Crankshaft Speedi Sleeve's install help

[GarageGuy89]

Any one use these 'Speedi Sleeves' by SKF?

I've got a badly pitted crank journal where the end seals ride. It's causing too much leakage and can't get it sealed up (2-stroke engine).

I understand the principal behind these, but don't understand how you obtain a seal between the pitted journal and the speedi sleeve. Should I place some gasket sealer in between the pitted area and the sleeve?

Any advice is helpful.

 

[sberry]

They may Locktite on.

 

[LXCam]

I've used several. And like berry pointed out, just use the right loctite product. I use the permanent green stuff but I don't remember the number off the top of my head.

 

[MoonRise]

RTFM.

SKF says use a powdered-metal epoxy if there are any 'deep' grooves or scoring.

http://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...leeve/installing-skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html

To 'seal' and help hold the sleeve in place, probably use a "retaining compound".

Like Loctite 620 or 680 Retaining Compounds, depending on the upper temp and the sleeve fit (gap). A lot of the Loctite retaining compounds are green, the 680 is silver.

 

[Bruce Amacker]

Doing truck repair I've installed hundreds of them using many different sealers or dry. RTV, Loctite, High Tack will all work. Even dry there's not enough gap for oil to leak out. I wouldn't worry about filling the grooves unless it was really bad, and I've done some bad ones.

Make sure it goes on square and if possible in one smooth motion like in a vise. The start-and-stop motion of a press sometimes leaves little ridges in the sleeve. A hammer is not a desirable way to install them.

 

[kelpaso1]

Doing truck repair I've installed hundreds of them using many different sealers or dry. RTV, Loctite, High Tack will all work. Even dry there's not enough gap for oil to leak out. I wouldn't worry about filling the grooves unless it was really bad, and I've done some bad ones.

Make sure it goes on square and if possible in one smooth motion like in a vise. The start-and-stop motion of a press sometimes leaves little ridges in the sleeve. A hammer is not a desirable way to install them.

Ya ok, how do you put a crankshaft in a vise to install the sleeve

 

[Snaparxon]

I have never used anything but a hammer to install them. Usually the small installer tool they supply isn't deep enough to install far enough on the shaft and the tool bottoms out so I have to make a special driver or the right size piece of pipe to continue driving the sleeve to the proper depth.

 

[JHuston]

I've used them a number of times ( the most recent to repair the worn/ gouged surface of a Roto-Tiller axle); Loctite seems to work well, if the damage isn't excessively deep.
-James Huston

 

[MushCreek]

I just did one on the steering shaft of my Ford tractor. I never knew they existed! I filled the groove with RTV, and drove it on with the little (nearly useless) tool it came with, along with a length of pipe. To be sure, mine is a slow speed, low temperature application. It's keeping the power steering fluid in, though.

 

[Modern Garage]

The OP may already be done with this job but I wanted to add that I used to use them pretty often and almost always used RTV. I bring this up because the original question was about a two-stroke crankshaft which means it has to be not only oil tight but airtight to prevent fuel mixture disruption. I never had any failures with RTV so I recommend that.
I also never "pressed" one on except with a hammer. I've never had an application that was so long that the little stamped steel cup included with the sleeve didn't work, but I seem to remember the instructions refenced that.
Joe

 

[kkroger]

Usually such things come with a small tube of anaerobic sealer you coat the crank then you "Press" on the sleeve... Usually a wood block and a hammer... the sealer is generally either the Loctite RED or the Loctite GREEN (stud and bearing mount) generally you want this style because it doesn't require AIR on it to harden.