cutoff saw table

[48windsor]

I need ideas on how to build a table for cut off saw so I can cut multiple parts same size. So I guess it would need a ruler and a stop for parts.
should I recess the saw?

 

[1mikeg]

I'm finishing up my build of this miter saw stand that was featured in Fine Woodworking #209. Easy build and quite versatile. I would think you could use this with your cut off saw as well.
Here is a link to the issue of Fine Woodworking #209 https://bit.ly/2LXvjf9

https://jeffbranchww.com/2013/06/23/...ing-started-2/

 

[48windsor]

1Mikeg,
Thank you

 

[ndnchf]

This is probably not what you are looking for, but maybe it will give you some ideas. I made this for my chop saw. It was a spare tool stand. I found some junk exercise equipment at Goodwill that had telescoping steel tubes. I used that to make a stock support that pulls out to support longer pieces of steel on the saw. The rig is on wheels so I can roll it out to the driveway. It has its own outlet box and extension cord. I've been using it for 4 or 5 years now and it works great for my needs.

 

[Kaizen]

There is a ton of these builds on you tube. I like with arms on the side that flip up with t tracks and stop blocks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[James-W]

I have the heavy duty DeWalt stand with a DeWalt 12 inch sliding compound miter saw. The side extensions work well and you can set up a stop wherever you want by using a clamp and a piece of wood. In the past I have made numerous "parts" all the same size this way. Works great and although the stand normally costs $200 sometimes you can find the stand on sale. I got the stand for free when I bought saw.

 

[matt_i]

I thought the rip fence was for maintaining length?

So I understand not wanting to be constrained by both the miter gage and the rip fence but if you put a short spacer block of an easy dimension (lets just say 2") against the rip fence and then remove it before use you can just go on the miter gage. You just have to compensate for the additional 2".

 

[BukitCase]

Matt, sounds like you're thinking of a Table saw - a "cutoff" saw, in my mind, would be more of a MITER saw.

Also, even on a table saw "ripping" is done to WIDTH - cross-cutting would be to length.

One of my fancier miter gauges for my Powermatic table saw has built-in stops and extensions for CROSS-cutting pieces to constant length. Kind of a gimmick, people who use table saws usually know about clamping a small block to the rip fence BEHIND where the cut starts, adjust the rip fence so the distance away from the blade (including that block) is the length you want - that way, you slide the miter gauge back to where the block is clamped, slide the piece up against the block on the fence, hold the piece against the miter gauge, move forward and make the cut - WITHOUT having the piece want to bind up by being trapped between the blade and the fence... Steve

 

[matt_i]

Matt, sounds like you're thinking of a Table saw - a "cutoff" saw, in my mind, would be more of a MITER saw.

Yes, I read it wrong earlier, thanks for the correction....somehow table saw got into my mind there

It would be nice to recess the saw. Cam-over clamp and a stick on ruler would be my choice...mcmaster carr has about 300 variants it seems. Some adjustability for the saw to tweak the ruler to match tape measure exactly would be ideal (either in saw mounting or in the fence-mounting or the tell-tale "crosshair") after you design the clamp and the tell-tale. I would be sure to square the sawblade in both axes assuming compound miter saw if there aren't detented stops you trust.

 

[bullnerd]

I made an adjustable stop from Bosch extrusion once. Worked good. I used the plastic stick on tape measure stuff from McMaster to set the length.

I think if I had to make another one, I'd use uni-strut. Would be easy to make an adjustable stop, cheap, readily available and strong.