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Crowbar brand?

Tgbrendoni

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A little background; I bought this great find at a garage sale for $18, about 20 years ago.
It measures 48” long and 1-1/8” thick.
It’s painted blue so maybe it’s a Record? As far as I could see, there are no identification markings anywhere on it.
Some years ago, I used it on one demo job and cracked where it curves. Had it welded back together and the shop screwed up, the angle is now at 45 and not 90 degrees. Wasn’t too happy about that. Tried to see where I could buy another one, and I guess that’s when I realized it was a unique tool. Still kicking myself for abusing it.
Anyone familiar with this tool?

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Tgbrendoni

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Thanks Barry. I do have several of those goose neck wrecking bars you mentioned. This one has a different bend at the neck. I assumed it’s more for lifting? Here is my cruelly drawn picture of what it was like before the welding shop ruined it.

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I’ve seen similar shaped smaller ones in stores that are just flat pry bars like this one: d2c2259ce367c547eac62829ed9f0480.jpg

There are those with built in nail puller, but not in 4 foot length and 1-1/8” thick:

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Jazz1

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I had picked up a old crowbar that I painted red and white like a candy cane and gave it to boy. It was around XmAs and he was borrowing mine
 
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Tgbrendoni

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I don't know the brand name but construction contractors had them. They were very handy moving and adjusting fly forms.

Gransfor Bruk makes the Tove bar. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32015&cat=1,43456,43399 After you use one, they are worth every penny.

Look up Burke bar, it not the same but does the same job.



Thanks Downwindtracker for the head up on Burke bar. Unfortunately their ends are also at roughly 45 degrees, just like what the welder did to my bar. The long handle gets in the way when doing renos in baths and kitchens. I preferred the original 90 degree bend for tight spots. Will pay $200 for an identical bar.
Lee Valley sells very good tools, but still attached to the one I have. :confused:
 

ttpete

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I always heard those called 'die bars'. They're used to lift machinery and dies up off the floor to either shim them or start a lift. Our riggers and millwrights used them. Some machines have notches in the base to accommodate them. I have a small one.
 

Downwindtracker 2

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For reno work, Vaughan, as in hammers, makes a very nice casing bar. That's the correct name for the first bar.
 

davethorik

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I always heard those called 'die bars'. They're used to lift machinery and dies up off the floor to either shim them or start a lift. Our riggers and millwrights used them. Some machines have notches in the base to accommodate them. I have a small one.

I have a Mayhew 30" die separating bar. It looks like what the op's bar was made into by the weld shop, with a 45° tip on the curved end, which is what the OP didn't want. Also it's not very beefy- I think 5/8" hex stock.
 
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MattT

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It looks like the break was welded back correctly. Maybe the bar bent some before it broke. Anyways since it's been welded you could just heat it up red and bend it back to the correct angle.

Regards the blue paint I can't remember anything like that made by Record. Someone already mentioned Vaughan and Dasco is another possibility.
 

Millwrong

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Blue was a pretty common colour for pry bars. I'd tend to think Dasco or Gray since you're in Canada. I would expect both of those brands to have a decent brand stamp about halfway up the shank, however....
 
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Tgbrendoni

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It looks like the break was welded back correctly. Maybe the bar bent some before it broke. Anyways since it's been welded you could just heat it up red and bend it back to the correct angle.

Regards the blue paint I can't remember anything like that made by Record. Someone already mentioned Vaughan and Dasco is another possibility.



Thanks MattT, I didn’t realized that it could be done. Was told that the material of the bar is tool steel so it required a special weld. Will check with my present welder if he can heat and rebend the neck. If yes, then you have made me a happy man.
 
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Tgbrendoni

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Thanks for all the inputs and the crow joke. [emoji6] Now due to several more names for it, I can expand my search for the elusive replacement
 

Cleave

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Or just get a good blacksmith to make you exactly what you're after, for $200 you could probably do that. Get it hardened and tempered back fairly soft so it would bend before snapping.
 
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Tgbrendoni

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Or just get a good blacksmith to make you exactly what you're after, for $200 you could probably do that. Get it hardened and tempered back fairly soft so it would bend before snapping.



That’s the plan. In fact, it’s already with a good friend of mine who works in the railroad industry. He says he’ll have a duplicate made soon. We’ll see and will keep you updated!
 

NUTTSGT

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It looks like the break was welded back correctly. Maybe the bar bent some before it broke. Anyways since it's been welded you could just heat it up red and bend it back to the correct angle.

My thoughts on the weld as well. I'd guess the guy knew what he was doing if he welded it and you're still using it. I'd guess probably some preheat/slow cool down to prevent any hot spots or cracking outside the weld.
 

NUTTSGT

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I always heard those called 'die bars'. They're used to lift machinery and dies up off the floor to either shim them or start a lift. Our riggers and millwrights used them. Some machines have notches in the base to accommodate them. I have a small one.

I worked with a guy at GE that had a set of smaller bars and I forget what he called them. He lifted a motor or something heavy off some bolts with two of them, opposite side and equal pressure.

I commented how well they worked and were he got those prybars at. He told me they were called _____ and his dad used to used to own a pattern shop. Like Pete says, lifting mold halves apart. For the life of me, I can't remember what he called them. :confused:
 

Downwindtracker 2

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I started as a carpenter then switched over to millwrighting. So bars, both liquid and steel have been part of my working life. In construction we used bars much like the OP sketched. Every company had a them on job sites. In carpentry , the best tools I found were the Swedish Tove bar and the Vaughan casing bar. Millwrights prized the Japanese HIT brand lining bar, also went by the name pry bar. But I think the correct name was lining. The OTC version was too thick and heavy and the Proto version was a lighter octagon but the pry didn't have the perfect curve of the HIT, it was flat.
 

Mr. T

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I call them die bars. Used to separate plates or halves of a mold (die). They work pretty well for a lot of other things though.

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