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Currently have oil for heating, thinking about switching

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66HertzClone

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My dad and I were discussing this yesterday, the pros and cons of changing the NG. The cons disappeared when he offered to pay for the $7500 hook up cost. I'm now going to start looking at NG boilers and searching for a competent installer for the brand of equipment I select.

I will go back and read deeper, but I read somewhere that high efficiency boilers aren't actually high efficiency in some areas due to outside temps. I will need to look at a combi-unit or get a hot water heater as the current boiler serves both functions. Anybody have any recommendations? I have read some reviews that say the Bosch equipment is pretty good provided the installer is familiar with the equipment and follows the instructions on proper set up.
 
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mike93lx

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You need to get whatever is supported in your area. Talk to local installers to see what is available, then dig into details.

Getting something that might be "better" but not easily supported will **** when it goes down in the winter.

That said, My Vitodens 200 has been fine for about 10 years. Quiet, efficient, works well.
 

mreisner

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Try to negotiate on price on the piping. 25 bucks a foot is nuts. They are getting a new customer out of the deal, long term once it is in.
 

yeldogt

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My dad and I were discussing this yesterday, the pros and cons of changing the NG. The cons disappeared when he offered to pay for the $7500 hook up cost. I'm now going to start looking at NG boilers and searching for a competent installer for the brand of equipment I select.

I will go back and read deeper, but I read somewhere that high efficiency boilers aren't actually high efficiency in some areas due to outside temps. I will need to look at a combi-unit or get a hot water heater as the current boiler serves both functions. Anybody have any recommendations? I have read some reviews that say the Bosch equipment is pretty good provided the installer is familiar with the equipment and follows the instructions on proper set up.

It's not the outside temp ... it's the water temp.

Modern modulating wall boilers have a small amount of water around a combustion chamber. The only way to get above mid 80% efficiencies is to use a secondary heat exchanger and pass the flue gases though that second exchanger. This reduces the temp of the flue gas (that normally would go up the chimney) -- this is how they get up to 96%. This exchange cooling is done with return water. In a radiant system -- since the water is not very hot to begin with the water coming back is cool enough to cool this flue gas. That's why they call them "condensing" -- that's what they are doing ... and lots of water comes out of the gas -- burning NG makes CO2 and H2O. A forced air furnace has no problems ... as the return air is cold and can easily cool the second exchanger.

Older type boilers had simple burners under heat exchangers -- some cast iron ...others used copper fin coils. As advancements came along -- they added fan induced combustion to those units -- this allowed for outside air make-up to be used ... preferable in a tight house.

Many old houses use high mass heat exchangers - CI radiators or baseboard ... they are sized based on very hot water. Same with copper fin tube ... often 180 degrees minimum. Also the old CI boilers did not like cold return water. So the systems ran at 180 degrees ... in the NE USA .... since the boiler was running most of the time they would install a coil and heat the hot water that way.

When you go to a modern wall hung condensing boiler -- they often max out under 180 degrees. So you have to be careful of the sizing of the radiation ... if you need 180 to stay warm in the coldest time of the year .. you may not have it.
Also -- since you have all this very hot water -- the return water coming back to the boiler is not hot enough to "condense" in the wall boiler ... so you don't get all of those savings.


The above is why I kept the old style boilers in my Chestnut Hill Home. The house was all CI radiators -- lots of water. Needed high temps when it got cold out .. the basement was a basement. The house was built in 1905 -- so it leaked.

I had no need for induced combustion. Mine have simple flue w/ vent damper. Buderus CI boilers are special in that they can take colder return water -- so they can be set up for outdoor reset. It's a shame -- the older CI boilers are going away in the name of efficiency .. but the savings in many old house situations are small.

You need to do a heat load on the building and figure out the radiation .. what you have and what temp water it needs. You have a history with the oil burner -- so you can guess on the efficiency and do a conversion to NG cost.

If you are going to spend 2k a year on gas .... and the potential saving going to 96% are 10-12 percent ... What's $225 ? I was looking at maybe 300-400 savings .. and the equipment was 10-12k more at the start. That's a 30 year payback -- and no wall hung is going to last 30 years w/o service .. and replacement. The old school CI boilers will make 30 years. My first Buderus install is still going strong from 1994 .. new relay and vent damper motor ($400 in parts) .. the system has needed other maintenance (circulators) .. but they go regardless of boiler. The boiler can also run an indirect tank.

I say the above .. because "new" is not always better.

I'm building a new house -- very tight (foam)... no space anyplace. Propane is my only fuel. The house will be all radiant -- so i am doing a wall hung in this house.
 
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66HertzClone

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I have spent $2471 with the fuel oil company since I bought the house in November, some of that was repair costs. A thermostat failed, had a problem with the circulator pump and some other stuff I can't remember. The boiler is original and the house was built in 1977, so it is due for replacement.

Fuel cost $1760.87 and repairs at $711.19.
 

yeldogt

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I have spent $2471 with the fuel oil company since I bought the house in November, some of that was repair costs. A thermostat failed, had a problem with the circulator pump and some other stuff I can't remember. The boiler is original and the house was built in 1977, so it is due for replacement.

Fuel cost $1760.87 and repairs at $711.19.

Do the conversion based on gas cost and what you paid in oil ... it was not a cold winter .. and you would have had some October usage.

what temp you kept the house ... etc. That will get you gas cost .... based on the oil units efficiency. If you had the unit serviced ..they may have given you an efficiency number based on flue temps. Whenever I switched -- the old oil was about 60%.

the biggest saving will just be switching the equipment and using the different fuel .. you have to decide if the last 10 percent is worth the cost.
 

Copymutt

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Colorado
Two homes. One is NG, other is Propane.
NG + no worries about running out.
no tank rental
no delivery scheduling
NG - Monthly base of $14.00 even in summer when not used.

Propane + here it’s cheaper than NG, but does vary
tank rental is a buck, if over 65, here
Can stock up when it’s cheap if large tank.

Propane - gotta keep snow removed for delivery and safety.
You may or may not like having the tank in your yard.
Tank and line can pose a hazard to be aware of w/ equipment.
 

86turbodsl

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The old school CI boilers will make 30 years. My first Buderus install is still going strong from 1994 .. new relay and vent damper motor ($400 in parts) .. the system has needed other maintenance (circulators) .. but they go regardless of boiler. The boiler can also run an indirect tank.

I say the above .. because "new" is not always better.
.

The Cast iron boiler i'm running in the shop is over 80 years old. Still works fine. Not efficient, but short of being nuked, i'm going to have heat out there.
 

Higgins

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Shepheardsville, KY
When we were looking at our property in TN, it had a 4T heat pump. The house was advertised as having a gas fireplace. No gas was found. As the LP tank had been removed.
It turned out that NG was down the road ~ 1,500 ft. To install gas from the corner would require installing 2" pipe up the hill. Cost to get NG to the house was $29K, so we went with LP. Installed new gas-top, dryer, new LP fireplace, and 30K wall heater in the lower level. So all is well. Fill tank 2 per yr. monthly cost is around $100 per month. Tank is buried out on the side of the house, and close to the road to fill. So all is good.
Twenty yrs down the road, the next owner may choose to bring in NG, but until then we're happy!!!
 

Adk Mike

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upstate NY
Can’t go wrong with a new Buduras Boiler and interdict water heater. On oil it’ll run just as cheap as Natural Gas. They are the best boiler made.
In propane it’s 91,400 btu’s Compared to 140,000 with oil.
That being said to win with propane own a big storage tank to minimize deliveries and contract all the winter gallons in the summer. I have propane and am upsizing to a 1000 tank very soon. It cost a lot to run trucks so large tank with infrequent deliveries is the way to go. With low summer pricing.
 
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66HertzClone

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The contract has arrived, to get the connection to my house will cost me $5486, much less than my guess based upon the $25 per extra foot he quoted me. So, I'm going to bite the bullet and go forward and get this done. I have to replace the 42 year old boiler that is in my basement barely hanging on.

After two weeks plus of reading I am not going to go with a high efficiency unit, the added cost of the required maintenance and higher cost of the unit itself just reduces my ability to recoup some of my investment. It was interesting to read how these systems do not work as well when the home has baseboard heat when compared to radiant or large capacity cast iron radiators.

I looked and read about the Energy Kinetics system 2000, it is a high efficiency system of a different design than many of the others. The reviews are mixed, some say that they have seen incredible savings others say a blow dryer could do a better job of heating than this system was . The Bosch systems look very good and have very positive reviews, except for those that had an installer that wasn't familiar with the intricacies of the high efficiency units or failed to communicate to the home owners how to use these systems correctly.

These HE systems circulate water at a lower temp than the standard boilers do, so recovery times are long, turning the thermostat down 15 degrees while you are working and bumping it back up when you return home will mean you will be having a very cool evening. As with most things the experience and knowledge of the installer has so much to do with the satisfaction of the home owner. Being able or even taking the time needed to carefully explain how these things work is key. I've got one company meeting me this evening for an estimate and another Wednesday evening. I am going to let both make suggestions on what I should do rather than say this is what I would like.
 

brewchief

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You are correct on the added cost of maintenance on a high efficiency boiler, basic yearly maintenance is about the same cost but the higher efficiency unit will cost more when electronic parts fail.

Proper near boiler piping is important, I am of the belief that the "pumping away" style is far better then what many guys do.

We almost always replace all zone valves and we will also replace and add ball valves wherever needed to mske system service easier in the future.

We replace the backflow and fill valve, add a micro bubble air separator, new expansion tank, low water cutoff, etc.

Make sure each quote that you get has the same stuff being replaced, one guy may be a bunch cheaper but is not replacing everything.

You may need a liner in your chimney, make sure that is looked at.

If you need to replace the indirect water heater and you don't have the need for large amounts of hot water then you might consider simply replacing it with a simple 50 gallon gas water heater. This will allow the boiler to completely shut down in the warm months.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
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mike93lx

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My veissman has a switch to turn off heating during the summer, plus a timer to only make domestic hot water at the times I specify. A storage tank holds plenty of hot water to bridge the gap. Don't think I would want two heating devices when one suffices
 
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66HertzClone

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The rep from Gold Medal came by last night and we discussed the change over, my basement is finished with a dry wall ceiling in the mail portion of the basement running the pipe for gas supply would be very complicated. We then looked at running up through the attic which is accessible and clear of anything except an air handler and flexible ductwork for the air conditioning. This sure seems like the right place for running the supply line. He said that they do not use zone valves as they are prone to failure, they use a circulator pump for each zone instead.

He strongly recommends the Weil Mclain ultra unit for my home, he cautioned me not to read the reviews that are on line as he stated most of those installs were done by people who are not properly trained. Well, of course I did read some and this unit doesn't seem to be all he boasted it was. He is going to work up some numbers for me today and get back to me with them.

I have another guy coming this afternoon to see what I have and what he recommends.
 

mike93lx

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Drywall is cheap and easy to repair. I would not run a gas line all the way to my attic just to avoid some minor repairs.
 

chrispyny

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albany, ny
My girlfriends last house had oil heat with hot steam radiators. Her sister and brother in law have a similar set up as well.

After that house, I vowed to NEVER own a home with oil heat. Dirty, loud, smelly, occasional expensive breakdowns, required yearly maintenance, and oil is expensive. There is NO REASON i can think of to own oil heat. I would tell you to do ANYTHING it takes to switch to anything else.

Her Brother in law says its time to replace the oil boiler. NG is at the street. It’s like 20’. I told him he’s NUTS if he doesn’t convert to NG. Now he supplements his heat with a wood stove in the dining room.

I’d definitely price out what it would cost to run the ng pipe to your house. That is quite a distance and i feel for you. But do not continue with oil heat.

If ng turns out to be too much, do what my sister did, propane, with a wood stove as a supplement.

My sister built her 2200 sf ranch on 2.5 acres in 2013. Central air with propane heat. i think it was 2014 or 15 when the central/northeast had a big ice storm and transit routes were effected. Propane couldn’t be distributed properly and it went up to like 4.80 a gal. THAT very next spring, my sister and brother in law put in a nice jotul wood stove.

As the house is new, it’s fairly air tight and the wood stove heats the whole house easily and is frugal with wood. They invested in a wood splitter and every few years get a tri-axle of log length delivered and go to town splitting wood.
Propane has never been as high since, but my sister loves the heat(my brother in law hates it) and she has that stove cranked high, very often. Happy wife, happy life.

See if you can work out that ng to the house. Trust me, your best option. Even with ng, you can supplement with a nice smaller wood stove. It helps tremendously. In my example i own a 1350 sf raised ranch, have ng hot water baseboard for heat, and i put in a jotul wood stove imsert imto the fireplace to make it usable.

Good luck.
 

yeldogt

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The Ultra is a condensing boiler? My memory is AL heat exchanger. It's not going to condense.

Where is the oil tank -- current boiler? Can't the gas line be routed and brought in there?

IMO -- they are not great for large capacity cast radiators either. It's very common for those big CI radiators to be oversized .. especially if any insulation was added .... this is almost never the case with copper fin tube baseboard. More often, the installer factored in the highest temp water so he could use less fin tube .. he made more money on the job. It's often figured at 180 with longer runs.

I was able to use outdoor reset on my CI radiators -- main loop constant circulation.

Did you set up anything with the clean energy program ?
 

HondaCBMan

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If the OP goes to gas -- look into the NJ clean energy program --- great program. It was Up to 10k 10y 0 percent loan and 5k in direct rebates. When I moved back to property I own in NJ and did a lot of upgrades -- one of the units was basically free as going with a supper high efficiency unit saves me the cost of the 10 year note every month.

Since he needs a new boiler -- now is the time to do it. Also -- switch to an indirect water heater.

I'm in NJ. I had PSEG come out to give me an estimate on two replacement boilers (replacing one oil and a really old gas). $20,000, using Weil McLain EG30 and EG35 models.

Maybe I need to look deeper into the NJ Clean Energy Program because on first look didn't look that substantial. PSEG won't give an additional discount because it's not efficient enough.
 
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75gmck25

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Alexandria, VA
When I bought my house in 2012 it had an oil boiler that had been installed in 1940. Not very efficient, but still working.

We had NG available, so we replaced it with a Budurus GC124 NG boiler and never looked back. It is not a high efficiency boiler, but NG bills have been low and it works well with the existing CI radiators. They set the temp to 140 degrees max, 100 degrees min, and it seldom ever gets up to more than 135 degrees before cycling off. I think I paid about $8,500 for the total installation, including removal of the oil tank.

The installer recommended the Buderus GC124 because it was designed as a replacement for older systems, which meant it had all the hydronic pipe connections in the same places. In retrospect I'm not sure this is a big concern.

The one issue I've found is that in Northern VA (near DC), there are very few hydronic system dealers left. When the Honeywell controller in my boiler started getting flaky it was hard to find a local repair shop, and then it was slow for them to find parts. Most East Coast parts places seemed to be in NY along the I-81 corridor, and they would only sell to a dealer/repairman. Buderus and Honeywell have also apparently had a falling out, so there was no direct Honeywell replacement for the controller. However, the repair shop found an equivalent product and it has worked well for the past year.

Bruce
 
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yeldogt

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I'm in NJ. I had PSEG come out to give me an estimate on two replacement boilers (replacing one oil and a really old gas). $20,000, using Weil McLain EG30 and EG35 models.

Maybe I need to look deeper into the NJ Clean Energy Program because on first look didn't look that substantial. PSEG won't give an additional discount because it's not efficient enough.

PSE&G being the Power company for those not in the area. They have an installing company -- they also offer service plans for all types of equipment and supplies. They tend to be on the high end when getting estimates .. lots of the workers "moonlight"

The CE program is state run .... the power company rebates are outside of the program.
 

LS6 Tommy

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PSE&G being the Power company for those not in the area. They have an installing company -- they also offer service plans for all types of equipment and supplies. They tend to be on the high end when getting estimates .. lots of the workers "moonlight"

The CE program is state run .... the power company rebates are outside of the program.

I wouldn't let PS&G install anything in my house. FIL & cousin both have PS&G service contracts. They're not too bad, but anytime they mention replacements, it gets spendy real quick. FIL was just told he needs a new furnace, evporator coil and condensing unit. I'm not questioning the need for replacement, but the verbal quote was a joke. Get an independent contractor for replacement quotes. Gold Medal seems pretty well received.

Tommy
 

bobbyjean

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66hertzclone-the price to run the line seems like it would cover your new boiler(oil) and some of the sidearm heater i would go with for hot water-the oil does need to be serviced each season while gas needs to be checked but is more forgiving.
weil mclain is good,burnham ,crown ,peerless are as well-if your going the gas route anyway why not go with a condensing unit -gets you more bang for the buck and may elimainate that costly chimney repair that may be needed as it can be vented with pvc pipe-good luck with the project
 

Ak Jim

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Look into a System 2000 boiler. I think it is by far one of the better if not the best out there. Super efficient. It gets combustion air from outside and doesn't have a damper on the exhaust. Super quiet, about as loud as a microwave. The boiler is really well insulated so it doesn't bleed off heat. Also the boiler cools off when heat is not needed. The control logic times the combustion and circ pump so that the burner shuts off but the circ pump continues to run to get most of the heat out of the unit. It is much smaller and lighter than other boilers. Also with the stainless steel circular boiler cleaning is super easy and fast. Had one installed last year. It replaced a 30 years old Slant Fin 40. It's like we went from the 1800s to 2020 with the change.


PS. I'm pretty sure it is the only boiler that can easily and legally switch from oil to natural gas.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Look into a System 2000 boiler. I think it is by far one of the better if not the best out there. Super efficient. It gets combustion air from outside and doesn't have a damper on the exhaust. Super quiet, about as loud as a microwave. The boiler is really well insulated so it doesn't bleed off heat. Also the boiler cools off when heat is not needed. The control logic times the combustion and circ pump so that the burner shuts off but the circ pump continues to run to get most of the heat out of the unit. It is much smaller and lighter than other boilers. Also with the stainless steel circular boiler cleaning is super easy and fast. Had one installed last year. It replaced a 30 years old Slant Fin 40. It's like we went from the 1800s to 2020 with the change.


PS. I'm pretty sure it is the only boiler that can easily and legally switch from oil to natural gas.


I like Energy Kinetics stuff. Originally I was going to do use their oil fired unit when it came time to replace my Weil McLaine, but now there's a natgas main on my street I'm going to reinvestigate brands when the time comes.

Tommy
 
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66HertzClone

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I had second guy come out to look things over, running the gas line through the basement is going to be challenging just as the other guy stated. Running through the attic seems like the easy solution, there is nothing up there but an air handler and the flexible duct work for the AC that was added after the house was built. The service entrance is as far from the position of the boiler as it could be in the house. Other than digging up the entire front yard and side yard, the pipe has to go through the house in some manner.

We discussed a couple of different options for a boiler, my chimney needs some work for both the fireplace and for the boiler, so using an outside venting unit makes sense as I won't have to do anything for the boiler portion. He did recommend a stand alone water heater rather than a combination unit. He though the Burnham PVG version would be a good choice, it falls somewhere a regular replacement and a full out condensing unit. It's cast iron but does vent through PVC and won't require the attention and maintenance that the high efficiency units do. He also mentioned a Bradford White water heater, when I looked it up there were several comments about the blower being very noisy. These will be directly under the master bedroom so I want to avoid having the chance of noisy equipment. He will be sending me a written estimate but thought this would be around 11K, that's 9K less than the low point of my other estimate. He would only be using the expansion tank from the current system as it was recently replaced. I will be signing the contract with the gas company next week to get this going, hopefully they will be out quickly to run the pipe.
 

HondaCBMan

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PSE&G being the Power company for those not in the area. They have an installing company -- they also offer service plans for all types of equipment and supplies. They tend to be on the high end when getting estimates .. lots of the workers "moonlight"

The CE program is state run .... the power company rebates are outside of the program.

I wouldn't let PS&G install anything in my house. FIL & cousin both have PS&G service contracts. They're not too bad, but anytime they mention replacements, it gets spendy real quick. FIL was just told he needs a new furnace, evporator coil and condensing unit. I'm not questioning the need for replacement, but the verbal quote was a joke. Get an independent contractor for replacement quotes. Gold Medal seems pretty well received.

Tommy

We had an independent contractor come out and he quoted us about $1400 less than PSEG. The contractor suggested an EG50 instead of an EG35 (PSEG suggested) for the second floor. Higher output boiler. We are debating on going with the independent.
 
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