Cutting 1/2" plate

ChevyEFI · May 7, 2015

I have easy access (owner said "take it!") to a 4' x 5' piece of steel. Very few drilled holes. My immediate thought is workbench / trans. teardown bench. As I don't have acres of space, it would need trimmed; maybe approximately in half. However, I lack a way to cut it.

In taking it somewhere, I won't need ultra precision but a reasonably straight edge would obviously be preferred. I don't want the edge to look like my welds. :bounce:

What kind of shop would I take it to and what kind of tool would best be used?

(East valley) Phoenix references welcomed.

I've worked with sheetmetal, not plate this size so this is outside my wheelhouse.

disclaimer: all dimensions are approximate. Thanks.

fnieto · May 7, 2015

Torch or plasma would be the cheapest. Check with a local steel supplier, many will offer cutting services. Many welding shops in Phoenix as well.

slip knot · May 7, 2015

Any welding shop should be able to cut this easy enough. 4X5X1/2 is a nice chunk of steel. better get some help loading it.

rsanter · May 8, 2015

That is too nice to cut. How about trade for a workbench you can use or some steel you can make into a workbench

Bob

kazlx · May 8, 2015

A steel place could probably shear it, or at the least gas axe or plasma it. IMO worth the few bucks to just have it done. Or maybe if you only need half, see if you can trade half the plate to someone that could cut it and trade for some frame materials. No money out of pocket...

zkling · May 8, 2015

Old circular saw, a few abrasive blades and a straight edge. Done. Or see if you can rent an actual metal cutting circular saw. Or if you know someone that has a decent sized plasma cutter.

I'd personally rip it to 4'x2' and 4'x3'

Jack Olsen · May 8, 2015

Cleaner and simpler than abrasive, get an ordinary 7-1/4" circular saw and a Freud Diablo metal-cutting blade (Freud D0738F). You'll get a mirror edge cut that's as straight as the straight-edge you clamp to the piece. You won't have to move that big piece, either -- which is a pretty big deal if you don't have three friends or some serious equipment.

Treat the $29 blade as a sacrifice, and you'll be thrilled by the extra cuts you get after this one. Just take it slow and don't let the blade get hot. It will be a cleaner cut than plasma, even.

This is a video of me testing the idea out with a piece of 3/16" plate. Same idea, except you're going to be asking more of the blade.

ADSR · May 8, 2015

Would be like a 40 to 60 buck cut at the local waterjet shop.

ChevyEFI · May 8, 2015

Yes, it's a hefty piece. I will elaborate on my plans to move it after a successful move.

Bob, since I'm not in a hurry on this project, I may see what I can do.

I sincerely wish the cabinets I'll be adding soon were closer to 40" rather than 60". Then I'd go straight to a 60(?) x 28 cut and would need to make no decisions or designs.

Jack, thanks for the recommendation on the blade. I believe I'll head in that direction you & z suggested.

dr_clyde · May 8, 2015

Best cut would probably be a waterjet or laser. Shear will slightly deform the edge, but would be straight. Plasma or burn table would be fine too. Hand torch would depend on the operator to be nice.

Last resort IMHO would be a saw of some sort. But for cost of buying a blade, a shop could do a much nicer job with less hassle on your part.

tarbellb · May 8, 2015

If moving it is a pain, use the circ saw w/ metal blade. (w/ face mask!!)

Just be sure its a worm drive circ, or a disposable sidewinder (it will smoke).

dr clyde is right about the other options and cost.

ADSR · May 8, 2015

dr_clyde said:
Best cut would probably be a waterjet or laser. Shear will slightly deform the edge, but would be straight. Plasma or burn table would be fine too. Hand torch would depend on the operator to be nice.

Last resort IMHO would be a saw of some sort. But for cost of buying a blade, a shop could do a much nicer job with less hassle on your part.

This^^

1/2 plate with a circ saw is crazy. It's going to make so much heat the blade isn't going to live many inches, let alone feet.

Jack Olsen · May 8, 2015

In my experience, you get huge amounts of heat with an abrasive disc. But there's not much heat at all with a metal-cutting blade like the Freud. (Treated/hardened steel is a different animal.)

MoonRise · May 8, 2015

Although I have used the metal-cutting Freud circular saw blade (and others) and generally like them within their limits, I would not use a blade made to cut 1/4" thick max plate to cut through some 1/2" thick plate.

http://www.diablotools.com/products/product/D0748F

Within their limits, those metal cutting blades are waaaay faster and easier and cut cleaner (will leave pretty much a razor-sharp 'milled' edge on the cut line, watch out because that edge is SHARP) than an abrasive blade in a circular saw.

But for some 1/2" thick plate, I'd go for plasma or an oxy-fuel cut. With a reasonably competent operator (or a CNC table with reasonably competent operating parameters being set

), the cut edge should be plenty 'accurate' enough for a workbench top.

You can also cut through 1/2" plate with a jig saw or recip saw with appropriate metal-cutting blades, but it will be much-much slower than a plasma or oxy-fuel cut.

A BIG vertical bandsaw (portaband won't have the throat depth to make that cut) could cut the plate, the issue would be feeding that 408 lb slab of plate.

A steel yard/supplier would usually have a shear that can cut that plate, but you will usually get some sort of 'rolled' edge like dr. clyde mentioned.

But 4'x5'? I'd really just leave it as is and use or make a frame to hold the plate. Result would be a sturdy and solid (make sure the frame is solid there) workbench or welding bench. The plate 'only' weighs 408 lbs, give or take.

To get 'fancy', I -might- cut the plate into a 4'x3' and a 4'x2' piece and make 'identical' frames and some sort of way to connect the two tops and benches into one larger 4'x'5' workbench. This way when working on some smaller projects, you can use the smaller benches and still have a way to reconnect the tops into a larger work surface for larger jobs/task.

kelpaso1 · May 8, 2015

Jack Olsen said:
In my experience, you get huge amounts of heat with an abrasive disc. But there's not much heat at all with a metal-cutting blade like the Freud. (Treated/hardened steel is a different animal.)

Jack, watched your video. I never knew you could cut heavy steel like that. Where would you buy such a blade?

kazlx · May 8, 2015

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ3B/?tag=atomicindus08-20

LLave · May 8, 2015

You can have it cut on a shear. A big shear. There is a shop in my area that can sheer 1" plate.

ADSR · May 8, 2015

kazlx said:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ3B/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Been there and got the T-shirt. Not going to touch 1/2 plate.

ChevyEFI · May 8, 2015

ChevyEFI said:
Yes, it's a hefty piece. I will elaborate on my plans to move it after a successful move.

Or after an unsuccessful one.

I lifted it vertical, then dropped it on my little cart. (I should add it's close to home; no truck needed)

My cart had no problem with the weight. But I used the the handle to lift the far end of the plate off the ground and the handle broke.

Plan B should be an effort to cut it at the current resting place. Getting home the pieces after should be cake in comparison.

As to the circ. saw / metal blade contentions by both sides of the argument, a $30 risk is probably worthwhile. Or not.

rustyjames · May 8, 2015

I was under the impression that those circular blades were only good up to 5/16. I wouldn't even consider an abrasive blade. Oxy-Fuel would probably be the most efficient since it's only going to be used as a bench.

LLave · May 8, 2015

A note about the metal cutting saw blades in circular saws, they sell slower turning metal cutting circular saws. You put that blade in your typical wood cutting circular saw and you are going to burn it up in thicker material.

Jack Olsen · May 8, 2015

I'm not advocating it. And if you can get a slower circular saw, like a worm drive, then you'll be ahead of the game (the blade is rated for something like 5600 rpm, but slower would be better). I remember a guy on this board using this setup for 3/4" plate without any issue. So even though it's more than the blade's official capacity, I suspect it will work out fine.

But that's just speculation on my part. You're a grown-up and need to make your own decisions. I haven't had a need to cut anything that thick with my circular saw, so I don't have first-hand experience.

I would get the one with a lower tooth count for thicker material. It's cheaper, too.

INSP380 · May 8, 2015

Piece of angle or plate to use as a straight edge, hand plasma with a drag tip . Quick, clean done an over. Been in a fab shop for over 26 years, you show up with a circular saw you better be cutting wood. Just because you can, don't mean its right or safe.

Steve

lotsoftools · May 8, 2015

If you have to load it on the truck to carry it home, I would just find a good shop you can stop by on the way home. Plasma or oxy, a skilled operator can cut it straight and smooth in just a few minutes. I'm sure you could find somewhere to do that for fairly cheap.

cg81 · May 8, 2015

I bought the Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw last year. It only turns around 5600rpm and cuts very good. The thickest I have cut with it has been 4 inch channel, but I think it is rated for 3/4 plate. It would probably go right through your piece of metal if you take your time and don't push it too hard.

RivennHewn · May 8, 2015

cg81 said:
I bought the Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw last year. It only turns around 5600rpm and cuts very good. The thickest I have cut with it has been 4 inch channel, but I think it is rated for 3/4 plate. It would probably go right through your piece of metal if you take your time and don't push it too hard.

Run the saw 1/2 depth, then reset the saw to full depth and finish the cut.

I have the Milwaukee, and I've made a few cuts thru 3/4".

Good straight edge clamped tight and slow feed rate.

Let it rest if it starts getting hot.

McLean · May 9, 2015

I have cut 1/2" mild steel plate with one of those Diablo blades. Got through about 3' before it went completely dull. That was going very easy on it too.

Feel free to give it a shot. Just consider a couple of them as consumables.

Let us know what you come up with!

PCO6 · May 9, 2015

I haven't had the need to cut 1/2" (yet) but I've cut 1/4" with this and it's done a great job. I'm sure it could go through 1/2" if I took my time.

View media item 34368

dkroth · May 9, 2015

cg81 said:
I bought the Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw last year. It only turns around 5600rpm and cuts very good. The thickest I have cut with it has been 4 inch channel, but I think it is rated for 3/4 plate. It would probably go right through your piece of metal if you take your time and don't push it too hard.

AvE on youtube says the 8" Milwaukee saw is rated at 3700. He checked it and it came in at 3794 rpm. Maybe he has a different model.

cg81 · May 9, 2015

I think that's right, trying to remember it when I posted earlier. I never thought much of that type of saw, couldn't believe it could possibly cut steel until I watched a few YouTube videos on it and was instantly sold. It does work and is currently my new favorite tool.

Fluxion · May 9, 2015

I have the Evolution Rage 1 and have made a few cuts in 3/4" makes a real nice cut too, just have to go slow. I made two 2 foot cuts in 3\8" plate yesterday, took it slow about a minute per cut. I like to clamp a wood straight edge on each side of the saw foot to help stabilize the cut and it really makes a difference VS a guide board on one side.

Dennis Leigh Henry · May 9, 2015

I've yet to SEE any examples of any successful cuts as described by the various methods... anyone have pictures? I know that these all can work..and I have seen (previously) the youtube/video on plasma.. and watched Jack's on the .1875" material.. all interesting.

I'm particularly interested in how the circular saw cuts look on thick metal (.5" or better) on long cuts.. Pictures please.. and.. any cutting fluids used or just let the sparks and chips fly??

Fluxion · May 9, 2015

Dennis Leigh Henry said:
I've yet to SEE any examples of any successful cuts as described by the various methods... anyone have pictures? I know that these all can work..and I have seen (previously) the youtube/video on plasma.. and watched Jack's on the .1875" material.. all interesting.

I'm particularly interested in how the circular saw cuts look on thick metal (.5" or better) on long cuts.. Pictures please.. and.. any cutting fluids used or just let the sparks and chips fly??

Here's a few pics because this thread needs more pics! Here I am making a couple shackle mounts for a bumper I built, these go through the bumper and are bolted to the frame. This is 3/4"x 3", the angle ends were cut freehand with my Rage1 saw. I know they are crappy pics but you can kind of see the cut, best I've got tonight.

This pic is after cleaning them up on a belt sander.

This is a pic of the bumper before I cut and finished the ends.

I'll look and see if I have anything laying around thicker than 1/2" I can cut tomorrow and take a better pic.

AndyA · May 10, 2015

O/A or plasma would be the fastest most pain-free method.
It takes more time to setup the guide than it does to cut.
The cut is straight, but has a slightly rough surface finish. I just used a 4-1/2 grinder to knock off the corners, but left the bulk of the surface alone. It works fine for a shop table.

fred d · May 10, 2015

I have a saw called Steelmax
It is similar to the Milwaukee

I have the 9" one and it would cut the 1/2 plate no problem

I wish you were in my area I would like to have the leftover

Steffan · May 10, 2015

I just did a similar set up with my table: cut a 5' length out of 1/2" T1 steel. As was stated above, used a straight edge, old circular saw and an abrasive blade. Took some time but I got a nice straight and clean cut. I ran the length of it in progressively deeper cuts - seemed to work better than a full depth cut

gte718p · May 11, 2015

The HF metal cutting circular saw is pretty decent for the price. I've cut 1/2 plate on multiple occasions. Slow and steady with a straight edge and you will get a great straight cut.

ilovevocs · May 11, 2015

My brothers has the Milwaukee, he uses it allot. I have used it on some .5" and it cuts very well. I was skeptical myself even after watching you tube videos; using it made me a believer. For the price point and versatility it cant be beat. Ill buy one some day for sure.

Spudland_Dave · May 11, 2015

LLave said:
A note about the metal cutting saw blades in circular saws, they sell slower turning metal cutting circular saws. You put that blade in your typical wood cutting circular saw and you are going to burn it up in thicker material.

There are blades designed to work at & with various RPM's...the Lenox I got was perfectly fine in my normal Milwaukee saw.

Dennis Leigh Henry said:
I'm particularly interested in how the circular saw cuts look on thick metal (.5" or better) on long cuts.. Pictures please.. and.. any cutting fluids used or just let the sparks and chips fly??

I will post a couple pics tonight...they are all on my home computer. But I chopped up a 4'x8' sheet with a Lenox blade with NO Issue.

gte718p said:
The HF metal cutting circular saw is pretty decent for the price. I've cut 1/2 plate on multiple occasions. Slow and steady with a straight edge and you will get a great straight cut.

POS, POS, POS... I had the bigger HF "Metal Cutting Saw"...It was BRAND new and it burnt out making the first 4' long cut thru my plate. I started the 60" long cut after and it was officially dead...I wanted to get it done so I checked the RPM ratings on my good LENOX metal cutting blade and it was perfectly fine to run in my "normal" Milwaukee circular saw...I could have saved money and not wasted my time on the HF, my Milwaukee cut that sheet just as easy as cutting 3/4" MDF... Left a BEAUTIFUL, better then factory edge.

Without a doubt, metal cutting blade and a big boy circular saw is no issue.

Dennis Leigh Henry · May 11, 2015

To all.. way too cool that a circ saw chews thru steel like that.. Dang.. another thing on my father's day list....... :beer:

Cutting 1/2" plate

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