To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Cutting brush below soil

lardy1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2019
Messages
3,389
Location
Michigan
I'm looking for a set of loppers (I think) that will be strong enough and durable enough to stand up to the rigors of cutting below the surface. Leaving any kind of stump makes it hard to mow and the shoots just come back from the remnant. It's probably asking a lot and if it's made to withstand that it will not be cheap. I also don't want to ruin an expensive set of loppers quickly by abusing them.

Is there such a beast on the market?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

MadMechMaster

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
779
Location
Frankfort, IL
For small bushes, I use a pick mattock and rip them out. Even smaller, a machete. It would rip up the sod a bit, but grass grows back quick enough for me.
 

bluedog225

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
3,241
Location
Texas
I had an old corona clipper. Large. The fiberglass handles broke so I put a couple of 3‘ pieces of metal fence post over the handle stubs. Fit perfectly. They weigh a ton but are perfect for jabbing into the earth around mesquite to get a good low cut.
 

Bubba Fett

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2018
Messages
1,516
Location
Eastern NC
I guess it depends on the plant. You may have to use a hatchet, or dig them out with a shovel.

I've been researching how to get rid of green briars, and it looks like there is no way to permanently get rid of them without digging up the tubers, which look like potatoes, or the creature from John Carpenter's "The Thing". Like that creature, fire seems to be the best way to deal with them once you get them out.

I've also been trying to get rid of yuccas, which are very hardy. I've dug one up, hacked it, and threw it in the woods, only to later find that it had rooted where it landed and continued to grow. Meanwhile, more sprouted where I had dug the original out.

Yuccas and briars will apparently be the only living things on the Earth after the sun expands and boils the oceans away.
 
Last edited:

Built To Work

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2023
Messages
90
Location
Stafford, VA
I'm in the same boat, except with bamboo roots.

Tried a pick ax, but it was less than effective.
Tried with a mini chainsaw, but dulled the chain quick (chainsaw blades hate dirt)
Tried with sawsall, but again dulled the blade quick.

The 66" Root Debris Rake looks like the perfect tool. The stupid bamboo has trees mixed in with it, so I don't know if it will even work - getting hung up on tree roots.

I think I'm going to use the chop and rot method. (Cut bamboo, spray with glyphosate, then apply potassium nitrate)
I have about a 1/8 acre remove. The problem with my method is that I will have pungi sticks everywhere for about two-three years.

IMG_6467.jpg
 

mike93lx

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,379
Location
Richmond, VA
I'm in the same boat, except with bamboo roots.

Tried a pick ax, but it was less than effective.
Tried with a mini chainsaw, but dulled the chain quick (chainsaw blades hate dirt)
Tried with sawsall, but again dulled the blade quick.

The 66" Root Debris Rake looks like the perfect tool. The stupid bamboo has trees mixed in with it, so I don't know if it will even work - getting hung up on tree roots.

I think I'm going to use the chop and rot method. (Cut bamboo, spray with glyphosate, then apply potassium nitrate)
I have about a 1/8 acre remove. The problem with my method is that I will have pungi sticks everywhere for about two-three years.

IMG_6467.jpg
Excavator and a dumpster
 

bwringer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
10,248
Location
Indianapolis
A sawzall worked for me better than loppers.
Yep. Cheap HF recip saw with the roughest toughest rootinest tootinest Diablo carbide blade I could find. The blade cost more than the saw. Just jab it in there and go for it. I haven't managed to kill the saw yet, somehow. I did quickly kill several cheap blades before ponying up the cash for a good one.
 

bluedog225

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
3,241
Location
Texas
The puller bear works for bamboo. But hard work.

a 6” trench or so will keep the roots from expanding. That is, you can chop the roots when they try to cross. Then roundup works pretty good on the rest. Takes a few years.
 

Built To Work

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2023
Messages
90
Location
Stafford, VA
Googled "puller bear". First thing the website says is not to build your own, it will be un-safe. My first thought before reading that was I can build my own. sigh.
 

RTM

Well-known member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
13,071
Location
SF Bay Area
Try this.


I do have a dirt hatchet, and dirt loppers that get used for stump removal, as I don’t own a tractor.

You aren’t going to get rid of bamboo without serious digging, and meticulously pulling every bit of root you can find.
 
Last edited:
OP
L

lardy1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 17, 2019
Messages
3,389
Location
Michigan
Curious on feedback. I keep a cheaper pair for cutting in the dirt and a nicer pair for above grade.

That's pretty much what we do too. Use older ones for the dirt work and newer for branches and pruning. She bought a ratcheting one from Harbor Freight that actually didn't work bad for some things but it doesn't stand up to the abuse and it's only a 90 day warranty. My problem isn't bamboo. It's autumn olive and **** like that that just doesn't want to die.

I agree on the tiger saw method. I just don't have a good enough cordless one for the task. I suppose I could put the generator out there and use my old corded beast but was hoping to find something a little more convenient.
 

acer66

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
4,418
Location
Western North Carolina
Yep. Cheap HF recip saw with the roughest toughest rootinest tootinest Diablo carbide blade I could find. The blade cost more than the saw. Just jab it in there and go for it. I haven't managed to kill the saw yet, somehow. I did quickly kill several cheap blades before ponying up the cash for a good one.
Milwaukee AX Carbide Pruning Blades are another option.

Buddy sets fences for a living and used to use a chainsaw for roots which requires a lot of resharpening.

Now he uses reciprocating saws with blades made for that.
 

bwringer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
10,248
Location
Indianapolis
Yep. Cheap HF recip saw with the roughest toughest rootinest tootinest Diablo carbide blade I could find. The blade cost more than the saw. Just jab it in there and go for it. I haven't managed to kill the saw yet, somehow. I did quickly kill several cheap blades before ponying up the cash for a good one.

Milwaukee AX Carbide Pruning Blades are another option.

Buddy sets fences for a living and used to use a chainsaw for roots which requires a lot of resharpening.

Now he uses reciprocating saws with blades made for that.

I use a $20 Harbor Freight corded recip for this sort of subsurface abuse, but yeah, if I didn't have a 100' extension cord that can reach anywhere on my property, I sure wouldn't want to beat up an expensive cordless like that.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

four.cycle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,525
Location
Tacoma, Washington
ooooo I really like the "Sawzall" approach suggested by @bwringer ! :thumbup:
blades are crazy cheap at Harbor Freight for those things.

I've toasted more than one good bar on more than one chainsaw cutting below grade.
Not smart, and it's become a very expensive way to prune shrubs.

Years ago, I found these somewhere after snapping in half the last pair of wooden-handled loppers I will ever bother to pick up:

loppers.jpg
loppers

One-piece forged steel. Will cut anything that I can get to fit into the jaws. I have put my entire body weight on the handles to persuade stuff. I win every time.

No markings. Don't recall where or when I bought them. I remember they were about $45 bucks out the door (at least 35 years ago) which seemed like a LOT of money at the time.

(When I was working the trail up at Ruby Beach, I ran into what I thought at the time was the world's largest Red Elderberry (seriously - it was about 5 inches in diameter at the ground) - and I had no problem chopping off all the tap roots under it so that the "stump" wasn't visible to the tourists.)

Really intrigued by the Sawzall idea though... I'm going to have to try that. (Too bad mine's a corded model, though.... how much are those cordless jobs at HF? :unsure: )
 

jives

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
2,803
Location
Central NY
Removed hundreds of buckthorn brush stumps at just below ground level. Used both the Makita cordless recip saw with a Diablo carbide pruning blade (longest one so you can curve it) and Fiskars loppers "titanium" on the smaller stumps. Use 20% solution of glysophate (Roundup) on the stump, and you are done.
 

Built To Work

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2023
Messages
90
Location
Stafford, VA
This is directly from Round Up Website"

Bamboo

  1. Hand-pull the bamboo Pull out as many shoots, roots, and rhizomes as possible. For bamboo plants that are particularly pesky, cut the canes as close to the ground as you can.
  2. Bring in back-up Cut larger plants just below the stem joints. Then, pour one tablespoon of undiluted Roundup® Weed & Grass Killer Super Concentrate into the hollow reservoir. Bam! The canes will start turning brown in 7–14 days.
  3. Follow up frequently Keep an eye on the infested areas and treat any foliage that starts to grow back. It also helps to keep the area freshly mowed. Eradication may take several years of diligent effort, but don’t worry. You got this.

I've been doing this every day for a week with the runners - spraying undiluted glysophate on the new shoots that pop up. I kick them over first.
I will let you all know in another week if I see and results.
I also cut the existing stalks and pour into the stumps. I can only cut about 100 at a time, or else the pile gets too big.
Burned 100 last weekend. POP POP POP

I see many posts about the sawsall and pruning blade, I'll try out better blades.

I say we take off and nuke the entire site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure.
 

four.cycle

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
28,525
Location
Tacoma, Washington
RE: Yucca

I have typed this out more than once - maybe not on this site:

There was one under my bedroom window when I was a kid. My mother had "yard guy" dig it up. The following year, my mother had "yard guy" dig it up again.
A few years later, when I was old enough to operate a garden shovel with some degree of effectiveness, I dug it up again, poured about half a gallon of gasoline in the hole, and tossed in a match. That seemed to do the trick, at least for a few years before I moved out.

My sister has one on the side of her house. She hired a couple guys to dig it up more than once. Last time I was over there fixing a fence she asked me about it. I told her I don't dig holes any more.
 

Wolley

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2022
Messages
420
Location
Maine
I have a puller bear and it works great for single stems. Also depending on species. I think I have the medium size one. I've removed lots of multiflora rose and honey suckle along with trees. Below grade Bunches of autumn olive Id go with an axe or mattock.
 

T444e

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 25, 2016
Messages
448
Depending on size of the plant and quantity in the area I'll use my Felcos, loppers (don't know brand), Hackzall, spade, mattock, occasionally an axe or mini ex as required for the task. Sharpen or replace blades as needed on the Felcos and loppers; sharpen spade, mattock and axe as needed.
 

WWheeler

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
4,105
Location
Middleofnowhere USA
This is directly from Round Up Website"

Bamboo



I've been doing this every day for a week with the runners - spraying undiluted glysophate on the new shoots that pop up. I kick them over first.
I will let you all know in another week if I see and results.
I also cut the existing stalks and pour into the stumps. I can only cut about 100 at a time, or else the pile gets too big.
Burned 100 last weekend. POP POP POP

This is how we reclaimed a patch of bamboo. After cutting and roundupping everything down to ground level I just kept using a propane torch to anything that tried to sprout. It took many months of doing that but the bambu is no more and now it's thick green grass.
 

johninct

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2010
Messages
2,592
Stihl long handle. Also, cutting flush to the ground is fine. If it grows up a little or the dirt erodes around it, just cut it again.
 

desertdog256

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Messages
103
I haven’t picked up my loppers since I bought these. They ride with me all the time on the atv for doing just what you are talking about all around my property.

1715217457764.jpeg1715217556428.jpeg1715217710580.jpeg
 

Sumboodie

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2021
Messages
10,658
Location
AK
IMG_5199.jpeg

Gets more than roots.
Have a grapple with tines like that on skid steer. Works ok though best to go slow cause bound to find something too big to rip out.
Was spoiled with root rake on a 750 Deere dozer and kinda forgot the skid steer is like 20,000lbs lighter.
 

Pexto

Well-known member
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
638
I haven’t picked up my loppers since I bought these. They ride with me all the time on the atv for doing just what you are talking about all around my property.

1715217457764.jpeg1715217556428.jpeg1715217710580.jpeg

I've got two of those three. The chainsaw and the recip are great. But the loppers frankly scare the heck out of me.
 

desertdog256

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Messages
103
I've got two of those three. The chainsaw and the recip are great. But the loppers frankly scare the heck out of me.
I know what you mean. Those things are powerful. So far, I still have all my fingers.

Of the three, the pruners are the tool I use most. Any limb up to about an inch, it’s one pull of the trigger. For bigger stuff you just get the blades on the limb and pull the trigger multiple times. Usually two or three repititions will get it. If three attempts won’t get it, I grab the recip.
 

bassJAM

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2020
Messages
856
Location
Cincinnati, OH
A lot of people don't sharpen their shovels, but if you do they slice through small roots pretty easily. Larger roots I use a reciprocating saw with a tree trimming blade. I haven't had the issue with them dulling quickly, even when I've cut a lot of thick roots covered in clay and soil they still work better than a regular lumber-type sawzall blade.
 

egdede

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
2,063
I'm in the same boat, except with bamboo roots.

Tried a pick ax, but it was less than effective.
Tried with a mini chainsaw, but dulled the chain quick (chainsaw blades hate dirt)
Tried with sawsall, but again dulled the blade quick.

The 66" Root Debris Rake looks like the perfect tool. The stupid bamboo has trees mixed in with it, so I don't know if it will even work - getting hung up on tree roots.

I think I'm going to use the chop and rot method. (Cut bamboo, spray with glyphosate, then apply potassium nitrate)
I have about a 1/8 acre remove. The problem with my method is that I will have pungi sticks everywhere for about two-three years.

IMG_6467.jpg
Maybe that's 'the Doan' and not bamboo. Arundo donax. Does it sprout silk at the top like corn? The Doan is hard tho kill once it makes an appearance : ( the runners sprout 10-20 feet away.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom