Craftsman dual shaft motor

[Orca]

Hi, I finally got the correct capacitor for the vintage circa 1949 Craftsman 3/4 HP dual shaft motor. Well it still will not spin correctly. I am assuming the motor needs to come apart to get to the centrifugal switch. I can pull the end cap opposite the cap that has the circuit reset button on it. But I cannot get the other end cap off. Is there a secret to get the opposite cap off to get to the centrifugal switch. I am not able to pull the armature out the end I have off. Assume the shaft is stuck to the bearing on the opposite side. Thanks.

 

[FrankLee]

The instructions to reverse rotation are on the label. The capacitor has no bearing on rotation direction.

 

[micromind]

What do you mean by 'spin correctly'?

If it doesn't turn at all, most likely it's the centrifugal switch. If it turns in the wrong direction but starts right up, it's a wiring connection issue.

 

[seber]

Use a soft hammer and drive the armature out of the shell. The end bell will come with it. If it does not move relatively easily, something is wrong. Make very sure you have all structural screws removed.

 

[Orca]

Hi no it does not turn at all. Hums and trips the breaker. I replaced the capacitor and no difference. So it has to be the centrifugal switch. The end with the reset switch cover is the issue. I cannot get the armature shaft to move thru the bearing on that side of the case to pull the armature out.Tapped on shaft several times while supporting the end cover. I lubricated the hell out of the bearing and shaft but will not budge. Afraid to use a puller on the end cap. Afraid of breaking that cover.

 

[Cruzan80]

Doesnt have to be the centrifugal switch. Start windings could be shot (in which case the motor is toast).

Tapping on the whole shaft if one side is off should drive the entire thing (end-cap and all) separate from the main housing. There may be wires connecting back to the center, so probably don't just smack it as hard as possible. Are you seeing any separation between the end-bell and center housing?

If the shaft is sticking out, try sanding/polishing the exposed end just a bit, in case there is a burr on there. Best bet is low heat, penetrating oil, and back and forth tapping until you see movement. Then smooth the shaft, and drive the smoothed end out with your favorite tool.

 

[FrankLee]

There's no getting around needing a puller on the end cap. The puller is not actually pulling the cap off, it's pushing the rotor shaft through the bearing. Very rarely will the rotor slide out of that bearing. Just try to avoid using the outer circumference of the cap.

 

[OccupantRJ]

For the people talking about reversing direction, on those motors you just turn them around on their mount. That made them a more universal application.

 

[Maui]

Um, I've pulled those motors apart several times and never needed any kind of puller. You just need to carefully tap at specific points on the end cap to free it up. It just takes a careful touch and patience. Note that the wires are not very long, and it can be a real pain to disconnect these wires to actually free up the end bell that contains the centrifugal switch. Putting it all back together is not too bad, but aligning it so that the motor spins freely can also be very tedious. Don't be surprised of it takes you multiple tries.

 

[FrankLee]

?

 

[Orca]

Thank you all. I will try and repolish shaft to see if that helps. Never had a shaft so tight in a bearing like this before. And do not want to break end cap so possibly a puller is in order. Will take my time to see if wiring is bad or the switch is bad. To replace the motor I found a Dayton 1.5 HP motor from a air compressor. Bought it for $35.00 (stole it). Guy plugged it in to verify it worked. Brought it home and BAM. Did not work. So checked capacitor first. O.K. Confused the hell out of me as it worked several hours ago. So I took it apart and low and behold the inside of the motor was full of saw dust. Blew it all out and cleaned op the centrifugal switch contacts (were not making good contact) Put it back together and now works great. Must have been the ride home jostled the **** inside. Used contact cleaner on points and soft cloth. Bet motor was acting up on him so he unloaded it to me. got lucky on it. O.K. Thanks to the forum. Will keep you posted as to progress on Craftsman dual shaft motor progress. Would like to use her again.

 

[Orca]

I polished the shaft and no burrs. I tried using my 2 finger bearing puller attaching the arms to the end cap but the casting where the fingers attach are curved so no positive grab from the ends of the fingers. It keeps slipping off. Is there a special puller I need?

 

[OccupantRJ]

Put a hose clamp around the two arms of the puller to help keep them from spreading apart.

 

[Nick Rivers]

Have you watched the Jeff's Shop video on a 1950s Craftsman motor rebuilding? (he is a G.J. member)

 

[micromind]

Heat could be your friend here......heat the end bell at the bearing but not the shaft. It should expand a bit and allow for an easier pull.

 

[FrankLee]

The goal is to push the arbor through the bearing to remove the rotor assembly, not to remove the end cap from the bearing or the stator.

Position the puller jaws to the extreme left or right in the vents. Usually that's enough bite on the cap.

OR, reverse the jaws to grab the outer edge of the vent (less desirable).