Critique my lighting layout

[Affinity Fab]

I'm in the process of wiring up my newly constructed pole barn & ready to order the lights. I plan to go with LEDs in T8 fixtures, I'm just need to finalize my plan. I want it very well lit & to do it right the first time. I've read a lot of the great information Platonic Solid has offered up over & over. Below is what I've come up with for a layout but I'm wondering if it's a bit overkill. Like I said I want it well lit but don't need to spend more than necessary.
The building is 30x56 with 13' ceiling height. The plan is to have finished white (drywall) ceiling & walls with gray epoxy floor. It will be mostly wide open space used for mainly metal fabrication, welding, machining, automotive work, etc. Each fixture shown is a 8' tandem strip (4, 4' T8 each) using 18W LED tubes, 2250 lumen ea. 5000K. This layout has a total of 27 fixtures (108 tubes).
Am I going overkill, should I lose one row of 5 fixtures & stretch out 22 fixtures over the length? Or does this look good?

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[ctgoodman]

I'll be interested to hear what is said here as this is close to the size my building will be. Would love to see some pictures of it all lit up when you get it done.

 

[vettex2]

All I know is that the LEDs I have are BRIGHT.
I think you will be ok

 

[ard]

I did approx 95 lumen per sqft. You will be at 140. It will be bright.

Do you like 5000K illumination? Maybe buy a sample bulb? I dont do a ton of finish work, and prefer 4000k.

If you can wire it so not all lights come on together (ie split wirong in each fixture) you might consider it. That size shop you might do 6 circuits- 3 areas, each area can be half or full illumination.

 

[tom-ky]

All I know is that the LEDs I have are BRIGHT.
I think you will be ok

Which ones did you use?

 

[jmiller_2308]

I'll just add some observations from my own experience. I laid out lights like you did to give general illumination all around the shop but now that I've lived with it a bit I wish I had paid more attention to specific work areas.

Among one of the best things I did was to create zoned lighting by splitting the shop into 4 overlapping work zones. This allows me to have lights in the specific area I'm working in without having to blow my eyeballs out lighting the entire space.

I also used a mix of 4' strips, down cans, and some under cabinet task lighting. The strips are great for general illumination but the task lighting really helps to avoid shadows and further illuminate up close work.

I'm happy with my lights running parallel and 2' away from the walls; with the walls painted white light bounces nicely into the room. Unfortunately, I have now realized that if I ever get around to putting storage cabinets up high that the lights are likely going to be too close to the cabinet and that I'll have shadows under that cabinets.

I changed the arrangement over my lift. Although the lift could move, it is likely only going to be in the one place. Because of this I reduced the number of lights directly over the lift as I figured that light wouldn't make it to my work area anyway. Instead, I added switched outlets on the ceiling so that if I decide to I can go back and add lights there later. I also added under lift lights to the lift to illuminate the space that would normally not be illuminated when a car is on the lift.

When you run your wires, I'd suggest running a leg to power ceiling fans. I wired for and mounted wall fans but they are noisy and probably less efficient than a ceiling fan. I wish I had at least planned for ceiling fans as an option.

I'd suggest looking at how the space will be used and either adding or adjusting to your lighting plan to make specific task areas better. In my case, that was the lift and benches along the wall where I used task lighting in addition to the overhead. I found that although I love my wall benches, I'm more effective using my rolling work surfaces as I can get to all 4 sides with them. Using down cans in specific areas allows me to roll the work surface into higher illumination if I need to.

 

[yeldogt]

Lighting depends on how you are going to use the space -- Good lighting for one task does not = for another.

The mistake I believe many make to model after an auto body shop -- more light is not always better. My current studio (1700sf) is all open, has very few windows and high ceilings 14-18' -- so I need artificial light. I have two rows of twin 8' T12 fixtures down the middle of a 32' wide interior -- they are on two circuits. I rarely have them both on ... I have specific lights over areas that I use. I think you may find the light too close to the wall at under 3'. I don't like having light directly overhead -- would rather have two lower output on either side ... are you going to work in the center?

I would get a few fixtures and play around

 

[vettex2]

Which ones did you use?

The ones from costco, FEIT I think
4' tubes

 

[amolaver]

I've got a similarly sized shop and a similar light layout. The short version is I don't think it's overkill at all. In fact, I'm guessing you'll find - as I have - after working in it for some amount of time, you'll add supplemental task lighting in specific work areas.

The longer version; I have a 40x60x16 (at eaves, 4x12(?) Pitch roof, so ridge line around 22'). I have all 4', 2 bulb t8 fixtures. I split the light into 4 zones, each separately switched. Z1 is 6 fixtures running the ridge line. Z2/3/4 are all 40' wide x 20' long sections. Each of those sections has 4 fixtures on each side of the ridge line. So 6 + (8×3) = 30 fixtures, 60 4' bulbs. I'm using good Philips bulbs. My fixtures are all chain hung about 18" from the ceiling. The walls+ceiling have white-backed insulation. When I just need to walk in and get something, I only turn z1 on. It's pretty dim but enough. When I'm working in it, I generally turn them all on. It's reasonably bright but certainly not overwhelming. I just bought but haven't installed 3x 225w led fixtures to address specific work areas. 2 will replace a t8 fixture and the third will be an addition. In the mid Atlantic (me), or winters aren't that bad, but the warm up time is still annoying. Looking forward to having at least some lights full boom at the flick of the switch even down into the teens.

I guess the long and short imo is that what you've planned is a good starting point but expect in a year or two, after you've found a good layout of benches / equipment, you'll probably supplement with task lighting.

ahm

 

[NoGarageAtHome]

Can't really comment because lighting needs/preferences can vary from person to person but If I was wiring this myself I would get creative with the switches. Maybe go ABC stitching and light the shop up in thirds or AB and light up all the lights one half of the time. I don't think I would want all those lights on one switch.

 

[Affinity Fab]

Thanks for the input guys.
To elaborate a little bit, I do plan to have these lights switched as three separate zones. I also plan to use task lighting above my work bench, mill, lathe & other stationary equipment. I also have a lot of equipment & welding/fixture tables that are on casters & moved to where I need it at the moment so good overall lighting is important. My question was more along the lines of does this seem appropriate for the overall general lighting of the space or does it seem like overkill?

 

[Affinity Fab]

I did approx 95 lumen per sqft. You will be at 140. It will be bright.

Do you like 5000K illumination? Maybe buy a sample bulb? I dont do a ton of finish work, and prefer 4000k.

If you can wire it so not all lights come on together (ie split wirong in each fixture) you might consider it. That size shop you might do 6 circuits- 3 areas, each area can be half or full illumination.

I'm not 100% on the color temp yet but leaning towards 5000. In the house I prefer closer to 4000 but I kind of like a little whiter light in the shop.

I'll just add some observations from my own experience. I laid out lights like you did to give general illumination all around the shop but now that I've lived with it a bit I wish I had paid more attention to specific work areas.

Among one of the best things I did was to create zoned lighting by splitting the shop into 4 overlapping work zones. This allows me to have lights in the specific area I'm working in without having to blow my eyeballs out lighting the entire space.

I also used a mix of 4' strips, down cans, and some under cabinet task lighting. The strips are great for general illumination but the task lighting really helps to avoid shadows and further illuminate up close work.

I'm happy with my lights running parallel and 2' away from the walls; with the walls painted white light bounces nicely into the room. Unfortunately, I have now realized that if I ever get around to putting storage cabinets up high that the lights are likely going to be too close to the cabinet and that I'll have shadows under that cabinets.

I changed the arrangement over my lift. Although the lift could move, it is likely only going to be in the one place. Because of this I reduced the number of lights directly over the lift as I figured that light wouldn't make it to my work area anyway. Instead, I added switched outlets on the ceiling so that if I decide to I can go back and add lights there later. I also added under lift lights to the lift to illuminate the space that would normally not be illuminated when a car is on the lift.

When you run your wires, I'd suggest running a leg to power ceiling fans. I wired for and mounted wall fans but they are noisy and probably less efficient than a ceiling fan. I wish I had at least planned for ceiling fans as an option.

I'd suggest looking at how the space will be used and either adding or adjusting to your lighting plan to make specific task areas better. In my case, that was the lift and benches along the wall where I used task lighting in addition to the overhead. I found that although I love my wall benches, I'm more effective using my rolling work surfaces as I can get to all 4 sides with them. Using down cans in specific areas allows me to roll the work surface into higher illumination if I need to.

Yes, I will be wiring for ceiling fans. I will have a wall bench along about half of the left hand wall & like you I have a few rolling work tables in the form of surface plates, welding tables & such that I use most of the time.

Lighting depends on how you are going to use the space -- Good lighting for one task does not = for another.

The mistake I believe many make to model after an auto body shop -- more light is not always better. My current studio (1700sf) is all open, has very few windows and high ceilings 14-18' -- so I need artificial light. I have two rows of twin 8' T12 fixtures down the middle of a 32' wide interior -- they are on two circuits. I rarely have them both on ... I have specific lights over areas that I use. I think you may find the light too close to the wall at under 3'. I don't like having light directly overhead -- would rather have two lower output on either side ... are you going to work in the center?

I would get a few fixtures and play around

Yes, I will be working in the center on my surface plates or when I have a chassis setup on stands.

 

[dontlifttoshift]

I like the layout.

5K is perfect in a metal fab shop.

Proof that everyone has their own idea of perfect, I love having the light directly overhead. I hate having switched task lights everywhere.

I would break it into 4 circuits if you want to break it up at all. All the lights running left to right in the picture is switch 1......that way the whole shop has some light. Then run the three top to bottom runs on their own circuit when working in a specific area. More than likely you will find that you either just flip switch 1 or you will have them all on but never in between.

 

[Affinity Fab]

I like the layout.

5K is perfect in a metal fab shop.

Proof that everyone has their own idea of perfect, I love having the light directly overhead. I hate having switched task lights everywhere.

I would break it into 4 circuits if you want to break it up at all. All the lights running left to right in the picture is switch 1......that way the whole shop has some light. Then run the three top to bottom runs on their own circuit when working in a specific area. More than likely you will find that you either just flip switch 1 or you will have them all on but never in between.

I tend to agree with you on this. While the theory of lighting in zones is great in concept I don't see myself practically using it like that. Same with the idea of just lighting some of the lights over the entire area. I find myself either wanting the lights on or off. I don't see any reason to want it lit really well but not all the time.
My only real reason for planning to break it up into 2-3 circuits is that I believe them all on one would be near the capacity for a 20A circuit and in case I have the lights on with the roll up door up, no sense in having lights on that will be covered by it.
I'm just wondering if 147 lumen per sq ft is overkill & I could cut back a few fixtures. I have nothing to gauge it against.


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[cybrdyke]

Overkill.
Please dont make the mistake of using the number of lumens the lamps produce and dividing it by the square footage. Those figures dont mean anything together. What you need to do is to get someone to do a lighting layout for you, also called a point-by-point. This will tell you how much light you have at your task level and will take the guess work out of this for you. But, you'll need to be specific on what fixtures/lamps you intend to use. My guess is that you'll be able to eliminate all the fixtures that are perpendicular to the rows. That's an odd arrangement. Not sure why those are there unless you have some tasks under them. Then, move the outside rows inward some. Often, there are racks, cabinets, etc...against the walls and there's no use lighting the tops of those. Hope this helps a little.
Good luck,
CD

 

[Affinity Fab]

Overkill.
Please dont make the mistake of using the number of lumens the lamps produce and dividing it by the square footage. Those figures dont mean anything together. What you need to do is to get someone to do a lighting layout for you, also called a point-by-point. This will tell you how much light you have at your task level and will take the guess work out of this for you. But, you'll need to be specific on what fixtures/lamps you intend to use. My guess is that you'll be able to eliminate all the fixtures that are perpendicular to the rows. That's an odd arrangement. Not sure why those are there unless you have some tasks under them. Then, move the outside rows inward some. Often, there are racks, cabinets, etc...against the walls and there's no use lighting the tops of those. Hope this helps a little.
Good luck,
CD

I do understand that simply dividing the total lumens by the square footage isn't exactly how it works, I was just using that as a generalization since I'm trying to evenly light the entire space. The layout will have workbenches & equipment around most of the perimeter, the reasoning for the perimeter lights 2'10" off the wall. Yes I do plan on a few cabinets on one wall so I would probably bring the ones in that section a little further off the wall. The rest is pretty wide open. I have a few large layout & welding tables on casters that will be used in various areas in the middle as needed, hence the reasoning for wanting good lighting over the entire space.
The overall layout was based off of Platonic Solid's recommendations using these exact lamps.

 

[cybrdyke]

Then your work areas around the perimeter should be well lit well enough. Bright walls make a huge difference. The perpendiculars dont add any even-ness. Those strips are designed to have good photometrics when used in rows. And with LED tubes from 13', you'll be very even. To eliminate the perpendiculars, I'd do a 4th row, space them at 2', 10', 18, 26' . That'll eliminate 6 fixtures. At a glance, I'd say you're still a little high. But see if you can get someone to do the charts for you.
Good luck,
CD

 

[Affinity Fab]

I follow what you're saying, I'll look at laying it out that way & compare.


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[macgee]

I follow what you're saying, I'll look at laying it out that way & compare.
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Affinity Fab:

cybrdyke has given you some very good information and has enlighten you (forgive the pun) about what to think about. If I may add a couple of things.

Light is very sensitive in regards to travel/distance., it fades quickly (exponentially). You need to decide & know how many foot candles you want/need at your given work surfaces (60-100 FC?), not the floor unless your bending over and working on the floor. For instance typical Bridgeport mill table height is around 30"-38" above the floor which I would say is also a good avg. height to use when making your lighting calcs. Shoot for the lower table height number to be safe.

I recommend what cybrdyke said and contact someone. If you contact the manufacturer of the light fixture your interested in, they are usually happy to do a quick photometric study of the space for free if you give them the particulars and even better send them a .dwg drawing of the space, tell them the desired foot candles, surface height and they will give you layout; include the color of walls, ceiling and floor. They will send back a drawing with there lights laid out for your lighting needs.

Personally I think you have too many fixtures and can be reduced by as many as ten of them but I don't have the particular specs. to say for sure. Figuring out the walking circulation and where work stations/machinery will be will also help you keep it efficient when doing your lighting layout. Having nice white walls & ceilings with gray floors will immensely help contribute towards your lighting needs and even out the lighting. Not enough shops do this.

Lastly, I can not say this enough but please consider high CRI (color rendering index) lamps. Google has plenty of info on this.
When contacting the manufacturer ask them what the CRI is for the bulbs/lamps. I would greatly prefer 90+> CRI in the shop. Sadly most people disregard this and end up living most of there lives in a shop with bad lighting, it shouldn't be overlooked and your shop will look beautiful.

Good luck