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Crappy tap handle

andyvh1959

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Tapped four 8mm holes in mild steel, and once again the crappy tap handle frustrated me. Now, 8mm threads are near 1/4" size, but still not very big and the tap kept turning in the clamp portion of the handle. Constantly have to try and tighten the nut. Any decent tap handles to buy out there?
 
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RoninB4

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-Disclaimer: All of my tap handles are at least 30-40 years old and things were made different back then no matter what anybody else says. Some were purchased, some were made by me. The following is just my experience driven opinion from tapping thousands of holes.

-Generally speaking there are two types of tap handles: 1) Flat type 2) "T" type

-Flat type are my preferred type as they present a better feel for tap condition and better torque transmission. They also tend to lock the tap better, especially if there's a hole in the handle to allow a small pin/punch to tighten on the tap. Limited by fixed swing and reach to hole. If not hole in handle, drill one as it does make a difference. Hole also allows it to be hung on nail.

-"T" type often have a knurled chuck with capacity that suggest this will fit the most commonly used taps but many of them don't grip the tap well enough and it falls out during use. Cross handle slides in/out to either side but that's mostly for hole access, short cross handle so less torque can be applied to larger sizes. Less feel for how tap is cutting when tap is dull or having problems. Knurled chuck that only allows hand tightening may not grip the tap well enough. Chuck with flats allows a wrench assist for better grip. Some of this type have a small c'sink in the top for alignment when used in a milling machine (use small dead center in collet). This type that also has a ratchet feature may be occasionally useful for tight quarters but I've seldom needed it and have also had it fail so I locked it out.

-Both need to have ALL the components made from steel. The cheap ones made from zinc die-cast (pot metal) are worthless and will fail you at some point. Test with a small magnet for steel. The Starrett models are nice and somewhat expensive for the average homeowner, shop for used and flea market for better prices. At the extremes of capacity, small and large, many of both types may not grip the tap adequately because handle is too large/small. I've purchased or made more than one size tap handle based on tap grip.

-Tap extensions are needed sometimes for hole access but haven't seen one that grips so the tap wobbles in the extension (bad for alignment) and just falls out when not in contact with the hole. A quick search showed a set of 3 flat handles at Tr*ctor Supply for $20 that's listed as all steel body and tempered jaws. I have no experience with these and don't advocate purchase but you can examine/test them before purchase. I would suggest checking ALL of this handle with a magnet, especially the large/bulky body that holds the jaws. The handles may be steel but the rest of it needs to be too.
 

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BillK

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Picture ? I don't understand how the tap can spin in the handle unless there is a type of handle I have never seen. All of the ones I have clamp on the square part at the top of the tap. Mine are probably 40 year old Craftsman and General. How can this possible slip ?
 

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alfadan

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A lot of the cheap ones are diecast zamak. Total junk. I try to like the flat type, but keep going back to the T handle.
 
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andyvh1959

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Brand new 8mm tap in a very little used T-handle tap. I reset the tap into the handle three times, and eventually the tap handle worked loose/expanded as I turned the tap into the drilled hole. I'll get some Starret or better brand tap handles and some tap sockets.
 

BillK

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Brand new 8mm tap in a very little used T-handle tap. I reset the tap into the handle three times, and eventually the tap handle worked loose/expanded as I turned the tap into the drilled hole. I'll get some Starret or better brand tap handles and some tap sockets.
Does the tap handle have a square drive ? You don't need Starrett. Craftsman or General tool from Home Depot should be fine.
 

nadogail

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Obviously there are problems with either the tools or techniques; is your Pilot hole drilled to size and are you using a good tapping fluid?
 

Milton Shaw

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Try a set of Lisle tap sockets the each socket fits two or more square taps heads. I don't know if they are sized for metric but you cannot beat them on SAE taps. About $20 or so bucks on Amazon for a full set.
Just checked Amazon and Lisle Tap sockets pulled up a lot of choices for about $25, but they have also got a larger set that fits 5/8 to 1" and that set is about $60 if you do larger taps like pipe taps that would be handy too.
 
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whateg01

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You should be able to feel it starting to loosen. After each turn, snug the collet up again. As mentioned above, this is a common issue with most of the t-handle style. I have a couple that don't loosen but they are limited in the sizes of taps they'll fit. If it starts loosening and you keep going, yeah, it'll eventually just slip.
 

liliysdad

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My taps have a square drive end and my tap t-handles have corresponding square holes in the collet. If you snug the chuck anywhere remotely resembling tight, they don’t go anywhere as long as you are using the correct tap handle.


I do want a set of the tap sockets, though. Those look awfully handy.
 

BillK

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My taps have a square drive end and my tap t-handles have corresponding square holes in the collet. If you snug the chuck anywhere remotely resembling tight, they don’t go anywhere as long as you are using the correct tap handle.


I do want a set of the tap sockets, though. Those look awfully handy.
Tap sockets are nice for chasing a bunch of holes like cylinder head bolt holes in engine blocks. I use them with my 3/8" drive battery impact.
 

liliysdad

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Tap sockets are nice for chasing a bunch of holes like cylinder head bolt holes in engine blocks. I use them with my 3/8" drive battery impact.
I had to tap a 7/16 hole in a cast exhaust manifold, behind carburetor, next to the valve cover last night. That socket would have been handy as hell…
 

PugetDude

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Got tired of dealing with crappy tap handles and die stocks , so I I ditched all my old die cast die stocks and tap handles (maybe they'll re-appear in the"Tools you have found in the road" thread? ) and replaced them with 40+ year old high-quality Starrett, Greenfield and Craftsman handles from eBay. Set a search reminder and picked them off one at a time for a few bucks each. Really made tapping holes and cutting threads a lot more enjoyable without worrying about the cheesy soft locking screw moving in the chinesium die stocks or taps slipping in flimsy tap handles. .
 
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andyvh1959

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There are lots of hand tools in bins at the local Restore. I may have to make a regular stop to see if any quality hand tools turn up, like wrenches and tap handles.
 

OccupantRJ

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There is a Viking 727 model of T handle style tap wrench that fits onto a 3/8 drive ratchet. The T handle can be removed for close quarters rotation and the extended reach using an extension is handy at times. I also keep foot long drills as companion tools to this one. I have tapped a few holes in assembled equipment in some hard to reach places. Read the note at bottom of lower pic.36DCAB30-81F7-46D7-A980-6E727F1EA44C.png
 
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PopcornSutton

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Last one I bought was from McMaster Carr, good quality. I bought the one that has a guidance cap. I drill the hole on the mill, then use the guide cap that fits the **** of the tap handle and it keeps it in alignment while you tap. Makes good tapped holes.
 

whateg01

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There is a Viking 727 model of T handle style tap wrench that fits onto a 3/8 drive ratchet. The T handle can be removed for close quarters rotation and the extended reach using an extension is handy at times. I also keep foot long drills as companion tools to this one. I have tapped a few holes in assembled equipment in some hard to reach places. Read the note at bottom of lower pic.36DCAB30-81F7-46D7-A980-6E727F1EA44C.png
That style, with the one piece body, seems to hold much better than the ones with the spring loaded jaws.
 

Tynee

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Got tired of dealing with crappy tap handles and die stocks , so I I ditched all my old die cast die stocks and tap handles (maybe they'll re-appear in the"Tools you have found in the road" thread? ) and replaced them with 40+ year old high-quality Starrett, Greenfield and Craftsman handles from eBay. Set a search reminder and picked them off one at a time for a few bucks each. Really made tapping holes and cutting threads a lot more enjoyable without worrying about the cheesy soft locking screw moving in the chinesium die stocks or taps slipping in flimsy tap handles. .
Same here. Seems like you can actually still find decent deals on these on eBay. I guess the whole world hasn't run the prices up on these yet.
 

ChevyEFI

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I had a soft jawed t-handle which outlived usefulness as thread size increased.

The o-ringed Lisle tap sockets are what I use now.

And that makes me wonder if there's a T-ratchet with on-lock-off selection. Was it Stahlville that has lock built into a certain line of their ratchets?
 

mikegt4

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I also have had not so good luck with tap handles lately. I have a nice European ratcheting "T" handle that worked pretty well but the spring that holds the jaws apart for loading the tap came loose and landed in some unknown location on the shop floor. It still works but getting the tap inserted is a pain without the little spring to hold the jaws open.

I even purchased a Irwin tap socket set on the recommendation of Winky's Workshop YouTube channel. Last week I tried taping some 5/16" holes and the tap kept coming loose in the socket. Upon investigation I found that the inside of the socket is not machined wide enough to let the square end of the tap slide all the way in, only about 1/8". There is plenty of room in the clamping jaws (two opposite corners) but no room for the two other corners of the tap square end to go into the body of the socket. The largest drive end of a tap that will work is a 1/4" square. The socket is supposed to be for 1/4" - 1/2" square drive taps. I guess that I will have to go upmarket to find something decent.
 

WisJim

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And that makes me wonder if there's a T-ratchet with on-lock-off selection.
The old Yankee ratcheting tap handles had a center locking position, just like their ratcheting screwdrivers. I'm not sure of the quality of the jaws and how well they hold a tap, though, as I had in the past always assumed that all T-style tap handles had lousy jaws like the ones I got with my set of taps and dies. I haven't found any locally though and may get one on E-bay just to try out.
 

Fixr

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Dave455

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Crappy tap wrenches seem to be a modern curse.

Trouble is, they are expensive to get right. An engineer will spend a comparable sum on his tap wrench to what a mechanic will spend on his ratchet.

There are very few good ones out there new. A few more are “acceptable”, but there is an awful lot of complete trash.

I’m totally in agreement with RoninB4 in that the tap wrenches from decades ago were considerably better (on average) than today. The problem I think is that many are now bought by purchasing dept’s of companies, rather than by the users, and they don’t really know what they are buying.

The good news is that really good tap wrenches don’t wear particularly, so buying used is the way to go. I’m in the U.K. so the manufacturers here are (to an extent) different, but the principle is not. Almost all mine were bought used. Just a sample below.
IMG_2301.jpeg

For automotive use, where the range of sizes is limited (typically 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 or equivalent) but access is sometimes more challenging, I do find that tap sockets work well. You can use them with whatever handles you like, and it’s easier to find a good tap socket than a good tap wrench.

These are by KoKen.
IMG_2302.jpegIMG_2303.jpeg
 

Rinspeed

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They are a little pricey but the Starrett are well worth it if you do much tapping. I think I have three of them in various sizes.
 
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