Thanks, Scott.
Just to be clear, you mentioned that your HF set lasted four years, but you implied that your US Craftsman outlasted the HF, right?
With HF, do you mean the Pittsburgh, Pittsburgh Pro or Quinn brands?
How was the lead-in taper with those?
Ever use Husky, US or Chinese, sockets?
What's your experience with ratchet brands/models as to duration/durability?
Do you re-lube yours? If so, how often and with what lubricant(s)?
Thanks!
Must clarify, the HF sockets that lasted 4 years are deeps, my least used style. Might have been longer, but I know 100% it was at least 4 years. These were the multi-colored sets I linked to, they're like $15 with tax for a set of sockets. Looks like just plain "pittsburgh". That and pittsburgh-pro were all HF offered when I bought those. I think the HF would have lasted about 18months in shallow form, which is about what I get out of gear-wrench. The stuff I replace regularly is the shallow 3/8 in select sizes - few sockets in 13/14mm can last 24 months or more. Larger and less used sizes I've had since I got my set at 16, I've been working professionally since 20, 29 next week. Important factor, how long they last without wearing the flats out isn't the best metric to decide quality. I'd rather replace a socket monthly and never round a fastener. I find snap-on sockets crack easier than say USA craftsman, but they're so much thinner, clearing obstructions and brackets. Trade-offs. If I had consistent truck service, I'd own more snap-on. Since I don't, and I'm a tool junky, I experiment.
Craftsman USA were the sockets I've found to have any abnormal lead-in taper. Those and Armstrong I suppose. It's not hyper-critical, but when you use them all day long you notice little stuff. Imagine the lead-in nose on HF impact sockets, that's kinda the level of lead in my USA craftsman have. And if the fastener has a head height of 7mm, and you're using 1.5mm of that head height for non-force-producing lead in taper.... Toyota is good for that, relatively shallow bolt heads.
A co-worker has some husky stuff, works fine when I've used it. I'm of the opinion for non-professional use, bad tools don't really exist anymore outside of the $5 socket sets they sell at some autoparts stores. Everything is generally serviceable and of decent quality. I've used a Husky-china lobster claw wrench for my caliper twist in tool for years. How many fasteners per day do you really expect these students to be removing/installing?
As a general rule, unless abused or the cheapest of the cheap, all ratchets I've used are functional. Best ratchet per $ would probably be the GW 84 tooth IMO. Locking flex mechanism is crummy, but the ratchet mechanism itself is great. But it's all relative. These students aren't chasing the clock; it really doesn't matter if that bolt takes an extra 2 minutes to remove. Being that I see new tool users often abuse the hell out of ratchets; I'd get something local for warranty. (mainly because they only own short handles, then hammer on them)
I stopped with ratchet maintenance a few years ago. They get a dab of moly grease when they get rebuilt, or a blast of PB Blaster I drop them in coolant. I use mine everyday, my detent-balls don't stick, my mechanisms move freely. IME sitting in a drawer and getting used twice a year is when ratchets start to need care/feeding.
OBVIOUSLY YMMV. I buy much different stuff for home use, and recommend much different stuff for pro use. I don't care who makes it, at work, 40+ hours a week 50 week a year, I will wear it out. At home my tekton wrenches did just fine changing a water pump, struts, household stuff.
