I have been revitalizing an old 10” craftsman table saw and was wondering about a few more things. This is a reliable old machine that i want to update. I’m worried more about safety than restoring it to original. I was looking at original splitter/knife replacement, or a newer Shark guard PM66 ($300), or maybe just a new zero clearance with splitters. I was also considering a new SawStop jobsite system as an option and sell off the Craftsman…….I’d like to hear your thoughts - I love the idea of keeping this old faithful running but I also am concerned about safety. Any input is greatly appreciated.
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Craftsman table saw 113.27520 ideas
- Thread starter J6R
- Start date
Thanks for the reply, I agree I guess I should have asked which of those methods are safest in ranking.Only you can determine what your tolerance for risk is as it relates to old shop tools and the lack of included safety features. Old shop tools aren't for everybody.
whateg01
Well-known member
The safest woodworking tool is no woodworking tool. Even a mallet can smash fingers.
Of what you listed though, I would say the sawstop is the safest. That's not without a cost though. Aside from the up front cost of the saw which will be higher than a comparable saw without the brake cartridge, there is the cost of replacement cartridges. I see lots of people say, yeah but you didn't lose your finger so it is worth it. The cartridges do go off occasionally without touching them too. That can be from wood that has too much moisture. In theory, it could be from cutting material that has previously been cut on the laser cutter. At least half of the triggerings of the sawstop at the local makerspace occur for no apparent reason. That's not too say there was no reason, but neither we nor sawstop has been able to identify it. You pay for those cartridges too.
As said above, only you can determine how safe is safe enough. Likewise, only you can decide what your tolerance is for the cost of that safety.
Of what you listed though, I would say the sawstop is the safest. That's not without a cost though. Aside from the up front cost of the saw which will be higher than a comparable saw without the brake cartridge, there is the cost of replacement cartridges. I see lots of people say, yeah but you didn't lose your finger so it is worth it. The cartridges do go off occasionally without touching them too. That can be from wood that has too much moisture. In theory, it could be from cutting material that has previously been cut on the laser cutter. At least half of the triggerings of the sawstop at the local makerspace occur for no apparent reason. That's not too say there was no reason, but neither we nor sawstop has been able to identify it. You pay for those cartridges too.
As said above, only you can determine how safe is safe enough. Likewise, only you can decide what your tolerance is for the cost of that safety.
RTM
Well-known member
Once you get past the safety need questions, the feasibility will be next. Do you have the ability to make the brackets and mounting points to install an anti kickback splitter and pawls.
Some great ideas get shot down when reality kicks in.
Some great ideas get shot down when reality kicks in.
Zeus36
Well-known member
Put a sanding disk on it and use it for that. Hide the saw blade out of sight.I have been revitalizing an old 10” craftsman table saw and was wondering about a few more things. This is a reliable old machine that i want to update. I’m worried more about safety than restoring it to original. I was looking at original splitter/knife replacement, or a newer Shark guard PM66 ($300), or maybe just a new zero clearance with splitters. I was also considering a new SawStop jobsite system as an option and sell off the Craftsman…….I’d like to hear your thoughts - I love the idea of keeping this old faithful running but I also am concerned about safety. Any input is greatly appreciated.
My revitalized craftsman table saw, 113.27520 is up and running and I’m looking for some new advice. It seemed to slip/slow down while cutting some poplar the other day. I’m not sure if this could be the belt (old) slipping? the blade not being sharp enougn? Or perhaps the motor/blade not spinning fast enough - how can i determine or where should i start in trying to determine and fix this? Thanks for any adivce.
RTM
Well-known member
Could be slipping belt, or motor with not enough poop. Poplar is pretty soft IMO, so how thick were you cutting, crosscut or rip, etc May help people decipher.
Were you feeding too fast, new blade, right blade etc for the saw wood combo may help other owners decide where to look.
My 1990s 12” direct drive wouldn’t bog down w 8/4 white oak and a Freud ATBR on crosscut, so YMMV.
Were you feeding too fast, new blade, right blade etc for the saw wood combo may help other owners decide where to look.
My 1990s 12” direct drive wouldn’t bog down w 8/4 white oak and a Freud ATBR on crosscut, so YMMV.
RTM
Well-known member
Hard to do some those things while it’s cutting, IMO. Especially alone.
the blade should be able to cut a finger, while not running, just by rubbing against a tip, with no pinch / resin built up on the blade.
Optical tachometer is one way to test RPM, but you need a willing conspirator to get close enough to use it while you cut.
With mine being direct drive, I would not be familiar enough with the sound of belt slipping vs motor bogging.
the blade should be able to cut a finger, while not running, just by rubbing against a tip, with no pinch / resin built up on the blade.
Optical tachometer is one way to test RPM, but you need a willing conspirator to get close enough to use it while you cut.
With mine being direct drive, I would not be familiar enough with the sound of belt slipping vs motor bogging.