Cupped header

[RetiredandBusy]

I built headers (2x12) for my garage doors, but of course they are cupped. Would the cupped side (meaning convex) go toward the inside or outside?

I meant when mounted above the door. They are cupped in the same direction with a multitude of nails.

 

[BillK]

How did you build them ? Are they glued together ? If not I would take them apart and switch one of the 2x12's so that the cupped sides are towards each other and then put it back together with glue.

 

[Zeke]

Yes, reverse the boards so any internal forces acting on the wood are opposed. Consider a few bolts. Are you sandwiching a length of ply in the center?

I re read the question. You are asking which way to face the defect during installation. I have no idea. I'd plane them flat.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

I have a 1/2" plywood sandwiched between. I was able to get my inspector to weigh in- he said it didn't matter.

 

[RetiredandBusy]

How did you build them ? Are they glued together ? If not I would take them apart and switch one of the 2x12's so that the cupped sides are towards each other and then put it back together with glue.

There's no taking them apart. I have lots of nails on both sides. I have put the cups opposing like you say only to have one split when clamped together.

 

[Bucko]

I've got 2 rules when getting lumber.
1- I pick out my own
2- I leave the stack looking better than when I found it.

If you start with junk wood it will fight you all the way.

If I had to choose one of your 2 options I would put the bow to the inside. Your door trim will square the outside up and give you a clean line. As long as your door trim extends to the inside so you have a straight line for you garage door to seal up to if all that makes sense.

Recently needed some 2x8x10's and the whole bunk was molded. Nothing else in the overhead so I asked for a price match to the 2x8x12's which ended up working great for making alot of my blocking with the scraps.

 

[rayra]

I'd do them again with better wood. <$80 a door? I would not want to fight cupped lumber in such a location.

 

[dfiler2]

Lay a straight edge across them and see how much it really is. As far as which way to put them it shouldn't matter, you can run a thin shim down the middle or on each edge if it makes you feel better. I would not even consider not using them especially when it didn't concern the inspector. I really don't think you are going to be fighting any problem with the sheathing or the drywall.

 

[The Cobbler]

all lumber is cupped, warped or twisted to some degree . unless it's major I wouldn't worry .your inspector didn't worry , you're good to go

 

[The Cobbler]

..... I'd plane them flat.

now you're altering the dimension , that's going to cause an issue very likely

 

[nadogail]

Pass the lumber through your thickness planer.

 

[larry4406]

The planer won’t like the nails.

 

[billconner]

It seems like the mounting of the garage door is they potential problem, but might be easily solved with shimming.

 

[CraigStu]

I am not sure how the 1/2 ply will react between them but I'd put them both in the same direction. I would want them to fit well together so the glue gets spread out evenly. I don't think it is a good idea to try to make them change their shape w/ fasteners. For the rest of their life they will be under a stress so, if they don't split now, they will in the future.

 

[CTyankee]

If the cupping was so bad you couldn't oppose and pull them together without them splitting, I wouldn't have used them myself. I get it's hard to find decent dimension lumber these days..even more so in the wider sizes. IMO it's gotten to the point now matter ones skill level, the use of engineered materials is needed to produce quality work. It's a wallet buster for sure, but the fact that every type/size of dimensional lumber is now available in engineered stuff shows that better option is gaining popularity in the trades.

 

[Showkey]

It’s rough construction………..how bad can it be ? Especially after sheaving and siding ?
Shim the sheaving ?

 

[Zeke]

now you're altering the dimension , that's going to cause an issue very likely

Right. I'd add back using a ply skin. But it sounds too late, so be it.

 

[The Cobbler]

ply doesn't add to structure , at least here it doesn't .it's only a spacer for dimensions

 

[HenryAZ]

If I just had to use cupped boards like that, I would have ripped them to take out some of the cup, say at 6.75"/4.5", then staggered the joints when nailing them together.

 

[The Cobbler]

^^ and that is no longer stamped graded lumber, very likely to fail inspection

 

[Blk88GT]

How much are we talking about here?

 

[RetiredandBusy]

How much are we talking about here?

1/8 to 1/4 inch.

 

[The Cobbler]

nothing to worry about

 

[Bretny]

1/8 to 1/4 inch.

That's nothing. Its rough framing.

Also nails dont resist pull out. Screws do. Add some screws and sink them in good.

 

[Uncle murph]

That's nothing. Its rough framing.

Also nails dont resist pull out. Screws do. Add some screws and sink them in good.

I have several broken flat bars and at least one broken cats paw that say otherwise.Some nails will actually lose their head without yielding.

 

[HalfTonTom]

****! When I saw "cupped" and "header" I thought this was a different kind of thread.