Crappy kitchen install.....question on fix?

[1fastvx]

Check this garbage out, the crappy kitchen remodel strikes again! The other day I noticed some cold air coming from under the stove/oven. I had pulled out the storage tray the other day to clean and I saw the plug they added for the stove on the floor. I just figured they did not seal around the stove plug and some air was leaking in from the hole for the power cable. Well, I had a few minutes today to pull out the stove and look what I found. I think this is some of the wiring for the under cabinet lighting. You can just feel the cold air blowing up though the opening. I cannot believe they just left it like that. I wonder what else I will find! Man these guys did such a bad job!! To bad this was all done by the prior owner, I would love to go after these guys for this!

Well, now I need to figure out to best fix it an make sure it is up to code. I can drywall over it, but then I have to cut the studs some to recess the romex into them and then add nailer plates to protect the wiring. The other method may be using a sheet of steel and covering over the hole, but I am not sure if that would be up to code standards. Damn what a pain!!! Does anyone have any suggestions. i am leaning towards doing the right thing and drywall it up.

Checkout the attached pics!

John

 

[Zrexxer]

Not sure about code but if I was fixing that in my own home, I'd just cut a strip of plastic laminate or something thin to cover the slot and stick 'er onto the surface of the drywall with Liquid Nails. All you're trying to do is stop the ingress of cold air.

 

[jam022316]

Can you maybe spray some foam insulation in there and then I'd do as stated above, cover it somehow with laminate, wood, steel, etc. I don't know about code either though. Just my .02

 

[TONE]

Im sure whatever they did in this area runs the distance of your countertops, or at least to where the lites are.

I dont think that wire is code to be inside drywall either. Is it low voltage wiring (cant tell from pixs)

I bet if you pull off the tops youll see more of this.

 

[1fastvx]

No, that is full voltage wiring. I was not planning to buring it in the drywall I want to notch the outside of the studs and run the romex in the notches. I will use the metal nailer plates over the notches to protect the romex and then drywall over as you would normally do. Later down the road when we install new coutertops I will deal with the rest of it. Right now I want to do a clean fix on the shown area to get it weather tight.

John

 

[Scotto]

No, that is full voltage wiring. I was not planning to buring it in the drywall I want to notch the outside of the studs and run the romex in the notches. I will use the metal nailer plates over the notches to protect the romex and then drywall over as you would normally do. Later down the road when we install new coutertops I will deal with the rest of it. Right now I want to do a clean fix on the shown area to get it weather tight.

John

I'd just do what you said with the notches and all. That's damn scary that there's exposed 120V wiring like that in your kitchen. I would pull the countertops and correct all that wiring there too. Not difficult moving and putting back counters because it's usually just some dabs of silicon holding them on.

 

[cat06]

No, that is full voltage wiring. I was not planning to buring it in the drywall I want to notch the outside of the studs and run the romex in the notches. I will use the metal nailer plates over the notches to protect the romex and then drywall over as you would normally do. Later down the road when we install new coutertops I will deal with the rest of it. Right now I want to do a clean fix on the shown area to get it weather tight.

John

notching the studs "structure wise" is a bigger problem than what they did.

Do not notch the studs

easy fix do like was mentioned, glue a piece of lam over the top

proper fix, from the looks of the pic's remove counters and them open the walls enough to drill holes in the center of the studs and run the wiring

 

[W_KY]

If this were mine, I would go with the recessing wires in the 2x4's with the metal plates to protect the wires and then drywall over. 1st: I think with a multi-tool from HF or a sharp wood chisel, it wouldn't take long. 2nd - If I saw where someone had just placed something over top I would think, man they did a half **** job on this even though in reality as long as it blocks the air, mission accomplished. Not that its a bad solution but would make me think, where else did they do stuff like this to. It doesn't make me think a professional did the work......just my two cents...which is worth about what you pay for them.

 

[the spyder]

IMO notching the studs, even with nailer plates, is no better then what you have now.

Cover it up with lam, repair it in the future when you redo the counters. Just patching that little area is not going to fix the rest hidden behind the countertops.

 

[Kevin54]

If you just notch the studs and then put metal plates over it to protect the wire, then you still won't have enough to fasten the new drywall to unless you cut out more of the existing drywall. It may be time to bite the bullet and pull your existing countertops and fix it correctly. This will also include some drywall work in the area of the backsplash. Seeing that the wall does not have any insulation, is it in interior wall. Surely it is not an exterior wall with no insulation. If it is an interior wall, where is the cold air coming from? The wall should have a top plate and bottom plate so no air should be blowing through it. Unless it goes up to a soffit above your cabinets. If that is the case, then the soffit is probably open into the attic and that would be where the air is coming from. You would need to make sure that the area abouve the soffit into the attic in insulated or the complete wall will be a cold wall.

 

[Brad1234]

If you can't see it with the stove in place why don't you just fill the cavity with insulation & leave it alone. If & when the countertops ever get removed you can then figure out how to fix it correctly. They should have run the wires through holes drilled in the studs. I don't know code but I don't see why it would be unsafe.

 

[tcianci]

What you're looking at is common, but drafty. Don't even think about pulling the counters, you're going to open up a whole can of worms. Aside from the exposed area that you show, the rest of the wires are safer where they are behind the backsplash than anywhere else in the wall. Nothing says that romex can't be exposed, it's exposed in basements and attics all the time. Get some of that nice aluminum HVAC tape and cover the channel, install the range, declare victory and go home proud.

 

[ket-tek]

You can notch up to 25% of a 2x4 on a load bearing wall and up to 40% of a non-load bearing wall. It's done all the time and is acceptable in standard residential construction.

A paddle bit works well to make a controlled depth notch in the edge of a stud, much easier than trying to chisel or sawzall it out.

The nail plates are the right thing to use, but as mentioned you will have to cut more sheet rock above and below to nail it on. It may be easier to cut a large section of rock out and drill holes and patch in a new large peice, rather than affixing a skinny strip of rock and packing it with mud. (though being behind the range it doesn't have to be the greatest/smoothest mud job.

Good Luck! Post up pics when you fix it.

 

[aar0s]

I cant tell by the pic but could you tape and mud it like it was drywall as a temp fix or is the crack too big?

 

[PassnThru]

It wouldn't worry me too much in terms of safety since with the stove in place it is protected. Since it is behind the stove, I would probably look into a sheet of stainless or something to mount on the wall between the stove and the range hood. Many people do that to make the wall easier to clean behind the stove. When getting the piece, I would make sure it was long enough to cover the hole. Stuff some insulation in before you put the cover on and run a bead of liquid nails around the perimeter and you should be set.

 

[Bill K]

You don't need to cut the drywall any to attach the patch if you use metal nail plates to cover the notches. Trick is to use a piece of board 1x4 or strip of ply cut an inch or two wide. and 4 or five inches long. Slip it in between the studs thru the cut sheetrock and spin it 90 to the cut slot the run a screw thru the rock above and below the cut out. This will bridge the gap and give you something to screw your patch too. It's call dead wood in drywall world.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Is there any insulation in that wall at all ?

 

[1fastvx]

No insulation is this wall, it is an interior wall. I do think they have the soffit open at the top into the attic. That is why I am getting a cold draft through the hole. I decided for now to do a quick fix I took a strip of contact paper and covered up the hole for now until I decide what to do.

Thank for all the info/ideas so far!

John

 

[NUTTSGT]

Go up in the attic and stuff some insulation in there too.

 

[mrpaco69]

Before you do any stud notching make sure your not cutting chunks out of a load bearing wall......jmo

 

[54FordPanel]

If you are planning on re-doing the kitchen later, I would leave the electrical as is for now. As long as you are aware of it, and won't be nailing in the drywall, it's not really a "hazard". I would spray foam expanding insulation all inside of there to seal the crack. Just for now.
Then, when you are ready to do your kitchen, do it right by pulling the wiring back and drilling holes, put insulation in the wall, etc.

 

[TONE]

Heres my question............

Everyone seems to be saying isulate the area that you see, and to not bother with removing the countertops.

The entire reason for him moving the stove back was to figure out where the draft was coming from.

Im pretty sure that the ripped drywall is running alonger distance than whats behind the stove.

I'd be willing to bet its doing it behind the backsplash. And that could also be causing the draft.

That countertop-backsplash isnt air tight, so if cold airs coming in, its coming in everywhere the drywalls been cut.

You could have the entire countertop off in 10 minutes. Fix it right, and be done with it.

Run the wires thru the studs, and then redrywall.

You wont need to worry about going crazy with it. Just one coat fire-tape it and your done.............and its code!!!!

Not to sound like a jackbag, but some of the answers and suggestions arent much better than what the first guy did in there.

 

[fountain]

Heres my question............

Everyone seems to be saying isulate the area that you see, and to not bother with removing the countertops.

The entire reason for him moving the stove back was to figure out where the draft was coming from.

Im pretty sure that the ripped drywall is running alonger distance than whats behind the stove.

I'd be willing to bet its doing it behind the backsplash. And that could also be causing the draft.

That countertop-backsplash isnt air tight, so if cold airs coming in, its coming in everywhere the drywalls been cut.

You could have the entire countertop off in 10 minutes. Fix it right, and be done with it.

Run the wires thru the studs, and then redrywall.

You wont need to worry about going crazy with it. Just one coat fire-tape it and your done.............and its code!!!!

Not to sound like a jackbag, but some of the answers and suggestions arent much better than what the first guy did in there.

This guy is right.

 

[Jakkle5]

This guy is right.

or instead leave it alone as its not violating code and goto the attic and insulate the tops of the bays to stop the draft from coming in. Removing the countertops, removing enough drywall to drill holes and run wiring, and then re wiring everything on the circuit is more than a quick fix. When you go to redo your kitchen, run the wire in the studs. In the mean time, insulate it and save yourself a weekend of mess.

 

[TONE]

Im not sure if its code or not. If this type of notched drywall goes onto a section where directly behind it is another room, then I dont think its code.

Im fairly certain that if another room is behind it, it would have to be fire sealed. Meaning complete drywall with at least the tape and one application of compound.

or instead leave it alone as its not violating code and goto the attic and insulate the tops of the bays to stop the draft from coming in. Removing the countertops, removing enough drywall to drill holes and run wiring, and then re wiring everything on the circuit is more than a quick fix. When you go to redo your kitchen, run the wire in the studs. In the mean time, insulate it and save yourself a weekend of mess.

 

[rwhite692]

What you're looking at is common, but drafty. Don't even think about pulling the counters, you're going to open up a whole can of worms. Aside from the exposed area that you show, the rest of the wires are safer where they are behind the backsplash than anywhere else in the wall. Nothing says that romex can't be exposed, it's exposed in basements and attics all the time. Get some of that nice aluminum HVAC tape and cover the channel, install the range, declare victory and go home proud.

....Exactly. No need to get into demolition mode over something this trivial. I swear, some folks here would have you demolish the house and rebulid.

If you'd like, You could use some "great stuff" spray foam insulation in there, after it has cured, flatten the surface with a cheeze grater, spackle, paint.

 

[djd99]

This guy is right.

lol only if you want to redo the entire kitchen, as others have stated the wire is not in any way dangerous as is. Going through with pulling the drywall, boring holes in every stud to rewire it to code is a big project and really not needed until it's time to rehab the kitchen witch requires a big budget. And until then just insulate the drafts, fill the holes and be done with it.

 

[Git]

The adjacent counter tops are probably caulked along the top edge. I am sure that strip of drywall they cut continues around the kitchen like that but I am not sure I would be willing to remove the counter tops to fix it - but that would be the proper way to do it

I would think about cutting some drywall strips that would fit inside the stud bays lengthwise and about 4 or 5 inches wider. For example, if the studs were 16" on center, the gap in between them should be 14 1/2" so I would cut a piece 14" x 6" or so. You can then insert the piece into the stud bay and position it behind the dry wall by sliding it up and then down so that it will seal the opening from behind. Some drywall screws into both pieces slightly above and below the gap should secure the new piece in place. Slap some mud on their to fill in the gap and when your all done, write ELECTRICAL on the wall to indicate their is wires behind that area

 

[lawfarm]

If you do decide to R&R this job, do me a favor and use insulated staples on the replacement...

 

[Falcon67]

Just thinking - if you have air moving in that space enough to cause discomfort, there's a bigger problem in those walls that a drywall patch won't really fix.

 

[TONE]

Sorry, Im just used to following codes.

Yeah, theyre stupid, and really arent needed.

I feel safety is something everyone can decide for themselves.

Im going down to the basement now to wire up some lights. Got my duct tape and screwdrivers............all set!

lol only if you want to redo the entire kitchen, as others have stated the wire is not in any way dangerous as is. Going through with pulling the drywall, boring holes in every stud to rewire it to code is a big project and really not needed until it's time to rehab the kitchen witch requires a big budget. And until then just insulate the drafts, fill the holes and be done with it.

 

[MrMark]

I haven't read all the responses but I looked at your pictures. Romex can be exposed so long as it is not subject to physical damage and it looks like this is behind a counter where it is safe. So I don't think you have an electrical code problem.

Notching would be a tough job with very little gain. Although I don't think those studs oriented that way support anything.

If it were mine, I would look into repulling the wires on the other side of that wiring trench of yours. I don't know why they didn't do that in the first place as that is the right way to do it. Then you could patch it up and be clean.

EDIT:

OK, I looked at the picture again and I see that the studs are oriented in the normal way.

You should fix this. It's not dangerous but it is terribly sloppy and half-*** and it would bother me. You need to get a 1/2" right angle drill (Milwaukee it will be the best 250 you ever spent) with a 7/8 or 3/4 auger bit and bore holes for the wire in the center of these studs. You may have to cut the wiring trench a little deeper to get the drill in. I would not notch. You can repull the wires. It may be a challenge, but it can be done.