craftsmen jack failures are always conveniant

[Intel]

Last craftsman jack I had served me well for about 5-6 years. It stopped lifting last winter right in the middle of a project. Went out and bought a new one

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950168000P?keyword=jack

Been using it fairly regularly to lift a lowered 300zx. Had the front up on jack stands when I went to go lift the rear. Start pumping and it goes up pretty well. Then it stops going up and I notice a pool of magic fluid (hydraulic) puddling around the jack. Well my day is ruined as I don't want to go buy another crapsman jack. And I need to lift the rear end up to pull the subframe. Day is lost so I ordered a Norco service jack for 250 bucks. Here is hoping it lasts me at least 10 years. If only my grandpa's old jack could lift past 15 inches otherwise I would be using that .

 

[slowcamaro]

I'm not sure if that jack is built the same way as my all aluminum version, but I thought this might be worth mentioning. As I fixed my craftsman (for now at least) with a 10 cent o-ring.

Here is a copy and paste from the instructions I found.


"Fortunately, for many of us who own this jack, this leak can be fixed relatively easily. It appears that the pump piston (the one that the handle actuates, not the ram) is the culprit, but the leak actually comes from the pressure release valve (the one that is opened when you turn the handle to let the jack down). You will need an 11mm Allen wrench and a 12mm socket. Unbolt the jack handle from the frame with the 11mm Allen wrench (note that 1 side is left hand thread, the other side is normal). With the handle out of the way, remove the 12mm head bolt that holds the retaining tab for the pressure release valve U-joint. Then, unscrew the PRV all the way and pull it out, but be careful, as some fluid will spray out when you remove it, and there is a single ball bearing inside that may also shoot out. There is a small rubber O-ring around the PRV that needs to be replaced, so I used one that was just a little larger and fit more snugly in the bore. Oil the O-ring a bit and reassemble everything.

So far, so good. Cleaning up the puddle under the jack has been a daily task recently, but it's been together for 24 hours, with a fresh fill of jack fluid, and the floor is dry so far. Let's hope that it holds up."


"Thanks. So far so good. The sizes were a bit off though. My allen heads required a 10mm wrench and the retaining tab a 10mm socket. I found the O-ring at Advance Auto Parts. Part Number 64482.1 (8mm x 12mm x 2mm).

I left the weight of my car on the jack for 15 minutes and didn't notice any weeping or leakage."

 

[Intel]

Will have to look into this if I cant get a replacement/refund. honestly I just reached the point with these things where I felt a better one would require less hassle.

I know these jacks are rebuildable but it would make more sense in my mind to rebuild if it didn't fail in 9 months. I don't want to constantly be rebuilding these things.

 

[jkeyser14]

I wish I could find a low profile jack for my 300zx that was long enough to actually get to the cross member without first having to drive the car onto 2x4's.

 

[thesilverone]

I've owned an AFF 200T for 5 years now and it has worked flawlessly.

 

[Intel]

I wish I could find a low profile jack for my 300zx that was long enough to actually get to the cross member without first having to drive the car onto 2x4's.

At stock ride height I didn't need 2x4's. Now that it is lowered and with the ledge in my garage I just assumed I would continue to use my 2x6 ramps. Especially since the car will finally be getting lowered another inch or so with my new camber arms to keep things close to spec. .

The AFF200T was one of the others I looked at, hope I don't regret my choice.

 

[Hiball]

Here is a copy and paste from the instructions I found.


"Fortunately, for many of us who own this jack, this leak can be fixed relatively easily. It appears that the pump piston (the one that the handle actuates, not the ram) is the culprit, but the leak actually comes from the pressure release valve (the one that is opened when you turn the handle to let the jack down). You will need an 11mm Allen wrench and a 12mm socket. Unbolt the jack handle from the frame with the 11mm Allen wrench (note that 1 side is left hand thread, the other side is normal). With the handle out of the way, remove the 12mm head bolt that holds the retaining tab for the pressure release valve U-joint. Then, unscrew the PRV all the way and pull it out, but be careful, as some fluid will spray out when you remove it, and there is a single ball bearing inside that may also shoot out. There is a small rubber O-ring around the PRV that needs to be replaced, so I used one that was just a little larger and fit more snugly in the bore. Oil the O-ring a bit and reassemble everything.

I can almost gurantee the majority of your leaks is coming from the PUMP, As stated. Secondly I have NEVER seen a Left handed threaded bolt on a Jack, If your working with the bolt in front of you it is Standard, If your on the other side of the jack working over the frame it might seem left hand but its you not the bolt. The oring on the Release valve shaft is not real common area for any serious leakage, mainly because it doesnt hold any pressure to speak of. I commend you guys for taking the time to fix your own problems, Its much cheaper than just junking the jack and buying a NEW one.

Will have to look into this if I cant get a replacement/refund. honestly I just reached the point with these things where I felt a better one would require less hassle.

I know these jacks are rebuildable but it would make more sense in my mind to rebuild if it didn't fail in 9 months. I don't want to constantly be rebuilding these things.

These jacks require maintenance to keep them in tip top shape, I have a Complete teardown of your proto typical Import "Stickyd" at the top of the General Tool forum.

 

[slowcamaro]

I can almost gurantee the majority of your leaks is coming from the PUMP, As stated. Secondly I have NEVER seen a Left handed threaded bolt on a Jack, If your working with the bolt in front of you it is Standard, If your on the other side of the jack working over the frame it might seem left hand but its you not the bolt. The oring on the Release valve shaft is not real common area for any serious leakage, mainly because it doesnt hold any pressure to speak of. I commend you guys for taking the time to fix your own problems, Its much cheaper than just junking the jack and buying a NEW one.



These jacks require maintenance to keep them in tip top shape, I have a Complete teardown of your proto typical Import "Stickyd" at the top of the General Tool forum.

If its of any use the craftsman part number is #50240. As stated replacing the O-ring on mine solved the issue I was having at least temporarily. As far as the left handed threads, its been a few months now since I tore into the jack and can't really say for certain if they were or were not. If you Google the craftsman part number you will soon find out just how many people are having issues with this model and models similar to it. But you're the jackman and have probably had a few of them in your hands already. I'll be sure to let you know if she fails on me again.

http://www.mysears.com/Craftsman-1-5-ton-Jack-reviews#product_sort_filter

Sorry if i've hijacked the thread.

 

[Intel]

These jacks require maintenance to keep them in tip top shape, I have a Complete teardown of your proto typical Import "Stickyd" at the top of the General Tool forum.

Yeah I already looked at that guide and will probably use it if it comes to that. Just never had this issue with the much older cman jacks I have used. Just clean it up, make sure it is lubricated and it is good to go. Thanks for the reply/guide.

 

[jshillin]

I wish I could find a low profile jack for my 300zx that was long enough to actually get to the cross member without first having to drive the car onto 2x4's.

If this one won't work I don't know what will... It lifts my lowered WRX no problem.

http://www.asedeals.com/Ranger_floor_jacks.html

 

[64merc]

Ah man, I think this thread jinxed me. I noticed a small puddle of oil under my 10 year old Cman jack this weekend. I didn't get a chance to check it on a car but it still lifts up with no load. I figure the leak can't be a good sign. Why would it suddenly leak, since I hadn't used it in a long time?

 

[Hiball]

Ah man, I think this thread jinxed me. I noticed a small puddle of oil under my 10 year old Cman jack this weekend. I didn't get a chance to check it on a car but it still lifts up with no load. I figure the leak can't be a good sign. Why would it suddenly leak, since I hadn't used it in a long time?

Flip the jack over and look for where its leaking at, I have seen oil seap up out of the pump area, even with no use so check there also.

 

[Rnz520]

nice car, i love Z32s

 

[cruiser808]

nice car, i love Z32s

+1 on your car; sweet! Your choice in floor jacks, not so much. I've been there.

 

[Adam McLaughlin]

Dude, how can a jack fail OUTSIDE of a project? Do you think that these things just send you an email telling you of a foreseen failure? Must look like this:

"Attention Craftsman Jack Owner: Just wanted to let you know that I plan on expiring next week when you try to get that car up about 8". Just so you know, please adjust your plans accordingly. Sincerely, Jack"

Ha Ha Ha.

Come on....

You guys always find a way to make me smile.

Adam

 

[64merc]

Flip the jack over and look for where its leaking at, I have seen oil seap up out of the pump area, even with no use so check there also.

My Cman jack leaked while it was sitting in my shed, but it still lifts and holds a load just fine. Do you think I should still trust it, or would you recommend I do some work on it?

(BTW, I couldn't tell where it was leaking from for sure, but I think it was the pump area as you suspected)

 

[Gary S]

It is probably about my time for my jack to leak. I hope not. I have been using my cheap imported Torin jack for almost 20 years now without a drop of oil leaking out of it. It has worked hard and well for me. Maybe I'll get another 20 years out of it.

 

[Skin]

My Cman jack leaked while it was sitting in my shed, but it still lifts and holds a load just fine. Do you think I should still trust it, or would you recommend I do some work on it?

(BTW, I couldn't tell where it was leaking from for sure, but I think it was the pump area as you suspected)

if it doesnt leak anymore and didnt spit out more than a few drops you're probably fine. the seals will expand and contract with the change in temperature so thats not a surprise it did that while outside.

It is probably about my time for my jack to leak. I hope not. I have been using my cheap imported Torin jack for almost 20 years now without a drop of oil leaking out of it. It has worked hard and well for me. Maybe I'll get another 20 years out of it.

The fact that its 20 years old is probably why its held up so well . These days they all seem to use the same crummy chinese pumps so theres no point spending a lot vs a little unless you're looking for an industrial model.

 

[nate379]

I exploded my left big toe a few years ago when a CMan jack let go. It was one of those 3 ton ones and it was sticking in the up position, then all of a sudden dropped. Ok, not their fault my foot was under the axle, but still.

My 4 ton one is getting bad too. I have to lift the car and get a stand under it pretty quickly cause it will bleed down after a couple mins.

 

[Hiball]

My Cman jack leaked while it was sitting in my shed, but it still lifts and holds a load just fine. Do you think I should still trust it, or would you recommend I do some work on it?

(BTW, I couldn't tell where it was leaking from for sure, but I think it was the pump area as you suspected)

Its honestly up to you, Its not expensive nor Hard to replace Pump seals, Especially if its just a Oring.

It is probably about my time for my jack to leak. I hope not. I have been using my cheap imported Torin jack for almost 20 years now without a drop of oil leaking out of it. It has worked hard and well for me. Maybe I'll get another 20 years out of it.

Those Older Imports where much better than the new stuff, When it does fail It will have a Poly Ucup on it so it can be fixed for another 20 years.

if it doesnt leak anymore and didnt spit out more than a few drops you're probably fine. the seals will expand and contract with the change in temperature so thats not a surprise it did that while outside.

The fact that its 20 years old is probably why its held up so well . These days they all seem to use the same crummy chinese pumps so theres no point spending a lot vs a little unless you're looking for an industrial model.

...Im not sure about that one. I tend to think it has more to do with the hardening of the Seal, Thus allowing oil to bypass. The reason the 20 years old import has held up so well is because it uses a Poly UCUP insteand of Oring on the Ram. The Hydraulic design is good and been around for along... time. The problems started when they started cheaping out on the seals, Most importantly the type.

I exploded my left big toe a few years ago when a CMan jack let go. It was one of those 3 ton ones and it was sticking in the up position, then all of a sudden dropped. Ok, not their fault my foot was under the axle, but still.

My 4 ton one is getting bad too. I have to lift the car and get a stand under it pretty quickly cause it will bleed down after a couple mins.

Is there any oil leaks evident? If there are Leaks that tells me oil is bypassing the Ram and slipping by the Tank seal. If there is no leaks check the Overload, They are notorious for backing off on the newer imports.

 

[lekkousa]

I'm so glad I bought this AC low profile jack and flattop jackstands when they were still available! They are really good and well made, I will not get under a car with a Chinese made jackstand!

 

[CRTDI]

Actually, the AC products are available again.

They make some nice low profile floor jacks.

http://www.acjacks.com/

 

[srosa707]

I cant believe people are still buying these, and CRAFTSMAN still sells them! Mine failed after minimal use and they didnt sell replecement parts. GARBAGE!!!!!!!!