Custom Battery Cables

[Red Green]

First Sorry about the low quality cell phone pics.

Well I bought a plow truck and it only had one battery. I know what you guys are says WTF? Who would have a plow truck that has an electric pump with only one battery. So I needed to add a second battery. I started with a battery box from LMC truck. I didn't think about taking pictures of that install.

Well here is how I made some custom length cables with old wire removed from a car with a heavy duty amp.

I started with a 2g Cable that I removed from a car. I had already done one end when I decided to take some pics and share it with you guys.

First I installed one end and measured the length I needed.

Next I removed the coating so that the bare wire just fit into the cable lug.

Next is to put the cable lug into my bench vise. I uncoiled a length of lead solder. Heat the cable end until lead is melted and filling the end about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way. Then insert the cable into the end.

This one I had to heat and remove the cable a couple time until I got it inserted completely. There will be a little extra lead and a some melting on the end of the coating.

Next should be some shrink wrap and a heat gun. I didn't have any shrink wrap. So I used electrical tape. The one on the right I got on the first try and it didn't have and discoloration.

 

[Stick]

I prefer to crimp my battery cables, rather than solder them. Ends up being a much better connection. I also prefer to use adhesive lined heat shrink to seal the ends of the cables, electrical tape doesn't seem to last very long underhood.

 

[Red Green]

What style crimper do you have?


I keep forgeting to order the shrink wrap then the next time I need to make a cable I don't have time to order it. One of these times I will get around to doing that.

 

[tonydanzah]

hammer crimper, i bought mine from mcmaster carr

http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCMQ8wIwAA#

 

[Stick]

http://www.lawsonproducts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=60316

Not specifically that one, but a lever style with a diamond shaped crimp. Will do 8ga to 4/0 cables. IIRC EZ-Red makes a similar style with a triangular crimp, both in lever style and bench mount. Right around $200 or so, might not be worth it unless you make a lot of cables.

Edit: Mcmaster part #7333k15 -- $230

 

[tonydanzah]

http://www.lawsonproducts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=60316

Not specifically that one, but a lever style with a diamond shaped crimp. Will do 8ga to 4/0 cables. IIRC EZ-Red makes a similar style with a triangular crimp, both in lever style and bench mount. Right around $200 or so, might not be worth it unless you make a lot of cables.

Edit: Mcmaster part #7333k15 -- $230

your lawson link is broken

 

[PhantomEB]

I refuse to own a vehicle that only has one battery! I always add in a second one just in case! Usually on a switch for winter time, so theres always a fresh battery to crank over the engine.

 

[srmofo]

I use the shop press and old bearings when ever I need to crimp big stuff. Works great on cable ferrules too.

Its a little tough at first to get everything balanced and centered but I have discovered you can use your pencil magnet to hold the bearing in place until the press grabs it.

Would probably work in a vise also.


My plow trucks-2- only have 1 battery and I have never had an issue. Ive toyed with adding another but just havent seen the point in it. These are older late 80s chevys with fewer electricals then anything newer so Im sure that has something to do with it.

What kind of blade are you using?


Ohh, I also like to use skotch-gard on any electrical splice like that on my trucks. Especially anything near the spreader. You will not believe where that salty water will get. Find it in the electrical section in the home stores. I know its for house stuff but it works great at keeping the weather out. It also keeps electrical tape from unraveling and seals it tight.

 

[Ford12508]

electrical tape doesn't seem to last very long underhood.

About 3 months in the salt belt.

 

[Red Green]

My plow trucks-2- only have 1 battery and I have never had an issue. Ive toyed with adding another but just havent seen the point in it. These are older late 80s chevys with fewer electricals then anything newer so Im sure that has something to do with it.

What kind of blade are you using?

This is an 82 Chevy with a old style 7ft Western Blade. I had a 70s International Scout II with a 6 ft Western on it. I had issues that the battery would go dead about 1/2 way through plowing and I would have to swap out the battery with a fresh one in the shop as soon as I stalled it.

I have made battery cables for the race car for years like this and never had any issue. Most of them are 1/0 gauge because the battery is all the way by the rear axel.

 

[e-tek]

I would've thought RedGreen would use Duct Tape, not Electrical Tape....

Seriously guys, if you're going to do car repairs regularly,why not buy some stock: shrink wrap, zip ties, brush-on tape, oil, filters.....

 

[e-tek]

Ohh, I also like to use skotch-gard on any electrical splice like that on my trucks. Especially anything near the spreader. You will not believe where that salty water will get. Find it in the electrical section in the home stores. I know its for house stuff but it works great at keeping the weather out. It also keeps electrical tape from unraveling and seals it tight.

AWESOME tip!!! I think it's time to revive the Shop Tips thread with that one!!! I'm gonna try it (though I use dielectric grease on electrical connnxs).

Thanks mofo!

 

[Red Green]

I would've thought RedGreen would use Duct Tape, not Electrical Tape....

Seriously guys, if you're going to do car repairs regularly,why not buy some stock: shrink wrap, zip ties, brush-on tape, oil, filters.....

Haha I have zip ties and oil and filters. Small shrink wrap up for 10-18 gauge wire. I keep forgeting to order shrink wrap for the cable size. Oh and I have lots of duct tape thats what is holding the glove box shut.

 

[srmofo]

AWESOME tip!!! I think it's time to revive the Shop Tips thread with that one!!! I'm gonna try it (though I use dielectric grease on electrical connnxs).

Thanks mofo!

I put dielectric inside the connectors also, I just use the skotch to seal the insulation. It becomes like a hard but flexible shell around the wire. Dont put it in the connector. You'll never get it back apart. Sorry if I misunderstood you

I also keep a jar of black fingernail polish in the toolbox. Its enamel. Great for sealing punctured wires up. When I grind paint and crud down to get a good ground connection I will put the nail polish over the bare metal connection to seal it back up.

 

[Thedroid]

.Best connection IMO is to dip cable in No-ox_id A special (aka cosmolene) and then crimp, you'll never have trouble with your connections or any corrosion.

A few layers of scotch 23 followed up with a few layers of super 33+ should last a long time if put on right.

 

[Stick]

I also keep a jar of black fingernail polish in the toolbox. Its enamel. Great for sealing punctured wires up. When I grind paint and crud down to get a good ground connection I will put the nail polish over the bare metal connection to seal it back up.

Don't use nail polish or RTV around wiring. The acetone used as a solvent/carrier for the nail polish breaks down into acetic acid (ie. vinegar smell in RTV) which is extraordinarily corrosive to the copper in the wiring. Liquid electrical tape is much safer, and available at most automotive parts stores.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

hammer crimper, i bought mine from mcmaster carr

http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCMQ8wIwAA#

I use the same thing.

I crimp the end, solder it and then put a piece of the super thick sealing heat shrink over each terminal.

Many people don't realize how fast moisture getting inside the cable can make enough resistance to screw things up for ya - especially when it'sa longer cable.

 

[hifi_hokie]

I would've thought RedGreen would use Duct Tape, not Electrical Tape....

Seriously guys, if you're going to do car repairs regularly,why not buy some stock: shrink wrap, zip ties, brush-on tape, oil, filters.....

Velcro, Bondo, Elmer's glue...

 

[e-tek]

Haha I have zip ties and oil and filters. Small shrink wrap up for 10-18 gauge wire. I keep forgeting to order shrink wrap for the cable size. Oh and I have lots of duct tape thats what is holding the glove box shut.

I must've been in a "holier-than-thou" mood last night....sorry about that... As well, as if I have Size 0 shrink-wrap either...... Man I can be a ****!!

 

[bad daddy]

Why not use tinned wire (Ancor or Almo AWG wire) and tinned lugs.
The other product that lasts a long time, is that self amalgamating Rescue Tape.

I use FTZ lugs and crimpers, no solder. Solder only can be hazardous, because in the event of a short, it can let go.

 

[bluebolt]

These days I usually use compression lugs and battery terminals. I have used a punch in the past as a "hammer crimper" worked fine. I always use shrink wrap and ahve the large sizes on hand. Finding it is sometimes a problem when it does not get put back in the right place.

 

[TW95Z]

Don't use nail polish or RTV around wiring. The acetone used as a solvent/carrier for the nail polish breaks down into acetic acid (ie. vinegar smell in RTV) which is extraordinarily corrosive to the copper in the wiring. Liquid electrical tape is much safer, and available at most automotive parts stores.

Just an FYI - Acetone does not break down into acetic acid.

 

[danski0224]

Next is to put the cable lug into my bench vise. I uncoiled a length of lead solder. Heat the cable end until lead is melted and filling the end about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way. Then insert the cable into the end.

Measure the resistance of your soldered cable ends compared to crimped cable ends.

You really do not want to be soldering them.

 

[Stick]

Just an FYI - Acetone does not break down into acetic acid.

http://www.stonybrook.edu/vescalab/research/research7.html

X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy studies have shown that acetone, when used as a cleaning agent for copper in the presence of ambient light and water vapor, slowly reacts to form acetic acid. This reaction does not occur in the absence of light. This suggests that copper acts as a photocatalyst for the reaction between acetone and water vapor. The use of acetone for degreasing copper and copper containing alloys as recommended by ASTM E1078-97 is questioned in this work.

The point was that acetone is a mild acid and can introduce the start of corrosion in the wiring. It may take a while for the corrosion to start, but as I stated earlier liquid electrical tape is far safer than nail polish and is easily obtained at any decent parts store.

 

[gte718p]

Either way buy the proper heat shrink and be done with it. I like the marine grade which has the glue in it.

More then likely you get a cold joint when trying to soder large wires. You get better connections with a good crimp. I build a large number of cables each year for electric vehicles. When pushing 1000+ amps that slight resistance from a colder soda joint becomes a large problem.

I use genuinedealz.com for my electrical supplies and wire. I have yet to find better prices on good quality supplies.

 

[nkachur]

I must've been in a "holier-than-thou" mood last night....sorry about that... As well, as if I have Size 0 shrink-wrap either...... Man I can be a ****!!

Obviously you need to get some then You can pick it up at truckline parts in the north end in a 4 ft (give or take length).