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Craftsman vs Husky Ratchet and Socket Sets
- Thread starter giants
- Start date
Gotcha. I'd get a series of blow molded case sets (or similar layout), and a bag to carry them.
Inventory after every outing of the tools. As others said, unless you have areas to lock them up, they have to supply some level of tooling. Even a "basic" set of hand tools is a lot to lug around.
All japanese stuff, and modern domestics - run deep/shallow in 3/8 and 1/4, 3 and 6 inch extensions, and a universal. Spend the money here on ratchet variety, standard and flex head for both drive sizes. Deep/shallow 1/2 impact sockets, ratchet and breaker bar. 1/4 sae socket set, shallow only. Basic wrench set 7-24 in a roll pouch. 2 pairs of vice grips, 3 of your favorite pliers, 2 screwdrivers, ball-pein hammer, and 12 inch pry-bar. Magnet on a stick, flashlight, and a mirror. Small blow-molded case sets like the GW posted would probably be ideal, and a messenger bag to carry them. Likely 2 messenger bags with the side pockets swollen with tools.
Anecdote - friend has a 200,000 mile subaru, been sitting for a year, wants it back on the road as a beater. Runs crappy, check engine light codes galore, wants me to look at it. I typically bring zero hand tools to this kinda thing, diagnostic stuff only; he has basic hand tools. 2 laptop bags worth of stuff; for 30min worth of work tops. Probably would have fit better in 2 backpacks. Lotta people don't realize how much tooling is required just to do basic mechanical stuff.
Newbie question: by universal, do you mean universal joints, universal socket sets (spline sockets), or both?
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Newbie question: by universal, do you mean universal joints, universal socket sets (spline sockets), or both?
Sorry, universal joints. I don't usually care for "fits-X-different-bolts" type sockets. Fit is typically sloppy on all.
Thanks. Horrible Freight has a nice fiberglass five pack of ball pein hammers for $21: 8, 12, 16, 24, and 32 oz.
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-fiberglass-handle-ball-pein-hammer-set-39217.html
Instead of buying just two of the wooden handles would justify spending the extra couple bucks to get the set, I suppose.
The Tekton is $5 more and lacks the 32 oz size. Any other differences between the HF and Tekton that I'm not seeing?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMMI5L4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
But do I really need all of those sizes for DIY auto repair and basic home repair? Maybe one for the car, one for school, and the rest for home?
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-fiberglass-handle-ball-pein-hammer-set-39217.html
Instead of buying just two of the wooden handles would justify spending the extra couple bucks to get the set, I suppose.
The Tekton is $5 more and lacks the 32 oz size. Any other differences between the HF and Tekton that I'm not seeing?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMMI5L4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
But do I really need all of those sizes for DIY auto repair and basic home repair? Maybe one for the car, one for school, and the rest for home?
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Husky. We set our new builders/mechanics up with Husky sets when they start out. They hold up well to daily use and abuse, and their warranty has been hassle-free for the few times we’ve used it (usually our own fault).
Now, this isn’t to say that the new Craftsman is bad, it’s just that we have a HD close to our shop and their tools have been rock solid for us.
Now, this isn’t to say that the new Craftsman is bad, it’s just that we have a HD close to our shop and their tools have been rock solid for us.
Husky. We set our new builders/mechanics up with Husky sets when they start out. They hold up well to daily use and abuse, and their warranty has been hassle-free for the few times we’ve used it (usually our own fault).
When you warrantied them, did you bring the original receipts along?
Must clarify, the HF sockets that lasted 4 years are deeps, my least used style. Might have been longer, but I know 100% it was at least 4 years. These were the multi-colored sets I linked to, they're like $15 with tax for a set of sockets. Looks like just plain "pittsburgh". That and pittsburgh-pro were all HF offered when I bought those. I think the HF would have lasted about 18months in shallow form, which is about what I get out of gear-wrench. The stuff I replace regularly is the shallow 3/8 in select sizes - few sockets in 13/14mm can last 24 months or more. Larger and less used sizes I've had since I got my set at 16, I've been working professionally since 20, 29 next week. Important factor, how long they last without wearing the flats out isn't the best metric to decide quality. I'd rather replace a socket monthly and never round a fastener. I find snap-on sockets crack easier than say USA craftsman, but they're so much thinner, clearing obstructions and brackets. Trade-offs. If I had consistent truck service, I'd own more snap-on. Since I don't, and I'm a tool junky, I experiment.
Craftsman USA were the sockets I've found to have any abnormal lead-in taper. Those and Armstrong I suppose. It's not hyper-critical, but when you use them all day long you notice little stuff. Imagine the lead-in nose on HF impact sockets, that's kinda the level of lead in my USA craftsman have. And if the fastener has a head height of 7mm, and you're using 1.5mm of that head height for non-force-producing lead in taper.... Toyota is good for that, relatively shallow bolt heads.
A co-worker has some husky stuff, works fine when I've used it. I'm of the opinion for non-professional use, bad tools don't really exist anymore outside of the $5 socket sets they sell at some autoparts stores. Everything is generally serviceable and of decent quality. I've used a Husky-china lobster claw wrench for my caliper twist in tool for years. How many fasteners per day do you really expect these students to be removing/installing?
As a general rule, unless abused or the cheapest of the cheap, all ratchets I've used are functional. Best ratchet per $ would probably be the GW 84 tooth IMO. Locking flex mechanism is crummy, but the ratchet mechanism itself is great. But it's all relative. These students aren't chasing the clock; it really doesn't matter if that bolt takes an extra 2 minutes to remove. Being that I see new tool users often abuse the hell out of ratchets; I'd get something local for warranty. (mainly because they only own short handles, then hammer on them)
I stopped with ratchet maintenance a few years ago. They get a dab of moly grease when they get rebuilt, or a blast of PB Blaster I drop them in coolant. I use mine everyday, my detent-balls don't stick, my mechanisms move freely. IME sitting in a drawer and getting used twice a year is when ratchets start to need care/feeding.
OBVIOUSLY YMMV. I buy much different stuff for home use, and recommend much different stuff for pro use. I don't care who makes it, at work, 40+ hours a week 50 week a year, I will wear it out. At home my tekton wrenches did just fine changing a water pump, struts, household stuff.
Thanks. What's the model number for the GW 84 tooth, say with QR and without flex head?
FYI, I avoid mistreating my tools. That said, my philosophy is to have a margin of safety with tools, having them a little stronger/sturdier just in case and sh*t happens. Right now, I'm doing the junkyard trek for car repairs on my 20-30 year old daily drivers.
BrandoJames
Well-known member
I've got an older set of the kit ratchets, the ones they were including about 20 years back. I suspect what I'm going to say is largely true of the new ones as well..
I'm guessing your 20 year old Craftsman ratchets are either Danaher or Taiwan made. Either way, they're much better than the cheap kit ratchets now.
Thanks. Horrible Freight has a nice fiberglass five pack of ball pein hammers for $21: 8, 12, 16, 24, and 32 oz.
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-fiberglass-handle-ball-pein-hammer-set-39217.html
Instead of buying just two of the wooden handles would justify spending the extra couple bucks to get the set, I suppose.
The Tekton is $5 more and lacks the 32 oz size. Any other differences between the HF and Tekton that I'm not seeing?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMMI5L4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
But do I really need all of those sizes for DIY auto repair and basic home repair? Maybe one for the car, one for school, and the rest for home?
Use a HF voucher on those hammers and you got them for under 20bucks .
Can cheap out on ball peen but spend more on dead blows .
Don't buy anything too high end brand as it highly likely go missing .
Look at OEM ratchets and some of the sockets.
Lot of really good mid range stuff around these days and this time of year lot of sales so better value .
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Thanks. What's the model number for the GW 84 tooth, say with QR and without flex head?
FYI, I avoid mistreating my tools. That said, my philosophy is to have a margin of safety with tools, having them a little stronger/sturdier just in case and sh*t happens. Right now, I'm doing the junkyard trek for car repairs on my 20-30 year old daily drivers.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3IGM7U/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Basically just avoid the 120xp dual pawl versions. Thicker heads and more back-drag. They come in lots of different sets/singles/kits. Not sure if they make a QR version. I really like the 1/4 in this set, good length.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Use a HF voucher on those hammers and you got them for under 20bucks .
Can cheap out on ball peen but spend more on dead blows .
Don't buy anything too high end brand as it highly likely go missing .
Look at OEM ratchets and some of the sockets.
Lot of really good mid range stuff around these days and this time of year lot of sales so better value .
I always forget about OEM. Their satin sockets are very nice looking. And you're right, mid-range tools have never been better or cost less.
They're catching up in the variety dept too.
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I'm guessing your 20 year old Craftsman ratchets are either Danaher or Taiwan made. Either way, they're much better than the cheap kit ratchets now.
From what I've seen they seem no better or worse. Mine are Danher USA but at least the new ones at Lowes seem to have a metal selector vs plastic.
Either way, I stand by my view that they are "sufficient" the same way a Corolla is "sufficient" vs a Lexus. Both can drive cross country but which would you rather ride in?
From what I've seen they seem no better or worse. Mine are Danher USA but at least the new ones at Lowes seem to have a metal selector vs plastic.
Either way, I stand by my view that they are "sufficient" the same way a Corolla is "sufficient" vs a Lexus. Both can drive cross country but which would you rather ride in?
I always found standard Craftsman ratchets crude feeling. I don’t mind the design in stuff I use less like 3/4 inch or flex head, but for a standard daily ratchet I don’t like the feel. I probably have dozens of them.
They have had so many different ones. The pro series, thin head, knurled, etc. The ones that come in the new Sears “Ultimate Collection” sets are actually quite nice.
When you warrantied them, did you bring the original receipts along?
Nope, just the broken items. I wouldn’t be surprised if some stores tried to hassle you, but their website says “If your Husky hand tool ever fails, bring it back and we will replace it free.”
AreYaSerious
Well-known member
I think you would be better off getting Tekton.
Nope, just the broken items. I wouldn’t be surprised if some stores tried to hassle you, but their website says “If your Husky hand tool ever fails, bring it back and we will replace it free.”
I was given a few bad Husky ratchets including one just plain missing parts. I went to HD and asked about warranty and said that I don't expect them to say yes but I wanted to check just in case. I was given new replacements (same models). So I would say they stood behind the warranty and then some.
BrandoJames
Well-known member
From what I've seen they seem no better or worse. Mine are Danher USA but at least the new ones at Lowes seem to have a metal selector vs plastic. Either way, I stand by my view that they are "sufficient" the same way a Corolla is "sufficient" vs a Lexus. Both can drive cross country but which would you rather ride in?
The Craftsman set ratchet absolutely does not have a metal selector. I've got it in my hand now. It's the Craftsman 44811, a ten buck ratchet with a plastic selector. I'm sure there are better Chinese Craftsman "stand alone" 3/8" ratchets that you can buy at Sears/Lowes/Ace.
My wife's daily driver is a 2010 Corolla which has been bullet proof for 10 years. I'd like to see someone use the Craftsman 44811 as a "daily ratchet" for 10 years. Even a weekend DIYer (like me) wouldn't use that ratchet.
The Craftsman set ratchet absolutely does not have a metal selector. I've got it in my hand now. It's the Craftsman 44811, a ten buck ratchet with a plastic selector. I'm sure there are better Chinese Craftsman "stand alone" 3/8" ratchets that you can buy at Sears/Lowes/Ace.
My wife's daily driver is a 2010 Corolla which has been bullet proof for 10 years. I'd like to see someone use the Craftsman 44811 as a "daily ratchet" for 10 years. Even a weekend DIYer (like me) wouldn't use that ratchet.
I think the newer Stanley ones do have a metal selector. I used my Cman ratchet for 20 with no issues. I did clean it which helped avoid problems. I did break my 1/4 drive but that's not shocking since I was using it to break a 14mm bolt with a cheater bar.
Either way, unless abused or dirty on there inside, the basic RP ratchet is "sufficient" but not nice to use. Since getting a few more ratchets I almost never used mine. They work as well as they every did but my other ratchets are just nicer.
Having driven a Corolla cross country it's not as nice as a Lexus even if just as reliable.
BrandoJames
Well-known member
Either way, unless abused or dirty on there inside, the basic RP ratchet is "sufficient" but not nice to use
As stated earlier, when I gave my son the Craftsman Mechanic's Set, I replaced the 44811 ratchet with his Grandpa's awesome Craftsman 3/8" tri-wing ratchet. The tri-wing is way more solid and longer. Plus the old man could fix anything, so the tri-wing has some mojo in it.
The only reason stopping me from throwing the flimsy C-man 44811 in the trash: for a 3/8" ratchet, it's got a really small footprint. It's 6" in length and quite narrow at 1/2" across the shaft; the ratchet head is barely 1" in diameter. It's like a 3/8" stubby, which could be used instead of a 1/4" ratchet for tight clearances with small fasteners. But for any fastener 12mm or above, I'd have zero confidence in the 44811.
I always forget about OEM. Their satin sockets are very nice looking. And you're right, mid-range tools have never been better or cost less.
They're catching up in the variety dept too.
Locally, there is a brick and mortar store that is (in effect) an OEM corporate store, and has pretty much the full line in stock. The ratchets are just, meh. The drive ends are thick and wide, the mechanisms are 36t, and they don't have a variety of options beyond basic ratchets and a few flex heads (which I don't recall being locking). They seem well made, but there are far better options out there for similar money - GW 84t, Tekton, probably Pittsburgh...
The sockets on the other hand... I have the stubby 3/8dr metric and a complete set of E-Torx, plus some miscellaneous sockets. The sockets seem well made and have held up great so far. The finish is uniform, the knurling is a great feature, and they offer a large selection with no skips - they cover a larger range of sizes than GW. The deep well sockets are reduced in size all the way to the drive end, and I would have preferred those over my GW sets. My only criticism is that the size stampings are a bit small for my liking, but otherwise they are well thought out. Do you have a preference/need for 12pt - other than the stubbies, their full range is 6pt iirc.
If I had it to do all over again, I would seriously consider filling my box with the OEM socket sets instead of my GW sets. But, I get such a good deal on GW through work, it made my decision easy.