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crowsfoot wrenches help

blackz26

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Tried a search didn't find what I'm looking for

Anyways, wondering what the most common sizes and what drive is used in crows foot wrenches. Duralast has a 3/8 set of sae and a set if metric. I'm thinking a 1/2 drive with the bigger sizes would be more useful since I thinkost of the time they're used for ball joints. Speaking of that, what other purposes do they serve where a conventional tool wouldn't do the same thing. Also, do you guys use ratchets or breaker bars when using these? Lastly, looking for the cheapest set that will work with a warranty. These will be a have before I need tool. And something to find my box up. I know they say don't buy until you need, but I just don't work like that. Lol
 
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pipsters

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I would look at flare nut crows foot first, they hold better and won't expand as much. Crowsfeet need to be higher quality, when you need them you need them to not fail...
 

Murphy4570

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I've mostly used them on very tight access stuff that is hard to get at. P/S rack fitting nuts, BURIED fuel filter fittings (japanese style), etc etc.

You won't use them often, but when you need them, they will be worth their weight in gold.

I'd suggest getting flarenut ones over regular.
 

NHBandit

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The most useful crowsfoot type wrenches I own are tubing wrench style. Great for P/S lines, rack & pinion lines, transmission lines, etc. I don't own any regular open end style crowsfoots, wrenched on cars professionally for 40 years and never saw a real need for them. edit... Murphy beat me to it.. LoL.. But he's right.
 
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blackz26

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Needs to be duralast or gear wrench. Or something from Napa. Only three parts store in town. Sears is too far away for warranty purposes. what sizes and drives do you guys use?
:beer:
 
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MFolks

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I've used crowfoot wrenches in tight areas that I couldn't get a regular wrench in, and yes, use a breaker bar and extension(s) to reach the place to do the work. In my case, many years ago, I worked at a company in California who made very large electrical power conditioning equipment. The transformers and chokes were tightly package together in the chassis, making use of a open end or box wrench impossible to use, but just right for crowsfoot wrench to access. It was tricky getting the 3/8"-16 bolts,lock washers and flat washers on the mounting holes, but it all worked out.
 

NHBandit

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Needs to be duralast or gear wrench. Or something from Napa. Only three parts store in town. Sears is too far away for warranty purposes. Anyways, could you answer the question please? If you have experience with them. Thanks
:beer:
Huh ? Now we're supposed to be mind readers and KNOW what brands are available to you ? I'm out...
 

MFolks

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We did not use socket head cap screws(some call then Allen head bolts), as the company wanted tools readily available if the need came up to replace the transformers and chokes.
 

jeremy v

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I consider regular crowfoot wrenches to be a lower torque tool since the open ends are only pressing on two of the six bolt or nut head corners, so 3/8" drive should be fine up to 1" or so in size. I have Gearwrench and they are just fine, but they only get limited use from me. If you were looking at flare nut crowfoot wrenches I would get them in 1/2" drive for anything over 3/4" or 19mm in size if possible. They can handle a lot more torque since they use 5 of the 6 bolt head corners.
 
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MFolks

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It kinda depends on what you plan to use the crowsfoot wrenches on, myself, I've got some 1/4" drive crowsfoots, but most are 3/8" drive. They can't take a lot of torque, as most will start to spread, but doing the transformer and choke installation, was just right for them.
 
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blackz26

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I consider regular crowfoot wrenches to be a lower torque tool since the open ends are only pressing on two of the six bolt or nut head corners, so 3/8" drive should be fine up to 1" or so in size. I have Gearwrench and they are just fine for the limited use they get from me. If you were looking at flare nut crowfoot wrenches I would get them in 1/2" drive for anything over 3/4" or 19mm in size if possible since they can handle a lot more torque since they use 5 of the 6 bolt head corners.

With that said would a 3/8 set that goes to 7/8-19mm cover ball joints?
 

jjjrmx5

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No, I'm looking for what drive and sizes are the most used. No need to get a 3/8 drive set if they're useless.

What sizes? Huh?

F*&%ing all of them.

There IS no size of bolt head or nut that is std. Just a range.
M6x 1.00's come in 10mm-13mm heads. No guarantee what mfgr is using what size head.

Thus--all of them.
Most used drive size? Well, wtf do you work on, and need. Duh.

Check out the Evercraft crowfoot line sets from NAPA if for general automotive work.
SAE is a 8 or 9 pice set and metrics is a 10 piece set.
Taiwan made.
Each comes in a plastic case.

Good value for the money.

I picked up a set of each on sale for $15 or so each a few years ago as backups to my Snappy sets.

Napa normally double that and even more now.
Not HF ****.
Lifetime warranty with recipt. I just tape the receipt in a lunch bag inside the lid since they are not used that often.

Do hydraulic work often or heavy machinery? Then you need to move up to the pro lines from S-K or the tool trucks.

There are not a lot of "middle ground" crowfoot options since they are not big sellers so you tned to get bottom rung quality or pay handsomely for a lifetime set.
 

jeremy v

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With that said would a 3/8 set that goes to 7/8-19mm cover ball joints?

I couldn't tell you for sure as I have never used them on ball joints that I can recall. The size of ball joints is going to differ greatly depending on what you are working on. A 1 ton pickup truck has much larger ball joints than a passenger car. Most ball joints I have encountered have been easily accessed with regular box wrenches or deep sockets for the jobs I have done like CV joint replacements, strut replacements, etc.
 
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blackz26

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It kinda depends on what you plan to use the crowsfoot wrenches on, myself, I've got some 1/4" drive crowsfoots, but most are 3/8" drive. They can't take a lot of torque, as most will start to spread, but doing the transformer and choke installation, was just right for them.

Plan to use them for home automotive repair. And don't want to have to run to the parts store to get a tool in the middle of a job because a regular wrench or socket won't access the fastener
 
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blackz26

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I couldn't tell you for sure as I have never used them on ball joints that I can recall. The size of ball joints is going to differ greatly depending on what you are working on. A 1 ton pickup truck has much larger ball joints than a passenger car. Most ball joints I have encountered have been easily accessed with regular box wrenches or deep sockets for the jobs I have done like CV joint replacements, strut replacements, etc.

Thank you very much.
 

jjjrmx5

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I think the biggest question you need to figure out is if you need a std. crowfoot or crowfoot line style set.

Each has it's pluses and minuses such a a ball joint where a line wrench will not normally fit , but a std. will.

I still suggest you stop by a NAPA and look at the Evercraft sets for occasional use.

Not a wallet buster and a set I trust more than C'man and many others these days.

And still the lifetime warranty if orig. purchaser.
:thumbup:
 
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blackz26

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I think the biggest question you need to figure out is if you need a std. crowfoot or crowfoot line style set.

Each has it's pluses and minuses such a a ball joint where a line wrench will not normally fit , but a std. will.

I still suggest you stop by a NAPA and look at the Evercraft sets for occasional use.

Not a wallet buster and a set I trust more than C'man and many others these days.

And still the lifetime warranty if orig. purchaser.
:thumbup:

Thanks. I don't know which Id use first. That said, sounds like I should buy both sets eventually. And 3/8 drive will get a diyer by?
 

jeremy v

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I think the smartest way to think of a crowfoot wrench is as a last resort tool, so only buy it after all other options are already purchased first and it is found that none of those other options will work instead, which will happen very rarely if ever for most jobs routinely done on cars at home. The order of tools I think of when attacking a job is from strongest (high torque capable and least likely to damage a fastener) to weakest (lower torque only and most likely to damage a fastener). 6pt socket, 6pt box wrench, 12pt socket, 12pt box wrench, line wrench aka flare nut wrench (newer style that grabs 5 corners instead of older style that only grabs 4), flare nut crowfoot, open end wrench, and then lastly crowfoot wrenches.

If I were you I probably wouldn't think of buying crowfoot wrenches until most of the other better options are purchased first. If you already have the other options then you should be fine with a 3/8" set. My Gearwrench sets are 3/8" and they go up to 19mm and 1" and they work fine for all I have wanted to do with them. I use the SAE set mainly for home plumbing related stuff so you might not even need those if you are working on newer metric only cars. Most of the times I have used the metric set on cars it has been holding hard to reach bolt heads while tightening the nuts on the other end and smaller stuff like that.
 
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celticbhoy

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I've only ever used them for fuel, power steering, and brake lines, and it's that kind of tool that will save your *** more times that you can count. Fuel filters, power steering racks/gearboxes, can't do without them. With that being said I've really only ever used 10mm and 12mm, but no doubt getting a set of 8/10-19 or so will be best.
 
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blackz26

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I've only ever used them for fuel, power steering, and brake lines, and it's that kind of tool that will save your *** more times that you can count. Fuel filters, power steering racks/gearboxes, can't do without them. With that being said I've really only ever used 10mm and 12mm, but no doubt getting a set of 8/10-19 or so will be best.

Do you use flare crows for that?
 
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blackz26

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I think the smartest way to think of a crowfoot wrench is as a last resort tool, so only buy it after all other options are already purchased first and it is found that none of those other options will work instead, which will happen very rarely if ever for most jobs routinely done on cars at home. The order of tools I think of when attacking a job is from strongest (high torque capable and least likely to damage a fastener) to weakest (lower torque only and most likely to damage a fastener). 6pt socket, 6pt box wrench, 12pt socket, 12pt box wrench, line wrench aka flare nut wrench (newer style that grabs 5 corners instead of older style that only grabs 4), flare nut crowfoot, open end wrench, and then lastly crowfoot wrenches. If I were you I wouldn't think of buying crowfoot wrenches until most of the other better options are purchased first.

Have all them covered except for 6 point wrench and crows foot. :thumbup:
 

celticbhoy

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Definitely. I'll only use the flare crows. I used an open face on a fuel filter and it rounded the flare nut.
 

jeremy v

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Makes me think I should start out flare nut style, since I could get them on a regular fastener anyway, correct?

If you don't have flare nut crowfoot wrenches already I would definitely recommend getting those first. As has already been mentioned they are used regularly on fuel lines, power steering lines, brake lines, air conditioning lines etc. There are situations where there is not enough space for the long handle of a line wrench to be used.
 
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blackz26

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If you don't have flare nut crowfoot wrenches already I would definitely recommend getting those first. As has already been mentioned they are used regularly on fuel lines, power steering lines, brake lines, air conditioning lines etc. There are situations where there is not enough space for the long handle of a line wrench to be used.

Sounds good. Thanks guys for all the help!
 

RCStocker

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The flair crowfoot are over $80 in the Craftsman brand. I have seen sets of Snap-on sell on E-bay for less in the past month. I have had both styles for 45 years and I have use the streight ones once. I use the fliar style all the time in construction on AC and other lines. I use them on compressor lines and other things. I have the flair in the wrenches as well as the crows ft. If you are not a professional then I would not buy them. Gearwrench makes very good ones for the money and you can find some great deals on SK wich I will take anyday. 3/8" drive is standard and I would start there. As stated you might need up to 1" on larger lines. Once in a blue moon I have used them to reapir machinery when I could not get to the bolt. If I did not have them I could have done without them.
 

basspro

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I purchased my crowsfeet sets (standard and metric) from Menards for $80. Masterforce, made in USA, 3/8" drive. I dont use them a ton, but they save a ton of time when working on a valve bank on hydraulic system. I too would not consider them a high torque item, but the quality is there in this set, my biggest goes up to 1". I may fill out larger sizes down the road with S-K or Snap-On.
 

mrborohachi

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for the money get both the Tekton sets and save money and go out and buy yourself a new ratchet.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPR2BC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I was about to buy both cause one set doesn't get you the damn "Free Shipping". I needed a 24mm crowsfoot for my Previa, but got lucky here on GJ and found a 15/16 Snap-On for $12.

its so rare to use such a tool getting cool guy Tool Truck ones just isn't worth it you'll break the hydraulic line fitting before you break one of these crowsfoots. I have a 12mm and 14mm from my OTC serpentine belt tool set so i'm cool for now.

JTC taiwanese tool company has some good flared crows foot.
 
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celticbhoy

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The problem with those tekton crows is that there's no indent for the ball on the ratchet head to catch onto. You put that on an extension and into the engine bay, after a while they fall off. Also you should really get the flare version.
 

crewchief888

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Definitely. I'll only use the flare crows. I used an open face on a fuel filter and it rounded the flare nut.

sounds like you need a better quality crowsfoot :D

i've seen "mechanics" absolutely destroy a fitting, hose or tubeline trying to break them loose.

proper application of a hammer will "shock" nearly any stubborn fitting loose...

just the voice of experience ;)


:beer:
 
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blackz26

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Does anyone have the part number for the gear wrench or ever craft flare nut crowfoot wrenches? Advanced auto can't seem find it. One set was 61.99 and the sk set was 163. Lol too rich for blood.
 

celticbhoy

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sounds like you need a better quality crowsfoot :D

i've seen "mechanics" absolutely destroy a fitting, hose or tubeline trying to break them loose.

proper application of a hammer will "shock" nearly any stubborn fitting loose...

just the voice of experience ;)


:beer:

I did use pb blaster and tapped it with a hammer, but in the end it made no difference and i'll tell you why. The idiot who serviced the fuel filter before I bought the car put red locktite on the damn threads haha. Nothing would have knocked it loose.
 

SCTony

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I just picked up a set of Evercraft 3/8 flare nut crowsfoot SAE (8 piece) set from NAPA yesterday for $23. The part number is 774-0125 . I am thinking to try and dremel a recess for the retaining bearing as their is none on this set.
 

jjjrmx5

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Does anyone have the part number for the gear wrench or ever craft flare nut crowfoot wrenches? Advanced auto can't seem find it. One set was 61.99 and the sk set was 163. Lol too rich for blood.

Hmmm... my Part No's differ.

NAPA Evercraft flare nut crowfoot sets-3/8" drive:

Metric 10 piece in case
7760126 (776-0126)
List $22.20
I got for $12.89

SAE 8 piece in case
7760125 (776-0125)
List $19.55
I got for $10.79

Taiwan COO.

This is off my receipt from 3/2012 purchase, so around a year ago.
Under $25 for both in the quaterly flyer last year.
I hope they do it again as I"ll gift a set or two to buddies if they do.

I doubt much has changed except maybe the price . :)
 
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jjjrmx5

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Thanks. I'll have to call em and see what the skinny is. Hard to believe autozone don't have them... then again..

Looks like 774-xxxx is the new prefix for 2013 based upon Goggle.

Still well within your price range for each set and they do have lifetime warranty w/invoice, and if they balk, you can get the individual pieces ordered in from any local NAPA out of pocket for cheap.

:thumbup:
 
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