Curious about this..

[ARbuilder223]

I have epoxy on my garage floor with tuxedo flakes, does any know if epoxy will work on plywood? Id like to put epoxy/flakes on my countertops in the garage with a few clear coats so it would match the floor. The countertops will not be worked on continuosly, so hopefully the epoxy will do fine if im able to use it. Any advise would help..thanks!

 

[dcs Inc]

Is the plywood clean? You need to make sure the plywood is secure. Also the **** joints need to be taken care of if you want a seamless top. It will take 3 coats. first coat is to lock down the plywood and let it saturate into the wood. second coat would be a colored epoxy that you throw your chips into. Last coat would be a clear coat to protect your chips. Make sure you scrape/sand your chip application to knock down the high chips before applying top coat.

I offer a couple classes each year on counter tops and vertical hand carving. Don't often apply chips on a top as I show making it look like a slab of stone.
gene Elite Crete of Indiana

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Excellent application. Follow Gene's instruction above.
The only change I would make is to go ahead and make your first coat the receiver coat, apply a flexible high solids @ 100 sq ft per gallon, load it up with chips. I would make this change as it is a workbench and this will save you some money.

You second/top coat can be 100% solids clear or polyaspartic clear.

 

[dcs Inc]

You will lose some depth of your epoxy on it saturating into the wood. Also if there's any moisture in the plywood it could cause outgasing and screw up your finish. I like rolling a thin layor as a primer first to lock down the base. If you forgo the "primer" coat, have a heat gun near by to heat up any bubbles so they will pass. gene elite Crete of Indiana

 

[ARbuilder223]

Nice..thanks guys! it will be all new plywood. how many clear coats would i need? also will any "floor" epoxy work? ive seen the countertop stuff at lowes..whick shoult i use? the countertop will be roughhly 30' x 25"

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Depends on what type of clear you use and what your surface expectations are.
Generally you need two coats for good coverage.

Can't speak to the Big Box kits.

 

[jdaallen]

Nice..thanks guys! it will be all new plywood. how many clear coats would i need? also will any "floor" epoxy work? ive seen the countertop stuff at lowes..whick shoult i use? the countertop will be roughhly 30' x 25"

I had bought the Quikrete floor kit for a garage but moved and didn't use it. Built a new storage shed with treated plywood floor at the new house. I thought what the heck so used the Quikrete kit on the treated plywood. This is my "garden/yard" shed so gets a lot of use with lawn mowers, snow blowers and rototillers. Been 3 years now and floor looks like new. I hose it down when it gets muddy and leave the door open to dry and so far so good.

 

[ARbuilder223]

Ok good...i feel better about using it for a countertop then!...thanks again! ill post pix on my garage build thread when completed.

 

[rugerlady]

I have a Counter-Coat kit available. It has a base coat the flakes and 2 coats of clear. Let me know if you would like more information on it.

 

[ARbuilder223]

Sure do! thanks

 

[Cruzin90]

Just my opinion, but if you get grade C plywood and it expands/contracts too much, it's going to crack the epoxy. You should get grade A plywood and keep it under temperature control.

 

[dcs Inc]

B/C pywood is good. 3/4" mdf is also good. That is what I use for my counter tops. Note, be sure to coat the whole board if using mdf. It swells like crazy if it gets wet. I will precoat it with a thin layer of epoxy to encapsulate all sides.
gene Elite Crete of Indiana

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Here is a little blog article that touches on wood as a floor medium. Our experience with wood has been favorable and if the application is correct is a good substrate for epoxy.
http://legacyindustrial.blogspot.com/2010/01/coating-wood-floor-with-epoxy-coatings.html

 

[Cruzin90]

Here is a little blog article that touches on wood as a floor medium. Our experience with wood has been favorable and if the application is correct is a good substrate for epoxy.
http://legacyindustrial.blogspot.com/2010/01/coating-wood-floor-with-epoxy-coatings.html

Yea, but they put down 15 mils of primer and 20 mils of epoxy!

 

[ARbuilder223]

i bought the cabinet grade plywood, im just wanting to use grey concrete epoxy / flakes / clear to match the floor. i figure ill need to put down 1 coat of epoxy. let dry..then another coat / flakes..correct?

 

[dcs Inc]

I'd sand the plywood, wipe off with denatured alcohol so you are not introducing any water to the wood. Apply a thin coat of epoxy, let dry. Sand lightly and do a final wipe and clean. Apply colored base coat evenly. It doesn't have to be thick, just even. Place your flakes on wet epoxy and let dry. Once dry, scrape off loose chips, wipe clean and apply clear coat.

Joints: Take a V blade type grinder (crack chaser blade) and open up the joint a little. Pour epoxy into joint and level out. Let dry. Sand to even and then start the application stated above.

Top clear coat can be a polyaspartic for better scratch resistance. You can also apply a clear coat of Aliphatic urethane on top of your clear coat of epoxy for better scratch resistance. I'd just wait and see how well your top coat holds up before spending the extra cash.

Yes, you can cut corners here..... just telling you how I do my counter tops. Your mileage is going to vary with the type of epoxies you use.

Oh, nice build on your "fun house". gene

www.elitecreteindiana.com
www.indycrete.com
[email protected]

 

[ARbuilder223]

Thanks!..i spoke to Rustoleum this morning..just to ask to see if they recommend using their floor epoxy on wood. ( dont want to waste money if it will not work) the tech said that many have done it, and turned out great. But they will not recommend it due to the fact that the wood will breathe..possibly leading to crakes / flaking up the epoxy. well guys? what do you think? is it worth a $200 chance? or do you think itll be fine and roll with it? thanks again..

 

[ARbuilder223]

Also...would the 1part epoxy be fine? or do i need to go with the 2 part epoxy / clear coats?

 

[Cruzin90]

In regards to your specific project:

If the wood is not temperature controlled and kept dry, I vote no. As soon as the wood expands, it will crack the epoxy. Epoxy does not have good elongation and the epoxy will not prevent the wood from expanding.

If the wood is good quality, temperature controlled, and kept dry, then I vote yes.

 

[dcs Inc]

Here's where I get into trouble. I haven't a clue on what a 1 part epoxy is. We offer a water based epoxy but it still has 2 parts. If you are talking a paints, NO. They don't wet out much and become just a topical that will delaminate.

 

[ARbuilder223]

well from what i understand, i think it is a pre-mix. Cheap home depot $27 per gallon

 

[dcs Inc]

Epoxies have a 2 part system. One part is the solids the other is the catalyst. The catalyst creates a chemical reaction to activate the mix. This reaction (heat) causes it to harden. The other so called epoxy paints have a couple of the ingredients in them so they can call them "epoxy". It's night and day. Now where the problem becomes is if you apply a "box store" epoxy as a base coat, will the "real" epoxy product adhere to it. Even if it does, you have applied a weak link to your project that may fail and all your efforts go out the drain because what ever you applied over the "box" **** goes belly up. Every thing above it can, (will) fail also.

Here is when I feel like a salesman. And believe me, there's a lot of salesman on this board attempting attempting to sell you the next the next best thing to peanut butter. I'm not trying to blow you any bull. I'm also not trying to sell you my stuff because I require training so you don't screw it up. Just attempting to let you guys know there's good, bad and ugly in this market. I'm also trying to educate some of these guys on here selling that is isn't as easy as they let on to be. gene

www.elitecreteindiana.com
www.indycrete.com
[email protected]

 

[Cruzin90]

Well, no, that's not totally correct.

The "solids" is a resin, either bisphenol A or bisphenol F. The "hardener" or "curing agent" can be of several chemicals but they typically contain an amine (but there are some non-amine curing agents). The hardener is not a catalyst. The chemical reaction is exothermic, meaning it gives off energy in the form of heat. The curing of epoxy is not by heat.

I don't want to sound mean, but you sell epoxy and you don't know what it is?

 

[tncatadjuster]

Well, no, that's not totally correct.

The "solids" is a resin, either bisphenol A or bisphenol F. The "hardener" can be of several chemicals but they typically contain an amine. The hardener is not a catalyst. The chemical reaction is exothermic, meaning is give off energy in the form of heat. The curing of epoxy is not by heat.

 

[ARbuilder223]

thanks to all again..my floor was done in ucoat it if im not mistaken...but for the countertop, im going to go ahead and get the rustoleum kit (2 part)from lowes for price, like 100 for kit, then 100 for the 2 part clear kit. i dont need that much!! it is only 60sf roughly. anyone have any adive on best kit for me size wise? thanks again

 

[thegarageguy]

We have applied and even repaired incorrect applied epoxy floors over a wood substrate. 2 plys of pre treated or exterior grade 3/4 inch tongue and groove plywood is ideal is what we would specify to an owner or gc prior to application.

The key thing in to address the seams properly. Typically, we fiberglass reinforce the seams , then prime with a flexible resin, like Legacy has suggested, then apply the finish, chips, quartz or designer epoxy.

Here is an example of the improper plywood and application

Here is what it looks like after it's redone properly;
Main area - Satin Finish

Back Training area - High Gloss

 

[ARbuilder223]

well ill post some pix later. i have 2 pcs of 3/4" ply. top piece is cabinet grade. would the use of wood filler/puddy not work on the seams? my shop is in a climate controled enviroment

 

[thegarageguy]

would the use of wood filler/puddy not work on the seams? my shop is in a climate controled enviroment

No, wood filler will not flex enough to withstand the constant expansion and contraction of your wood, regardless of climate controll. It''l crack and crumble and will cause the coating to fail. Stick with an approved flex patch from whichever manufacturer you choose to use.

 

[ARbuilder223]

Garageguy...do you carry a reasonably priced kit that i would need to complete this? there will be gaps that will need to be filled in before the epoxy. Also like i said, it is only about 60sf and need clearcoat..

 

[thegarageguy]

I'm sorry but I am an installer not a seller of products

 

[ARbuilder223]

ok..thanks

 

[dcs Inc]

Well, no, that's not totally correct.

The "solids" is a resin, either bisphenol A or bisphenol F. The "hardener" or "curing agent" can be of several chemicals but they typically contain an amine (but there are some non-amine curing agents). The hardener is not a catalyst. The chemical reaction is exothermic, meaning it gives off energy in the form of heat. The curing of epoxy is not by heat.

I don't want to sound mean, but you sell epoxy and you don't know what it is?

Well my apologies for dumbing down. We can discuss aliphatic and cycloaliphatic amines, cross-linking and covalent bonds, (which by the way you are correct that heat is a bye product of the copolymers.

I am also sure if you have a chemistry background, I could learn a thing or three. I stand corrected and wont dumb it up again. I do know the products I use and sell but would be a fool to say I know it all. gene

www.elitecreteindiana.com
www.indycrete.com
[email protected]

 

[ARbuilder223]

Dcs Inc...do you know of a kit that would be best suited for me? 60sf..or do i need to go with the little rustoleum kit from lowes?

 

[Cruzin90]

Dcs Inc...do you know of a kit that would be best suited for me? 60sf..or do i need to go with the little rustoleum kit from lowes?

I'm not DCS, but if you want to put down 10 mils, which is about the thickness of a coating for a floor, then you will need about 1/2 gallon total assuming the product is 100% solids. If the product contains solvents, then you need to adjust for that because the solvents evaporate away.

The Lowes kit is what...a one gallon kit?

 

[ARbuilder223]

Yea i think so...suppose to cover up to 250 sf

 

[Cruzin90]

Spread a gallon (100% solids) over 250 sqft, the thickness above the substrate would be about 2 to 2.5 mils assuming 15% waste factor and 3 mils soaking into the substrate. That's pretty darn thin.

One one-gallon kit is plenty for your 60 sqft.

 

[dcs Inc]

Dcs Inc...do you know of a kit that would be best suited for me? 60sf..or do i need to go with the little rustoleum kit from lowes?

Sorry for the late reply. I have a class tomorrow and was setting up for that. I would go with the brand you are topping with. I'm a big fan of keeping everything in the same family. Saying that, Crusin90 gave some good advice. I'm not a fan of rustoleum by the way. I've ground a lot of that stuff off.

Prep is the major here so spend some efforts on getting your concrete opened up. Don't stretch a gallon 250 feet. Thats crazy thin. Elite Crete Systems epoxies are self priming but I apply a thin base coat anyway to lock down the slab.

Not sure what application you are going with but a tinted primer coat may the way to go. What ever is applied, degloss it before applying your top coat. gene

www.elitecreteindiana.com
www.indycrete.com
[email protected]

 

[dcs Inc]

Just reread the thread. We are talking about going over wood substrate for a counter top? Use the same product you are using for the top coat as a primer. Roll it out thin and watch for dull areas. This will be where it is saturating into the grain. Keep rolling it till it has an even shine. Can't vouch for the product you are using but the stuff I play with has a 45 minute application window.

A lot of guys I train like spreading silica sand to rejection into the "primer " coat. Sweep off excess when dry then apply the top coat with the metallics additives, Reflector Enhancer.

The counter above was the first top one of my students installed. She was happy as the customer was thrilled. gene

www.elitecreteindiana.com
www.indycrete.com
[email protected]

 

[ARbuilder223]

Guys..finally finished the countertop, noe thinking of just painting them..i thought the epoxy would be a cool idea, but didnt think as far as cracking / etc..look at my garage build and give me feed back on how it came out.

 

[ARbuilder223]

Ok ok..should of went with my gut on this one. I applied Behr high gloss paint to the countertop /sanded / painted / sanded..etc.. came out really slick. during curing process seemed to seperate a bit. I cant really explain, all i know is that when i got home yesterday it looked like ****!! so back to square 1!! Now wife wants to buy the rustoleum epoxy kit from Lowes and go over the paint, so the flakes would hide any blemishes. Can i do this?? ive gave it a good sanding with 80 grit. Would the epoxy bond to the pre-painted surface? also the last coat of paint was applied 3 days ago..would i need to wait to put on the epoxy?