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Critique my lighting plan

btlegacy

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Sep 7, 2012
Messages
238
Location
NC
I am currently on the phase of working on my lighting for my 30x30 detached garage. The old owner had strung up some wire and put up a few basic ceramic sockets. I have pulled out most of that as it wasn't routed very well and have started from scratch.

I received (6) 4-bulb T8 troffers from a buddy and am working on flush mounting them on the sides. They are marked in yellow on the diagram. More info on them here: http://tinyurl.com/mcljtv4

I picked up (4) 2-bulb T5 fixtures with wall mount brackets that I plan to put on the wall where my workbench will be. The are marked in blue on the diagram. More info on them here: http://tinyurl.com/l6dg5tg

I plan to pick up (3) of the Tandem 4-bulb T8 fixtures from Lowes for the middle. They are marked in green. More info on them here: http://tinyurl.com/k5sg3gz

I also plan to pick up (6) 6in Recessed lights that will have LED trims in them. They are marked in purple. These will be hooked to a motion sensor and be used to have initial lighting when I walk or drive in to the garage.

The top left side of the garage will have a compressor closet and that will get a bathroom fan/light combo. This is marked in orange. Something like this: http://tinyurl.com/kaodhk2

Here is my crude Excel diagram:
garage0729.jpg
 
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btlegacy

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Sep 7, 2012
Messages
238
Location
NC
I decided to go with 4ft wrap fixtures instead of the tandem 8ft and am trying to figure out how to lay them out.

The first picture is where I currently stand and the next 3 are ideas of how I am thinking of laying it out. I put the lights closer together near the ladder as that where cars will be pulled in to when I am working on them

layoutcurrent.jpg


layout1.jpg


layout2.jpg
 
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btlegacy

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Sep 7, 2012
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NC
Well, I adjusted the plans again and have a mix of 8ft and 4ft fixtures. I have finally put up most of the boxes into the ceiling and ran the wire. Now I am taking one last look before the ceiling gets closed up to make sure I have good coverage. This is what's currently wired up and what i have boxes for. Anything else that I should add?

lights3.jpg

alegend.jpg

boxes.jpg
 
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sands35

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May 29, 2012
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936
Location
St. Joseph, MI
If you are working on cars, don't put the lights right over the roof. Light doesn't do any good there.

And light design isn't a science project. :) Free lights are great - but only if they work for you.
 
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bzinsky

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Oct 27, 2014
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I'd switch the t5's out for standard t8's, t5's cost more, and it's just less hassle when you have only 1 kind of bulb to replace.

I like the motion sensor LED's

One thing that would be really cool if you like working on cars, is lighting built into the floor. Lighting up the undercarriage has been a pain in the *** since the dawn of the automobile.
 
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btlegacy

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Sep 7, 2012
Messages
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NC
Thanks for the info. I will work on the last section of copper. I mocked it up last night but have not soldered everything together. I am going to see how I can work it so I don't have that drop there and still get it under the plywood.

The lighting looks pretty good to me overall, just make sure that the light isn't behind you casting your own shadow on your work area in all the places you will be spending the most time.

There is one thing I noticed in the picture you just posted that I thought I would mention. I am assuming that the copper line in the ceiling is for compressed air, like a ceiling mounted hose reel? If so, with the way you have the copper pipe now the low part will just fill up with condensed water instead of draining like it should to a low point for removal via manual ball valve etc. If left the way it is, condensed water will most likely build up in the pipe until it is mostly full and then it will get pushed out your pneumatic tool by the flow of air through the system. This will result in a big burp of water out the tool's exhaust port every so often. The way it is now you basically created the equivalent of a plumbing p-trap in the compressed air system.
 
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btlegacy

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Messages
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NC
Hehe, that makes sense. I will be pulling cars in to the area in fornt of the ladder. The hood should be right below the 3 eight footers near the ladder and there will be some lights over the roof but I wanted to have that area covered as well so I don't have a dark spot in the middle
If you are working on cars, don't put the lights right over the roof. Light doesn't do any good there.

And light design isn't a science project. :) Free lights are great - but only if they work for you.
 
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btlegacy

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Joined
Sep 7, 2012
Messages
238
Location
NC
I was looking for some flexible lighting and I found all four of these fictures plus another one that ended up in the laundry room and 10 bulbs for $60.

Info Here
g1217-ss-i_1000.jpg


I got the motion lights tuned in pretty good. As soon as I open one of the door I have good light about 10 seconds later.

The floor lighting idea is interesting and would be a huge help. Any ideas on how to accomplish something like that?

I'd switch the t5's out for standard t8's, t5's cost more, and it's just less hassle when you have only 1 kind of bulb to replace.

I like the motion sensor LED's

One thing that would be really cool if you like working on cars, is lighting built into the floor. Lighting up the undercarriage has been a pain in the *** since the dawn of the automobile.
 
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