skeer
Well-known member
Dumb question but.. the top cast iron and bottom aluminum halves of the motor mount, should spin independently yeah?
Craftsman RAS, yoke pivot?
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Innovate1
Well-known member
I think you are talking about rotating the motor to go between rip and cross cut. Yes, it should rotate. There is a lock that keeps the joint from rotating. If that is released it should turn. If you give the model you may get more specific info.
Zeke
Well-known member
You don't ever want to use that saw any way but pull towards you. That feature should be disabled. Especially on a wobbly CM.
Or just set the anti-kickback/lift pawls correctly and rip away. Once upon a time I lucked into several thousand feet of cedar lap and gap siding that was all new but with a lot damaged edges. I had a radial arm saw and needed the thin and damaged edges gone in order to have a nominal 1x6 for fencing. Went to town on it. Built over 2000 running feet of privacy fence with that lumber.
Still got all my fingers. No issues at all. But, with that pawl system in place and adjusted correctly.
Still got all my fingers. No issues at all. But, with that pawl system in place and adjusted correctly.
Skyman
Well-known member
And using push sticks, of course. Blade guard lowered such that it hovers just above the workpiece. Blade/fence parallelism confirmed.
I've done some ripping of board lumber on my old CM RAS, but always using maximum safety precautions, and only with the utmost respect for the hazards the process presents.
Keep everything that's precious a safe distance from the blade at all times, and well out of line with the trajectory of a potentially kicked-out workpiece. Take your time and don't force-feed it. Use out-feed support when common sense dictates.
Make sure that any unintended occurrence doesn't become a Very Bad Day.
I've done some ripping of board lumber on my old CM RAS, but always using maximum safety precautions, and only with the utmost respect for the hazards the process presents.
Keep everything that's precious a safe distance from the blade at all times, and well out of line with the trajectory of a potentially kicked-out workpiece. Take your time and don't force-feed it. Use out-feed support when common sense dictates.
Make sure that any unintended occurrence doesn't become a Very Bad Day.
Zeke
Well-known member
That video is enough to make you never rip a board on a RAS. And he didn't mention that the blade is always trying to lift the work up. He did change the position of the guard to block the work from rising much, so he knows. Pushing his little test sample with his hands doesn't even come close to the forces of a real kick back. If that type of board kicked it would break the anti kick back thingy he made right off the blade guard. I've had 3 CM RAS and they are flimsy compared to that Rockwell or the granddaddy, the De Walt.
If I didn't have a need for constantly crosscutting shallow dados, that saw would never have occupied my shop. And they are a space hog as well. YMMV.
If I didn't have a need for constantly crosscutting shallow dados, that saw would never have occupied my shop. And they are a space hog as well. YMMV.
Zeke
Well-known member
Yes, he addressed the pawls 'camming' over and fabricated a stop for them to remain in the board. That's when the rod holder would likely snap off. However, the violence of a kick back is so tremendous that if the rod/holder didn't bend or break, the board may just let the pawls drag a deep scratch in the board while it leaves for the wall.
Older table saws that had a pawl type of AKB used a more crescent shaped one with 2-3 notches for pawls. And they were on the side of the blade that is trying to bring the board up off the table. Not like Ian's that are holding down what is already being pushed down by the rotation of the blade.
Older table saws that had a pawl type of AKB used a more crescent shaped one with 2-3 notches for pawls. And they were on the side of the blade that is trying to bring the board up off the table. Not like Ian's that are holding down what is already being pushed down by the rotation of the blade.
Zeke
Well-known member
Are you serious? Jeez, try a google or YT search. The table saw is hands down the most dangerous tool in the shop. And only because there are not many RAS's in service by comparison.
WillyBoy
Well-known member
Here's the manual for that machine:
Down load and print it. It's really necessary reading for safe operating. I had that model as my first stationary power tool. I bought it in 1975 and had it for 45 years. It worked well for what it was designed to do. I obtained a DeWalt GWI 5 years ago and turned in the Craftsman motor and carriage for the Emerson bounty. I really liked the location of the switch. For right hand operation, pull the switch on with your thumb - pull the carriage through the material - push the switch to shut off. Your hand never has to leave the carriage handle. Some people prefer a negative rake blade for radial arm saws in general. Don't count on it to solve all the inherent cautions with a radial arm. NEVER try to yank the blade through the material. The most dangerous machine in the shop is the one you're standing in front of when it's running.
The guard drops over the slot in the motor casting near to the arbor flange. The guard is also where the kickback pall assembly attaches. If you have the guard in hand, it should be obvious how it attaches. Considering it's age, it may be a candidate for new motor bearings and general clean-up. Good luck with it.
Down load and print it. It's really necessary reading for safe operating. I had that model as my first stationary power tool. I bought it in 1975 and had it for 45 years. It worked well for what it was designed to do. I obtained a DeWalt GWI 5 years ago and turned in the Craftsman motor and carriage for the Emerson bounty. I really liked the location of the switch. For right hand operation, pull the switch on with your thumb - pull the carriage through the material - push the switch to shut off. Your hand never has to leave the carriage handle. Some people prefer a negative rake blade for radial arm saws in general. Don't count on it to solve all the inherent cautions with a radial arm. NEVER try to yank the blade through the material. The most dangerous machine in the shop is the one you're standing in front of when it's running.
The guard drops over the slot in the motor casting near to the arbor flange. The guard is also where the kickback pall assembly attaches. If you have the guard in hand, it should be obvious how it attaches. Considering it's age, it may be a candidate for new motor bearings and general clean-up. Good luck with it.
Thanks for the guard info, yeah the kickback rake does t seem like it’d be very strong only using the guards clamp for finally support. I’m probably going to end up modding a guard from a miter saw or the like. It won’t be as quick or easy to remove but I would rather it be ON THERE than not.
Zeke
Well-known member
Well, you're either doing everything you should carefully and correctly or you're damn lucky.
Things to avoid (and this is by far not a complete list):
No bowed wood; actually avoid crooked, twisted and cupped. Fix those flaws first
Having the cut off side larger, even square pieces can get sideways real quick
Not using a riving knife and/or guard
A guard and splitter will work very well on through cuts
Blade and fence not parallel (some even angle the fence 1º away from the blade), never closed at the far end.
Not using a zero clearance insert on any cut that is less than 1.5 times wider than the gap on the factory insert.
In fact, factory inserts wouldn't have a gap if saws didn't tilt.
Tilting: an whole 'nother subject.
I have all my fingers after using a TS for 60 years but one of them is bent at the first knuckle due to a pencil sized piece entering the knuckle and shattering it. Another is a little thin from the pad being removed. Not TS related. I also got pretty black and blue in the groin area, once again a thin molding that decided to go the other to way where I was standing. I don't stand there anymore.
Things to avoid (and this is by far not a complete list):
No bowed wood; actually avoid crooked, twisted and cupped. Fix those flaws first
Having the cut off side larger, even square pieces can get sideways real quick
Not using a riving knife and/or guard
A guard and splitter will work very well on through cuts
Blade and fence not parallel (some even angle the fence 1º away from the blade), never closed at the far end.
Not using a zero clearance insert on any cut that is less than 1.5 times wider than the gap on the factory insert.
In fact, factory inserts wouldn't have a gap if saws didn't tilt.
Tilting: an whole 'nother subject.
I have all my fingers after using a TS for 60 years but one of them is bent at the first knuckle due to a pencil sized piece entering the knuckle and shattering it. Another is a little thin from the pad being removed. Not TS related. I also got pretty black and blue in the groin area, once again a thin molding that decided to go the other to way where I was standing. I don't stand there anymore.
WillyBoy
Well-known member
If you want scary.......
There's a black and white DeWalt video out there somewhere, demonstrating some of the machine's wonderful features, The carriage is pulled all the way out on the arm, the blade is rotated and swiveled to the horizontal position so that it hangs beyond the edge of the table, and the operator pushes a piece of plywood past the blade, sliding it along the floor. sort of like a panel saw where the wood moves, not the blade. I looked for the video briefly but didn't find it. Some others with better google-foo may be able to find it.
There's a black and white DeWalt video out there somewhere, demonstrating some of the machine's wonderful features, The carriage is pulled all the way out on the arm, the blade is rotated and swiveled to the horizontal position so that it hangs beyond the edge of the table, and the operator pushes a piece of plywood past the blade, sliding it along the floor. sort of like a panel saw where the wood moves, not the blade. I looked for the video briefly but didn't find it. Some others with better google-foo may be able to find it.
One of the big reasons that I'm not overly concerned with RAS ripping kickback is the lack of power and blade size of most, especially Craftsman. Table saws generally start at 1/2hp on really old ones, but go up to 3 to 5 hp, even on 10" industrial level saws. That will push back at ya in a big way.
Craftsman RASes OTOH are generally under 1.5 hp, with the vast majority 1hp or under. And blade speed is motor speed, not belt driven over motor speed. Not a lot of power there to move bigger boards.
My first RAS was a little 9" CM with an aluminum arm. So little power that if you pinched the blade when ripping a green board it would just stop. Wouldn't even burn the kerf before locking up. I'm not even sure it had a HP label, but the amp draw worked out to about 3/4.
At one time I had a 14" Delta turret arm saw with a monster motor. 3hp dual voltage, one of two I've seen like that. The other was a brick saw. Took a 30A circuit to run it at the low volt setting. Intended for job site use where higher volts weren't available. Was trailer mounted when I bought it.
I've experienced kickback when cutting small pieces that I knew were risky but never have been hit by one. NEVER stand in line with the path of cuts like that. Off to one side, push stick etc.
Craftsman RASes OTOH are generally under 1.5 hp, with the vast majority 1hp or under. And blade speed is motor speed, not belt driven over motor speed. Not a lot of power there to move bigger boards.
My first RAS was a little 9" CM with an aluminum arm. So little power that if you pinched the blade when ripping a green board it would just stop. Wouldn't even burn the kerf before locking up. I'm not even sure it had a HP label, but the amp draw worked out to about 3/4.
At one time I had a 14" Delta turret arm saw with a monster motor. 3hp dual voltage, one of two I've seen like that. The other was a brick saw. Took a 30A circuit to run it at the low volt setting. Intended for job site use where higher volts weren't available. Was trailer mounted when I bought it.
I've experienced kickback when cutting small pieces that I knew were risky but never have been hit by one. NEVER stand in line with the path of cuts like that. Off to one side, push stick etc.
Zeke
Well-known member
There is some truth to that. ^^^ However, size is relevant. A half sheet of plywood being ripped poses a lot less risk than a 1 x 3. Even at 1/2HP that can become a spear powered by a rocket. It's in the blade inertia.
theoretical, 1.4HP. Depending on the ethics of the rater, probably between 3/4 and 1 hp. If there vac rater did it, 1/2.