Cutting brick accurately

[andyvh1959]

I have an u[coming project that involves cutting brick cleanly and accurately on an interior brick feature in my house. I need to cut a clean vertical line through mortar and brick to install a corner cabinet. My house has a huge central two level fireplace which also has a brick "planter" area in the dining room. It just takes up floor space and is not really functional for anything other than decorations. The feature is not aligned to the fireplace flues so I plan to take out two sections of brick and build in a cabinet and countertop/serving area for the dining room. The attached diagram shows my plan. Anyone know of a really good masonry blade of a sawzall? I'd use some form of guide on the saw shoe to make sure I cut straight.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

Picture?

 

[Shiftless]

Sounds like you need a masonry wheel on your angle grinder. Look for a diamond wheel.

As far as I know, you can’t cut brick with a sawsall.

 

[dogdog]

for small works, I have used a grinder and a diamond blade to score the line then hit it with a chisel point of the mason hammer... dusty though... I have used a HF tile saw as well wet, and don't have dust as much. All these cause I don't know how to use that mason hammer professionally...

 

[andyvh1959]

Thanks. I have used a diamond wheel on my 4" grinder of other tile work so I know that would work. When I get down to the floor level I may need a masonry blade in my sawzall. I hope to produce a clean cut line, but I will likely use some wood trim to cover the cut line as well.

 

[engineer2]

Diamond wheel on an angle grinder will do most of it. Have someone with a spray bottle of water to keep the dust down. Regardless, it will be somewhat dusty and the dust gets everywhere. You can get diamond blades for your recip. saw, but I've never tried them.
You can cut a brick somewhat cleanly with hammer and a sharp chisel. Just go around it several times smacking the chisel with the hammer at your cut line until it breaks the brick.

 

[kbs2244]

I would rent a mason saw
due to the dust use it outside

 

[danski0224]

Arbortech Allsaw

Allsaw AS175 | Arbortech

www.arbortechtools.com

 

[rustyjames]

I would rent a mason saw
due to the dust use it outside

Most are wet cut these days. In fact dry cutting masonry is unlawful in some areas.

 

[engineer2]

OP said the brick sections are next to the fireplace inside his house, so bringing his fireplace outside to cut on a masonry saw may not be an option.

 

[Monza Harry]

OP said the brick sections are next to the fireplace inside his house, so bringing his fireplace outside to cut on a masonry saw may not be an option.

Certainly not with that attitude E2! LOL!
An improvised track saw from a metal guarded circular saw and some angle iron may get you close. It will be messy but I think doable. [Lots of powered suction wouldn’t be a real bad idea either] Harry

 

[Uncle murph]

I have an u[coming project that involves cutting brick cleanly and accurately on an interior brick feature in my house. I need to cut a clean vertical line through mortar and brick to install a corner cabinet. My house has a huge central two level fireplace which also has a brick "planter" area in the dining room. It just takes up floor space and is not really functional for anything other than decorations. The feature is not aligned to the fireplace flues so I plan to take out two sections of brick and build in a cabinet and countertop/serving area for the dining room. The attached diagram shows my plan. Anyone know of a really good masonry blade of a sawzall? I'd use some form of guide on the saw shoe to make sure I cut straight.

However you do it ,it’s going to be messy,really messy!

 

[The Cobbler]

if I understand correctly, you plan to cut out the brick to add a cabinet. is the cabinet going to cover your cuts? if not the end face of the brick will show & be noticeably cut
if I was doing that job, I would anchor a board along the brick to use as a guide , and follow along ( probably with an angle grinder & masonry wheel) after I got a line in the brick about 1/4" deep I would angle the wheel in so as to get away from the line you just created ( and avoid gouging it) and cut at a bit of an angle .
the cupboard would have a pc that could be scribed to the brick line to follow any variances in it

 

[andyvh1959]

I agree. Yes, it will be messy. So I'd come up with some sort of shop vac attachment to minimize that aspect of the cuts. Or perhaps get a bunch of plastic sheeting and form a big bag over the cut area. Yes, depending on where I cut the brick, like just into a web I'll get a solid brick end. If not I'll get a portion of the brick hollow. I do plan some sort of panel or trim for the cabinet to cover the brick cut but I still want the cut line as clean and straight as possible, and it's likely I'll apply some brown colored mortar where the trim meets the cut line of the brick.

If I make a 1/4" deep cut line with a diamond wheel on my 4" grinder I may be able to chisel/break the remaining brick section on that line. But you are right to make the actual cut into the brick after the initial line at a slight angle. That way the initial cut line has the best option to fit to the edge of the trim, panel or cabinet.

 

[PelicanPines]

The dust will find a way to become annoying no matter what you do to prevent it. I have a set of floor to ceiling poles that allow me to plastic TENT the area to minimize exposure all over the place.

I swear... I cut 5 feet of tile to reposition the door stoop thing... I found tile dust on top of the shower curtain rod a week later and on the inside of the window area long after that. Under the toilet seat... everywhere.

 

[dogdog]

Thanks. I have used a diamond wheel on my 4" grinder of other tile work so I know that would work. When I get down to the floor level I may need a masonry blade in my sawzall. I hope to produce a clean cut line, but I will likely use some wood trim to cover the cut line as well.

Oh! you are doing it on an existing wall ... cutting the existing brick wall that is already mortar in?
They do have those gas / electric 14" concrete saws with blades for wet or dry blades...... I think there are even a version of the concrete chainsaws if you wanted that... but home projects yea I have used diamond blades for concrete then chisel... more of a chisel tip on sds max.

Ebay have this.. 10" or 12" might help... I have the Harborfreight 8" version that I used when I remove the ceiling with lots of fine dust in the basement sections at a time sealed, vented outside.... Dusts still everywhere. but not as much when I vented it outside... neightbors on the other hand are confused pissed on the fine dust around the neighborhood.

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[engineer2]

You might want to get to Menards and get the Zip-Wall kit or something like it. I'm demoing a bathroom and we are going to have to dust the entire house when I'm done. Wife is OK with it, but your wife may not be.

 

[andyvh1959]

Good idea on that, definitely need to contain the work zone as much as possible.

Hmm, that Zipwall kit could be used in my cycle shop when I do painting, a temporary paint booth.

 

[wasfast]

I looked into the Zipwall kit for the same purpose but the price is really high for a few uses. I finally found these at Harbor Freight and they work just as good for $14.99 each:

2-in-1 Support/Cargo Bar

Amazing deals on this 2-In-1 Support/Cargo Bar at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

They also extend to 114" and will work on tapered ceilings.
Bring your own plastic

 

[ericlar80]

Turbo blade on a skilsaw.

 

[yelchevelle]

Because this is garage journal and spending a fortune on tools is the only solution. I bought one of these for a huge paver job. They work pretty good, but it’s a chore to tote around with you. We prefer wet cutting just because it’s easier to move and you cut with the front part of the blade vs the back part on a vacuum system

 

[danski0224]

The Arbortech tool I linked above is designed to do exactly what the OP wants to do.

 

[Joemctag]

Think that I’d take a small hammer drill and honeycomb the mortar , carefully chisel out the bricks near where it’ll still show. You’re going to knock out most of the front planter walls with a hammer, I take it. Like Cobbler said, sawed brick looks bad, so plan on putting back half bricks or whatever at the end and corner. The biggest challenge will be matching the mortar. Google it. Store-bought probably won’t match. It’s the sand, too. Also, clean your brick after.
The planter’s only about 16” high or so?

 

[dogdog]

The Arbortech tool I linked above is designed to do exactly what the OP wants to do.

I was interested till I saw the price tag and the review of the blade life... shocking for a $$$$$$$$ tool

 

[danski0224]

I was interested till I saw the price tag and the review of the blade life... shocking for a $$$$$$$$ tool

It'll be cheap compared to using a grinder or other comparable tool and dealing with the mess.

 

[engineer2]

It's only a thousand dollars and you can sell it when you are done with it.

 

[mrpizza]

It's only a thousand dollars and you can sell it when you are done with it.

For $35 to some junkie on facebook marketplace.