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Custom KRL1022 on eBay

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bry@n

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Actually it's not that bad of an idea. If you have a cart, you could put all your sockets/ rails and impact in there and then use the small draws on the 1022.

Not sure I would do it, but it woulda been nice to see how he set his tools up.
 

Mugen AP1

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Not bad set up though. If thats how you like to work. Not going to lie-it has crossed my mind once or twice with my box
 

scottmlew

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fwiw, you can make that customization on some of the Matco boxes using their (very cool) online configuration tool. I'd want at least 1 wide deep drawer for sockets, but if this is a second box or something and you're good on socket space, that's an excellent idea!
 

CATSNOX900

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I saw that box listed on Ebay at least a month ago, possibly even longer ago than that. I don't know whether it is just a relist because it didn't sell or what. Just figured I'd let you guys know in case someone is looking at purchasing it. I'm not calling the seller a scammer or anything, but you never know and I'd hate to see someone get burned.
 

Skyline

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I saw that box listed on Ebay at least a month ago, possibly even longer ago than that. I don't know whether it is just a relist because it didn't sell or what. Just figured I'd let you guys know in case someone is looking at purchasing it. I'm not calling the seller a scammer or anything, but you never know and I'd hate to see someone get burned.

It's still around because it's at LEAST $1k over priced.
 

CamarosRus

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As some who owns a KRL1022, I could sure use more square inches of drawer space.

In losing the 5" Top Drawer you can longer stand sockets up as I do with HANSEN holders. Not sure what laid down holders I would find acceptable. Laying down most of the sockets would take up alot of room ??

I'm under the impression that buying those two new drawers (2" & 3") plus more roller slides was quite spendy ?????

I would really like to lose the deep drawer on lower left and have shallower drawers on all of that bank..........

FYI, In my present situation I dont have room to have a KRL1023 or 1032
 

chadster1

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Slides would not need to be purchased because the top deep drawer already has 2 slides but the drawers are $393 each.
 
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bry@n

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Your correct on that big draw on the left. It's my **** draw because it serves me no purpose. I already have a big draw with my other box. I wonder if I could change that draw config?

As some who owns a KRL1022, I could sure use more square inches of drawer space.

In losing the 5" Top Drawer you can longer stand sockets up as I do with HANSEN holders. Not sure what laid down holders I would find acceptable. Laying down most of the sockets would take up alot of room ??

I'm under the impression that buying those two new drawers (2" & 3") plus more roller slides was quite spendy ?????

I would really like to lose the deep drawer on lower left and have shallower drawers on all of that bank..........

FYI, In my present situation I dont have room to have a KRL1023 or 1032
 

Mickey O

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I don't know what type of lock mechanism that box has but when I have reconfigured drawers in some boxes I had to modify the lock mechanism to work with the new configuration, I'd be curious to know if both of the new drawers lock (for no particular reason, I'm not interested in buying it).
 
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Merkava_4

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I don't know what type of lock mechanism that box has but when I have reconfigured drawers in some boxes I had to modify the lock mechanism to work with the new configuration, I'd be curious to know if both of the new drawers lock (for no particular reason, I'm not interested in buying it).

Each drawer has a hook on the back. There's a flat bar running vertical in the back of the box with multiple slots in it. When you turn the key, the bar drops down and the slots engage with the hooks in the back of the drawers.
 

RbrtAWhyt

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fwiw, you can make that customization on some of the Matco boxes using their (very cool) online configuration tool. I'd want at least 1 wide deep drawer for sockets, but if this is a second box or something and you're good on socket space, that's an excellent idea!


The confiburator is cool...
 

CamarosRus

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Please comment about losing the Left Lower DEEP drawer and replacing with more shallow drawers like on Left Top ?????

Need to search for thread and vendor name, but cant I go outside S.O. network to buy more slides ????

I really want more sq inches within the confines of my KRL1022

Thanks for your suggestions
 

CamarosRus

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I've called SNAP ON customer service on 12/22/09. Waiting for tech man to call me back to answer my drawer configuation questions.

Interior of KRL(1022) box has multiple slide mounting holes spaced evenly from top to bottom of drawer cavity.

I want to eliminate bottom left (10 3/4") deep drawer and replace with another 4" deep and 2 more 2" deep.

This would give me 5 x 2" drawers and 2 x 4" drawers in left hand bank.............
 

glenmore

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All the SO boxes are pretty modular so as long as you are willing to buy new drawers , you can configure it any which away, vertically that is. For instance, you could move that big left bottom drawer to the top of the stack on the left just below the full width drawers. The slides are held by just one screw and then you just reposition the slide. The walls of the box are all punched with slots. One caveat, when I cleaned all my slides you basically had to remove them all, all the way to the top because to get them out and back in you have to tilt them up a bit.

The only problem would be as Mekava 4 mentioned, the locking mechanism. You'd have to pull some drawers and take a look.
 
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CamarosRus

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As Ive written in another thread (or two) I'm having trouble removing any slides from my KRL1022.

There is no screw in that hole at the front, and Ive yet to figure this situation out

Ive driven from bayonet/hook upward some, but not enough to
disengage slotted hole

Getting back to drawer configuration, I agree with your modular sugestion........However there must be some logic, or rule of thum what can and can NOT be done.

I want to lose the left bottom DEEP (10 3/4") drawer, and move existing 4" to bottom. Put a new 4" on top of bottom (making for 2 x 4" drawers).........

and then add two more 2" drawers (making for total of 5 x 2"), with the 2 x 4" on the bottom of left hand bay/stack...............

Dont yet know who,what,how or where I can buy the three drawers and slides for lowest amount, but not giving up w/o a try..........
 

ron in sc

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It's still around because it's at LEAST $1k over priced.

Definately overpriced even with custom drawers. I bought a used KRL 1003 about a year and a half ago when economy was not as bad as now for I recall $3250. Toolbox has wood butcher block top, was as new and came with a basic Snap on tool cart.
 

DynoDale

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As Ive written in another thread (or two) I'm having trouble removing any slides from my KRL1022.

There is no screw in that hole at the front, and Ive yet to figure this situation out

Ive driven from bayonet/hook upward some, but not enough to
disengage slotted hole

Getting back to drawer configuration, I agree with your modular sugestion........However there must be some logic, or rule of thum what can and can NOT be done.

I want to lose the left bottom DEEP (10 3/4") drawer, and move existing 4" to bottom. Put a new 4" on top of bottom (making for 2 x 4" drawers).........

and then add two more 2" drawers (making for total of 5 x 2"), with the 2 x 4" on the bottom of left hand bay/stack...............

Dont yet know who,what,how or where I can buy the three drawers and slides for lowest amount, but not giving up w/o a try..........

Ok Chuck, this isn't that hard. If you take out the bottom drawer (10" nominal, the extra 3/4" is because there are no gaps like between smaller drawers), you need to put 10" of drawers in. 4 + 2 * 2 = 8, so you'll have room for another 2" drawer. You could put 2 4" drawers and 1 2", or 1 4" and 3 2". The slides are spaced every 2", so the drawers are 2, 4, 6, 8, 10. List price for 2" drawers is $225 and 4" ones are $240. You'll need additional sets of slides, too: $58.45 a set. You might be able to get a small discount (10%?) from a dealer.

To get the slides out for 2" drawers, you have to start at the top. The bigger ones can be taken out by themselves. Put a screwdriver in through the hole in the slide while it is extended to flex the slide out of the box's square hole enough to be able to lift it up.
 
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glenmore

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CamarosRus,

I would bet this would be easy to do. Only thing holding you back would be the cost of the new drawers which judging from the quote above, would be considerable. But then you would have a pretty trick box!

My slides have the small nut up front (access from the hole in the slide).

In order to remove the slides, I had to remove all the drawers and start removing the slides from the top. You need a little overhead clearance for each slide. To reassemble you have to start at the bottom and go up. If you have 3 slides right on top of one another, you can't take out the middle one. You have to take them all out, including the slides for the full width drawers. At least that is the way I did mine. To find out, you'll have to unload your top drawer and try the top slide.

Also looking at the locking mechanism, this would be no problem on my box. My box is almost 15 years old though. Each drawer has hooks at the back and the sliding lock has regular slots cut into it. I would have to guess that it is designed to handle many configurations.
 

CamarosRus

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Dyno Dale, The new additional 4" and two more 2" drawers is what I want to do.

If anybody anywhere knows a S.O. dealer willing to order these at lowest price. give them my Email..............

I still need to work on your screw driver slide removal instructions......

Thanks,
 
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Merkava_4

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Yeah, you might want to extend the slide out all the way and see if there's a screw inside a window going through the slide and into the interior wall. I doubt there's one there, but my old MAC box had them.
 

CamarosRus

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Are you saying to use a screwdriver inserted into the intermediate section while extended, in order to lever the main section over and pull up ??????

w/o additional confirmation, I'm just too fearful of damaging a $58 slide set ?????
 

DynoDale

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Dyno Dale, The new additional 4" and two more 2" drawers is what I want to do.

If anybody anywhere knows a S.O. dealer willing to order these at lowest price. give them my Email..............

I still need to work on your screw driver slide removal instructions......

Thanks,

If you're only going to put one 4" drawer in, you have to put in three 2" drawers. The drawer heights have to add up to 10.
 
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Merkava_4

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I'd go with 1 six inch and 1 four inch - that way the drawer handles would line up with the drawer handles of the adjacent drawers.
 

DynoDale

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Are you saying to use a screwdriver inserted into the intermediate section while extended, in order to lever the main section over and pull up ??????

w/o additional confirmation, I'm just too fearful of damaging a $58 slide set ?????

There is a tab on the slide that keeps it from moving up. It engages a rectangular hole in the toolbox. These pictures should make it clear:
Snap-onslideremoval003.jpg

Snap-onslideremoval004.jpg

Snap-onslideremoval005.jpg
 

glenmore

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You may not have to pry at all. I removed all my slides just by hand. They come off easily, and go in easily as long as you have a little overhead clearance to tilt them up. Don't worry, you won't be able to bend anything on the slide. Probably the only thing bendable are the races and you can touch them up with a small screwdriver.

These are great shots of the beefy SO slides. Compare them to any Craftsman even the Pro model. There is no comparison.
 
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CamarosRus

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DynoDale, THANKS for the excellent pics and captioning...............

When I pull one of my slides out to where the oblong hole is over the lock hole
there is still another piece of metal behind the oblong hole, not as open area as you show. This other metal does have a 3/16-1/4" hole where I can insert small screwdriver.

What am I trying to get that lock tab to do............push further in (locking) or somehow pry outward so its not locking.........

For some reason my slide is not "dead-nuts" the same as yours pictured ????

Thanks so much for trying to help me!!!!!!!!!!!

Chuck
 

CamarosRus

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Ok Chuck, this isn't that hard. If you take out the bottom drawer (10" nominal, the extra 3/4" is because there are no gaps like between smaller drawers), you need to put 10" of drawers in. 4 + 2 * 2 = 8, so you'll have room for another 2" drawer. You could put 2 4" drawers and 1 2", or 1 4" and 3 2". The slides are spaced every 2", so the drawers are 2, 4, 6, 8, 10. List price for 2" drawers is $225 and 4" ones are $240. You'll need additional sets of slides, too: $58.45 a set. You might be able to get a small discount (10%?) from a dealer.

Dale, Before I order these FOUR drawers from S.O. dealer John Doe (Somewhere,USA), how can I verify your above info. Need to know absolutely that one additional 4" and three additional 2" drawers will take place of 10+" drawer.

Think about ALL the additional square inches you'd be adding......Why oh why doesnt SNAP ON have a better box program where you can swap drawers around ????? I know.they dont have too, were SNAP ON.

I just got off the phone with Judy at Snap On customer service. She gave me drawer and slide part #'s. My new conclusion is that.........it's just too much money...just to damm much $$$$

Thanks, Chuck
 
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DynoDale

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Dale, Before I order these FOUR drawers from S.O. dealer John Doe (Somewhere,USA), how can I verify your above info. Need to know absolutely that one additional 4" and three additional 2" drawers will take place of 10+" drawer.

Think about ALL the additional square inches you'd be adding......Why oh why doesnt SNAP ON have a better box program where you can swap drawers around ????? I know.they dont have too, were SNAP ON.

I just got off the phone with Judy at Snap On customer service. She gave me drawer and slide part #'s. My new conclusion is that.........it's just too much money...just to damm much $$$$

Thanks, Chuck

As someone once said, JUST DO IT! Take your existing drawers out, and put them in place of the 10" one to satisfy yourself. You have a 4" and 3x 2". Exchange them with the 10" one. You still have to figure out how to take your slides out I guess.

I'm pretty sure you can custom order a new box in the configuration that you want. Basically, you get credit for the drawers you don't want and pay for the ones that you do. You're still better off financially buying a used box and buying new drawers and slides for it, but the change you want to make is over $1000!
 

CamarosRus

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As someone once said, JUST DO IT! Take your existing drawers out, and put them in place of the 10" one to satisfy yourself. You have a 4" and 3x 2". Exchange them with the 10" one. You still have to figure out how to take your slides out I guess.[
QUOTE]

Dale, I dont understand the above....................

1) I already own the pictured KRL1022 which I paid $3K for used............
In LOOKING at the below picture, I want to ADD another four drawers identical to the four that are on top of the 10" drawer.

2) As you previously suggested and I agree, I would need to buy ONE new 4" drawer and THREE new 2" drawers to replace the 10" drawer I want to remove......plus 3 sets of new slides at $58 each set

3) I just dont think I can bring myself to pulling the trigger for over $1K for 4drawers and slides. Even though I dont want a 72" Long Box, I might as well try and buy used KRL1023 (72") and sell my KRL1022 (54")........OR
I could buy the 56" MONTEZUMA Top and Bottom for more sq inches.

I really do like the KRL Box, but just not enough sq inches, with that lousy good for little bottom left deep drawer..............

RANT OVER



SnapOnToolBox011.jpg

SnapOnToolBox013.jpg
 
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DynoDale

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As someone once said, JUST DO IT! Take your existing drawers out, and put them in place of the 10" one to satisfy yourself. You have a 4" and 3x 2". Exchange them with the 10" one. You still have to figure out how to take your slides out I guess.

Dale, I dont understand the above....................

1) I already own the pictured KRL1022 which I paid $3K for used............
In LOOKING at the below picture, I want to ADD another four drawers identical to the four that are on top of the 10" drawer.
You wanted to make absolutely sure that the new drawers would fit in place of the deep drawer. If you can put the big drawer on the top and the smaller drawers below it, would that not prove that the new drawers would fit? That's how I would prove it, but I'm not going to do it for you.
 

CamarosRus

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Dale, Thanks for trying to help me..............guess I'm just cheap and hopeless.

As I have no immediate plan to pull the trigger on $1K for 4 drawers and 3 sets of new slides, I'll just put the darn thing back together (if I can even manage that).

I never did get even one slide out.........ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

At some point I'll buy more storage, probably going UP with top and bottom combo ????
 

CamarosRus

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DynoDale, (and others), After failing on ever removing even one drawer slide from my KRL1022 I finally gave up on the entire notion of adding more drawers.

As Ive already said, the cost is just too darn high to justify the added sq inches.

Anyway I just felt compelled to tell you that I evidently damaged the bottom two left hand slides in my efforts to remove them. In banging on the zinc plated slide (channel material as it were) I must have tweaked something.

They still work but not as smooth or quiet as before I fxxked them up.

Maybe I'll try the warranty route as Chris Adams suggested and Warrior95 did.......Cant recall reason or excuse I need to use........?????

Thanks to all reading and trying to help!!!
 
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glenmore

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I'd be surprised if you bent any part of the slide. It is very hefty steel there. I've been studying the excellent pictures by DynoDale. His slides seem to be a little different than the ones on my box, IIRC. I was able to remove all my slides by hand after removing the one set screw. My slides have the horizontal hook at the back and the down pointing hook at the front that sits in the keystone shaped cut out. To remove them, it is sort of a pull and lift movement to clear the rear and front hooks.

His slides have that extra up pointing hook that fits in the lock hole and is accessed thru the oval cutout in the slide. His last picture shows the hook. His first picture shows the hook thru the oval cutout and almsot no gap to get a screwdriver in behind the small hook. His second picture shows how you need to pry the small hook away from the orange wall and towards the center of the drawer. If by accident you set your pry in that gap to the left of the small hook (last picture), then you'll never get the slide out since you are then forcing the small hook to further engage. In order to get your pry in the right spot you may need to pull and lift on the slide slightly. After you get your pry in the right spot, then lift and pull on the slide as you pry to get that small hook past the orange wall lock hole. If you can't move the slide at all with a pulling and lifting motion, maybe there is another set screw hidden behind another cutout in the slide.
 

CamarosRus

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glenmore, Thanks for trying to tell me how to get those difficults slides out.

As I've already mentioned I put my removed drawers back on the slides and everything is back together.

I must repeat myself and say that through the dead blow beating and pulling etc etc, two of the left side slides are now more noisy, more stiff, more friction than before I started this remove slide ordeal.....

Chadster, You must be a great dealer and "friend" to your customers. I dont regret my values. It's just that my values dont allow me to operate within your world.

Blessings to ya'all
 

Costner

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Wait... you admit you beat them with a hammer and obviously damaged them, and now you want sympathy AND a warranty replacement for the slides you damaged?

What about accepting some responsiblity for your actions? Is that a value you happen to have in your arsenal?
 
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