Cutting and drilling thin stainless

[PoorOwner]

So I found a piece of stainless I was told it is non ferrous 1/32.
That works out like just a little thicker than 22 gauge.

I have the electric shear from HF would that work to cut straight or should I use a jig saw?

whats the best way to attach it to plywood top? I am thinking just some screws around the perimeter

Also need to drill 4 large holes for vise and I was wondering the best way to avoid denting or distorting it when drilling. Maybe hole saw first or does unibit does pretty good for sheet metal?

The target size is 20"x20" and its essentially a spark guard for fabrication

 

[yaidunno]

If your shear is rated for 18 ga. or thicker mild steel, it will cut the stainless without issue. The unibit will be your best bet for making the holes.

 

[PoorOwner]

If your shear is rated for 18 ga. or thicker mild steel, it will cut the stainless without issue. The unibit will be your best bet for making the holes.

I think it is 14 gauge but real life not sure, it did cut a little bit of car door but seemed to stop when the contour changes. But should cut this stainless easy

I have not tried to cut straight with it, do you just clamp down a guide and push it along?

 

[tarbellb]

Cutting will be a pain if you cant use the shear. Would recommend clamping it to a piece you can burn ie plywood and using a circ saw w/ metal blade, that will reduce vibrations and tendency to warp/bend.

Absolutely go with a pilot hole then step-bit in this case, thats exactly what they are designed for.

 

[ilovevocs]

I would rough cut it to within an 1/8 with the electric sheer and do the final cut with my offsets.

Really I would stick it in the sheer, set the back gauge and push the pedal; but if I was on a job site the above would be my approach.

You don't need fasteners a for connection. Contact adhesive if your surface is monolithic, if it has allot of variation use liquid nails, spread it so its thin and uniform with a piece of scrap wood, set the sheet on top and roll it in with a neoprene roller. The kind made for laminate counter top work. You can use wooden dowls to get the piece in position prior to the final set.


If screwing is the only option predrill the holes and just snug the fasteners. Don't over tighten, just right enough to hold it in place.



If you screw it it's going to oil can like a mofo.

 

[Crusarius]

When you drill it DRILL SLOWLY!

Stainless gets hot fast and gets real hard once you heat it.

 

[geologist]

When you drill it DRILL SLOWLY!

Stainless gets hot fast and gets real hard once you heat it.

It also holds heat significantly longer than carbon steel.

 

[cnc-me]

Plasma cut it?

 

[PoorOwner]

I would rough cut it to within an 1/8 with the electric sheer and do the final cut with my offsets.

Really I would stick it in the sheer, set the back gauge and push the pedal; but if I was on a job site the above would be my approach.

You don't need fasteners a for connection. Contact adhesive if your surface is monolithic, if it has allot of variation use liquid nails, spread it so its thin and uniform with a piece of scrap wood, set the sheet on top and roll it in with a neoprene roller. The kind made for laminate counter top work. You can use wooden dowls to get the piece in position prior to the final set.


If screwing is the only option predrill the holes and just snug the fasteners. Don't over tighten, just right enough to hold it in place.



If you screw it it's going to oil can like a mofo.

I was going to look into liquid nails also but it always seems too thick when I squeeze and create like a hydraulic pressure and uneven.

I have been using a v notch trowel and wood glue on wood and seems good

Liquid nails is too thick I am not sure how well it would work? I worry I will have too much glue and it won't sit flat even after I roll it

 

[Crusarius]

if you have smooth clean surface you are adhering to contact cement is the best way to go.

If you are mounting a vice to it that will keep it from moving to. The contact cement just keeps stuff from getting under the edges.

 

[PoorOwner]

What do I use to apply the contact cement? I need to apply on both piece right ?
I think I need the laminate roller over the top without denting the stainless no matter the adhesive.

It is plywood top with smooth birch grain

 

[Crusarius]

you can buy spray cans of contact cement. works great. spray both pieces (bench and back of stainless). allow to get tacky. then adhere. Just make sure you get it right the first time cause if not its a pain to peel back off.

I usually spray both halves then lay pieces of wood across the bench over the contact cement. then you set the steel where you want it and slide the sticks out and press down.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Extremely thin stainless (<1.0mm) cut quite nicely with good kitchen shears !

 

[kazlx]

If you're in Socal I can cnc plasma it for you.

 

[ilovevocs]

I was going to look into liquid nails also but it always seems too thick when I squeeze and create like a hydraulic pressure and uneven.



I have been using a v notch trowel and wood glue on wood and seems good



Liquid nails is too thick I am not sure how well it would work? I worry I will have too much glue and it won't sit flat even after I roll it

If your using MDF contact adhesive will work fine. I would be hesitant to use it on cdx. For cdx I always use liquid nails. You can spread it with really flat. I wouldn't used a notched trowel. I'm not just telling you something I think will work. I do this quite frequently with success. Personally I would prefer contact adhesive and a piece of MDF. But if you already had the plywood, and some liquid nails it would work. I didn't know your budget or the level of finish you were looking for.

 

[rsanter]

Attach it to the bench using contact cement or other adhesive.
Use some small screws around the edges just to hold the edges over time from potential separation.
Drill the holes for the vise through the metal and wood at the same time. Use a piece of scrap wood clamped to the top that you drill through that's then the metal and the base wood.
Done

Bob

 

[ilovevocs]

I prefer brushing the contact cement on or rolling it. I don't like to clean up the overspray from spraying it or waste time masking.

Watch a laminate counter top how to on YouTube and you'll get the basics of using dowls for positioning and cement application.

 

[geologist]

Plasma cut it?

Might sugar the edges without shielding gas.