Cutoff switch for Bendpak

[Theruse]

Finally had my Bendpak h9-ST installed yesterday. Time lapsed video of the install to follow! I have a 10 foot ceiling and barely was able to fit my two cars in. Only about 4 inches to spare at top. Since you have to raise the lift 2 inches to release the locks, i am cutting it pretty close. Anyone have a good suggestion for a relay switch that will automatically shut off the raise if I get too close to the ceiling.

 

[Kevin54]

You don't have a cutoff switch on the top of the motor that you can rig up a wire to? It would be a stem sticking up that pulls up. But it would be up to you to rig up the wire to it. I know that my WORTH has it.

 

[Jpnwes]

Don't know anything about lifts, but I would guess there is a limit switch built in to cut control power at max high. Maybe this switch can be adjusted to cut at lower than max height? One may also be able to series wire an external limit switch to control power circuit. Simple examples would be an installing / adjusting limit switches on garage opener track, or a motorized roll up door limit switch.

 

[rburke65]

Maybe you could call Mr. Bendpak and ask if they have a suggestion.

 

[matt_i]

If I had this problem to solve: What I want is a photoeye, check Banner Engineering for a large selection. I feel that SICK, Pepperl+Fuchs also are competitors which will have a similar selection. You mount it opposed to a reflector, the PE gets mounted on one column, the reflector on the other column. In normal state, the PE "sees" the reflection, so, If the light beam is broken then the internal normally-closed (NC) contact changes state this inhibits power to your "jog up" contactor. Probably easiest if the PE uses 120vac but you will find a lot of them that use 24vdc, necessitating a low amp power supply and a 24vdc-coil relay.

Ideally mount PE and reflector on unistrut so the distance below the ceiling is easily adjustable.

Also...suppose you jog the lift into the situation where it is stopped. Now you have to get it out of that condtion, and might have to jog up some slight bit more to get the latch(es) released. So you will probably need a momentary pushbutton or keyed switch to override/bypass/jumper the inhibiting effect of the NC contact going open. Choose very carefully when actuating the PE override button.....

Additional fanciness would be an indicator light to denote that this is the problem so one doesn't jump to other conclusions like the power is out, breaker tripped, start cap has burned up on the motor, etc, etc.

If this seems interesting I will draw up some ladder logic.

 

[logical]

I put a piece of yellow tape on the post where the power unit is located. When the bottom of the crossbeam lines up with the tape, its high enough. I'm not super tight on height so my mark is just to tell me its high enough for a normal person to walk under the runway (6'8" which is roughly standard interior residential door frame opening, anybody that has to duck thru doorways learns to watch his head) and I'm still 8 inches or so shy of hitting the closest overhead thing.

I don't think I'd want a shut off.

 

[PoorOwner]

I wired up float switches for aquarium and when the float is at top it triggers the relay magnet and the hot to the pump (your 87 or 87a in 12v speak) is shut off the receptacle.

This is pretty much the same thing except you need to get spring loaded pins like alarm installers use for hood popping

I also have the floats wired in parallel or might have been series so if one switch is stuck or think it is down the other switch will still shut it off.

 

[Stuart in MN]

II put a piece of yellow tape on the post where the power unit is located. When the bottom of the crossbeam lines up with the tape, its high enough.

I used a piece of tape as well. Simple and free.

 

[brownbagg]

yes its called common sense, be aware of what you doing