kythri
Well-known member
What's the current hotness as far as an air hammer, these days. I need/want a new one, and curious what ya'll would recommend.
Current Hotness - Air Hammers?
- Thread starter kythri
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Walkers
Well-known member
What do you need to do with it?
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
This. Big nasty is nice for whacking on wheel bearings. Not going to use it to unscrew rotten exhaust hardware.
nadogail
Well-known member
I have a Pneumatic Chisel that makes a lot of noise when opening steel drums and chipping stucco, concrete and the occaisionl weld.
zkdiesel
Well-known member
I used my big nasty Mac one to unscrew trans pan bolts the other night after the 8mm heads wouldn’t come out with a 6.5mm twist socket
Needs: to bang on stuff? Don’t really know how to answer this.
My current POS got used today with a pointed bit to love-tap the rear end of my Crown Vic driveline and unseat it from the pinion.
It was then used to drift the u-joints out of said driveline, unsuccessfully - just seemed anemic, power-wise, and since it’s a no-name that I forget where I got it, I figured it was time to buy something decent and reliable.
I obviously don’t use an air hammer all that often, so I don’t need the best of the best, but figured I’d query here to see what’s good.
TTC seems to really like the IR 119MAX which seems priced nicely (about the same as the HF Chief Professional Long Barrel), so maybe I’ll look that way.
The Astro “Bug Nasty” is a .498 shank instead of the “standard” .401 shank - dunno if that means .401 stuff is incompatible with the .498 gun, or just that .498 stuff won’t fit a .401 gun?
My current POS got used today with a pointed bit to love-tap the rear end of my Crown Vic driveline and unseat it from the pinion.
It was then used to drift the u-joints out of said driveline, unsuccessfully - just seemed anemic, power-wise, and since it’s a no-name that I forget where I got it, I figured it was time to buy something decent and reliable.
I obviously don’t use an air hammer all that often, so I don’t need the best of the best, but figured I’d query here to see what’s good.
TTC seems to really like the IR 119MAX which seems priced nicely (about the same as the HF Chief Professional Long Barrel), so maybe I’ll look that way.
The Astro “Bug Nasty” is a .498 shank instead of the “standard” .401 shank - dunno if that means .401 stuff is incompatible with the .498 gun, or just that .498 stuff won’t fit a .401 gun?
WWheeler
Well-known member
+1 for Big Nasty. It's a big dog .498 shank and wants a LOT of air though. Make sure you have a compressor up to the task.
FWIW Big Nasty does have a big brother named Thor now though. I can't even imagine TBH. It must be dangerous AF and wreck bits in minutes. It's only been released so far in limited quanitities and has been 'unavailable'to most for some time now (just like the 'Thor' impact I did manage to get a hold of)
FWIW Big Nasty does have a big brother named Thor now though. I can't even imagine TBH. It must be dangerous AF and wreck bits in minutes. It's only been released so far in limited quanitities and has been 'unavailable'to most for some time now (just like the 'Thor' impact I did manage to get a hold of)
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Professional Tool User
Well-known member
It really depends on what you plan to do with it. A short barrel air hammer is more compact if you don't need anything heavy duty.
Lotek
Well-known member
I/R...when you need to move metal...
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
A 498 hammer will not use 401 shank bits. 498 hammers are a totally different animal and the price reflects that. The Astro 498 is like $250, no bits, no quick chuck. Trigger is an on/off switch. 498s will also make a normal air hammer look like a toy.
It sounds like you need a basic long barrel air hammer.
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
Out of curiosity do you have high flow couplers at all points between the current air hammer and the compressor?
Iridium rand
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Correct, .498 and .401 are different sizes. You can however use an adapter which in my experience works just fine, though you will occasionally break .401 bits using them in a big bore .498 gun. Bit selection is very limited and expensive in .498 so i suggest having an adapter on hand if you want to go for a big boy.
as far as yours if it’s anemic it’s probably a short barrel no-name noisemaker, you want a long barrel it’s night and day no matter which one you get, but strongly recommend the 119max on the basis of power, cost and trigger control it nails all three extremely well. If you want a .498 my suggestion is grab a used rivet gun (functionally identical, better trigger control than those sold as automotive air hammers) off ebay or yardstore, best bang for your buck and negligible worry of getting one with problems since air hammers are among the most simple and durable air tools known to man
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
If you need something that hits really hard, you need a .498 hammer, like the one from Astro. Expensive and so are the bits.
In the .401 range, the Harbor Freight Chief is a great bang for the buck !
In the .401 range, the Harbor Freight Chief is a great bang for the buck !
dnschmidt
Well-known member
I have a bunch of air hammers, including big nasty, which due to my location, Phoenix, AZ, I've never needed to take out of its box. The I-R recommended by the Torque Test Channel is a great choice, I have the exact same hammer sold under the brand name Pneustream way back when which I bought for a good price. Unless you need to "get medieval on its ***" to quote Marcus from Pulp Fiction this I-R is the best deal. I also have a Chicago Pneumatic CP715 that’s I’m pretty fond of as well. Apparently, the Chief is a good gun but has zero feathering ability which in my opinion is a problem as you lose control without it.
Odd-job
Well-known member
Life is all about tool variety according to GJ. Have a .498 Aircat, long barrel .401 Carlyle, and a short barrel .401 Chicago Pneumatic.
.498 is good for stuff that you want to conquer and die at least before whipping out the torch. Whereas the short barrel is better for tight places and since its weak sauce a Mayhew shake and break lives on it.
I think I saw a .498 to .401 adapter, but then thought better of it.
.498 is good for stuff that you want to conquer and die at least before whipping out the torch. Whereas the short barrel is better for tight places and since its weak sauce a Mayhew shake and break lives on it.
I think I saw a .498 to .401 adapter, but then thought better of it.
RedneckWelder
Well-known member
I have the 119’s predecessor the 118. I couldn’t ask for better. There are more powerful (like the big nasty) but a good 119 is going to be very powerful for a .401 shank air hammer while still being about as controllable as an air hammer can get. I use mine a lot for removing stripped out level check plugs, cutting off hardware, walking out stripped out torx bolts and so on but it also does some brute force work pretty well…I’ve used it to loosen up seized hydraulic cylinder glands.
Why does no one have a cordless "air" hammer?
It seems physically possible and I want one. I realize it might end up with a little bulk and less power. I don't care - if they can give me at least short-barrel power, I'm in.
It seems physically possible and I want one. I realize it might end up with a little bulk and less power. I don't care - if they can give me at least short-barrel power, I'm in.
speed bump
Well-known member
I like my CP714 because it has a adjustable trigger and decent power. I don't think it's worth $300 new but used they aren't bad.
Otherwise I would probably just buy a used rivet gun off the yard store.
Otherwise I would probably just buy a used rivet gun off the yard store.
speed bump
Well-known member
Roto hammer in hammer only mode.
Ok, that's fair - but surely they could make something smaller than that if it doesn't need to spin.
speed bump
Well-known member
The only non-spinning one is the MX fuel breaker and that is exactly the opposite of what you are asking for.
Iridium rand
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Many have asked the same question, It’s a far more complex design concept (air hammer is literally a slug in a tube with two holes in it) since you need to convert rotary motion to linear, have it reciprocate very fast and and hit very hard. It’s been done with rotary hammers of course but they’re absolutely enormous compared to an air hammer and quite expensive. Hard to imagine how you could do it in a much smaller package with decent striking force.
only way i could imagine is cutting out the motor and doing it like a gauss cannon/railgun, but I’m not sure those could be made to reciprocate quickly, be energy efficient enough to run on battery or cost effective
Why not a piston-like design? E.g. have the electric motor spin the "crank" and move a piston back and forth rapidly, contacting the chisel at the end of each stroke. I imagine something cordless drill-sized.
Iridium rand
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That actually is how rotary hammers work already, the biggest thing really is the fact that you need that AND a beefy motor to turn it, a cordless drill sized motor cannot provide that kind of force and you need to add a robust piston mechanism on top of that, so essentially you’re looking at XL drill + piston mechanism + battery
with pneumatic tools on the other hand, not only do they not need the power source directly attached to the tool, they also don’t need to convert rotary to linear force so you don’t need a motor or battery attached, only the piston. If you scaled the whole thing down to cordless drill size you’d be looking at less power than your average (useless) short barrel air hammer at still more than twice the size of that, hence the craftsman hammerhead or the ryobi version that can barely do the only thing they’re advertised for which is hammer a small nail into wood
BmwTechZiggy
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Ive been really liking my IR 119max. has done everything ive asked of it with little issue.
vssjim
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have Cp 710 CP 714 Cp 717 and Astro 4980 The 710 is an older model that will get you started with muffler and sheet metal work and it was inexpensive and US made. The 714 has the finest trigger system and feel of any 401 shank hammer and is high quality also. The two 498 shanks make **** happen period, no chief or snap on anything will touch what a 498 shank tool will move ever.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Cp714 is my daily user. I rattle out frozen slide pins, unscrew glowing exhaust nuts, drive axles out of hubs, joint and wheel bearing snap rings, and have used it on things as silly as separating AC lines and knocking corrosion out of aluminum through holes. The finesse available is astounding, but the price makes it out of reach or use for most non pros. By the time you have a quick chuck and a couple bits you're well into the 400s.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Just means you can use a 110 powered air compressor. Lol
I have the Chief buy Harbor Freight. It is the same one as Matco. The Chief out performed the Snap On and is one third the price. It is the full size and when you pull the trigger you had better hang on. Long barrel 4 inch stroke. Model CH 401LB Cost is now $139.
HF Chief isn't the same as Matco. WOT force is comparable, but not feathering ability. Granted, that might not matter, but it's not the "same", by definition. TTC shows the trigger mechanism is different between the two, and the testing displays that. Again, that might not matter, but it's not the same. The Chief may have outperformed SO at WOT, I'm not going to check, but again, SO has better low force deliverability, like Matco, if you need that and only want one gun. If you just want a bazooka, then Chief is the best for the $, no disputing that, but it is not the same/better than the others.
Which Matco? Which Snap On?
The Torque Test Channel provides some compelling evidence to show that the Chief CH401LB virtually the same thing as a Mac MPH1911 (save they have different trigger assemblies) for about a third of the cost, but their subsequent video shows that the Matco MT2916 and Snap On PH3050B both beat out the Chief (as well as the Mac and the IR 119MAX).
The IR 119MAX seems to not only be better than the Chief CH401LB, but also cheaper.
Not saying the Chief is a bad tool - it seems to be quite a great one - and if it was appreciably cheaper than the IR, I’d probably have already bought one from my local HF, but the IR beating it in price, coupled with the frankly ****** trigger on the Chief, makes the IR seem like a no-brainer.
Iridium rand
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Funny you mention that, that’s the exact same model I haveChanged my mind, I'm going to get this air hammer:
if you’re looking for a .498 model now or in the future after the 119 it’s actually a fantastic value going the yardstore route, they should still have some or similar models on the “surplus” page for sub $200, full blast can turn a 1/2” clevis pin into a pancake (rated for 1/2” rivets) and trigger easily scales anywhere between that to what feels like flicking your hand
It is the similar to the MAC Tools air hammer, not the Matco.
That being said, I picked up the IR 119MAX for best cost vs. power ratio. Snap On is probably the best all around .401 shank.
VolvoRyan
Well-known member
I have the 118, too. The 119 was just rolling out, but not yet available and I couldn't wait. I *LOVE* the 118, and the 119 fixes some teething problems the 118 supposedly has.
To the OP, for automotive, you want a long barrel air hammer. I'd argue that you need a good .401 before you add a .498. There's lots more stuff you can put in a .401 since it's been around forever.
The TTC does a good job evaluating these. You want whoop-***.... but finesse can be just as valuable. No good when things turn into a Three-Stooges routine every time you pull the trigger.
-Ryan