Crimpers Klein vs Doyle from HF?

[qqzj]

Looking to buy some crimpers. The default choices are Klein of course. But these Doyle's look very convincing too, with great reviews. So I am wondering anyone who actually compared them before can offer some advice on the tools per se. I can make decisions on other issues. Specifically, I am comparing these counterparts. If I want to save some money, which one is suggested? I guess those look like normal pliers are more versatile, right?

9-1/2 in. Wire Crimping Tool

Amazing deals on this 9-1/2In Wire Crimping Tool at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

vs

Klein Tools Crimping and Cutting Tool for Connectors 1005SEN - The Home Depot

The Klein Tools Crimping and Cutting Tool crimps both insulated and non-insulated 10-22 AWG terminals and connectors. The tapered nose which is great when working in tight spaces. The wire cutter in the

www.homedepot.com

And

Heavy Duty Ratcheting Crimper

Amazing deals on this Heavy Duty Ratcheting Crimper at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

vs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WMB61J5/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[BrandonV]

Dimple crimpers are not ideal since they do not provide for strain relief on the finished crimp for insulated terminals.

Honestly, I'd probably opt for the HF ratchet crimper. If the thing fails for whatever reason they'll just give you another one no questions asked and sometimes the cheaper ratchet crimpers (Klein included) will run into problems.

When recommending crimpers, I usually ask what the application is for... I wouldn't touch any of these with a fifty-foot pole for a boat or airplane but general stuff around the house - sure...

 

[mrvm]

Reportedly the HF ratcheting crimper is identical to the imported Klein ratcheting crimper. If so the HF is the better value.

 

[BrandonV]

Reportedly the HF ratcheting crimper is identical to the imported Klein ratcheting crimper. If so the HF is the better value.

Relevant.

 

[NoahG]

The best pliers crimper isn’t either of those,
It’s the Channellock 909

 

[qqzj]

The best pliers crimper isn’t either of those,
It’s the Channellock 909

I heard that before. Seems the argument is insulated should be near the tip so easier on hand. However, insulated is harder to crimp, so it should be near the hinge for more leverage. Both seem reasonable

 

[Firebrick43]

Astro ratcheting crimper



Much better than any non ratcheting uninsulated crimper.

 

[Bubba Fett]

Ideal has a line of ratcheting crimpers with replaceable dies, but they are expensive.

 

[scooby074]

Those ratchet crimpers are sold by 100 different companies. I have the Princess Auto version.https://www.princessauto.com/en/7-pc-professional-quick-change-ratcheting-wire-terminal-crimper-kit/product/PA0008355331

Channellock 909 for nonratchet crimpers

 

[mrvm]

 

[F-22]

The aliexpress knipex knockoffs can be really good for hobby use.

 

[neophyte]

I heard that before. Seems the argument is insulated should be near the tip so easier on hand. However, insulated is harder to crimp, so it should be near the hinge for more leverage. Both seem reasonable

The issue with the Channellocks, is that the insulated crimper is right next to the cutter, which can lead to the insulation getting nicked on occasion. (Maybe not completely thru the insulation,)

 

[qqzj]

The aliexpress knipex knockoffs can be really good for hobby use.

They aren’t much cheaper than HF thou. Why bother?

 

[F-22]

They aren’t much cheaper than HF thou. Why bother?

Fair enough, no HF where I live

 

[WWheeler]

Might have to pick up that HF Doyle just to see what the ratcheting seems like.
I've always just used a snap-on PWCSS7ACF. I like it as I'm used to using just the one tool to take with me to cut, strip, and crimp, and I've never had a crimped connection fail.

 

[Pasha]

I heard that before. Seems the argument is insulated should be near the tip so easier on hand. However, insulated is harder to crimp, so it should be near the hinge for more leverage. Both seem reasonable

I think it really just depends on which type of crimp you use the most. I recently got a pair of Channellock 909 for this very reason. I mostly use insulated crimps, and they're one of the only crimpers with the insulated die located at the front. It's easier to position everything inside the pliers and you don't have to open them as wide.

 

[Wamsutta]

I'm going to be nitpicky AF and say I don't like the HF, Klein, or the Channellock 909. Why? Because of the die. That little rounded part for the non-insulated terminals. I like it more rounded instead of being shaped like a chipped off human tooth. The chipped off human tooth design doesn't give me the imprint shape that I want. The crimper I liked the best was the Ideal 30-429 with the yellow handles. Ideal has since ruined them by giving them a chipped off human tooth and dark blue handles. The only alternative left for me would be the Snap-on 29ACF.

 

[lardy1]

I have very, very few tools from Harbor freight. I did buy that Doyle non-ratcheting crimper with a 20% off coupon to crimp the non-insulated copper crimp sleeves for my wiring in my basement. I've never used the ratcheting type and since crimping copper sleeves to ground wires didn't seem all that complicated to me, for that simple need, it worked just fine. If I was doing it regularly I would probably get a better one.

 

[Luciferi]

I used klein for years and switched to channelock. I mostly use non insulated and being closer to the pivot is much easier on the hands.

Channelocks are much smoother to open/close and stay that way much longer

 

[Bubba Fett]

I have a pair of non-ratcheting Gardner-Benders. They work, and have comfortable handles, but they are made in China and are rusting, even though I keep them in a climate controlled room.

 

[boom_bap]

The massive ratcheting crimpers look like they'd be hard to get into tight spaces, unlike the pliers type which I've used a lot with no issues. If you are building airplanes I'm sure the crimpers are provided. For cars and basic diy stuff pliers crimper for me. I would also use them on boats if it were my boat.

 

[qqzj]

I used klein for years and switched to channelock. I mostly use non insulated and being closer to the pivot is much easier on the hands.

Channelocks are much smoother to open/close and stay that way much longer

I think I am almost convinced Channellock might be better. Just need to be careful not to cut the wire. The slight loss of leverage by putting the insulated on the front is probably not an issue if lots of people have good result. But I will get the Doyle just for the heck of it.

 

[Tynee]

Since nobody is answering OP's question, and everybody's throwing in alternate suggestions, I guess I will too.
Carlyle

Napa Carlyle strippers FTW. I like that they have the cutter and the stripper included, but that it is behind the pivot. I also like the small pliers section on the end, in case I need to pull a fuse or something. Same price as the Klein and CL, a little more than the Doyle, but definitely more functional.

Only nit I have to pick is that the coating on the handles slips around some when it's hot out.

 

[WWheeler]

Since nobody is answering OP's question ...

That question got pretty definitively answered pretty early on by ...

Relevant.

 

[Meursault74]

I think I am almost convinced Channellock might be better. Just need to be careful not to cut the wire. The slight loss of leverage by putting the insulated on the front is probably not an issue if lots of people have good result. But I will get the Doyle just for the heck of it.

I lean toward agreeing with that but not on leverage . I didn't notice the difference, but if you do mostly insulated crimps, then it might be better from an access point of view to have that crimp die further out. If you do mostly bare crimps then the reverse would be applied.

That being said, I have the Doyle from HF. It's a solid tool. Certainly more than good enough for DIY guys.

The True GJ answer would be to get both

I have used the crimp die for non insulated with insulated connectors and it was ok for what I needed it to do. I mean the wire wasn't going to pull out and the insulation wasn't compromised. Sometimes you have to make it work with what you have.

 

[SDF]

I think you will be fine with the Doyle.

I have the 9in Channelock, Klein, Thomas & Betts, they are all basically the same.

I ended up buying the Klein 1000v insulated version since it has a bigger handle. I use them at work a lot for 10awg

 

[AEAdam]

What do you want to bet that tool was designed by Klein, outsourced to a Chinese manufacturer with a do not compete clause that expired. That, or they just started violating Klein’s IP when the creepy HF buyers came sniffing around.

Id be the first to say, because 2 tools look the same does not mean they came from the same factory in China. In this case, it sure looks like the same manufacturer.

 

[bluedog225]

My Chinese Kleins have gotten a little sloppy with hard use. Save some money.

 

[qqzj]

What do you want to bet that tool was designed by Klein, outsourced to a Chinese manufacturer with a do not compete clause that expired. That, or they just started violating Klein’s IP when the creepy HF buyers came sniffing around.

Id be the first to say, because 2 tools look the same does not mean they came from the same factory in China. In this case, it sure looks like the same manufacturer.

With lawyers from snap on sniffing around, most likely it is the first case. In fact the same design has been used by more expensive brands long time ago. So a third possibility is that some maker in China copied the expired design from even earlier and more expensive tools and sold them to both Klein and HF

 

[KnurledNut]

L-R: Channellock 909 - Klein 1005 - T&B WT111M - Snap-on 29CP - T&B WT2000
Non-insulated die. 18ga wire.

Both T&B models and Snap-on had the most uniform results.
WT111M has an advantage with two non-insulated dies.

 

[AEAdam]

L-R: Channellock 909 - Klein 1005 - T&B WT111M - Snap-on 29CP - T&B WT2000
Non-insulated die. 18ga wire.

Both T&B models and Snap-on had the most uniform results.
WT111M has an advantage with two non-insulated dies.

Looks like SO and WT111M have a longer crimp? I’d think that would be desirable? The one on the RHS looks quite short. Thoughts?

 

[lardy1]

At the risk of exposing my ignorance.........what is T&B? Maybe I had to watch the videos (which I almost never do) for that info?

 

[KnurledNut]

Ratcheting L-R: Klein 3005CR - SN-02C (generic)
(Note: Both bent the terminal unlike any of the manual crimpers.)

 

[KnurledNut]

At the risk of exposing my ignorance.........what is T&B? Maybe I had to watch the videos (which I almost never do) for that info?

Thomas & Betts. (Now an ABB company.)
The manufacturer of Stakon connectors that are often imitated.
WT111M
WT112M
WT2000

 

[boom_bap]

The Klein 1006 is another option very similar to the T&B. I have one on order to try actually, because I was not impressed with the 1005 on crimps on 22ga. The 909 is certainly better for smaller gauge wire imo, but the 1006 might take the cake for the price compared to the t&b, I'll report back.

Something to be aware of is that the 909 has a little point in the non insulated die, rather than a smooth side, so you'll get a dimple on both sides if that matters to you.

 

[KnurledNut]

Something to be aware of is that the 909 has a little point in the non insulated die, rather than a smooth side, so you'll get a dimple on both sides if that matters to you.

On a bare terminal, that W point falls out right at the seam. That can be a blessing or a curse.

 

[jimbothecricket]

Since nobody is answering OP's question, and everybody's throwing in alternate suggestions, I guess I will too.
Carlyle

Napa Carlyle strippers FTW. I like that they have the cutter and the stripper included, but that it is behind the pivot. I also like the small pliers section on the end, in case I need to pull a fuse or something. Same price as the Klein and CL, a little more than the Doyle, but definitely more functional.

Only nit I have to pick is that the coating on the handles slips around some when it's hot out.

I use the Carlyle strippers nearly every day and can't recommend them enough! I used to use Klein crimpers but they are much more difficult to fit into tight spaces (I work with third-party automotive devices). I'm pretty sure the Carlyle crimpers are identical to the pairs sold by Cornwell and VIM but much cheaper ($30 at NAPA as opposed to $60+). Snap-on's PWCS7ACF is also identical but made in the USA. When I first saw a pair of PWCS7ACF crimpers I new I needed them so I was very happy to find the Carlyle version in my price range.

 

[lardy1]

Thomas & Betts. (Now an ABB company.)
The manufacturer of Stakon connectors that are often imitated.
WT111M
WT112M
WT2000

Hey, thanks. I couldn't put that together. Not really an electrician but fumble my way through residential wiring and some other minor repairs.

Coincidentally, Until the past few years I always referred to crimp fasteners as stakon fasteners and used the old style flat pliers tool for stripping and crimping them. Appreciate the information.

 

[BrandonV]

L-R: Channellock 909 - Klein 1005 - T&B WT111M - Snap-on 29CP - T&B WT2000
Non-insulated die. 18ga wire.

Both T&B models and Snap-on had the most uniform results.
WT111M has an advantage with two non-insulated dies.

Is there a reason you picked the non-insulated die with insulated terminals?

 

[KnurledNut]

Is there a reason you picked the non-insulated die with insulated terminals?

Preference. Pretty typical practice really.