Cut off saw question.

[Torino]

For cutting metal I have been using a grinder with a 4" cutting disk. I bought a cutoff saw from HF
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-14-inch-heavy-duty-cut-off-saw-91938.html#.UzOpZ6aZgaY

Since the grinder was working good I thought the cutoff saw would work much better. Well it does not. It takes forever to cut anything. I cut some 1" round bar the other day and it took over 5 min. I then cut it with the grinder and it took about 30 second. I have changed the blade to a thinner name brand and it is still so slow. Is something wrong or is this the way they are suppose to work?

 

[HMCFab9]

That saw is either defective, or just a poorly made underpowered piece of ****.
It should cut in a matter of seconds, not minutes.

 

[Torino]

It does not bog down. How much pressure should I use? With the grinder I just let the blade and the weight of the tool do the cutting.

 

[aaronrkelly]

It does not bog down. How much pressure should I use? With the grinder I just let the blade and the weight of the tool do the cutting.

You have to put some decent force down on it. I bet that is your problem....

 

[ibedayank]

all the cutoff saw ****... blades flex so it does not cut true better off saving up more money and buying the 4x6 bandsaw. I own a cutoff and at work have the bandsaw will take the bandsaw first and everytime

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

 

[Torino]

Well here is the stupid question that is probably impossible to answer. How much force do I put on the blade. I have been scared of the blade breaking and sending pieces everywhere, one between my eyes.

 

[ibedayank]

enough force to see sparks fly on mine helps to press on the gaurd and handle at same time

 

[Torino]

What I have been doing is holding the pressure where I see the most sparks. I figured that is where it is cutting the fasted. Still slow as can be compared to the grinder.
What about a still blade instead of the cut off wheel?

 

[bsg]

They blade should not break unless something moves or pinches the blade.
Make sure your work is supported in and out of the saw.
I use as much pressure until the motor starts to bog a little.
If you go to slow the blade will load up and not cut very well and will wear prematurely.

As far as the blades blowing up, wear a face shield and don't stand inline with the blade, if the blade breaks, the centrifugal force will make it go straight out.
I have only broken a couple of blades in 30 years and the flying debris doesn't have enough energy to go that far, so as long as your out of the way your fine.

Kevin

 

[toolslinger]

Something to be aware of. Cutoff saws can be excellent machines, but if you get a ****** wheel, they're a nightmare. It wouldn't shock me to find HF has crappy wheels. Before you start hating it, put a good wheel on it, and see what it does. Get it from a reputable place like a welding supply house that will actually know something about what they're selling. I've had really bad luck with no-name wheels, and some Ryobi wheels. They behave exactly like you're describing. You shouldn't need a ton of pressure, but cutting something solid rather than a tube will certainly take longer/more pressure.

 

[NUTTSGT]

A decent blade won't cost you much. I picked up a couple of these from Rural King a few months back when they were on sale for $3.

http://www.ruralking.com/dewalt-14-x-7-64-x-1-general-purpose-chop-saw-wheel-dwa8011.html

When I try to cut something and it doesn't want to cut right away, it seems to be something like heat treating the steel. It's almost like it case hardens that spot and you have to then, basically, power your way through it with a little more force than normal.

I can't say whether or not the saw is good or not as I don't have one. I bought a Milwaukee saw or atleast the wife did at Christmas time. I figured buying a good one would last me 20 plus years as a DIYer.

 

[bggrnchvy]

The key to chop saws is adequate pressure.

Too much and you'll glaze the blade over, too little and you'll never get through the material in a reasonable time.

Once a blade is glazed over it's tough to get it back, but doable.

You want to push hard enough that the motor speed stays up but you're drawing significant current. Don't let it slow down. Once the blade is fully buried in the material it should be pulling 10-13a.

I've used a HF 14" chop saw to make in the realm of 1000 cuts through different profiles. It's on it's 3rd set of brushes and it's finally starting to fall apart (plastic is cracked and switch is intermittent), but after it's 8 year life I'd say it's given me way more than $50 in utility. If I hadn't been handed a Rigid chop saw to replace it, I'd probably buy another to limp along until I have space for horizontal band saw.

 

[scw1991]

I went through this scenario last year and one of the gents here stated that if you do not apply enough pressure, the steel work work harden or temper ??. Sure enough, I started applying firm steady pressure and that did the trick.