Craftsman ratchet dis-assembly
- Thread starter KustomZ
- Start date
cruiser808
Well-known member
I can't remember which is which, but one type of this ratchet has a plate on the other side of the head and one type has a button that you press to remove the gear assembly. If it's the plate, simply push down and turn the plate. The assembly will fall out of the head. The push button is even easier. Just press the button and the assembly will fall out of the head. Hope this helps.
Tool Pants
Well-known member
MOPARHOUND!
Well-known member
I have a 1/4" here on my desk, been wrestling with it for 10 minutes per the diagram as well as trying different ideas.........none have worked to disassemble the ratchet.
MOPARHOUND!
Well-known member
Success! 
It's a pain, because you are pushing the button so hard in the opposite direction you want it to come out of the ratchet handle.
Finally incorporated the nut driving end of a small deep well socket on the male drive side while pressing hard on the quick release button, and it came apart.
Few drops of the Permatex Ultra Slick, and I'm liking the ratchet much better.
Made a point of having the reversing lever close to the neutral position during re-assembly, made it easier.
It's a pain, because you are pushing the button so hard in the opposite direction you want it to come out of the ratchet handle.
Finally incorporated the nut driving end of a small deep well socket on the male drive side while pressing hard on the quick release button, and it came apart.
Few drops of the Permatex Ultra Slick, and I'm liking the ratchet much better.
Made a point of having the reversing lever close to the neutral position during re-assembly, made it easier.
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All you have to is push until the center button clicks and locks down. Then just remove the drive assembly. To install insert drive assembly and give it a slight turn until it drops in. Then push the little button on the face of the ratchet to lock the drive in. Thanks for the help. It finally became clear as it was so easy that it was becoming difficult if that makes sense. Thanks all for the help!
cruiser808
Well-known member
KustomZ - I checked out these ratchet in detail and the Cman ratchet with the plate is the 43582. It is visually the same as the 43772 and has that quick disassembly concept, except that it has the less technical plate configuration. Still, it's the "drop the head" idea. These ratchets were made in Taiwan. If you want, I have the patent information.
This idea is the product of a quick field clean of the assembly and putting it back in service. The only problem is that the head is huge and other companies came up with the sealed head. But, from what I hear, these Cman ratchets are sort of collectables and can bring a good price on Ebay. Good luck and enjoy your ratchet.
This idea is the product of a quick field clean of the assembly and putting it back in service. The only problem is that the head is huge and other companies came up with the sealed head. But, from what I hear, these Cman ratchets are sort of collectables and can bring a good price on Ebay. Good luck and enjoy your ratchet.
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I have the same style ratchets in 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2 drive. I really like them and use them alot. I have never run into a problem with the size of the round head. Usually if it won't fit in a tight spot it's wrench time anyways.
JeepsAreBuilt
Well-known member
Tawain ? Really ? What years were these made ? I bought a 1/4" at a garage sale for a whopping 50 cents. I love it, I use it at work and one time the head assembly fell out, I thought it broke ! popped it back in and kept using it as nothing happened
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
i doubt you find much that stanley makes in the us anymore.
A few of their screwdrivers are made here with global materials.
lauver
Well-known member
KZ,
Do any of your ratchets have a series code stamped on them (like E or EE)?
Do they have a country of origin stamped on them (USA or Taiwan)?
What are the model numbers for each drive size?
Thanks!
The 3/8 drive is #43772 EE7. The 3/8 drive has no country origin stamped on it. I will have to look at the others in the morning and get the numbers.
lbgradwell
Well-known member
Yes please!
lauver
Well-known member
KZ,
Thanks for the info; the EE series code on your 3/8 drive ratchet pretty much confirms Stanley/NHT as the OEM.
I'm looking forward to the model numbers and series codes on your 1/4" and 1/2" drive ratchets.
Did you buy any of these ratchets new? If so, what year(s)?
lauver
Well-known member
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krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
they didn't tell you country of origin either did they?
My 1/4" ratchet is #43771 EE7 and my 1/2" ratchet is #43773 EE7. I bought the 1/4" and 1/2" new in a socket set I think it was mid 80's. Can't remember exactly I know I have had them a long time. My 3/8" messed up and got traded for a newer style lesser quality craftsman back when I didn't really know they could be rebuilt. I recently purchased another 3/8" ratchet from everyone's favorite auction site.
lauver
Well-known member
KustomZ,
Thanks for all the info and sorry for hijacking your thread with all this model number/series code stuff.
I hope you continue to enjoy your ratchet trio.
Even though Stanley and Sears no longer supports your ratchets, there is a good chance that you can find rebuild kits on ebay. Just keep your eyes open.
Thanks for all the info and sorry for hijacking your thread with all this model number/series code stuff.
I hope you continue to enjoy your ratchet trio.
Even though Stanley and Sears no longer supports your ratchets, there is a good chance that you can find rebuild kits on ebay. Just keep your eyes open.
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Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
All the Craftsman ratchets I have disassemble by squeezing the snap ring under the drive with needle nose, then the mechanism pushes out. More trouble to put them together. I have several different 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets of various vintage. Most recent purchases are two 1/4 drive fine tooth ratchets, round head, that are many years old, but brand new still with the Sears $9.99 price stickers on them. I got them for $5 each at a gun show. I use an Allen brand at work that is the exact same ratchet head with a different style handle (round and knurled) and also have a Seekonk 1/4 drive torque wrench with that same ratchet head in it.
Charles
Charles
First time posting. I'm trying to figure out the exact disassembly steps for a Craftsman ratchet I received from my grandfather. It's a 43785, the teardrop shaped kind. I've read through this thread and still can't figure out why it's not coming apart. The switch on the back came out easily enough and everything seems intact but the shaft and its plate are refusing to budge no matter how hard I squeeze the spring clip. On a diagram I found elsewhere, it shows the shaft and plate coming away and looking kind of like an 8 with the shaft in the larger part and the retaining clip's legs placed on top of the smaller part of the eight. Nothing I've tried seems to even be moving it so I'm unsure what to do at this point. I soaked it overnight in a bag of Liquid Wrench so it's certainly clean of debris and the clip id compressing all the way as far as I can tell. Any ideas?
Attachments
lbgradwell
Well-known member
Well, you're doing it right...
Can you simultaneously squeeze the clip while tapping the QR button from the other side? I can almost guarantee this will pop it out...
Can you simultaneously squeeze the clip while tapping the QR button from the other side? I can almost guarantee this will pop it out...
Hoot
Well-known member
You may have to get a small flat tip screwdriver and pry on the cover plate. Of course, you have to squeeze the spring clip at the same time. I find it works best if I push the spring clip all the way to one side and squeeze it with a set of needle nose (one jaw on the spring clip, one jaw on the outside of the case). Then use the other hand to pry up on the cover. Or, use one flat tip to push the clip close against the side of the case, and pry up on the cover with another flat tip. It's not the easiest thing to do because each hand is doing something different.
I have some versions of that ratchet where the cover pops right out, and some where that cover is almost press fit into place. Just be very patient prying the cover out and use a flat tip that will fit into the grove.
If someone else has a different method, hopefully they'll post it. If there's an easier method, I know I'd like to hear it....
I have some versions of that ratchet where the cover pops right out, and some where that cover is almost press fit into place. Just be very patient prying the cover out and use a flat tip that will fit into the grove.
If someone else has a different method, hopefully they'll post it. If there's an easier method, I know I'd like to hear it....
wantabemech
New member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2018
- Messages
- 2
I have the 3/8 version that has a skipping problem. Thanks to all the info herein, I hope to now be able to disassemble it, and see if I can restore it. I'll post my results.
seber
Well-known member
I use snap ring pliers to make it easier. Squeeze the ends tight together and lift the snap ring out by itself. After that you can tap from the other side.
wantabemech
New member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2018
- Messages
- 2
No luck getting the dr out of my 43772. the QR button will go in and lock, but the dr will not come out. tried the nut driver too. I noticed the qr button can be pushed in more, AFTER it locks. the small button on the stud side of the rachet seems to do its releasing of the "locked" position.
Maybe something is broken and jammed inside.
HELP
Maybe something is broken and jammed inside.
HELP
thesilverone
Well-known member
throw it in the trash
it's junk
it's junk
Slinger646
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2017
- Messages
- 213
Bringing it back from the dead. Searching for the patent
Found it.
https://patents.google.com/patent/US4762033A/en?inventor=Kirk+K.+Chow&sort=old
Found it.
https://patents.google.com/patent/US4762033A/en?inventor=Kirk+K.+Chow&sort=old
Salvador Regil
New member
El mío tiene el número 43773 y se compro en la tienda Sears de Perisur en Ciudad de México el invierno de 1988 y consistía el juego com
El juego de tres y dados milimetricos se compraron en 1988 y la matraca de 1/2 en su número de código solo marca 43773 sin más dígitos