Cutting baseboard under kitchen cabinet
- Thread starter branimal
- Start date
djbmw
Well-known member
Just end the baseboard 1/2" before the door. Use quarter round past that if you really feel the need, or just caulk the last inch of drywall to floor. Example pics of how to finish baseboard ends attached.
Attachments
Michigan Mike
Well-known member
It looks like you havn't completed the cabinet install. I would highly recommend a filler piece on the cabinet. That would move the cabinet over and then clear the base.
Tom Sestito
Well-known member
Use a filler.
If you can't, then adjust the baseboard back by ¾" or so
If you can't, then adjust the baseboard back by ¾" or so
jar944
Well-known member
Generally on framless or full overlay cabinets there is a 1-2" filler on the end to avoid interference issues that.
You can miter the base to drop lower but it's going to look off.
You can miter the base to drop lower but it's going to look off.
Steve W.
Well-known member
Come on, guys, this is GJ. Just bulldoze the place and start over. 
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FrankLee
Well-known member
Shim the hinges inside the frame and move the upper panel over to match the door.
It looks like you have about 1/2" on the right side.
It looks like you have about 1/2" on the right side.
wssix99
Well-known member
As said above, fillers are used against the wall to give you the buffer. They also allow you to adjust for the wall, which is usually not straight. (like the cabinets)
If you can’t/don’t want to add a filler: consider ripping a 3/4” (or whatever the minimum is to clear the door) out of the flat section of the baseboard. Consider doing this for the entire room with these cabinets. Consider taller bases for the cabinets. Consider routing a 45 along the full bottom front of the door sufficient to clear the baseboard. Or don’t.
rip 1/2" or 3/4" off the bottom ( however too high the base is) so you can lower the base on that wall . no one will notice.
Smart!
I assume this wall eventually meets another wall.
How is he supposed to match the trim up?
you're assuming there's no cabinets in the other corner... if that's the case he can always cut it all down.
larry4406
Well-known member
I have had to resort to notching the top of the base and cutting it backwards at 45 degrees when there has been a cabinet/layout bust that would not allow a filler to be used. Notched to run under the cabinet and fill the toe kick and 45'd about 1/2" back from the cabinet frame.
Door will still not swing a full 90 degree.
Best case is the filler for the full overlay cabinet.
+1 on cheating the height of the base if it does not run into another space/room.
Door will still not swing a full 90 degree.
Best case is the filler for the full overlay cabinet.
+1 on cheating the height of the base if it does not run into another space/room.
Seems with no other info we're both making assumptions.
I'd still do the filler panel and fix the whole thing. But that assumes he can slide the cabinet to the right.
Michigan Mike
Well-known member
I reccomended the filler earlier but am liking switching the swing of the door. It is a little inconveniant for access to the cabinet but if it is not possible to move the cabinet over it is the easy fix.
lolaetype
Well-known member
That's what I would do unless moving the door so the hinges are on the right side would create another interference issue. And it's an easy fix on virtually all factory built cabinets. My second choice would be to reposition the cabinet with a filler between it and the wall. I'm picky and OCD so any bodge involving cutting the base to accommodate the cabinet door would annoy me every time I looked at it.
Rusted Nut
Well-known member
Filler, or zero clearance hinge.