Cut-Off Saw Slop

[dirtrunner0519]

It seems many of the members on here weld quite frequently. I wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations on getting rid of the slop on my chop saw. It is a 14" saw, and I am using USA made blades, not sure on brand has no markings, could be Chinese made.

I see it mainly on cutting 45 degree angles on 2 x 2 x 3/16" steel. I am talking about a 1/8" to 3/16" off when doing corners. I end up having to fill the void with weld rod.

Any recommendations.

 

[Flail]

By slop do you mean the head of the saw slops right and left after locked in place or do you mean it just doesn’t cut accurate angles?

 

[jeepinerdeep]

An abrasive saw? The harder you push the more crooked it goes. I've never made a nice cut with one. I am not sure it is possible.

Do you cut a lot of those angles? Maybe it's time to get a femi.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Check to make sure the work is not sliding in the vise. At an angle the work takes a lot more pressure to hold and the vise produces a lot less pressure. I have to use a second clamp to help hold on both my chop saws when I am doing angle cuts. Some sticky back sandpaper on the fixed jaw of the vise will help keep the work from sliding.

 

[Showkey]

The saw blade deflects with side pressure. More so on angle cuts........light even pressure and slow cuts helps.

 

[A**holes Garage]

get a dry saw

 

[glentre]

I had the same problem when I bought a 14" chop saw using an abrasive wheel because the wheel itself flexes too much, especially on angles. Returned it and bought a chop saw with a carbide tipped steel blade which does a super job. An abrasive saw runs at too high an rpm to use a metal carbide blade so stay away from that for your own safety.

Glen

 

[Farrier]

Getting rid of it will get rid of the slop

 

[Jackfre]

With my abrasive, Horiz BS or my Evolution dry cut, 45's are a hassle. Pressure deflects all of the blades. Unless very securely mounted the saws creep. I don't have a really good indeed/outfeed set-up that is permanent, so I am always screwing around trying to get the set-up right, and with the small tables on all of these saws that too is a problem. I have gotten to the point where, if it is an exposed area and has to be tight I will cut slightly long and grind to my line. The dry cut Evolution is a really nice saw. I haven't used the abrasive since getting it.

 

[bwringer]

This guy is sort of irritating, but he shows how he rebuilt the hinge in his miter saw to help eliminate the play:

 

[dirtrunner0519]

I have tried a carbide blade for cutting, it simply does not last that long, not on a chop saw on a miter saw. Maybe i bought the wrong type of blade for what i was doing. I will look into a cold saw or even maybe a band saw. Do band saws have just as much issue cutting on an angle. A lot of the work i have been doing for the house involves 45 angle to get a clean look.

 

[bullnerd]

"I have tried a carbide blade for cutting, it simply does not last that long, not on a chop saw on a miter saw."

I think you need to clarify this? Did you see the comment on the different RPMs the saws operate at?

Were you trying to cut 3/16 steel with a wood miter saw?

A carbide tooth blade will last a long time with the right RPM and cut 45 degrees with no problem.

 

[NUTTSGT]

How thin of a blade are you using ? I think it's wise to use a thicker blade when cutting thicker stock.

 

[metalmagpie]

^^^ This. Thin blades for 90 degree cuts; thicker blades for angled cuts. That is most likely your problem right there. Try one at least 3/16" thick.

metalmagpie

 

[kwb]

I rarely use my abrasive saw any more. I love my 9" steelmax on a lot of applications but a fixed saw does make a nicer cut.

My abrasive saw is an old belt driven one- what I should do is swap pulleys around and slow it down and go to a dry blade. I see no reason why I couldn't set my chop saw up to run at the right RPM. I might even make some of my cuts fit nice and not need to fill gaps when welding.

 

[dirtrunner0519]

My blade thickness was 1/8" cutting 3/16", so maybe this is one issue. I will look at purchasing a better saw or different solution.

My mitre saw is one set speed as far as i know. I did not know you could change the speed of a mitre saw.

Thank you for the feed back.

 

[Certified Drunk]

Since it's square tubing..
If you have the saw set at 45* towards the left, the piece on the left will be 45* and the one on the right side will be slightly off.
If you want a good 90*, "You will need to re-cut the piece on the left side..

 

[dirtrunner0519]

Since it's square tubing..
If you have the saw set at 45* towards the left, the piece on the left will be 45* and the one on the right side will be slightly off.
If you want a good 90*, "You will need to re-cut the piece on the left side..

Thank you for this info. I will try this and see if it works.