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Craftsman Laser Etched Sockets

danski0224

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Bought some new sockets recently, and I don't like the new style, either.

I wonder if they are now made with powdered metal instead of a forging.
 
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dink

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They are a total waste of extra pennies for the "laser etching" It wears off eventually...Its not any easier to read then the standard ones....now on impacts its a different story....I like it alot better
 

ImportTuner

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Were there different manufacturers of the Craftsman Laser etched sockets; I have some with round numbers (socket size) and some with square numbers.
:bounce:
 
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danski0224

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dink said:
They are a total waste of extra pennies for the "laser etching" It wears off eventually...Its not any easier to read then the standard ones....now on impacts its a different story....I like it alot better

I doubt the powdered metal manufacturing process allows the traditional size stampings, so the laser etching is the solution.
 

Deafautotech

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i still have many stamp sockets and love it but i just use laser etch 13mm deep socket which i use almost every hour and found that laser etch starting to fade away but can see if you look close enough.
 

wilbilt

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I don't think it's limited to the laser-etched ones. I recently bought some 3/8" drive "old style" sockets, and posted then about how wimpy they looked.

I used them on one job, and the 12mm is all buggered up. It was used with a hand ratchet only (I don't own an air ratchet).

I did a lot of cussing on that job, maybe I hurt it's feelings...;)
 

Deafautotech

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i dont bust any my craftsman sockets but i got craftsman 1/4 dr ratchet that have bad lever as it loose and i found that there is shorter spring than other 1/4 craftsman ratchet. so i had it replaced it.

i own mac tool socket(swivel impact sockets), snap on sockets and swivels impacts socket, and matco tools impacts sockets. all of them work great and they dont cracks or problems. i use my right tools for air tools and ratchets then it would not break unless use wrong tool then good bye the tool.
 

kythri

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danski0224 said:
I doubt the powdered metal manufacturing process allows the traditional size stampings, so the laser etching is the solution.

The powdered metal cast/forge/whatever process has been around longer than the laser etch. I saw a busted stamped socket a few years back.

As far as the etching goes, I'm kinda torn - part of me misses the now-"retro" stamping, the other part of me loves the new look of the sockets.

Part of mine are etched, and I haven't had any fading, as of yet. If they do, they'll be getting exchanged. That's what the warranty is for. If I can't tell what size the socket is, then it's useless, and I'm not satisfied.
 

kartracer55

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I have a few older style sockets mixed in with a set of laser etched, and there is clearly a difference. This is far superior to Matco's "enamel" inlay, and snap on doesnt have any provisions on thier chrome sockets for this. 10feet of visibility is definetly a stretch, but on a rack laying flat up, they are very easy to identify. Id have expected them to be stamped as well as laser etched, but Id imagine for cost reasons, they arnt. Acually, Id have to guess that laser etching is cheaper than stamping the sockets now that the process has been refined. Thats why sears is unloading all the old style sockets.

One thing I dont like about sears sockets is that they arnt chromed, but just nickle plated. They seem to get dull very fast, which, while not a big deal, sometimes makes them a bit harder to find when you drop them. Thats more of a cost issue id imagine.


Also, I came across an article that showed how craftsman sockets are made, from start to finish. At the time of the article, they started life as big rolls of tubing in specific diameters. The tubing was then cut and cold forged into shape. I have searched many times for this article. It was in a car magazine I believe, either hotrod or popular hottrodding. If anybody could post this up it would be great. Its a good read.

Jim
 

wilbilt

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kartracer55 said:
One thing I dont like about sears sockets is that they arnt chromed, but just nickle plated. They seem to get dull very fast, which, while not a big deal, sometimes makes them a bit harder to find when you drop them. Thats more of a cost issue id imagine.

Jim

They are chromed, but not as well as in the past. It is common practice to nickel-plate parts before chroming. Usually, the chrome is put on heavy enough (i.e., multiple platings) to cover any traces of nickel.

I have noticed a tendency toward a nickel hue in Cman sockets going back ten years or more; lately, it has become unacceptably noticeable.

If they are now producing powdered-metal sockets that are essentially nickel plated, I can see no positive aspects or recommendations as a result.
 

wilbilt

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ImportTuner said:
Is there anyway to tell if a tool is forged or powdered metal ...?

Sacrificial testing, maybe. Saw one in half and look at the grain, then pound on the pieces and watch how they break.

One might expect that some representatives of the tool companies would find their way into forums such as this and enlighten us about their advantages over brand "X".

They seem to be conspicuously absent, maybe because there is nothing to tell and everything to hide. Just one possible way to look at it.
 

kartracer55

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Somebody experienced can look at the tool and marks from manufacturing and can tell you. I know that I can not do this, but Id CAN be done aparatly.

Jim
 

kythri

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I'd imagine that unless they say "FORGED IN USA" (like a lot of Craftsman stuff used to) they're no longer forged.

A lot of stuff is now saying "MADE IN USA".

I'm curious if that's truly an indicator that the tool is not forged, or what.

If they're not forging them, are they casting them, or MIM'ing them, or what?
 
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danski0224

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ImportTuner said:
Is there anyway to tell if a tool is forged or powdered metal ...?

I think, at least in the socket example, is the lack of parting lines inside the business end, the consistent smoothness inside the business end (especially compared to something like Snap On) and the complexity of the area that engages the retaining ball on the ratchet (I doubt this can be forged at the Craftsman price point).

That's my take on it, worth the price paid. :bounce:
 

kythri

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wilbilt said:
What is "MIM"?

Metal Injection Molding.

Metal Injection Molding (MIM) combines the shape and design flexibility of thermoplastic injection molding with the mechanical properties of high performance powder metals, which makes metal injection molding a cost-effective solution for a variety of industries.

Sounds about like what they're doing with some of the socket stuff out there.

It's actually some pretty cool stuff, and rivals forging in a lot of respects (especially cost).

One of my other hobbies is firearms, which is where I learned about MIM.

Traditionally, quality parts are forged, and lesser-quality (though not neccessarily BAD) are investment-cast. MIM is a new-ish alternative to both.

Heckler and Koch recently switched from forging a lot of key parts (such as bolts, bolt carriers, and more) to MIM'ing them, and there's been few, if any, issues/complaints.
 
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eschoendorff

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In the end, who cares? All sockets will potentially break... whether it be Snap On, Craftsman, or Pittsburgh.

Then again, it's easy for me to say... I've never broken any socket.
 

ImportTuner

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eschoendorff said:
In the end, who cares? All sockets will potentially break... whether it be Snap On, Craftsman, or Pittsburgh.

Then again, it's easy for me to say... I've never broken any socket.
Amazing ... how long have you been wrenching ... I've broken some, but not that many; one day I broke 3 sockets trying to get the timing belt cover/pulley off ..
:bounce:
 

MarkH

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I have broken a number of sockets usually some lower rated brand on some piece of farm equipment. Usually was uing one size too small of socket drive and too long a cheater bar. The situation usually was I should use a a 3/4 or an 1" drive here but that is in the other pickup 50 miles away so lets try the 1/2 or 3/4 with this six foot bar. Somedays it worked somedays it did not. The travel time and additional downtime avoided when it did was much less costly than a busted socket so for us it was the preferred choice. The second choice when it did was usually not a trip to get the larger set. It was usually do I have a piece of steel or another bolt with me I can replace that with if I cut it off.

I think this is where I got my first negative taste for some poorer quality imported tools. Along with the first vises I broke in 1 week, I twisted the heads off 3 Chinese breaker bars this way, the pins broke. I got the nuts off with them. I put one in the vise on the back of the pickup and welded it together, that held. Brought them back to the dealer and stated I did not want a replacement for such junk. Gave him a list of what brands and types I wanted our crews to pick up and to replace items not on the list if anyone tried to buy something else.
 

wilbilt

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eschoendorff said:
In the end, who cares? All sockets will potentially break... whether it be Snap On, Craftsman, or Pittsburgh.

Then again, it's easy for me to say... I've never broken any socket.

Consider yourself lucky, then. It is easy to get injured when one breaks.

I have broken several, mostly imported junk. One caused a gash that required stitches. Great way to ruin a day.

I haven't broken a Craftsman yet, but it looks like that day is coming.
 

eschoendorff

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ImportTuner said:
Amazing ... how long have you been wrenching
Immaterial. The point is, that when people break sockets, it is uysually because they were doing something that shouldn't be doing with them. Yes, sometimes you will need to sacrifice a tool to get a job done, but I don't see how MIM, powdered metal or forging really has anything to do with that. In the end, if the socket's abused or over-stressed, it will break. Whether it's made of titanium or glass.
 

MarkH

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The most dangerous for me is when you do not expect something to break. When I know I am beyond the limits there are protections you can take that frequently I do not see others doing.

One of them is after major overstress is to continue to consider the tool sacrificed and remove it from service. I have done that since the closest call I had was in ordinary stress following major overstress with what looked like a hidden until broken minor manufacturing defect in the tool.
 

kartracer55

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Ive broken a bunch of sockets, and all but one of them was broken because it was a chrome socket that had at one time, or was currently being used on an impact. Some may consider it abuse, but when you pay 14$ for a snap on socket, who really cares if they have to give you a replacement... they still make money.

I try to use impacts whenever I can, but the reality of it is, sometimes you are forced to use a chrome socket to get the job done. If it breaks it breaks

Jim
 

eschoendorff

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kartracer55 said:
Ive broken a bunch of sockets, and all but one of them was broken because it was a chrome socket that had at one time, or was currently being used on an impact. Some may consider it abuse, but when you pay 14$ for a snap on socket, who really cares if they have to give you a replacement... they still make money.

I try to use impacts whenever I can, but the reality of it is, sometimes you are forced to use a chrome socket to get the job done. If it breaks it breaks

Jim
Right, but then you go into the job knowing the implications of using a chrome socket on an impact tool.
 

wilbilt

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eschoendorff said:
Right, but then you go into the job knowing the implications of using a chrome socket on an impact tool.

100 years ago, I was in need of some metric 1/2" drive impact sockets. Enter the Mac tool truck guy at my time of need. Lo, he did not have any metric 1/2" drive impact sockets.

He sold me a set of metric 1/2" drive chrome 6pt sockets, stating that "they are the same sockets, except for the finish, and the warranty is the same, so what difference does it make?".

Every single one broke (except the 11mm-have I ever used it?) incuding the one that caused the stitches-required gore.

I still have that (mostly replaced) set.

What can I say? I was young and dumb.
 

ImportTuner

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wilbilt said:
100 years ago, I was in need of some metric 1/2" drive impact sockets. Enter the Mac tool truck guy at my time of need. Lo, he did not have any metric 1/2" drive impact sockets.

He sold me a set of metric 1/2" drive chrome 6pt sockets, stating that "they are the same sockets, except for the finish, and the warranty is the same, so what difference does it make?".

Every single one broke (except the 11mm-have I ever used it?) incuding the one that caused the stitches-required gore.

I still have that (mostly replaced) set.

What can I say? I was young and dumb.
And you believed everything the Mac tool truck guy says .... All the tool truck drivers/salesman (Snap On, Matco, Mac Tools, Cornwell) will tell you anything to make the sale ...
 

wilbilt

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ImportTuner said:
And you believed everything the Mac tool truck guy says .... All the tool truck drivers/salesman (Snap On, Matco, Mac Tools, Cornwell) will tell you anything to make the sale ...

Well, I believed half of it (the warranty part). I needed the sockets, and he showed up...extending credit, of course. :bounce:
 

Major Ramifications

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I like the laser etching very much, as I find it much easier to read the size. I wish it was done on at least two "sides" of the socket.
On the old stamped sockets, it would be nice if they would stamp a larger number than they do, and in more than one place.
Just like my dad told me, I find that my eyesight aint what it used to be as I near the big 4-0.
 

ImportTuner

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Major Ramifications said:
I like the laser etching very much, as I find it much easier to read the size. I wish it was done on at least two "sides" of the socket.
On the old stamped sockets, it would be nice if they would stamp a larger number than they do, and in more than one place.
Just like my dad told me, I find that my eyesight aint what it used to be as I near the big 4-0.
And it gets worst when you hit the big 5-0; after that it's really all down hills..
:beer:
I have to admit, the laser etched sockets are easier to see ..
 

wilbilt

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I have a hard time reading any of them. I rely on the calibrated fingertip method. Stick your finger in the socket and know what size it is.

It only takes a short time to learn.
 
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