Craftsman Mohawk drill press 103.0305 question

[dgenpres]

Pardon my newbie ignorance. This is the first tool restoration I've started.
I watched the excellent My Lil' Mule videos of the restoration of the 103.0303 model (many times), but my model comes apart slightly differently and/or has parts that are stuck. I'm down to the last thing I want to disassemble and can't figure it out.
There appears to be a short tube in the head casting that holds two bearings and a spring. In the My Lil' Mule video, that tube just falls right out when he removes the spindle, but mine doesn't budge. I've tried hammering lightly on it, but before I get the heavier hammer and other efforts is there something I'm missing? I want to get that tube out, then get the bearings off so I can replace the bearings (and more easily work on the cast head casing.)
I've been documenting everything I've done with this process so I'll post a full thread on the various tricks and issues I've encountered when I start to reassemble this machine.

 

[FrankLee]

Pardon my newbie ignorance. This is the first tool restoration I've started.
I watched the excellent My Lil' Mule videos of the restoration of the 103.0303 model (many times), but my model comes apart slightly differently and/or has parts that are stuck. I'm down to the last thing I want to disassemble and can't figure it out.
There appears to be a short tube in the head casting that holds two bearings and a spring. In the My Lil' Mule video, that tube just falls right out when he removes the spindle, but mine doesn't budge. I've tried hammering lightly on it, but before I get the heavier hammer and other efforts is there something I'm missing? I want to get that tube out, then get the bearings off so I can replace the bearings (and more easily work on the cast head casing.)
I've been documenting everything I've done with this process so I'll post a full thread on the various tricks and issues I've encountered when I start to reassemble this machine.

That bearing shaft is pressed into the head casting. You'll need to use or fabricate some kind of puller. Maybe something with a threaded rod through the bearing shaft against the quill support below the shaft.

That coiled part under the bearings is simply a spacer to set the bearings at the correct height for the pulley.

 

[dgenpres]

That bearing shaft is pressed into the head casting. You'll need to use or fabricate some kind of puller. Maybe something with a threaded rod through the bearing shaft against the quill support below the shaft.

That coiled part under the bearings is simply a spacer to set the bearings at the correct height for the pulley.

Thanks. I may leave the tube and just get the bearings off. I have a vague idea of how to do that, just need it to stop raining long enough to give it a try. The joys of not having a lot of shop space...

 

[dgenpres]

Next question: how do I get the chuck off? The various videos I've watched make it seem like a simple press fit, but my (perhaps too small) gear puller won't do it.

 

[FrankLee]

Those Jacobs 6A chucks generally do not have a hole through the center of the chuck. Your puller is doing nothing.
You should reinstall the pin and thrust collar. You need wedges to remove the chuck from the taper.

Early Atlas and King-Seeley drill presses with that style chuck generally came equipped with a chuck release wedge #11355. You adjust the thrust collar nut # 11321 down, if necessary, to use the wedge.

 

[gleman]

I had a chuck that was stuck on for fifty+ years. That stupid thing bedeviled me for too long.

I took @11b30b4 s advise and bought this.



Popped it off like it was nothing.

 

[FrankLee]

Popped it off like it was nothing.

That is the correct tool for Safe-Lock chucks (633C). The 6A chucks need wedges.

 

[gleman]

Thanks Frank!

@dgenpres Listen to Frank, not me!

 

[FrankLee]

Your puller is doing nothing.

Actually, the puller did do something.

The sleeve on the chuck started sliding off the internal split nut by a fraction of an inch. Because the jaws of the chuck are fully retracted, the inside lip of the sleeve stopped sliding progress of the sleeve. This will often break the end teeth of the jaw(s).

If the sleeve is now jammed and won't turn, you will need to fully reseat the sleeve to extend the jaws.

 

[dgenpres]

Those Jacobs 6A chucks generally do not have a hole through the center of the chuck. Your puller is doing nothing.
You should reinstall the pin and thrust collar. You need wedges to remove the chuck from the taper.

So wedge and hammer?
It occurred to me *after* attempting the gear puller (and posting here) that there might not be a hole. Google the 6A and a diagram shows no hole.

 

[FrankLee]

I watched the excellent My Lil' Mule videos

That explains a lot.

IMO, those videos are not very good... terrible actually.
Here's why...
Complete lack of detail. Questionable sequence of dismantling and assembly.
Questionable techniques... using a mallet to seat bearings, Channel Locks parts, hammering on the spindle pulley to get it and the bearing shaft out from underneath, etc, etc.

 

[dgenpres]

That explains a lot.

Best resource I've found for this model so far. There are more detailed videos for later models that have influenced the amount of work I'm, willing to do so this thing will be as pretty as it will be functional.

 

[dgenpres]

Actually, the puller did do something.

The sleeve on the chuck started sliding off the internal split nut by a fraction of an inch. Because the jaws of the chuck are fully retracted, the inside lip of the sleeve stopped sliding progress of the sleeve. This will often break the end teeth of the jaw(s).

If the sleeve is now jammed and won't turn, you will need to fully reseat the sleeve to extend the jaws.

It caused the chuck to be stuck but did nothing else. Learning!