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Crimper question

Jlipton

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Dec 23, 2012
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I need a crimper for AWG 6/8 terminals. I want something good but don't want to spend $100+. At first I was looking at the Wiha 32841 (http://www.kctoolco.com/Insulated-Multi-Range-Crimper-7-Inch-p/32841.htm), which is a crimper for insulated and uninsulated terminals. Then I saw the Knipex 97 71 180 (http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1311&artID=3988), which is supposed to be for ferrules, but appears to have the exact same head design as the Wiha. I'd rather have the Knipex. Would this be ok to use for standard terminals (as opposed to ferrules)?
 
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Quickster

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Feb 21, 2012
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I don't see you getting anywhere near a good crimp on 6-8ga lugs with those tiny things. Maybe attempt to add some cheater pipes over the handles for leverage.

What are you trying to crimp? Is it car related? Power wire? Stereo?

Don't buy the harborfreight one, the dies are sized incorrectly.

A lot of car audio guys are using the china 8ton, 12ton etc hydraulic crimpers on ebay with great success on 1/0awg. If you search 8 ton hydraulic crimper on ebay they are usually the ones with yellow handles or sometimes red handles.

If you go to google and search "hydraulic crimper smd forum" you will find a few threads on them.
 

Danglerb

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Lots of threads about the HF hydraulic crimper, lots of squish, but the die sizes don't match the claims, you need to work out which works for what on your own.
 

Torque1st

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Lots of threads about the HF hydraulic crimper, lots of squish, but the die sizes don't match the claims, you need to work out which works for what on your own.

That is fairly typical. Somebody probably has a size conversion posted somewhere that worked for them. -YMMV
 
OP
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Jlipton

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Dec 23, 2012
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OK, so these crimpers may not be great for AWG 6/8. But I still have the question about whether they are good for crimping in general, say AWG 10/12, or just for ferrules. Thanks!
 

skruft

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I have used various Thomas & Betts crimpers for those sizes. You don't need hydraulic power for wires that small.
 

djb2

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Redwood forests
Crimping 8 AWG wire is no big deal. The hydraulic crimper may be overkill, and the hammer crimper is almost certainly too large.

We had to crimp 2, 0 and 00 cables for an electric car project. Hammer crimpers are inexpensive on FleaBay, and can be combined with a 20 ton press for more control.
 

TheMangler

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Mar 15, 2013
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astroracer

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I JUST bought one of the China/ Harbour Freight crimpers off eBay for 55 bucks shipped. It says it comes with 9 dies and will do up to 2/0. We'll see how it works out. I will be doing 4ga and 1/0 so, if I have to make a die, I will.
I have one of the "hammer crimpers" I borrowed from a friend but just couldn't force myself to use it on the van cables. I have most of the cables routed but stopped short of doing the crimps. Thanks for the pointer to this crimper. I hope it works out.
Mark
 

Strouty

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If the OP is on a budget, the hammer style will work, the ones you posted links to will be really hard on the hands. After seeing the reviews and videos I would buy the HF one, that seems pretty decent and the price is cheaper than the ratcheting one I was going to suggest. It all depends on how many you need to do as well as how much clearance you have to get a tool in to crimp it.
 
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astroracer

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I modified my crimper with a bolt on plate. Now I can run the crimper AND hold the wire in place to be crimped.
I clamped the Hydraulic Crimper right to the rad support and got busy. This little mod is turning out to be pretty handy...
MVC017F-vi.jpg

I hung the relay box and routed the wires in some semblance of how they will be when installed.
MVC021F-vi.jpg


I got the power lead for the relay box, the charge/power lead for the battery (from the back), the power lead for the fuse box and the power lead from the alternator all crimped tonight. Once I got going it took about a half hour to do all of the crimps. :) Having the crimper right there, where I was working, was nice!
MVC020F-vi.jpg

These are some very tight crimps...
MVC029F-vi.jpg


I did learn a bit tonight. The terminals I am using are rolled, with the seam at the top, as you can see here.
MVC025F-vi.jpg

After I did the first one (which I got lucky on) I decided to pinch the terminals closed a bit so one edge is "tucked" under the other. When doing this the edge getting tucked will actually "snap" under the top edge.
MVC026F-vi.jpg

This guides the crimp into a very tight roll. I think it compresses the wire about half it's diameter, just looking at it...
MVC028F-vi.jpg

This ready for some heat shrink. :) I need to get some larger diameter red shrink (this is just the plastic boot that came with the terminal)... I could use black I guess but I am trying to make this stuff look like I thought about it before I did it.
MVC030F-vi.jpg

Here is the power block I mounted last week with the cables loosely routed.
MVC022F-vi.jpg

Here is a pic of the relay center with the cover in place... This will get painted body color so it will all but disappear after install.
MVC024F-vi.jpg

That's what I did.
Mark
 

skruft

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May 9, 2011
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759
That is a nice, neat job and an interesting way to use the crimper. It's like the swaging tools, bolt cutters and punches that secure to the workbench.

I find that I can work the large two-handed manual crimper with only a little trouble if I secure the connector in the crimper first, but that still leaves me short one hand, unless I am able to use something else to hold the wire.
 

Torque1st

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I find that I can work the large two-handed manual crimper with only a little trouble if I secure the connector in the crimper first, but that still leaves me short one hand, unless I am able to use something else to hold the wire.
A piece of electrical tape will hold the connector on the wire until crimped. You can peel the remains of the tape off or cover it as required.
 

bfr57

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May 31, 2013
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I'm resurrecting this thead.
What's wrong with the hammer type crimpers?
For us that may use them once every 2-3 years, it sure is cost effective!
 

rshadd

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My TEMCo Lug Crimper has served me well and makes a nice crimp for larger gauge (8awg-0awg) stranded copper wire. I use it for making my own power and ground cables for car audio amp installations.
8600611481_c0a9ba0bdb_z.jpg
 
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skruft

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I think there is nothing wrong with the hammer crimpers. They do work. The others are easier to use and don't need to be on a solid surface.

Many people believe battery cable terminals should be soldered on with a torch. There are YouTube videos about it. I don't know if one way is better than another.
 

Ruger_556

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Dec 8, 2013
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QFT ! No crimpers should be anywhere near battery cables...Don't be too lazy to solder...

Don't solder battery cables... The solder wicks up into wire and destroys the flexibility of the wire as well as damaging the insulation. A good crimp has no air gaps and as long as heat shrink is used will not be any more prone to corrosion. I have yet to see an OEM solder their battery cable ends on...
 

rshadd

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A good crimp will fuse the wires together.

12023384884_0a117443d5_z.jpg


Soldering expands and anneals a crimped copper lug..... not good. When solder flows out into the wire it causes a stress point at the end of the solder flow. Any vibration will cause the wire to be fatigue prone at that point.
 
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bfr57

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May 31, 2013
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A buddy of mine did both the hammer crimping followed by solder. Wouldn't that be the best of both worlds?
 

Ruger_556

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A buddy of mine did both the hammer crimping followed by solder. Wouldn't that be the best of both worlds?

No... The cable will have a tendency to break right where the solder ends because it creates a stiff spot in the cable.
 

TerryH

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Dec 8, 2012
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Springdale, AR
Hammer crimper works but I much prefer the HF crimper. Works very well. Never had an issue with a single crimp yet and I've made a ton of cables etc.. for our dragster. 240 v, 2000 amps.

 
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