craftsman table saw

[nerraw117]

I have a 10" older model cast iron table saw. General consciences is its a descent table saw for light work. Perfect for me. I'm not doing hard work, often or detailed work. Unfortunately I keep hearing stay away from the direct drive models. well, as luck would have it thats what I have. Is it honestly that big of difference? mine is a 113.226680. I need to clean up the top and put a new diablo blade in it but seems to work fine for me.

 

[JVB]

The 113 model is actually a good budget saw. Highly recommended over *most* of the newer low dollar saws. Many people actually purchase them and upgrade the fence . Great options without spending 1000+ on a saw.


Unless you are in the market for a true cabinet or hybrid saw they are great for the money. Clean it up and run it.

 

[ghnl]

Add a quality blade and upgrade the fence.

I added a Biesemyer fence to my old Powermatic table saw. Every time I use that fence I am glad to have made that investment.

 

[nerraw117]

so its "ok" that it is direct drive and not belt drive? I know people have mentioned the belt drive is quiter, I dont run it enough for that to be a concern to me.

 

[ddawg16]

That craftsman is a decent table saw. Kinda hard to cut 4x8 sheets on...but it can be done.

I have the Ryobi table saw which is very similar. The Ryobi has a couple of features I like....mine has the router attachment so I can use the same rip fence.

I've never known Craftsman tools to be quiet.

As for direct drive....one advantage....no belt for sawdust to get into.

A good clean blade makes a world of difference. Spending $50 on one blade does not phase me. There is a place not too far from me that charges $25 to sharpen them. I personally think a resharpened blade cuts better than a new one.

 

[DFB]

RYOBI has a cast iron top 10" table saw?

Not familar with it

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

Well you have the saw and it is paid for and works, so that is something. As said above a good/new carbide blade makes all the difference. I would not over think it, just use. Unless your needing some additional capacity or whatnot. Unless your getting in to fine custom cabinetry or furniture building, I am sure it is up to the task.

 

[IowaDon]

The direct drive saws have a universal motor, where as the belt driven saws have an induction motor. The 113.xxxxxx saws that are generally regarded as worth upgrading are the belt driven version.

However, if you like the saw and it suits your needs, I say use it.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

[428PI]

I bought your model new about 35 years ago. It has served me well. A couple concerns over the belt drives. The table is not as deep as the belt drive models but it's cast iron with cast iron extensions (at least mine are). It's a very smooth saw. I used it as a sanding saw with a sandpaper disc on it when I had my brothers belt drive saw at my place. With a good blade it would be ok. My problem was not enough power in some situations but with perhaps a better blade would help. Make sure the fence is adjusted parallel to the blade etc. It is smoother than the belt drive if the belt drive still has the v belt instead of a link belt on it. Use it until the motor burns up.

 

[ddawg16]

RYOBI has a cast iron top 10" table saw?

Not familar with it

No....it's AL

 

[DFB]

No....it's AL

Gee I was looking online at photos of some Ryobi's the old style build made them look pretty stout

 

[ddawg16]

Mine looks like this.

I have since dumped the stand and built my own wood stand with storage underneath. I also have to fold down outfeed table for it

 

[ddawg16]

John, I had that same Ryobi, I bought it in a series of tries to get away from a cabinet saw. Sold my cabinet saw, bought a Hitachi 10" green machine contractor grade. Made exactly one cut on it, decided it was too unstable to use. I bought the Ryobi, and it was better, it's more stable. But, it drove me nuts doing adjustments on it. It's a versatile saw/router base in a fairly small package, but slow to use, and you have to be pretty deliberate to do precise work on it. I eventually just went back to a cabinet saw, and decided I'd live with the size and weight. The sliding miter is an interesting idea, but not quite right in execution due to being aluminum and too flimsy. And, hard/slow to adjust. It'd be interesting to see someone take the ideas from this saw, and put together a compact saw with quality equivalent to a Sawstop, Powermatic, or Unisaw.

I hear what you're saying.....for me, it's just occasional use....but it's served me well....yea, it takes a lot of dicking with for really precision cuts...but the small packaging along with the flexibility works for me. It's built all the cabinets and furniture in my house.

If I was doing it for a living? I'd have a big *** Delta with a table large enough so I could cut a 4x8 sheet of anything without any help.

 

[Stuart in MN]

My brother has had a Craftsman direct drive table saw for I'm guessing 40 years or more, it's still working great for him.

 

[Honest Bob]

Put a nice fence on it, align it up good and call it a day. Worst case the direct drive burns up and you go buy a belt driven 113 craftsman table saw on craigslist for under $100 (I paid $45 for mine) and move the fence over and add together all the extension wings if your feeling adventurous. A link belt and machined pulleys do wonders as well for the belt driven ones.

 

[nerraw117]

well I ended up replacing the blade and cleaning it up. I will be on the lookout for a better fence or a good deal on a belt driven model. btw I have the blade guard it is just removed.

 

[cowboy73]

The reason people say to stay away from the direct drive variety on the Craftsman table saws is the cost to repair it if the motor or gears/shaft fail. The belt drive system is superior by having pullies, belt and motor that can be sourced easily. The motor on a belt drive system can be upgraded to a stronger ie. higher HP motor without significant modifications. The direct drive variety cannot be as easily.

 

[seber]

Since the saws are no longer made and Sears is essentially gone, there is no repairing. Use it until it dies and scrap it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Unfortunately I keep hearing stay away from the direct drive models.

I think the big difference with the belt drive is you can get a bigger depth of cut. The belt drive is easy to change the motor if it burns out or you want a bigger motor.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Add a quality blade and upgrade the fence.

I added a Biesemyer fence ...

A Biesemeyer fence cost several time what a good used 10" Craftsman saw costs !