Craftsman Tool Box Lock Replacement

[Blaine B.]

Hello. I have a three tier Craftsman tool box that I no longer have the keys for. The locks are unlocked and I removed them yesterday so that I can take some photos. As I remember, each tier had a different key. Ideally, I would like to replace these with locks that can utilize the same key for all three locks.

I have not gone to Sears yet to see if they have a lock set that would work, but I did take some photos of the locks.

The bottom two tiers use the same style lock, but the top tier uses a different style lock that has a "hook" so that it can grab on to the lid of the box.

Can anyone help me find the appropriate lock set so that I can replace all three locks and have the same key for all three locks as well?

 

[29Sedanman]

I have bought a tool box lock kit from sears.com before that had all three locks and all keyed alike. Sorry, I dont recall the part number but you should be able to get what you need from them.

 

[c4cruiser]

Take them to a local locksmith. He should be able to cut a key for the one lock with the hook latch. Ask if he can re-key the other two locks to match the first one.

It could be that he could even find replacement lock assemblies that use the same key.

 

[mrjaw14]

so there's different lock kits depending on your toolbox. Go to the link below and you'll see. each kits costs the same though. I did this on my 3 tier box, but left the bottom box key'd differently...I don't remember why. But that clip you're worried about should come in the kit along with a lot of other plates that use a screw to attach to the back of one of the three locks they give you. Hope this helps

http://www.sears.com/search=craftsman tool box locks

 

[erty67]

yea, they sell a kit for like $15-20 that has all three locks.

 

[Blaine B.]

Thank you for all of the quick replies and suggestions. I will try the local Sears later this week before I head to a locksmith.

I did see the lock sets online at Sears/Craftsman but it was difficult to see if all three locks were the types that I needed. There are also a couple different sets.

I contacted Sears parts direct and they wanted over $50 for three locks delivered to me. Personally, that seemed a bit excessive, considering that the lock sets that I saw online were around $21. For some reason the Sears parts people would not tell me if the lock sets would work or not!

 

[mrjaw14]

go to the store where you can see them, maybe take yours in with you so you can match them up to what you have.

 

[Blaine B.]

I may go to Sears today during lunch. I'll report back with my findings.

 

[JACDes]

Locksmith and be done..

 

[Blaine B.]

Sears had a couple of different lock sets available. There was a set that matched the locks that I have for $19.99. Great!

And another question: Is there a way to connect the tiers of this tool box together?

The top two boxes may be connected, but I know the larger base box is not attached to the smaller boxes that sit on top of it, because I can slide them back and forth.

Is there a specifically made bracket that I can purchase, or will I have to get creative?

I noticed that there is a red bracket that almost resembles a screw driver holder. But I am not sure what it is for. I also thought that it could have been for attaching the boxes to the wall for those who live in areas that experience earth quakes. I don't have a photo of this red bracket yet...

My boxes look very similar to this, but have red drawers:

 

[NUTTSGT]

As far as attaching the boxes together, most guys will just pull drawers for access. Then drill and bolt the sections together.


Glad to see you get a set of matched locks. At one time it used to be easy to get locks matched to what you already had, (8095), so you didn't need to buy extra locks. The last time I attemtpted it after buying a few more boxes, it was a freaking uphill battle. The people at the other end of the phone could not comprehend, why I wanted new locks to match the existing locks I already had, if it was posssible and how to do it. I fired off a few emails to Sears Corp after that.

 

[Blaine B.]

I installed the locks in my tool box, and now all of the drawers are able to be locked.

I noticed that the Craftsman tool boxes are cheaply made. The rails, ball bearings, and drawers are very flexible and cheap. I can't imagine the Harbor Freight boxes being any worse. We have a workbench style Harbor Freight tool box at work and it isn't much different than the Craftsman. They are all made in China either way.

 

[NUTTSGT]

As you have noticed, the quality of the Cman boxes has gotten worse over the years. Do some reading and you'll find the HF 44" box has a decent reputation here at GJ.

 

[Blaine B.]

This Craftsman box is probably about 10 years old or slightly even older. Not real sure.

I would guess that it was purchased sometime around 2005.

 

[Blaine B.]

I would say that these Craftsman locks are just for the purpose of stopping others from borrowing your tools. It won't keep the drawers locked secure, even for an amateur thief! A very light deterrent.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I would say that these Craftsman locks are just for the purpose of stopping others from borrowing your tools. It won't keep the drawers locked secure, even for an amateur thief! A very light deterrent.

Most boxes can be pried open with a little deliberation. Like the old saying goes, a lock keeps an honest man honest.

Was the key set all keyed to the same number ?

EDIT, missed that, you already answered it. It does make it nice only needing one key for all the boxes.

 

[Blaine B.]

Now they are, yes. The old locks were all different though, but the keys have been missing for quite a few years now anyway.

I also confirmed that the three tiers are definitely not attached to each other in any way. They are just stacked with no brackets or bolts securing them together.

That is another project I will likely tackle when this box gets moved to a new location next summer. Then I can clear out the box once instead of twice. It is pretty full. 26" isn't all that large at all, it isn't enough, even for a backyard enthusiast such as myself!

PS - I also noticed that the TOP lock for the top tool box which secures the hinged lid is a universal style, where you can choose to use three different types of hooks for your application.

There is a small nut and lock washer. The nut never really gets tight though, and seems to be stripped out.

Would there be a way to secure this a better way? The original lock's hook was welded or brazed to the lock itself so it was very solid.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Now they are, yes. The old locks were all different though, but the keys have been missing for quite a few years now anyway.

I also confirmed that the three tiers are definitely not attached to each other in any way. They are just stacked with no brackets or bolts securing them together.

That is another project I will likely tackle when this box gets moved to a new location next summer. Then I can clear out the box once instead of twice. It is pretty full. 26" isn't all that large at all, it isn't enough, even for a backyard enthusiast such as myself!

If they sit in one spot and don't get rolled around, stacked is fine. But if you plan on rolling them around, I'd bolt them together. They are decent boxes to start out with, many of us have started with them but being a member here makes it so much easier to out grow.

 

[NUTTSGT]

PS - I also noticed that the TOP lock for the top tool box which secures the hinged lid is a universal style, where you can choose to use three different types of hooks for your application.

There is a small nut and lock washer. The nut never really gets tight though, and seems to be stripped out.

Would there be a way to secure this a better way? The original lock's hook was welded or brazed to the lock itself so it was very solid.

I'd probably try something simple first like a bead of clear RTV. If it doesn't work, it'll peel off easy enough to try something else.

 

[Blaine B.]

What about welding? I figure that would possibly melt the metal. I would rather something stronger was used besides silicone.

You can see the original "hook" there. Maybe it isn't welded, but pressed? Seems that they mushroomed something to hold the hook to the lock.

 

[Blaine B.]

IF anybody has any other suggestions for making the connection between the lock and "hook" on the new lock with multiple universal hooks to choose from, I'll be all ears! Relying on a teeny tiny nut that won't tighten to "snug" doesn't seem all that fantastic.

 

[Lassen Forge]

What about welding? I figure that would possibly melt the metal. I would rather something stronger was used besides silicone.

You can see the original "hook" there. Maybe it isn't welded, but pressed? Seems that they mushroomed something to hold the hook to the lock.

It's (for lack of a better term) "riveted" in place. Pressed works as well. But yeah, the lip of the hollow is deformed over the edge of the hook.

Tack welding? I dunno... I'm still voting on the "take it to a locksmith and have them match it up" camp... they do this for a living, and you can have all sorts of exotic keys made to secure your boxes.

As to connecting up your stack (if you really feel you need to)... take out the drawers, line everything up, and use short bolts and the widest fender washers you can to distribute the load... you may have to make spacers so you don't deform the top/bottom of your boxes, but if you really want them tied into each other as one, that's about the best ways hort of welding them together, and not lose the ability to take them back apart...

Saying this... Mine (2 stacks of Old school SR&Co) have been stacked, no bolts, for some 35 or so years now, and I have yet to have a problem with them... the weight of the tools hold them together pretty sufficiently. I've rolled them across floors, etc... never felt a need to tie them together as one; plus, I can reconfigure them as needed in the shop.

The one thing I *did* do to the bottom boxes was put modern thrust bearing/ball bearing casters under them - the old stock steel ones never worked well, and as they got older they started to fail miserably - it wasn't cheap, but easy to do, and I wish I had done it 30 years earlier!

 

[Blaine B.]

I don't think I will have to go to a locksmith because I now have three new locks with matching keys. I was just asking about the top lock that has the "hook," and the new locks come with a choice of hooks, so none of them are permanently attached to the lock like it was with the original lock.

 

[Blaine B.]

I grabbed some of the small nuts that thread on to these style locks, and some properly sized washers. Hopefully I can "beef up" these locks, compared to the clip style retention that Craftsman uses.

I will also look for alternatives to make the top lock stronger, with its universal hook and all.

 

[Blaine B.]

The nuts and washers that I now utilize to secure the locks in the tool box are much stronger than the cheap thin clips that come with the lock set.

I also reinforced the top lock with the hook by using a larger, tighter fitting nut that I could actually fully tighten, to secure the hook to the lock.

So I call that a success!

 

[timmyisme22]

Heads up on attaching the bodies together. You should have pre-drilled holes you can line up to pass bolts through to secure the boxes together. Just have to take some drawers out:
Top chest's bottom drawer
Both the top and bottom drawer of the middle chest
Top drawer of the bottom chest


Just feel around and check if you have the holes. If not, more work to do.
It may not be perfect, but it'll keep it from sliding off.


Mind you, like you said it's a 2005 or so model, so it might be different (as in no pre-drilled holes).

 

[Blaine B.]

I do not believe that there are any holes. I had the boxes partially disassembled for when I was replacing the locks and did not notice any holes.

Either way, this box will be getting moved sometime during the summer. I need to take everything out and give it a good cleaning, so that's when I will worry about bolting the sections together.

If there aren't holes, I'll drill the boxes for large washers and bolts.

The locks are working great, though. Not much security at all, but if nothing is broken into, nobody has been there.

 

[Cyberbear]

Take a look at Mc Master - Carr, as I recall they stocked many styles of tool box locks, keyed and combination.

 

[Blaine B.]

Thank you. I have already got my lock situation sorted out.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I know you said you already got the locks figured out, but just FYI, Sears carries replacement lock sets for Craftsman boxes. I redid mine a few years back when I got a bigger bottom box.

Tommy

 

[Blaine B.]

Thank you. I did end up purchasing the proper 3 lock set from my local Sears, with matching keys for all 3 locks.

 

[Gregg33]

I purchased a new 2000 series stack the other day and I want to change the locks. The top box's lock has a retaining clip like the older Waterloo/ Craftsman boxes have had for many years. But with the center chest and the bottom chest there is a different style retaining clip. I tried to use my phone to take a video of the inside of the box where the lock is and from what I can see the clip has 2 teeth or tabs that retain the lock. Are they spring loaded so I can use a pair of needle nose pliers to depress the tabs while I pull the lock out or do I need to remove the clip with a screwdriver somehow? Anybody have experience removing this type of lock and clip?

 

[Blaine B.]

I would have to see a picture to understand what type of retention system you are talking about. I have only ever seen the cheap clips or thin nuts. In fact I replaced the clips with thin nuts and large washers to increase the surface area with the new locks I bought almost 5 years ago.

 

[Gregg33]

I would have to see a picture to understand what type of retention system you are talking about. I have only ever seen the cheap clips or thin nuts. In fact I replaced the clips with thin nuts and large washers to increase the surface area with the new locks I bought almost 5 years ago.

It's really difficult to get a picture without removing a few of the drawers. But it's neither the common c-clip or a nut. It looks like a different type of clip with 2 tabs or teeth. Not sure if these tabs can be depressed or the whole clip can be removed. I was hoping somebody had already dealt with that style of retainer and could provide insight.

 

[Gregg33]

After a phone conservation with Karla from the Waterloo division of Craftsman (whom I ordered keyed alike replacement locks from), as well as some tinkering around I was able to remove the existing locks.

I tried several tools and methods to remove them, but what ended up working best was some bent nose needle nose pliers. I pryed the locks outwards using my fingernail while working the pliers from inside. I didn't have to remove any drawers (just opened up the top drawer) and removing each lock took less than a couple minutes of fidgeting. Just be careful when removing the lock, that the rod that connects the lock to the locking bar in the back of the box doesn't come out of the locking bar. I imagine if the rod falls out it could be a PITA to get it back into the locking bar!

I'm guessing to install the new locks, it's as simple as pushing the lock in, then the locking tabs release on the inside of the box and they are held in place. Much quicker install than a c-clip style retainer.

Here are some photos of the locks I removed, so everyone knows what I'm talking about.

 

[drspencer5]

Thought I would update this old thread with some current data. The Craftsman locksets are no longer available. I have the rod style that goes to the the locking "rack" in the back of the toolbox which hooks onto every drawer when locked. The replacement lock I used is

Westward TTLK003G.

Got it on Amazon for $25. It's available from Grainger but with an 8 week lead time. The other option was Snap-On but twice the price. This lockset comes with EIGHT keys.

 

[nadogail]

Good luck on getting any thing from Sear’s and Roebuck. Our local stores have been closed for years.