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Craftsman (Wilde) prybars rusting

erty67

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Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and any recommendations. I bought the $20 3pc pry bar set 6 months back. I keep them in my tool box out in the shed, along with the rest of my tools. I went to use one yesterday and all 3 of them are covered in rust. None of my other tools have had a rust issue. Thoughts on this? :headscrat
 
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gdocktor3

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I think they're made out of similar raw material as impact sockets. That could be the reason. Most of my pry bars are discolored and rusty. If they're just sitting out in the shed, it's not a big deal, but if they're in a tool box in the shed with other tools, be careful. It will eventually cause the other stuff to rust. You can hit them quick with a wire brush or Brillo pad and spray paint them with some rust oleum.

You can see my pry bars in the picture are discolored a bit. I use vci paper and camphor blocks in the drawers to help prevent it. They haven't gotten any worse since using them.
 

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erty67

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I think they're made out of similar raw material as impact sockets. That could be the reason. Most of my pry bars are discolored and rusty. If they're just sitting out in the shed, it's not a big deal, but if they're in a tool box in the shed with other tools, be careful. It will eventually cause the other stuff to rust. You can hit them quick with a wire brush or Brillo pad and spray paint them with some rust oleum.

You can see my pry bars in the picture are discolored a bit. I use vci paper and camphor blocks in the drawers to help prevent it. They haven't gotten any worse since using them.

I did take them out of the box. I'll try some oil on them if that doesn't help I'll shot them with some paint. it's interesting that my impacts don't rust.
 

gdocktor3

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I did take them out of the box. I'll try some oil on them if that doesn't help I'll shot them with some paint. it's interesting that my impacts don't rust.

It's weird because my sunex impacts, which are cheaper and considered a step down from snap on, aren't rusted or discolored, but my snap on's are.
 

Wes J

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Black oxide is sort of like chrome plating. The Chinese are free to use all the really nasty chemicals that kill cute animals and have long since been banned here in the US. As a result, their ****** tools actually look better than the superior US made stuff. Of course that is a big ego boost for all the folks looking to justify their communist tools.

Black oxide is just just a form of rust. It increases the surface area of metal and allows it to hold oil. The oil keeps the metal from rusting. Periodically you have to put some more oil on them.

The best way to prevent rust is to use them.
 

BK13

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I just make sure to wipe mine down with WD40 after I use 'em...


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jrobb316

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Black oxide is sort of like chrome plating. The Chinese are free to use all the really nasty chemicals that kill cute animals and have long since been banned here in the US. As a result, their ****** tools actually look better than the superior US made stuff. Of course that is a big ego boost for all the folks looking to justify their communist tools.

Black oxide is just just a form of rust. It increases the surface area of metal and allows it to hold oil. The oil keeps the metal from rusting. Periodically you have to put some more oil on them.

The best way to prevent rust is to use them.

Couldn't have been said better. :thumbup:
 

Philbert

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Yep, simple old much maligned WD-40 works for me. No rust on my stuff.
However I do live in Arizona, much drier here than other places. If I lived
Some plase else i'd probably use a different product.
 

PureLeaf

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Object conservator here, most of my work was in iron corrosion.

If you're not using the pry bars frequently, you might see if you can purchase 'renaissance wax', a microcrystalline wax. Often available at local hardware stores, and definitely on the internet. Its often used in museum environments to lightly coat objects like swords to act as a moisture barrier. No moisture - no electrochemical corrosion cycle.
 

Tatsuya

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My thoughts are that you bought three decent quality pry bars at a good price and the rust hasn't changed that. Sand them and oil them before you put them away, or deal with the rust. Either way they still work, don't they?
 
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erty67

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:rolleyes: Ok, guys. I get it. I don't use them enough. It was a simple question. I have a bunch of pry bars and probably didn't need them as much as I wanted them. I bought them for $20 after seeing the Hot Deals thread and threw them in the draw. I have used them a couple times at home and just noticed the rusting. I never said they weren't good quality anymore. I didn't say they no longer worked. I guess I just wanted to know if this was common. Let me go use them and lube them now so I can meet the GJ approval. :willy_nil


to those that gave useful input, thank you.
 

gdocktor3

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Not everyone on here wrenches for a living. Pry bars are some of my least used tools. I hate when people say "They're tools. They're meant to get rusty." "You don't use them enough." Well, that's pretty obvious. I'm not a mechanic and I don't make money with tools. I paid a lot of money for quality stuff and want them to last.
 

winlinmac

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And yet, I see some owning over 15 or so pry bars (various shapes and sizes). All that's really missing in the picture is a glass enclosed box, lol :lol:

Not everyone on here wrenches for a living. Pry bars are some of my least used tools. I hate when people say "They're tools. They're meant to get rusty." "You don't use them enough." Well, that's pretty obvious. I'm not a mechanic and I don't make money with tools. I paid a lot of money for quality stuff and want them to last.
 

gdocktor3

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And yet, I see some owning over 15 or so pry bars (various shapes and sizes). All that's really missing in the picture is a glass enclosed box, lol :lol:

Hey it's like guns I guess. 10 gauge, 12 gauge, 16 gauge, 20 gauge, 410 gauge. You don't use them every day, but each has a purpose and comes in handy when its needed. And you sure are glad you have it when the time comes.
 

Skin

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Not everyone on here wrenches for a living. Pry bars are some of my least used tools. I hate when people say "They're tools. They're meant to get rusty." "You don't use them enough." Well, that's pretty obvious. I'm not a mechanic and I don't make money with tools. I paid a lot of money for quality stuff and want them to last.

Except these Pry bars are about the cheapest you can get, USA or foreign, and rust doesn't effect them one bit.
 
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erty67

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Except these Pry bars are about the cheapest you can get, USA or foreign, and rust doesn't effect them one bit.
Whoever said it did???

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Skin

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Whoever said it did???

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Read the last line of what I quoted. "want them to last" implies to me that light cosmetic surface rust on bare steel prematurely ruins a tool.
 
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T45

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but the can mess up you're other tools by being rust magnets...

wipe em down with oil/cloth next time you store them

everyday oil covered tools aree a hassle but not pry bars ...they have handles
 

SMKS

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As already noted, they have a simple black oxide coating. That type of coating isn't super rust resistant in some cases.

Ignore it or oil them to prevent future rust.
 

gdocktor3

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Except these Pry bars are about the cheapest you can get, USA or foreign, and rust doesn't effect them one bit.

What I said was just a general, overall statement based on all my tools. All of my pry bars are Mac, Mayhew and Snap On. I don't own any of the "cheapest you can get" Wilde/Craftsman pry bars. Of course the rust doesn't affect them, but it did affect my other tools in the same drawer. Not to worry, I have since put them in a locking pry bar box I had. Problem averted.
 
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pendragon1998

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Object conservator here, most of my work was in iron corrosion.

If you're not using the pry bars frequently, you might see if you can purchase 'renaissance wax', a microcrystalline wax. Often available at local hardware stores, and definitely on the internet. Its often used in museum environments to lightly coat objects like swords to act as a moisture barrier. No moisture - no electrochemical corrosion cycle.

For pry bars, cheaper Johnson's wax is a better alternative to Renaissance wax
 

PureLeaf

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For pry bars, cheaper Johnson's wax is a better alternative to Renaissance wax

I'm not familiar with Johnson's wax, I see small cans of Renaissance wax available for around 5 dollars. Renaissance wax has shown to be a class A feller material, with good reversibility in white spirit. Obviously how reversible any wax is, is debatable. But with a good solid surface, a paper towel in some stoddard solvent, it should wipe right off.

If you wanted to try rejuvenating the black oxide coating on your tools you could buy some tannic acid, make up a solution of 15% Weight to volume solution with 50% water, 50% ethanol (so it evaporates more quickly). Find an old toothbrush you never want use again, wear gloves (its messy). And brush that mixture across your items. Then consider applying a coating over it like Paraloid/Acryloid B72 or Cellulose nitrate if you'll encounter environments above 60 degrees centigrade.

That all being said. Tannic acid and black oxide have not been shown to be particularly effective coatings in standard 50% RH environments against continued corrosion prevention. If you were trying to restore a tool to its original black oxide appearance, this would do it though.
 

619DioFan

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My craftsman pry bars also developed surface rust. I sprayed them with a rust neutralizer and let that set up for a day then sprayed them with rustoleum professional series black paint. this has made a big difference in the rust problem. these are bars that hang off my shop cart and are exposed to the elements. the bars in my box don't seem to be affected.
 

winlinmac

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I'd go with WD40. Use a wire brush to get rid of the rust as much as possible. Chances are, with WD40, you'll be able to get rid of all the rust depending upon how soon you intervene. ;)
 

zendriver

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Simple me, I did not know life had to be so difficult.

Never owned anything "black oxide", that did not have the tendency to get at least some surface rust, if exposed.

Wipe them all off with WD40 or other light oil, after use and the problem is non existent.

Interesting (and telling) how some had to beat up the OP, verses just advising him to coat his tools.

Maybe it's just me, but instead of expecting surface perfection (then bitching if it's not achieved), I just wipe down all of my metal tools after use.
 
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thebeekeeper1

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OP, you may or may not find this useful, but a permanent fix that is fairly easy, though takes a little time, is to soak them in EvapoRust in order to remove the oxide finish, then paint them with spray paint. Prime first, of course, and you will have a nice finish that is as rust resistant as possible. :)
 

gdocktor3

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Here's a picture of an old box wrench I picked up. It was completely covered in rust. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder and a large wire brush to clean it all off. Then I primed it with pitbull rattle can primer and finished it with a coat of either duplicolor or rustoleum rattle can truck bed coating. As you can see I didn't thickly coat the box end with the bed liner so it still fits the fastener properly, but the rest of the wrench has a nice textured, grippy feel. I've done this to no less than 7-8 wrenches and they all work perfectly fine. There's no reason it wouldn't work on pry bars too.
 

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erty67

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I dont need anything guys. I appreciate the feedback. I was mainly just looking to see if this was common on these pry bars, since i know i lot of members have them, and what oil work best to protect them. I take pride in my tools and try to keep them in best condition. No, rust will not stop me from using them. I just found it odd they got so rusty so quickly. Didn't mean to turn this into such a debate.

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pendragon1998

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I'm not familiar with Johnson's wax, I see small cans of Renaissance wax available for around 5 dollars. Renaissance wax has shown to be a class A feller material, with good reversibility in white spirit. Obviously how reversible any wax is, is debatable. But with a good solid surface, a paper towel in some stoddard solvent, it should wipe right off.

If you wanted to try rejuvenating the black oxide coating on your tools you could buy some tannic acid, make up a solution of 15% Weight to volume solution with 50% water, 50% ethanol (so it evaporates more quickly). Find an old toothbrush you never want use again, wear gloves (its messy). And brush that mixture across your items. Then consider applying a coating over it like Paraloid/Acryloid B72 or Cellulose nitrate if you'll encounter environments above 60 degrees centigrade.

That all being said. Tannic acid and black oxide have not been shown to be particularly effective coatings in standard 50% RH environments against continued corrosion prevention. If you were trying to restore a tool to its original black oxide appearance, this would do it though.

Johnson's is something like $7 for a pretty big tub. I've heard good things about Renaissance wax. I was just saying that for sprucing up a modern $7 pry bar that is going to be beat on, there's no need for archival techniques or materials.
 

NUTTSGT

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I dont need anything guys. I appreciate the feedback. I was mainly just looking to see if this was common on these pry bars, since i know i lot of members have them, and what oil work best to protect them. I take pride in my tools and try to keep them in best condition. No, rust will not stop me from using them. I just found it odd they got so rusty so quickly. Didn't mean to turn this into such a debate.

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They should have had a very light oil mist or something similar from the factory. Typical production line problems could have created some prybars getting too much while others have very little or none.

Clean the rust, wipe them down and you'll be good. I'll have to look at mine to see what they look like sitting in the tool box.
 

AA/FC

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If a 30 second wipedown with paste wax will keep your tool from rusting, I'd say that falls under 'being responsible for your tools'.

Hey, whatever man.... To each his own!

I'd say that falls under a whole new lever of tool polishing. lol.

I can honestly say that I've never had any of my tools rust on me.... unless accidentally left outside in the rain/sleet/snow/salt. And if I ever did have a rust problem, I would have never thought about using wax. I use oil to prevent rust on my firearms, maybe I should use wax inste..... nevermind. lol :D
 

AA/FC

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Dang only 30 seconds to wax your tool? That's way too fast. Ya might be missing out for all that work.

I think you quoted the wrong guy.... I neve said I waxed my tool(s). :lol:
 
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