Cut-off Switch for Garage Door Opener

[Roadster]

Does anyone have any ideas for how to wire a power cut-off switch to a garage door opener?

I recently added an attic stair inside my garage, but the garage door has to be closed in order to use the stairs (inteference issue due to limited layout). I don't want to be climbing the stairs inside when my wife unwittingly drives up outside and tries to open the garage door with her remote control. The problem is that the opener plugs into the ceiling, and it's 11' off the floor, so unplugging the cord is a PITA requiring the use of a step ladder. So I'd like to install a power cut-off switch that will open the circuit to the garage door opener whenever the attic stairs hatch is open and close the circuit whenever the hatch is closed.

If I could figure out a way to do it with the thin control wires, that would be even better.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[PAToyota]

Just wire the control wiring through a contact switch that is closed when the stairs are up - put the switch on the ceiling and have some sort of "arm" off the stairs that hits the switch in the proper position. When the switch is open, no current - door can't go up.

[edit]Thinking about it, isn't the receiver for the remote inside the unit? Then the exterior control wiring isn't going to change anything. You'd have to do something to break power to the unit.

 

[Roadster]

Just wire the control wiring through a contact switch that is closed when the stairs are up - put the switch on the ceiling and have some sort of "arm" off the stairs that hits the switch in the proper position. When the switch is open, no current - door can't go up.

[edit]Thinking about it, isn't the receiver for the remote inside the unit? Then the exterior control wiring isn't going to change anything. You'd have to do something to break power to the unit.

Thanks for the input. I had the same thought initially. That would prevent the lighted button outside the kitchen door from activating the opener, since the button is connected to the opener with control wires, but I don't think it would prevent a remote control from activating it. That's why I'm thinking I'll have to break the power, but I'd rather figure out a way to do it with the control wires, if possible.

 

[CraigFL]

You could set it up to disable one of the control wires for the photo-eye safety circuit. If you break the sender or receiver circuit, the door doesn't go up or down.

 

[Roadster]

You could set it up to disable one of the control wires for the photo-eye safety circuit. If you break the sender or receiver circuit, the door doesn't go up or down.

That's an excellent idea. I'll look into that this weekend. Thanks!

Now I need to figure out where to get those uber-thin control wires. Do you think Radio Shack carries stuff that thin?

 

[Paradise Ridge]

That's an excellent idea. I'll look into that this weekend. Thanks!

Now I need to figure out where to get those uber-thin control wires. Do you think Radio Shack carries stuff that thin?

Depot or just about anybody will have the wire, jusk ask for thermostat wire.

I don't think breaking the photo-eye circut will help. If the beam or wire is broken, the door will still go up, it just won't come back down.

My Genie opener controls have a "Lock-out" feature which disables the whole unit when you want to secure the shop while away. It's a 2 wire system, so I figger there's something internal in the opener itself.

My nickels worth,

Scott

 

[nova65ss]

What brand opener is it? Both Genie and Liftmaster have lock switches on the wall button that disable all of the handheld remotes. Very easy fix if you have one of these brands.

Jimmy

 

[Donzi4me]

What brand opener is it? Both Genie and Liftmaster have lock switches on the wall button that disable all of the handheld remotes. Very easy fix if you have one of these brands.

Jimmy

That's what I have.... Works like a charm..

 

[mbatarga]

Have you considered wiring a light switch to control the power at the GDO outlet? Or did you want this cutoff to occur automatically with the attic stairs dropping?

 

[Roadster]

Paradise Ridge: Thanks for the tip on the thermostat wire (I didn't know what it was called) and the lock-out switch.

nova65ss: It's a Liftmaster Professional 1/3 hp, but the buttons on the wall appear to be generic, lighted buttons chosen by the garage door installer. There is no lock-out feature visible on the wall buttons. Just a lighted button.

mbatarga: No, I hadn't considered wiring a light switch, but if I can't figure out how to access the lock-out feature, that may be my next best option.

My preference is to have the cutoff occur automatically with the attic stairs dropping. That way, when the stairs go back up, I don't have to remember to re-arm the opener. I don't want to run the risk of forgetting and unwittingly locking out my wife. That would not be a good thing.

 

[nova65ss]

Just call a door dealer and buy the deluxe wall switch, depending on how old it is they will work. If you don't park all of the cars in the garage it should have a lock switch anyway. If you don't someone can break into your car parked in the driveway and hit the remote button and have full access to your garage. Cost you about 15 bucks.

Jimmy

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Whats wrong with interrupting the power? Find a switch in the Grainger catalog that has one of those flexible curb feeler things attached to it, mount it on the ceiling on one side of the door, toward the hinge end and wire the power thru it. Cutting the power is a sure fire way to insure it won't somehow operate unexpectedly.

Charles

 

[Roadster]

Just call a door dealer and buy the deluxe wall switch, depending on how old it is they will work. If you don't park all of the cars in the garage it should have a lock switch anyway. If you don't someone can break into your car parked in the driveway and hit the remote button and have full access to your garage. Cost you about 15 bucks.

Jimmy

Thanks, Jimmy. I'll look into that.

I never thought about the possibility of a driveway break-in gaining access to the garage via the remote control, and there are times when I'm working on a project in the garage that I have one or two cars parked outside on the driveway.

Do you have any pictures of what one looks like (maybe a website photo somewhere)?

 

[Roadster]

Whats wrong with interrupting the power? Find a switch in the Grainger catalog that has one of those flexible curb feeler things attached to it, mount it on the ceiling on one side of the door, toward the hinge end and wire the power thru it. Cutting the power is a sure fire way to insure it won't somehow operate unexpectedly.

Charles

Charles, there's no doubt that it will work. I just don't think it's as simple a project since the electrical wiring to the outlet feeding the opener is encased in conduit and inside the attic.

I'd much rather deal with low-voltage control wires anyway.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Charles, there's no doubt that it will work. I just don't think it's as simple a project since the electrical wiring to the outlet feeding the opener is encased in conduit and inside the attic.

I'd much rather deal with low-voltage control wires anyway.

If you don't mind some surface mount stuff showing, you use an extension box on the existing outlet, From the ext box you run conduit of some sort to a box with the switch on it at the stairs. Take the hot wire that was on the outlet, wire nut it to a wire going to the stair switch, and then back from the stair switch. Hook the existing neutral to the outlet you mount on the bottom of the extension box and the wire back from the stair switch to the hot side of the outlet. Make sure you carry a ground out to the stair swtch and install the cover on the outlet. Should take about an hour if you are slow.

Charles

 

[logical]

If you don't mind some surface mount stuff showing, you use an extension box on the existing outlet, From the ext box you run conduit of some sort to a box with the switch on it at the stairs. Take the hot wire that was on the outlet, wire nut it to a wire going to the stair switch, and then back from the stair switch. Hook the existing neutral to the outlet you mount on the bottom of the extension box and the wire back from the stair switch to the hot side of the outlet. Make sure you carry a ground out to the stair swtch and install the cover on the outlet. Should take about an hour if you are slow.

Charles

I think this is the best solution. You want to cut the power and not just rely on the control system locking out the remotes. I have a pantry where I put a door jam switche to light the rooms when the door opens but it kind of works backwards for what you want.

In my old garage, I had storage above the door I needed a ladder to get to. Same problem...not cool if the door opens when I'm up there. I just pulled the release cord on the trolley every time I was up there....just like you would if you lost power and wanted to open it.....it works the opposite too....with it released you can run the opener all you want but the door stays where it is. I sometimes used the wall control lockout as well but never trusted it completely.