Craftsman USA wrenches with flank drive

[throwaway723]

I apologize in advance if I'm getting my terminology wrong, but I'm interested in a set of Craftsman USA double box end wrenches that have a flank drive design. To be honest, I don't even know if this is a design that exists on Craftsman box ends or (if it does) when it would have started. The double box end wrenches that I'm seeing for sale are all 12 point, and I'm not sure if any of the various 12 point date codes have a design that puts the load on the flanks of the fastener instead of the points. I'm seeing a lot of V and VA codes for sale. If I remember correctly, Craftsman sockets with V date codes don't have a flank drive design but G date codes do. So I'm wondering if maybe V coded box ends put the load on the points whereas VA codes put the load on the flank.
Thanks.

 

[vjquan]

From what I'm seeing from my combos, VV are not, but VA are.

 

[Lesserstore]

Danaher applied for a patent for flank drive style wrenches and sockets in 1991 and it was granted in 1992. V^ coded wrenches all have it, some VV does as well such as the full polish stubby combos, all upside down G sockets and late up right G sockets have it, and all G1, G2, G2D, and GK have it as well.

 

[throwaway723]

Thanks for checking yours. That's great to hear. I'll hold out for some VA (or should I say V^) wrench codes so that I get the flank drive style.

Would you also say that the flank drive style is preferable on 12 point box ends for preventing rounded fasteners?

 

[dchawk81]

Seems like everything is flank drive these days and it's definitely superior if you can't get or use a 6 point for the job.

I still prefer my 6 to break the fastener loose if it's tough or rusty though. Then switch to a 12 for faster removal once it's loose.

Unfortunately 6 points are a ***** to acquire anymore. People seem to think flank drive solves everything.

 

[vjquan]

I think the whole flank drive concept is overrated. Without it, yes it puts contact at the point. So what happens when that point starts to give and roll? It contacts further back, which is what flank is doing from the start. There's just not enough slop to do much damage. The fastener will come out with or without flank and I doubt you'll notice any discernable damage from using a wrench without flank.

 

[throwaway723]

Yeah, I have a set of 6-point combination wrenches and I prefer those when access allows. I only go for my 12-point first if the angle prevents me from getting a 6-point on it. But now I'm looking for double-end box wrenches because they have longer necks and more torque. And while I'd prefer 6 points with that extra torque, what I'm mostly finding is 12-point.

 

[throwaway723]

I think the whole flank drive concept is overrated. Without it, yes it puts contact at the point. So what happens when that point starts to give and roll? It contacts further back, which is what flank is doing from the start. There's just not enough slop to do much damage. The fastener will come out with or without flank and I doubt you'll notice any discernable damage from using a wrench without flank.

I never thought of it like that but I see what you're saying. Interesting take.

 

[Wakefield]

I think the whole flank drive concept is overrated. Without it, yes it puts contact at the point. So what happens when that point starts to give and roll? It contacts further back, which is what flank is doing from the start. There's just not enough slop to do much damage. The fastener will come out with or without flank and I doubt you'll notice any discernable damage from using a wrench without flank.

I believe having the slight radius in the corners reduces the tendency to crack,either making the socket or box end slightly stronger or allowing it to be thinner walled for better access.
Some Bonney sockets "Loc-Rite" had a sort of exaggerated flank drive look,the whole inside of the socket curved smoothly in and out. Almost like a crude spline drive (12 point) I notice that a Bonney 6 point impact socket I own at first appears to not be flank drive,rather it has the traditional sharp corners,but when looking at it with a magnification,I can see that there is a small radius there (curve instead of sharp) (the socket is not worn) So probably an attempt to improve crack resistance

 

[boom_bap]

This is an interesting read: https://www.kenoshanews.com/news/sn...cle_e29af9ac-5231-11ed-8b06-475a1be8b05f.html

There is a reason for flank drive and it was made for aerospace.

 

[Steve_P]

Flank drive makes sense and is definitely superior. But we got by for probably 100 years without it.

 

[boom_bap]

We got by without hard hats, safety glasses and respirators too

 

[xkrfan]

I'm attempting to fill out a 6 pt. metric set of G2's from 2004-2008 that have flank drive. I was wondering if there is any difference between regular G2 or what's called inverted G2 (which is what I have) or are they both the same thing. It seems that the two upper end companies that feature their flank drive technology these days, Snap On and Wright Tools, give the impression that their version is proprietary and superior. The rest of the features of the socket aside (quality of metal, durability, etc, aside) does anyone think their versions actually work better than say, Craftsman's version, which I read somewhere is called HeadLock.

 

[qqzj]

I'm attempting to fill out a 6 pt. metric set of G2's from 2004-2008 that have flank drive. I was wondering if there is any difference between regular G2 or what's called inverted G2 (which is what I have) or are they both the same thing. It seems that the two upper end companies that feature their flank drive technology these days, Snap On and Wright Tools, give the impression that their version is proprietary and superior. The rest of the features of the socket aside (quality of metal, durability, etc, aside) does anyone think their versions actually work better than say, Craftsman's version, which I read somewhere is called HeadLock.

Can you show a picture of the inverted G2? I cannot imagine the difference from a regular G2.

In general, for sockets, any modern sockets with a decent brand name work about the same. They all get the job done if you don't abuse it by using it beyond its designed capacity. I don't think higher price means anything other than higher price.

 

[xkrfan]

You can see the G2 stamping is inverted from the rest of the lettering.

 

[qqzj]

You can see the G2 stamping is inverted from the rest of the lettering.

Thanks for the help! But I am slow. I cannot see the difference. Can you put two identical one side by side?

 

[WAID]

You can see the G2 stamping is inverted from the rest of the lettering.

Do you have any non inverted ones? My main set is all inverted ones and the pics online in a quick check all seem to be the same way.

 

[xkrfan]

The only ones I have seen, as well as the ones I have, are all inverted G2.
I was able to find the missing ones I needed on ebay. The smaller metric sizes that were not in the most common Craftsman kit (talking 3/8 drive here) seem harder to find, ie, 6, 7, and 8mm (I don't have those but I do have them in 1/4 drive so I might give up the search on those unless I run into some at a flea market), as well as the larger sizes north of 19mm.

 

[tak1313]

I have some VV flares, and they have flank drive. Here are the pics (I also have full SAE and Metric sets of "regular" wrenches (open and closed ends with 6 point) in VA, and they are also flank).

Edit - sorry, for some reason when I try to upload the pics, it just shows blanks