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Critique my welding practice, part II

Brian.Evans

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Joined
May 10, 2012
Messages
75
Well, I hesitate to even post these up here, because I can see several glaring issues,*@#$
even with my untrained eye. However, only perfect practice makes perfect,
*@#$and I want to get better, so lay into me fellas. *@#$
All beads are on 3/8" plate.*@#$

1: *@#$1/8" 7018 DCEP 125A
IMAGE_1000001297.JPG

HD Version:
IMAGE_1000001298.JPG


2: *@#$1/8" 6011 DCEP 125A*@#$
IMAGE_1000001299.JPG

HD Version:
IMAGE_1000001300.JPG


Ok guys, lay into 'em. I want to learn!
 
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ScottS

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Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
53
Location
kansas
Switch your polarity and see how it turns out. Lots of spatter hold your arc shorter.

Do you have gloves and a long sleeved shirt on at least? Hard to have smooth and steady movements when you are doing the hot man dance. Long pants and shoes that cover your feet and Leather would be good.

Brace your self against the bench you have your part on.

It does not look like you are doing too bad.

If I recall correctly 6011 will run on AC.

Scott
 
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Brian.Evans

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May 10, 2012
Messages
75
Oh, forgot to say, most of the 6011 spatter is mine. The 7018 spatter is fom when they cut the coupon with an O/A torch.
 
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Brian.Evans

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Joined
May 10, 2012
Messages
75
Long sleeves, boots, welding gloves. Yep.

6011 will run on AC, but neither will run on DCEN, according to my chart.

Here were my first beads:

IMAGE_1000001282.JPG


IMAGE_1000001283.JPG

IMAGE_1000001284.JPG


90* Same 3/8" plate, same 6013 settings. Pockmarks are from my slag hammer.
IMAGE_1000001285.JPG


And a fun wall hanger I made my wife. She actually liked it, which I was surprised by!
IMAGE_1000001286.JPG
 
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Link-Belt

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Joined
May 7, 2012
Messages
512
Location
Arlington Texas
Doesn't look to bad for a beginner. Uniformity will come with practice. Keep the tip of the rod in your puddle. Think maybe I see a little undercut let the puddle fill and that will take care of that. Here is a tip that most welders don't do but it will help I promise. Don't forget to take in account for lighting. Most welders I know stick in a no. 10 lens and role with it. In the sunlight with no safety glasses or clears under my Hood I do no.10 lens, with dark safety glasses on I switch to a no.8 lens, in a dark area or at night I do a no.8 lens with clear safety glasses.
 

NASTYZEN

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Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
2,823
Location
St-Colomban,Que. Canada
I second the DC reversed polarity. It is a must! This way you should be able to drag the electrode on the surface without it sticking. The weld bead with a 7018 should be smooth as a baby's ***. If you still have that much spatter, you have to much current happening. Try using one amp per .001'' as a starting base point. Your angle might be off also. About 15 deg. or so as a starter
Make sure your electrodes are dry. Bake them in the wifey's oven at 200 for a half hour prior to using.
Don't breath the fumes!!Keep your head out of the cloud, your glass will stay clearer for longer.
So get back at it and lay down a box or 2.......practice does make perfect.:thumbup:
 
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1967lemans

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Dec 18, 2011
Messages
275
Location
Springfield, MO
Correct. for 7018 and 6011 run it electrode positive. Your 6011 will also run on AC. 6011 and 6010 are basically the same thing except 6011 can run on AC. For 6013 run it on whatever you prefer. AC, +, or -. For metal under an 1/8 I run 6013 electrode neg as this will keep it from "burning through" .
I have found the best way for me to run 6010-11 is to whip it. Remember to watch the puddle and not the arc. Beginners have a tendency to look at the bright arc instead of the puddle.
 

gmwelder86

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Joined
Dec 8, 2010
Messages
463
Location
Oakdale , ca
try and master 6010 first, is a fast freeze electrode and once you get it down and looking good move onto loHY. Try and turn your 6010 down, you can safely run 6010 1/8 anywhere from the high 60s all the way to 110 if you know how to use it. Try it at around 75, slow down a bit, keep a shorter arc and really stack it on their. Learning to run 6010 right forces you to watch the puddle, your arc legnth and where you are going. All very important things you must master. Consitancy is everything when it comes to welding.
 

dr_clyde

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Jan 7, 2009
Messages
6,450
Location
Holland, MI
I certified in all position steel pipe welding with 6010 root, 6010 fill and cap, 6010 root, 7018 fill and cap, MIG short arc root and 7018 fill and cap, TIG root with 7018 fill and cap, and TIG root with flux core spray transfer fill and cap. These are some of the lessons I learned along the way.

The hardest part of learning to stick weld is keeping a consistent arc length and travel speed. All the smoke and spatter tells me you are running a long arc length. Hiccups in the bead shape tell me your travel speed is not consistent.

For 7018; deep penetrating, all position, fast fill electrode, the flux contains a fair amount of iron powder, so you get more weld metal than just the core wire. Take a scriber and scratch some straight lines in the steel. Looking ahead at the lines helps train yourself to weld straight when the lines aren't there. Light up on the edge of the line, form your puddle, then PUSH THE ROD RIGHT IN THE PUDDLE AND KEEP IT THERE. 7018 can be used as a drag rod, and keeping pressure on the metal with the rod helps beginners keep the arc length consistent. Keep approximate 15 degree drag angle and just follow your line. I know the line thing seems cheesy, but it really helps learn.

6010 is intended to be run on reverse polarity, and is a deep penetration, fast freeze rod typically used for root and hot passes in multi pass welding, like pipe line welding, because it can float out small pockets of its own slag from the root pass, when the fast fill rods won't. It works really well for quick tacks and strange out of position welding, because it has a crisp hot arc that doesn't drip or run easily. This rod can be used at a lower amperage than the fast fill rods, because the flux has less iron to melt in it. The proper method for laying a stringer with this rod is the "whip and pause" or "stepping" technique. Basically, make your puddle, then whip the rod ahead about an eighth of an inch, then back again, steadily stepping the bead forward. This is a great, very versatile rod that is extremely useful in the fab shop. Master it. 6011 is the AC version of the 6010 rod.

6013 is a shallow penetrating rod designed for welding sheet metal and thin plate. It's run on straight polarity, and is very useful for metal under 3/16" thick. It has a nasty reputation for trapping its own slag, so keep a tight arc and drag this rod like 7018.

Take a 1/4" - 3/8" thick hunk of plate, start a bead on one side, and run beads along the plate overlapping the previous bead such that the crowns down form a humpy bumpy surface, cooling the plate every couple beads. Keep doing this until your 7018 and 6013 slag curls up like a potato chip behind the weld, and the 6010 beads look like a stack of dimes. Then, when you've mastered stringers, move on to weave beads.

Clean the metal after every pass and don't EVER weld over slag. You shouldn't have to wail on the metal with the chipping hammer. Scrape the hammer over the metal, almost like a brush. Scrape, brush or wire wheel, wait to cool to appropriate inter-pass temperature, weld next pass. Rinse repeat. GOOD LUCK, and PRACTICE.
 
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Brian.Evans

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May 10, 2012
Messages
75
Here's a picture of a 6013 3/32" DCEP I ran the othe day. I don't remember the amperage, but I was pleased as punch my slag came off like this. I wa able to get it to be like that several times in a row. I had a big pile of long slag pieces. I guess I didn't take any pictures of the beads though. Hmmm......wonder what happened to them?

IMAGE_1000001326.JPG


I got some 1/8" and 3/32" 6011. I can't stop sticking the things. I've ran several feet of 6013 and 7018, but I can't get a 1/2" from 6011. Running right in te middle of the range per my little chart, and DCEP or AC makes no difference. I'm getting frustrated. Should I go to the welding shop and get 6010 to learn with instead? Are they they different, or do I just **** that badly??
 
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