cutting 16Ga stainless steel

[BTL-A4]

I need to cut a 9" x 4-5/8" rectangle out of one corner of a 24"x 96" 16 Ga stainless steel sheet. It needs to look neat and straight. Discoloring from heat is ok. Can I use a circular saw with a steel-cutting blade (one of those abrasive ones), or is there a better way?

Perhaps a jig saw with some sort of metal-cutting blade? Seems like it would be really slow and not very straight, even with an edge guide.

Thought I'd tap the wisdom of the crowd before proceeding.

 

[readhead]

Cut off wheel on a grinder would make short work of it. Used to cut a lot of stainless with a sawzall but it is tough to stay straight and you need some kind of lube.

 

[lilredex]

Something like this will do it. Metal cutting blades are available too. I got one at Menards last time there, but haven't used it yet.

Or a bench shear if you have one.

 

[harley jim]

As already said another vote for cut off wheel

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk

 

[The Cobbler]

another vote for angle grinder & cut off wheel
use a pc of angle or wood clamped in place as a straight edge

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

another vote for angle grinder & cut off wheel
use a pc of angle or wood clamped in place as a straight edge

Exactly how I did mine, used the wood for straight edge.

 

[Jazz1]

Band saw. You will never regret buying it. No sparks, clean cuts.

 

[tarbellb]

4.5" grinder and 3/32" cutting blade. 5 mins tops.

You can scotchbrite the ss after if needed.

 

[dogdog]

Stainless is pretty hard for blades...

for the OP yes you can use a straight edge as a guide and a metal abrasive blade for your circular saw... if you can adjust the depth to be 1/2 or 1/3 way of the 16 gauge and do a 1st pass without cutting all the way through... the second pass will be clean and easier... at least that is what I find than trying to drop the blade all the way down and try to cut...

 

[fiftyv8]

I generally go down to my local sheet metal shop where I have built up a relationship with the owner.
I try to buy metal thru him as a gesture and always pay cash.
This in return provides me with opportunity to have him cut sheet to size with his guillotine or fold an edge etc if required and it usually costs me little or nothing.

I go to the trouble of providing a sketch or scribing lines to make life easy for both of us.

 

[matt_i]

Band saw. You will never regret buying it. No sparks, clean cuts.

Ye shall also buy many blades if you expect to cut 16ga stainless steel on a vertical bandsaw.

The rule of thumb is 3 teeth of engagement in the workpiece. Best of luck finding a 48tpi bandsaw blade....they aren't made and using a coarser blade on thin sheet always causes teeth to be knocked out.

Not saying a bandsaw is not a great tool to own but not the right tool for this job imo. The thin cutoff disk mentioned, cleanup with a file would be my choice.

 

[BTL-A4]

How would I add some sort of guide to a cut-off wheel or angle grinder? I can't weld, like in the video. I might be able to fab something; I have a mill and lathe, but this seems like a lot of work for a one-time use tool. Although, I might find other uses for it if I have it!

Did you all see that the piece I'm trying to cut is 2 feet by 8 feet? I'm taking a notch out of one corner. I'd like it to look neat and tidy since it will show.

16 Ga SS is 1/16" thick and this piece weighs about 80 lbs, so I'm not sure a bench cutter would work, even if I could manage to hold the metal sheet and use the cutter, even with someone helping.

Looks like I can use a circular saw with a metal blade, I just need to not try to make the cut all at once.

I'll also look into having the metal supply place cut it, but that might be pricey.

 

[BTL-A4]

Something like this will do it. Metal cutting blades are available too. I got one at Menards last time there, but haven't used it yet.

Or a bench shear if you have one.

Thanks, this was interesting. Too bad they don't make an attachment for grinders like this!

 

[The Cobbler]

seriously, an angle grinder (assuming you have one) with a SS cut off wheel, clamp on a pc of wood or steel as a fence guide is the easiest.

 

[kazlx]

Just scribe your cuts, get close with a cutoff wheel and then walk up to the line with some files and/or flap disk. Super easy if you have a little finesse and will look good.

 

[racingtadpole]

Ye shall also buy many blades if you expect to cut 16ga stainless steel on a vertical bandsaw.

The rule of thumb is 3 teeth of engagement in the workpiece. Best of luck finding a 48tpi bandsaw blade....they aren't made and using a coarser blade on thin sheet always causes teeth to be knocked out.

Not saying a bandsaw is not a great tool to own but not the right tool for this job imo. The thin cutoff disk mentioned, cleanup with a file would be my choice.

I use a 10/14 blade for pretty much everything, on thinner stuff I cut through a piece of scrap timber.

 

[readhead]

Just clamp anything straight as a guide and cut on the line or as mentioned leave the line and finish up with a file or sanding disc on the same grinder. By the way at 2’ x 8’ your piece is only forty pounds. Is it a counter top?

 

[HMCFab9]

Plasma cutter with a straight edge.
You'd be done in a couple minutes

 

[danski0224]

Define "straight".

The best cut will be from a hydraulic shear.

There are carbide tipped circular saw blades available that cut ferrous material. This will get the job done. It will re-define LOUD and it throws little teeny tiny and HOT chips, so eye protection is mandatory (goggles, not just glasses). A specific metal cutting circular saw has a different guard system to keep the chips contained.

I would use a ferrous cutting carbide tipped blade before an abrasive cutoff disc in a circular saw.

Yes, there are specialized jig saw blades that will do the job, most stores stock much more than just wood cutting blades now. Just keep the stroke speed down, fast will burn up the blade. The jig saw can be run along a guide for a straight cut. At a minimum, safety glasses are strongly recommended.

The carbide tipped blade or jigsaw will not throw sparks or debris like an angle grinder. I would choose the jigsaw first then the circular saw for this cut. The grinder would be a last resort for me.

 

[welder4956]

Using tools that I have available at home, I would go to HD and get a couple of these to use with my DeWalt 4-1/2" grinder. They have worked well for me cutting sheet metal, but you need a good line to follow during the cut. I use masking tape to layout the line and cut along the side of the tape without touching it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-4-1-2-in-x-0-040-in-x-7-8-in-Thin-Kerf-Metal-Cut-Off-Disc-DBD045040101F/202830995

 

[welder4956]

Band saw. You will never regret buying it. No sparks, clean cuts.

Band saw to cut a corner off a 24" x 96" sheet of metal?

 

[sqznby]

Band saw to cut a corner off a 24" x 96" sheet of metal?

I was thinking the same thing hahaha, some of the suggestions are just silly.



If it were a smaller piece that was easy to handle, I think a band saw would work fine for this, put the appropriate blade on dial in the speed and be done with it. Hell, even a porta band would do it if it would cut deep enough.

Seems like the OP is set on using a skill saw with abrasive blade. Which will work well, just set up a guide and roll with it.

This is all for a 9" x 4-4/5" piece of ss Just cut it

 

[lilredex]

Thanks, this was interesting. Too bad they don't make an attachment for grinders like this!

You can make one without welding, just bolt those arms to the base. You will definitely find many uses for that accessory down the road.



I completed a similar project a while back. I had a 2 X 3 FT 12 Ga. SS sheet that came with a 90* bend close to the edge. It was perfect for a gauge panel. A grinder with a thin blade did the job with amazing accuracy, very little clean up was needed.

 

[redidbull]

I bought one of these years ago and have used it often. Set up a straight edge and go. Jim
https://www.harborfreight.com/safety-guard-for-angle-grinders-61680.html

 

[lilredex]

Good one! I'll get a couple next time at HF.

Thanks for that.

 

[tarbellb]

Learning to use a 4.5" grinder w/ cutting disc will benefit anyone doing any fab work.


The best way I have found to cut any thin metal sheet w/ the grinder-

_Use the thinnest blade possible, typically =< 3/32"

_Then I like to let the grinder walk itself up (pushing away from yourself, with the rotation) the scribe/line, doing a 1/2 depth pass.


By running the grinder rotation away from you it wants to stay on straight line. (think runaway tire )

_ Final pass is only 1/2 the thickness and will easily pass through, making the final cut merely a follow of the initial pass. Easy money.

Ive done 100's of linear feet this way, with tolerances under 1/16" over 96", or near perfect at under 12".
____________

Like others have mentioned, clamping a straight edge (1/8" flat bar) yields excellent, repeatable, results.

 

[Slackerzinc]

As someone that uses zipcut disks a lot, DO NOT BUY THESE!!! Only buy the dished zipcuts, pretty much every horror story you’ve heard about zip cut are from these flat ones. When they fracture they become very dangerous, the dished ones are a lot safer.

Using tools that I have available at home, I would go to HD and get a couple of these to use with my DeWalt 4-1/2" grinder. They have worked well for me cutting sheet metal, but you need a good line to follow during the cut. I use masking tape to layout the line and cut along the side of the tape without touching it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-4-1-2-in-x-0-040-in-x-7-8-in-Thin-Kerf-Metal-Cut-Off-Disc-DBD045040101F/202830995

 

[metlmunchr]

Got a link to the wheels you're recommending?

I've only been using 4" and 4 1/2" grinders for 30 years, but I've never seen a depressed center cutoff wheel for them.

Plenty of grinding wheels in both flat and depressed center, but only flat ones for cutoff use.

 

[welder4956]

Got a link to the wheels you're recommending?

I've only been using 4" and 4 1/2" grinders for 30 years, but I've never seen a depressed center cutoff wheel for them.

Plenty of grinding wheels in both flat and depressed center, but only flat ones for cutoff use.

I think he means these:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-4-1-2-in-x-1-16-in-x-7-8-in-Metal-Cut-Off-Disc-with-Type-27-Depressed-Center-DBD045063701F/202830999

I have used both and not had any problems with either one. I agree the depressed center ones are a little stiffer and probably safer.

 

[Slackerzinc]

Yes those, will take a lot more abuse

 

[metlmunchr]

Had no idea anyone made such a thing. I can see where they would work especially well if you're trying to cut something flush with another surface, as opposed to a flat one where the arbor and nut come out past the surface of the wheel.

 

[BTL-A4]

Define "straight".

The best cut will be from a hydraulic shear.

There are carbide tipped circular saw blades available that cut ferrous material. This will get the job done. It will re-define LOUD and it throws little teeny tiny and HOT chips, so eye protection is mandatory (goggles, not just glasses). A specific metal cutting circular saw has a different guard system to keep the chips contained.

I would use a ferrous cutting carbide tipped blade before an abrasive cutoff disc in a circular saw.

Yes, there are specialized jig saw blades that will do the job, most stores stock much more than just wood cutting blades now. Just keep the stroke speed down, fast will burn up the blade. The jig saw can be run along a guide for a straight cut. At a minimum, safety glasses are strongly recommended.

The carbide tipped blade or jigsaw will not throw sparks or debris like an angle grinder. I would choose the jigsaw first then the circular saw for this cut. The grinder would be a last resort for me.

This blade, right?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-...us-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D0748CFR/307789803

Should I cut thru all at once, or make multiple passes?

I wear goggles most of the time. I'll clean the saw out so the hot chips don't ignite the sawdust. My saw is an older, all-metal one, too.

 

[BTL-A4]

Thanks for the advice, everyone. I really appreciate it. Here's my responses to various things in various posts:

I have an angle grinder, die grinder and a circular saw. I'd like to use one of these since I have them and it seems like they will work. I'm looking for advice before I do something stupid.

The piece does weigh 40 lbs, not 80. Thanks for the correction!

The HF angle grinder guard might work, thanks for the tip!

Thanks for the tip about using a dished grinder wheel.

I'm making a workbench and this top piece will show, so I want the cut to look nice and straight.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

The disc has to break down fast enough not to load but hard enough to last for a while. And be balanced to be smooth running. I gladly pay the extra for Walter ZipCuts . For the grinder, one with the 3rd top hole for the handle makes it easier. You did keep your guard on didn't you? Use a all leather glove for your off hand. Those fabric backed ones catch fire.

 

[James-W]

If I needed a really nice straight and clean cut, I would go to a fabrication shop and have them cut it for me. Not saying that you can't do a good job at cutting the stainless steel in your shop, for all I know it will turn out perfect. All I am saying is, a fabrication shop will have the equipment on hand with which to do the job and let's face it, they do this sort of thing all the time so I have to assume they are really good at doing it.

 

[dogdog]

This blade, right?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-...us-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D0748CFR/307789803

Should I cut thru all at once, or make multiple passes?

I wear goggles most of the time. I'll clean the saw out so the hot chips don't ignite the sawdust. My saw is an older, all-metal one, too.

that blade might not be good for stainless or at least it won't last....

Not saw what type of circular saw you have, if yours is design for metal... and not just metal body... they do have them..

read the comment of that blade in your post..

Use on Evolution, Jancy, MK Morse, & other low RPM saws
Cuts steel studs, angle iron, channel, conduit, & threaded rod
Up to 40x longer life than standard abrasive discs

they are referring to these type of circular saws... if that is what you have... then yes... still stainless is pretty hard on them, I ruin a 14" stainless blade cutting them 16ga stainless pretty bad.

sample like these, there are other brand, even HF had one...but they are different than your normal circular saw...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Evoluti...teel-Cutting-Circular-Saw-EVOSAW230/204302753

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Evoluti...rd-and-Multi-Material-Blade-R185CCS/307386589

Dewalt have this abrasive formulated for stainless , last pretty good... I got mine from homedepot but don't know why I can't find on their website any more... their XP series is also pretty good... and no the HF ones is not the same... still good but doesn't last as long... Dewalt last about 3x more than the HF blades... and less dust... but more expensive.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01602Y0J8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[danski0224]

This blade, right?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-...us-Metal-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D0748CFR/307789803

Should I cut thru all at once, or make multiple passes?

I wear goggles most of the time. I'll clean the saw out so the hot chips don't ignite the sawdust. My saw is an older, all-metal one, too.

That blade will work. It should certainly last long enough to make less than 24" of cut in 16 ga material.

Cut it all at once. Set the depth so the blade is about an eighth to a quarter inch below the material you are cutting. You will want to set up a guide for the saw, not only for a straight line but also to keep eyes away from the blade.

The amount of material thrown off by the blade is no less than when cutting wood. I don't like using this type of blade in a saw made for wood cutting, but if I do, I'll wear a hoodie with the hood on, a face shield and goggles. Earplugs too.

For your planned cut, I'd go buy a few nice jigsaw blades, keep the stroke speed down, set up a guide and get it done.

I'd use the circular saw for a much longer cut, not this.

 

[MoonRise]

Oh, come on folks. This IS Garage Journal after all.

He NEEDS to go buy some new tools to do the job.

A CNC plasma cutter or a CNC water-jet cutter is -obviously- needed to do this task.

(those tools/machine WILL do the job, the plasma cutter can also be used in hand-held mode if the appropriate model is used.)

Hmmm, 16 gauge stainless sheet, approx 9" x 5" cut length. That's about 30 seconds of cut time for a hand-held 30 amp plasma cutter, not counting clamping some sort of straight-edge guide to the sheet if you don't want to totally free-hand the cut. Based not on the machine's output amperage, but more on a human's ability to move the torch smoothly and evenly at about 20 ipm max. A 30 amp mechanized (CNC) plasma would make that same cut at about 180 ipm cut speed in 16 gauge stainless, so about 5 seconds cut time. Hypertherm plasma cutters ROCK.

There are jigsaw blades made to cut stainless sheet metal.

https://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/stainless-steel-cutting-t-shank-jig-saw-blades.aspx

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-metal-t118ahm3-29728-p/

If cutting sheet metal with a jig saw, you do have to clamp/support the sheet top AND bottom to keep the sheet from bouncing up-and-down like crazy.

Or you can just use a cut-off wheel (standard abrasive style or the 'newer' diamond rim versions for an angle grinder).

https://www.diablotools.com/products/DDD045DIA101F

And Diablo also makes a carbide-tipped metal-cutting blade 'rated' to cut stainless steel to go in a 'regular' 7 - 1/4" circular saw (with METAL guards ONLY!!!). Again, clamping/supporting thin sheet metal is VITAL when doing such cuts.

https://www.diablotools.com/products/D0748CFA

 

[danski0224]

Well, Trumpf has a billion dollar machine center that can do the job no problem, and all robotic.

 

[rsanter]

Plasma, first choice.
Cutoff wheel, second choice