model? If anyone is looking:

https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tls/d/puyallup-drill-press-column/7222979093.html

One needs to be careful when swapping columns. In my experience, no manufacturer's so-called
2-3/4" column is 2.750". King-Seeley and Emerson columns are the smallest I've seen.
Check this post:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6723384

​

 

[gatewaysysop]

I figure the folks in this thread would get a kick out of it, so here's a rarity I stumbled across at an antique mall yesterday, of all places. Who knows what you'll find "in the wild", and apparently hiding in plain sight?

Also had this not-quite-original reducer setup:

All this for the princely sum of $300, according to the tags. I passed, but I'm sure it would make someone rather happy in this mostly original condition. Don't see many of these 13.5" presses, certainly not as a floor model, so I figured it was worth documenting.

 

[FrankLee]

I figure the folks in this thread would get a kick out of it, so here's a rarity I stumbled across at an antique mall yesterday, of all places. Who knows what you'll find "in the wild", and apparently hiding in plain sight?

Also had this not-quite-original reducer setup:

All this for the princely sum of $300, according to the tags. I passed, but I'm sure it would make someone rather happy in this mostly original condition. Don't see many of these 13.5" presses, certainly not as a floor model, so I figured it was worth documenting.

Yeah. There are not many mid-size floor models.

I'm trying to wrap my head around that middle pulley, though. And something is up with that chuck.

Thanks for taking photos and posting.

 

[Sassy1695]

Hello all! New to this forum. Female woodworker here. Just acquired a 15-1/2 craftsman drill press from a local auction. The return spring in handle was mangled and I was able to remove it. To my surprise the part is no longer available and I have searched high and low for this with no success. The model number on my drill is 113.213780 and the part number for spring is 38989. My question is does anyone know where I could probably source one of these? Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[FrankLee]

Hello all! New to this forum. Female woodworker here. Just acquired a 15-1/2 craftsman drill press from a local auction. The return spring in handle was mangled and I was able to remove it. To my surprise the part is no longer available and I have searched high and low for this with no success. The model number on my drill is 113.213780 and the part number for spring is 38989. My question is does anyone know where I could probably source one of these? Thanks in advance for the help.

I just sent you another message via eBay with another option.

 

[pikapp]

Well, we are finally able to use lasers in our humble hobby now!
https://hackaday.com/2016/03/17/laser-removes-rust-like-magic/
Good that they can be used for something really useful instead of life saving surgery, projecting dots on the moon or creating fusion.
Just waiting for my flying car to be delivered.

 

[picarddj]

Great info. Helpful in refurbishing my CL bargain.

 

[Smokeshow69]

Great info. Helpful in refurbishing my CL bargain.

Boy that came out fantastic! Any more pictures?


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[DaveT]

Great info. Helpful in refurbishing my CL bargain.

Beautiful refurb!

 

[FrankLee]

Great info. Helpful in refurbishing my CL bargain.

Boy that came out fantastic! Any more pictures?

Beautiful refurb!

Ditto! Very nice!

 

[FrankLee]

Dp#92

Dp#92 is a 12¼" Dunlap, model 103.23622. It has been very neglected, but is pretty tight for a sleeve bearing machine. A small Dunlap vise with original cast iron V-block was included. I'll clean it up.

It was well worth the $20 and 2 hour round trip.

This drill press is very similar to models 103.23100 and 103.23620.

​

It has a typical handi-box/switch attached to the left side and another goofy lamp set-up.

​

 

[Outlawmws]

So you bought a DP vise, and got a DP for free...

That's Suckage.

 

[vertguy]

I wanted to send a huge thanks to Frank as this DP thread once again helped me out

After cleaning up a recently acquired MSA set-up, I was a bit perplexed when no matter what I tried, I could not get the outside sleeve into the column with the snap rings attached. So I pulled up this DP thread and found there are 2 different column IDs and confirmed the smaller 2-3/8 inch ID on my 150 does not require the snap rings. Problem solved! But I am a couple links short for link belts to work correctly, so I ordered a new set of belts from vbelts4less. I used my cheap RPM gauge and measured ~245, which is 100 less than a fabed MSA I picked from another GJ member (still ~100 over the specs in the MSA manual).

Oh... and your trick with soaking the shaft bearings in ATF worked perfect!

 

[FrankLee]

I wanted to send a huge thanks to Frank as this DP thread once again helped me out

After cleaning up a recently acquired MSA set-up, I was a bit perplexed when no matter what I tried, I could not get the outside sleeve into the column with the snap rings attached. So I pulled up this DP thread and found there are 2 different column IDs and confirmed the smaller 2-3/8 inch ID on my 150 does not require the snap rings. Problem solved! But I am a couple links short for link belts to work correctly, so I ordered a new set of belts from vbelts4less. I used my cheap RPM gauge and measured ~245, which is 100 less than a fabed MSA I picked from another GJ member (still ~100 over the specs in the MSA manual).

Oh... and your trick with soaking the shaft bearings in ATF worked perfect!

I appreciate the feedback! Thanks very much!

 

[oldsfan442]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I hope this is the right place to put this. I found this 150 on OfferUp and had a buddy pay for it and pick it up for me. Only had 2 pics so I really didn't get a good look at it. I just picked it up Friday and finally unloaded it today. It looks like it may not be all original. The base and motor and table lift are a shade of blue and the head is gold. The ID plate has the number 101.03662. I have a few more pics I could share and I can get better pics tomorrow. Any thoughts on what I got? Thanks.

Bryan

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[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I hope this is the right place to put this. I found this 150 on OfferUp and had a buddy pay for it and pick it up for me. Only had 2 pics so I really didn't get a good look at it. I just picked it up Friday and finally unloaded it today. It looks like it may not be all original. The base and motor and table lift are a shade of blue and the head is gold. The ID plate has the number 101.03662. I have a few more pics I could share and I can get better pics tomorrow. Any thoughts on what I got? Thanks.

Bryan

No problem posting here.

You have a hybrid machine. All parts are Craftsman. The head assembly was manufactured by King-Seeley in the late '50s/early '60s. The base, column, table and table lift were manufactured by Atlas pre-war-ish. The motor was manufactured by Packard Electric. There should be a date code on the motor information plate.

The real prize is the table lift. Because of the rough overall condition, don't force the crank on the table lift. Get it apart, inspected and cleaned. There are a handful of links in the first post of this thread regarding the table lift.

Thanks for posting. Yes, more pictures please.

 

[oldsfan442]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Thanks so much for the info. The motor has a Craftsman tag in it and looks like it's been sprayed at some point. You can see that brushed aluminum behind it. I'll check for the date code tomorrow.

I never even seen the lift mech in the pictures so when I saw it I was pleasantly surprised. It does need some work. The spindle pulley has some slop in it.

Any idea what I should do with this one? I have another DP that appears to be all original and taller than this one. Maybe I can use the lift table on the other one.

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[lafester]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Thanks so much for the info. The motor has a Craftsman tag in it and looks like it's been sprayed at some point. You can see that brushed aluminum behind it. I'll check for the date code tomorrow.

I never even seen the lift mech in the pictures so when I saw it I was pleasantly surprised. It does need some work. The spindle pulley has some slop in it.

Any idea what I should do with this one? I have another DP that appears to be all original and taller than this one. Maybe I can use the lift table on the other one.

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What is the other machine?

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[oldsfan442]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Here it is. I'll get a model number tomorrow. Not sure why this one doesn't say 150 on it though.

Bryan

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[oldsfan442]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Here's more pics of the Frankenpress. I can get more tomorrow if interested.

Bryan

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[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Here it is. I'll get a model number tomorrow. Not sure why this one doesn't say 150 on it though.

Bryan

That machine is a Craftsman 100, model 103.23140 or 103.23141 which are virtually the same machine.

Craftsman 100's were made between 1946 and 1958. Craftsman 150's were made between 1958 and 1967(?).

The date code on the motor of your second machine looks like 9 53.

 

[11b30b4]

Hello Frank, disassembly started, and I started a build thread here:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8790943#post8790943

When I said it was a block of rust, I was not kidding.

 

[vertguy]

I have searched for quite a while for a light solution to use on my 150 and came across a creative solution on ebay. But the seller's price was a bit steep and he would not budge, so I decided to build my own. After sourcing some steel (pipe and flat) along with the lamp, cord and switch, I started laying it out and fabricating the last couple days in the garage. In typical GJ fashion, I am sure this is over engineered with 1/8 steel... but it worked and was easy to weld. But cutting the 2 holes definitely tested the 1/2 HP motor.

I had to estimate a couple of the measurements and to my surprise, the first pass actually fit. I could add ~1/2 in. to the pipe so the bulb tucks up a bit further into the head assembly, but I think the current position actually allows for more light to hit the table. Although I added a switch, I need to pick up a short ext cord so it will operate from the DP foot switch.

I tried using an LED bulb and the style I have was too wide to fit into the DP head opening. So I used on old 100 watt incandescent.

 

[Smokeshow69]

I have searched for quite a while for a light solution to use on my 150 and came across a creative solution on ebay. But the seller's price was a bit steep and he would not budge, so I decided to build my own. After sourcing some steel (pipe and flat) along with the lamp, cord and switch, I started laying it out and fabricating the last couple days in the garage. In typical GJ fashion, I am sure this is over engineered with 1/8 steel... but it worked and was easy to weld. But cutting the 2 holes definitely tested the 1/2 HP motor.

I had to estimate a couple of the measurements and to my surprise, the first pass actually fit. I could add ~1/2 in. to the pipe so the bulb tucks up a bit further into the head assembly, but I think the current position actually allows for more light to hit the table. Although I added a switch, I need to pick up a short ext cord so it will operate from the DP foot switch.

I tried using an LED bulb and the style I have was too wide to fit into the DP head opening. So I used on old 100 watt incandescent.

That is a great idea! I would be using this if I didn’t have an era correct heritage flexible lamp. If you buy some of the medium size led bulbs, they should fit up in your drill press head! Here is one in my lamp. It is probably 1” shorter than a conventional size bulb



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[Cruzan80]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Best idea I have seen is someone who drilled a hole in the side (right side), fitted with a low profile knob. The entire thing came off of an old sewing machine. Bulb wasnt blinding, but was angled slightly forward of vertical to trow light directly on the chuck/bit. He then tied the entire thing into the power cord for the motor, so there were no extra wires.

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[FrankLee]

Very nice work, Vert!

 

[FrankLee]

Dp#93

DP#93 is a 2nd-gen Emerson, bench model 113.24540. The seller said it went unused for many years. It's all there, has some minor rust and basically in decent shape. I will likely refurbish this one.

​

11/25/2020

Dp#93 is 95% dismantled. Most small parts are soaking in mineral spirits.

​

Because the feed handle rods were quite rusty, I soaked them in citric acid. All three were similarly rusted, but they all turned out quite well. They'll look even better after some polish.

Citric acid for the win!

​

11/26/2020

All the small parts I had soaking in mineral spirits were cleaned. Some parts were also soaked in citric acid to remove rust which usually removes the blacking.

​

11/27/2020

The quill/spindle and the hub/pinion/spring assemblies were cleaned and reassembled.

All cast iron parts and the belt cover were cleaned with Grez-Off. The column was scrubbed with mineral spirits.

​

Feed handle knobs were polished.

​

11/28/2020

The head frame casting was soaked for about 30 minutes in BKF and scrubbed to remediate the light rust on the paint.



12/1/2020

Progress on dp#93 is slow but steady. The motor and chuck are pretty much all that's left.

​

This afternoon, I cracked open the motor, cleaned it and reassembled. This one is a 1/2 hp, 1725 rpm, split phase model 113.12120 with date code K6897. It was one of the cleanest inside that I've had.

​

12/4/2020

DP#93 is complete. I installed the capacitor-start motor from dp#94 and installed dp#93's motor onto dp#92.

​

 

[Indexmill]

I have searched for quite a while for a light solution to use on my 150 and came across a creative solution on ebay. But the seller's price was a bit steep and he would not budge, so I decided to build my own. After sourcing some steel (pipe and flat) along with the lamp, cord and switch, I started laying it out and fabricating the last couple days in the garage. In typical GJ fashion, I am sure this is over engineered with 1/8 steel... but it worked and was easy to weld. But cutting the 2 holes definitely tested the 1/2 HP motor.

I had to estimate a couple of the measurements and to my surprise, the first pass actually fit. I could add ~1/2 in. to the pipe so the bulb tucks up a bit further into the head assembly, but I think the current position actually allows for more light to hit the table. Although I added a switch, I need to pick up a short ext cord so it will operate from the DP foot switch.

I tried using an LED bulb and the style I have was too wide to fit into the DP head opening. So I used on old 100 watt incandescent.

I think it is brilliant. And very well executed.

 

[y'sguy]

I have searched for quite a while for a light solution to use on my 150 and came across a creative solution on ebay. But the seller's price was a bit steep and he would not budge, so I decided to build my own. After sourcing some steel (pipe and flat) along with the lamp, cord and switch, I started laying it out and fabricating the last couple days in the garage. In typical GJ fashion, I am sure this is over engineered with 1/8 steel... but it worked and was easy to weld. But cutting the 2 holes definitely tested the 1/2 HP motor.

I had to estimate a couple of the measurements and to my surprise, the first pass actually fit. I could add ~1/2 in. to the pipe so the bulb tucks up a bit further into the head assembly, but I think the current position actually allows for more light to hit the table. Although I added a switch, I need to pick up a short ext cord so it will operate from the DP foot switch.

I tried using an LED bulb and the style I have was too wide to fit into the DP head opening. So I used on old 100 watt incandescent.

I like your solution and may have to borrow this idea . My lamp work very well but I prefer concealing it like yours so it doesn't hang out. Although it works really well.

View media item 106826

 

[FrankLee]

Dp#94

I picked up dp#94 this morning... a 4th-gen Emerson model 113.213710. It was originally a floor-standing machine, but a previous owner cut down the column. He did a very poor job. One side of the column is 43", the other side is 42-1/4".

There are too many missing, fubar and replaced parts for a refurb. I can use a couple good parts and will part-out the rest.

​

12/1/2020

DP#94 is probably the dirtiest/grimiest machine I've had. It also has the worst table I've had. There are lots of divots, but surprisingly, none go all the way through the table.

This table, base and column will make a perfect grinder stand.

​

The side panels on this machine were also nasty. However, the original plastic protective film was still intact. After I peeled them off and cleaned the panels with cleaner wax, they shine like new!

​

Last one I parted did really well...
You don't see too many home made hubs, I wonder what they did to the stock one.

Even with it's poor condition, I think dp#94 will part-out well too.


Yeah, I've seen several homemade hubs and they are usually poorly welded. Your post prompted me to take a closer look at this one and compare it to an oe hub.

This hub was definitely overbuilt in stainless steel. The diameter is about the same, but it's much thicker. It attaches to the pinion shaft with the original pin, so it came apart quite easily.

​

It wasn't until I cleaned it up when I could really see just how nice the craftsmanship is. Whoever made this hub knew exactly what they were doing.

​

12/2/2020

This morning, I cleaned the motor from dp#94. This motor is a model 113.12550, 1/2 hp, 1725 rpm with capacitor start. It has a date code of 4 78. It was just as dirty as the rest of the machine and took a while to remove the grime off the case.

​

 

[11b30b4]

94! since 2012, that 11 and 3/4 presses a year Frank. You are a machine and I am very thankful you have shared so much with the community.

 

[ZBear]

Here is a decent looking machine in Cedar Rapids for $100. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/139317224300431/?ref=share_attachment

 

[lafester]

Re: Dp#94

Last one I parted did really well...
You don't see too many home made hubs, I wonder what they did to the stock one.

I picked up dp#94 this morning... a 4th-gen Emerson model 113.213710. It was originally a floor-standing machine, but a previous owner cut down the column. He did a very poor job. One side of the column is 43", the other side is 42-1/4".

There are too many missing, fubar and replaced parts for a refurb. I can use a couple good parts and will part-out the rest.

 

[FrankLee]

Re: Dp#94

Here is a decent looking machine in Cedar Rapids for $100. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/139317224300431/?ref=share_attachment

That must have been a nice machine... the ad is already deleted.

 

[oldsfan442]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Is there money to be made parting these out? I was thinking I may do that to the Frankenpress I shared a few posts ago. Then I saw where someone said the table, stand, and base would make a nice grinder stand. So maybe part out the main head and associated parts. Would you put the parts on Ebay?

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[FrankLee]

Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Is there money to be made parting these out? I was thinking I may do that to the Frankenpress I shared a few posts ago. Then I saw where someone said the table, stand, and base would make a nice grinder stand. So maybe part out the main head and associated parts. Would you put the parts on Ebay?

Yes, generally the sum of the parts is greater than the whole.

Yes, the base, column and table make an awesome grinder stand. IMO, it's much better than the oe Craftsman pedestal grinder stand. It has a larger footprint and heavier overall. A grinder stand with bench drill press parts is the same height as the oe pedestal. With floor-standing parts, the height is adjustable. There's a link in my first post.

Yes, eBay if you can tolerate it.

 

[lafester]

Re: Dp#94

Wow, that is much nicer then I thought it would be.

That must have been a nice machine... the ad is already deleted.

Even with it's poor condition, I think dp#94 will part-out well too.

Yeah, I've seen several homemade hubs and they are usually poorly welded. Your post prompted me to take a closer look at this one and compare it to an oe hub.

This hub was definitely overbuilt in stainless steel. The diameter is about the same, but it's much thicker. It attaches to the pinion shaft with the original pin, so it came apart quite easily.

It wasn't until I cleaned it up when I could really see just how nice the craftsmanship is. Whoever made this hub knew exactly what they were doing.

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[FrankLee]

This past August, there was some discussion in this thread regarding the Emerson Craftsman 2nd-gen quill & spindle assemblies versus the 3rd/4th-gen quill & spindle assemblies. I never really had a chance to compare these assemblies and explore swapping possibilities until recently when I acquired dp#93 and dp#94.

Below is a photo of the two assemblies side-by-side. The assembly on top is the Emerson 2nd-gen; on the bottom, the 3rd/4th-gen.

​

There is a chart in this post with dimensions of quills and spindles from six different models of Craftsman drill presses.



So, regarding swapping these assemblies...

I installed the 4th-gen assembly into a 2nd-gen head frame casting. Here's what I found:

• The quill would not raise completely in the head casting because the gear rack did not extend far enough down to the bottom of the quill. There was a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the quill snap ring and the casting.
  This could be addressed by using a short spacer on the quill.
• The spindle fed out of the spindle pulley shaft because of the shorter spindle.
  This could be addressed using a permanent feed stop collar toward the top of the feed stop rod.
• The overall quill feed would be slightly shorter if making this swap.

I did not swap the 2nd-gen assembly into a 3rd/4th-gen machine, but the only issue I see is the longer spindle. This could be addressed by cutting a small hole in the plastic cover or by shortening the spindle. The overall quill feed would be longer making this swap.