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Curing and sealing floor

capt2130

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Dec 10, 2010
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St Louis/Table Rock Lake, MO
I am pouring my floors next week. I planned on putting a cure on them after they are poured and then saw cutting. Figured it would be better to do that way to keep dust out of the cure. The plan is to seal them after 28 days. Does this all sound ok? Do the expansion joints typically get filled before the sealer goes on. Anyone have any suggestions on what products to use? Looking for a good shine and something durable. This will be for a 42x60 garage with a living qtrs. Thanks for your help.
 
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ConCretin

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You should saw cut your control joints as soon as possible after placement. Concrete is most susceptible to cracking as it 'dries' and has not gained much strength. Just vac up the dust when you are done.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Concentrate on the cure for now.
Anything that will last on the surface needs to be applied after 30 days.

However, you could have your mason (or you) spray with a densifier. This will help slow water transmission. Slowing water transmission during the curing process lets the moisture out slowly, good preventative medicine to avoid surface cracking/crazing.

Same goes for the joint fill. Save for later.

Good luck.
 

ConCretin

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I planned on putting a cure on them after they are poured and then saw cutting.

Sorry. I may have misunderstood. When you said cure, I assumed you meant a 7 day cure, which is too late for sawcutting. Re-reading your post, its seems you are planning to apply curing compound.

If it were me, I'd moist cure the slab then apply a good quality sealer down the road as LegacyIndustrial suggests. I'm not a big fan or cure and seal products - they don't do either very well.
 
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Edger

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Melbourne Australia
Curing sealers do protect the slab from new however they are not highly durable for traffic and need to be removed if you want to apply a better one later. Removal is time consuming and expensive. Soffcut saws now owned by Husqvarna allow for early entry sawing of joints while the slab is still green which is an advantage if you can organize a contractor with one or better still, a concrete contractor with one.
 
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capt2130

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Dec 10, 2010
Messages
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St Louis/Table Rock Lake, MO
Thanks for the feedback. I'd like to wet cure the floor instead of using a compound. But I don't have the well dug yet. That's a couple weeks off. Unless I use the neighbors. What spacing/grid is typical for saw cutting. 10x10?? I think I'd like something smaller in the living area. Any thoughts or recommendations?
 

LegacyIndustrial

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From our web-site:
3. Siliconate Sealers (densifier: HD 7939) – Like silicate sealers, these sealers work by creating a permanent chemical change in the concrete, forming a new, sealed chemistry. Siliconates have larger molecules and offer more surface protection. Siliconates are fast reactive when they meet the concrete therefore remaining at the top of the substrate. Siliconate sealers are the perfect choice when your primary objectives are reducing moisture absorption, reducing freeze/thaw damage and stain penetration. Siliconates dry within the concrete, thereby not changing the appearance or the texture of the concrete surface. They can also be used as a cure for freshly poured concrete. They cure by retarding moisture but still allow the concrete to breath. Siliconates have multiple applications – they can be used on bare concrete walls or stucco to keep moisture from soaking through paint and to allow the paint to last longer. Siliconates can be used on sidewalks, driveways, parking lots, etc. to reduce cracking, staining, and freeze/thaw damage. Overall, this is the sealer we believe works the best for the majority of applications on broom finish or trowel finish concrete.
 

ConCretin

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Thanks for the feedback. I'd like to wet cure the floor instead of using a compound. But I don't have the well dug yet. That's a couple weeks off. Unless I use the neighbors. What spacing/grid is typical for saw cutting. 10x10?? I think I'd like something smaller in the living area. Any thoughts or recommendations?

For crack control, I think you'd be fine with two cuts in the long direction and three the short way. That would give you 14 x 15 panels. More than that is fine if you like the look.

You don't need a lot of water for your cure. Wet it down and cover tightly with poly.
 
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