Custom Socket Trays

[Regnar]

When I have to torque some fasteners to 30-90 inch pounds it allows me to just use a socket and 1/4 drive torque wrench. No need for adapters or a 3/8 torque wrench for the same values as my 1/4 torque wrench.

 

[Karl_B]

I'm still trying to think up a practical application for a 15mm 1/4" drive socket. Someone please satisfy my curiosity. Why the hell wouldn't you just grab your 3/8" ratchet and put some actual leverage on that fastener? Otherwise it seems to me you're making the task more difficult than it really needs to be.

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I used my 15mm 1/4" drive socket yesterday while replacing a battery on a 1998 Dodge Intrepid. The battery is buried and has a cable running up a stud where other cables are run to distribute power. It is secured with a flange nut requiring a 15mm socket. I had my metric 1/4" socket tray, ratchet, and extensions. It would make no sense to walk back to the tool box for that one size in 3/8" and the socket to match.

There are times when a 15mm headed bolt or nut is used for low torque applications. Those are when it pays to have one in a 15mm. I don't use it often, but it's terribly handy to have when it's appropriate.

 

[jeremy v]

Nice job on the socket trays OP.

I don't have any missing middle sized sockets, so I just left all the labeling as is (my sockets all fit no problem with the stock spacing) on my Harbor Freight trays. I then tightened everything up by cutting the ends off of the trays here and there to completely eliminate the sizes that are way out of the normal range for that particular drive size. I was able to free up about 20% more space by doing that and also cutting off the hanging peg tab on the ends of the trays.

 

[stage20]

you know how many times ive run a socket in a grinder to make it a homeade thinwall? 1/4's will usually work perfect.

 

[jsharpphoto]

I've never needed a thin wall socket. I'm sure they are very handy though. The only thing I ever do to my cars other than audio equipment is change the battery. 10 or 11mm and I'm done.

 

[jsharpphoto]

after finally getting mine situated, i dont like the kobalt trays. all the numbers on the bottom, i have to lean into my top drawer to grab the right socket.

That's my main problem with kobalt trays. If you have your trays in rows, you can only read the first one, and you have to look straight down to do that.

I also didn't like how tall the pegs are for the deep sockets. I would be likely to snap one off not pulling the socket straight up.

My guess is, kobalt trays are best suited for the top cavity of a mechanics cart, like the HF 5 drawer, rather than inside a tool chest drawer. But maybe that's just my ergonomic preference.