So the easy thing to do would be to scrap the saw and buy a new one, but I enjoy the challenge of keeping a good piece of equipment running and in service. I inherited this table saw (Craftsman Model#113.242700) a few years ago and in the last month the power switch no longer stops the blade. To clarify as soon as I plug it in, the motor fires up and doesn't stop regardless if the switch is flipped or not. Kind of a safety issue. I have taken the blade off to eliminate the major threat and I purchased a switch off Amazon that claimed to be a universal replacement, well good thing it wasn't too expensive because I was way off base. I assumed that plugging a new switch in would fix my problem, but I am coming to you to help me figure out if the switch is even the problem I should be fixing and if so, then where I can even go to get a replacement for it? The switch that came with the saw has, what I believe to be a 60 cycle capacitor as part of the power switch. I am pretty good about finding replacements on the web and I have not been able to locate anything that has this schematic or features. What do you recommend and where do I turn next?
Craftsman Table Saw (Model#113.242700) Issue
- Thread starter APederson
- Start date
catalytic
Well-known member
Re: Craftsman Table Saw Issue
Do you have a picture of the switch? I have rebuilt and worked on a great many woodworking and metalworking machines, but never on a Craftsman (although I did watch my dad cut small pieces on a nearly identical one as a kid). I'm sure we can figure out the problem. If it turns out that you need a replacement part and we can't find it, sign up at owwm.org and place a wanted ad in the BOYD section -- tons of people there collect and refurbish these Craftsman saws and I'd be shocked if someone doesn't have an exact replacement.
Do you have a picture of the switch? I have rebuilt and worked on a great many woodworking and metalworking machines, but never on a Craftsman (although I did watch my dad cut small pieces on a nearly identical one as a kid). I'm sure we can figure out the problem. If it turns out that you need a replacement part and we can't find it, sign up at owwm.org and place a wanted ad in the BOYD section -- tons of people there collect and refurbish these Craftsman saws and I'd be shocked if someone doesn't have an exact replacement.
Re: Craftsman Table Saw Issue
So I don't have a picture of it together, but these are the components that go into it. I tried to find an image online, but essentially, the capacitor sits inside a gray/black 4x4 box and the red switch is attached to it. Probably not as helpful as one would prefer.
So I don't have a picture of it together, but these are the components that go into it. I tried to find an image online, but essentially, the capacitor sits inside a gray/black 4x4 box and the red switch is attached to it. Probably not as helpful as one would prefer.
LB-1911
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Re: Craftsman Table Saw Issue
Source of diagram below and additional information that might be of use.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/motor-control-box-sears-tablesaw-14158/
Source of diagram below and additional information that might be of use.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/motor-control-box-sears-tablesaw-14158/
Attachments
gamescastspencer
Well-known member
Re: Craftsman Table Saw Issue
It most likely is the switch, they have a reputation to fail at random and let the motor run continually, sears used those style switches on everything, and lots are the module type where they are removable and a self contained unit. So you may be able to get a whole nother box
Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
It most likely is the switch, they have a reputation to fail at random and let the motor run continually, sears used those style switches on everything, and lots are the module type where they are removable and a self contained unit. So you may be able to get a whole nother box
Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
Larryjones
Well-known member
Re: Craftsman Table Saw Issue
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/62442/0009/113.html
If this switch doesn't fit the box you have, buy a box from the hardware store and a plain cover and cut it out so it works, might not be fancy but it will work. The cap is there to reduce arcing when the switch is turned on or off. You could also use an aftermarket magnetic switch. Just make do if it doesn't fit the original spot.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/62442/0009/113.html
If this switch doesn't fit the box you have, buy a box from the hardware store and a plain cover and cut it out so it works, might not be fancy but it will work. The cap is there to reduce arcing when the switch is turned on or off. You could also use an aftermarket magnetic switch. Just make do if it doesn't fit the original spot.
Any chance I could wire in this switch? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W17FRS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
