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Craigslist strikes again ..

Todd.Brock

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I have finally found a drill press to be proud of! The Clausing is a 15" variable speed model. It needs A_P Mech. 's help as the key way is shot on the variable speed pulley. I also picked up the Walker Turner band saw. He has it set up for metal. It has a larger pulley and a 3ph 3/4 hp motor controlled by a VFD set to max of 90 hz. It appears the band saw is pretty desirable in the woodworkers community. It needs a blade guard but runs fine. I will probably need to redo some things on it. Anyway, thought I would share. Oh... And the seller is on here periodically so should he post, I won't spoil his thunder too bad, but he has a bank vault door in the basement. I was speechless. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1337360326.988340.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1337360348.194342.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1337360370.574419.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1337360391.744601.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1337360408.322352.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1337360443.111409.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1337360635.122328.jpg
 
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nine4gmc

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sweeeet score, holy **** at the real bank door, I must be in the wrong business...
 

91bronc300

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Sweet DP. There's a Clausing 3 phase that just showed up on my craigslist. No room in the garage thank goodness or I'd have to go buy it. That guy must be a CEO. They're the only ones nowadays who need bank vaults in their basement.
 

Steevo

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That Clausing is a beauty! I have been looking for one like that.

I passed on a W/T band saw like that a year or so ago, and am still kicking myself about it.
 

JASTECH

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I'm jealus! I been wanting/needing a variable speed DP sence my accident. Post all your redoings so's we can enjoy it please.
 
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Todd.Brock

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The man I bought them from had some sweet equipment in the machine shop on the other side of the basement. Then he said do you want to see something cool? The room was an old cistern. He cut through 10" of concrete for the door. It's now a bar area. Drew , if your reading this, I will take the pics down if you like. But this group respects the door!ImageUploadedByTapatalk1337366388.445817.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1337366416.993425.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1337366437.845121.jpg
 
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spongerich

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I have a WT like that one. Mine is also setup for metal cutting.

There's enough cast iron in one of those babies to make about 50 modern band saws.
 

BD1

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He has it set up for metal. It has a larger pulley and a 3ph 3/4 hp motor controlled by a VFD set to max of 90 hz.

90 hz ?? I thought 100 % was 60 hz ? what's the 90 ?:dunno:
 

91bronc300

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He has it set up for metal. It has a larger pulley and a 3ph 3/4 hp motor controlled by a VFD set to max of 90 hz.

90 hz ?? I thought 100 % was 60 hz ? what's the 90 ?:dunno:


I thought VFD's could produce output current frequency both lower and higher than input frequency. I'm no electrical engineer though.
 
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Todd.Brock

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Thanks John ! I paid 325 for both the saw and the drill press. To the person who asked about 90 hz and above, I really don't know. VFD's are new to me. He said 30 to 90 was the recommended range for VFD ,s I'm learning as I go!
 
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rsanter

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Yes VFDs can go higher or lower hz depending on how they are programed.
If you are going to go higher you need to be sure the bearings, pullies, belts, or anything else can handle the added RPMs

Bob
 

BD1

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Yes VFDs can go higher or lower hz depending on how they are programed.
If you are going to go higher you need to be sure the bearings, pullies, belts, or anything else can handle the added RPMs

Bob

I thought that at full speed 100% of capacity is 60 hz ? I'm just curious about that 90 ? I didn't know it could go higher than 60.
 
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Todd.Brock

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Well,
I wanted to continue on my saga of a nice drill press. I spread out all of my parts. I found that the keyway had gone south, much like another Clausing we know here on the board... Anyway, ordered a new key, belt and nylon sleeve and sent it off to our friend and Machinist extraordinaire. AP_Mech He has performed this repair before for someone here on the board with the aforementioned Clausing. Excited to get everything back and see how it all comes together. I also need to repair the quill return spring by putting a new bend after the broken section... More to come soon...





 
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A_Pmech

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Here's the damaged hub and sheave half as I received it from Todd. You can see where the key failed and ate up the bore of the sheave half. The hub is obviously destroyed and was cut off the motor shaft:

todd1.jpg


The broached keyway in the sheave half was rather augered out. I decided to proceed with a brazed repair. I could have just broached another keyway, but that would increase the possibility of the nylon bushing failing prematurely.

The sheave half is cast iron. So, to begin I preheated the casting to over 1,000F with a large propane torch, otherwise known as a "weed burner":

todd3.jpg


Preheating the part reduces the temperature gradient between the brazing zone and the rest of the part. By reducing the temperature gradient the internal stresses are reduced and thus the risk of cracking.
Copying my 1-1/2" broach guide bushing, I made a 1-5/8" guide bushing from 4140PH:

todd2.jpg


Here's the part after brazing while it was cooling under flame back to black heat:

todd4.jpg


Once back below 1,000F the sheave half was covered with fiberglass insulating blankets and allowed to cool to room temperature over about 5 hours.

Here it is after sandblasting, ready for machining:

todd5.jpg


The sheave half was bored out to clean up and the bushing groove cut back in. Then I cleaned up the face of the sheave half. It was worn slightly, as this photo shows:

todd6.jpg


After a second cut the face cleaned up. I also faced the stationary sheave half the same way:

todd7.jpg


I then broached the keyway in the same place as it was originally, using my new guide bushing:

todd8.jpg


Here's the movable sheave half, ready for a new plastic bushing:

todd9.jpg


Before I can size the bushing I need to make a new hub. To start, I've drilled a hole and reamed it to fit the 1/2" motor shaft. This reamer runs about .0012" over 1/2 which is perfect:

todd10.jpg


After reaming the motor bore, the stock is pulled out of the chuck a ways, indicated for bends which would affect the alignment of the motor bore and the OD of the hub is turned:

todd11.jpg


To be continued...
 

A_Pmech

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Part two of the variable sheave repair!

Before cutting the hub from the stock I cut the snap ring groove in the top half of the hub:

todd12.jpg


After sawing the hub off the bar I set it back up in the lathe, faced the hub end and drilled the broach clearance hole:

todd13.jpg


Over on the mill I cut the new keyway and drilled it for the roll pin:

todd14a.jpg


Then I installed the key and drilled the hole for the hub retention set screw but did not tap it:

todd14.jpg


Using the fixed sheave half to time the tap, I tapped the hub. In this way, one long set screw can be used to lock both the hub to the motor and the sheave half to the hub:

todd15.jpg


Finally, I bored the nylon bushing in the movable sheave half to fit the new hub and hand fit the keyway. Here's the completed work:

todd16.jpg
 
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Todd.Brock

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Im sure some JB Weld would have been all I needed, but i thought I would send it to John just in case. Looks great. So now I need to fit to the machine and get drilling. Thanks again. I will throw up some in process photos sometime soon.
 
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Todd.Brock

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Rust, I am ashamed to say the band saw has not so much as been turned on. It's a domino effect. Build barn, clean out garage into barn, install maxjax, find space for Clausing, repair Clausing, enjoy all these damn toys.
 

DavidB

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I can't believe I missed this thread! Congrats on the DP. I love mine. I think you'll like that saw as well. John is going to have a side business fixing Clausings!
 
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