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Cutting laminate countertop

Splinter

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Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
156
Location
St. Louis-ish
I need to cut a bit off the end of the countertop. All I have to work with is a circular saw. Should I score the laminate with a razor knife first to avoid chipping? Would a fine tooth circular saw blade help?
 
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SilverLake

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Joined
Sep 23, 2007
Messages
20
Location
Brighton MI
i'd suggest cutting it face down if you have to use a circular saw. put some masking tape over the cut line and saw it with a sharp blade. The theory is that you want to cut it with the teeth going into the material.

dan
 

dxdexter

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Aug 1, 2006
Messages
1,923
Myself and my wife run a small kitchen cabinet shop (on the side)and we run into this, on site, many times. If you are only cutting a small amount off the end, and are going to recap the exposed edge, then I usually use a handsaw and belt sand any imperfections, if necessary. You can then contact-cement a cap and trim with a laminate trimmer and ease edges with a small file.

I would never consider using a hand held circular saw in cabinet related work, this tool is for rough work (framing, etc), but if you so decide, then use a straight edge clamped as a guide and cut with the laminate down to prevent tear out caused by the blade direction. Unless you own a laminate or plywood blade then, it would not be economical to purchase one just for one cut.

If you are not comfortable with a handsaw then you can cut to within a 1/4" of the scribed line and then belt-sand up to the line. This is the common tool used to scribe-in or fit a counter top to a imperfect wall. Professional results can easily be achieved.

If this is "post formed laminate counter top" then you may have to glue in some filler strips to give the proper edge profile once the end cap is installed.
 

Piper

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Nov 17, 2006
Messages
590
Location
Muskoka, Canada
your other possible option is to rough cut it as discussed above (upside down, tape) but leave 1/4 - 3/8 inch extra, then clamp the straight edge and do the final portion to the straight edge with a router spinning an edging bit. I've done this many times with great results. You just have to make sure that your rough cut doesn't splinter the laminate past your "good" line. Make sure you buy a laminate blade.

Piper
 

rickairmedic

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May 31, 2005
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4,165
Location
louisville ,Ky
You dont need no stinkin laminate blade put masking tape at least 2" wide tape on the top side of the cut so it covers the area you are cutting turn the counter over and cut from the backside this way as mentioned before the blade is turning into the laminate and not likely to cause tearout on the laminate . I have always done it this way and have never had a problem even cutting out openings for sinks.

Rick
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,503
Location
visalia ca
how much do you have to cut off? do you have anough for a 'test cut'?

I vote rotozip or router if you can borrow one (of just buy a cheap one) prefrence is to use a down spiral bit.

bob
 

Bigger Hammer

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Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
173
You dont need no stinkin laminate blade put masking tape at least 2" wide tape on the top side of the cut so it covers the area you are cutting turn the counter over and cut from the backside this way as mentioned before the blade is turning into the laminate and not likely to cause tearout on the laminate . I have always done it this way and have never had a problem even cutting out openings for sinks.

Rick

Ditto this. As long as the teeth are traveling into the face of the laminate, the countertop board will back it up and prevent chipping. Becareful cutting across back splashes too. Cut from front to back and stop before you get to the back splash. then with the help of someone else, flip it right side up and cut down the back side of the back splash. You can always leave a little extra to belt sand off if you're nervous about the chipping.
 
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mulepackin

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Dec 13, 2006
Messages
909
Location
Montana
I used to do alot of laminate and counter top work. Pipers idea of the router is in my experience the absolute best way to cut a prelaminated panel of any kind. Used this method extensively when applying a wooden edge. This more or less joints all the surfaces (substrate and p-lam) to the same plane. If no router is available to you, then the flip it over, cut from the bottom side is the best. Doesn't have to be a laminate blade, but should be carbide, and a fairly high tooth count.
 
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Splinter

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Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
156
Location
St. Louis-ish
150 tooth blade: check
masking tape: check
razor knife: check

Gonna flip her over tonight or tomorrow night and cut. I've got room to work with, so I'll probably make a test cut or two to get it down.

Thanks guys!
 

Kevin54

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Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Ditto this. As long as the teeth are traveling into the face of the laminate, the countertop board will back it up and prevent chipping. Becareful cutting across back splashes too. Cut from front to back and stop before you get to the back splash. then with the help of someone else, flip it right side up and cut down the back side of the back splash. You can always leave a little extra to belt sand off if you're nervous about the chipping.

And ditto this. Thats the way I have always cut it and never had it chip out. Just make sure your circular saw blade is sharp. Cover the complete area that is getting cut with masking tape and make your line on the backside. Just make sure you cut on the side of the line that you don't want to keep. Remember that you will be working upside down, so the side of the line changes.
 

twinwillows

New member
Joined
Sep 24, 2007
Messages
4
Location
Far W KY
Like the others have said - cut it upside down w/masking tape on the laminate side. I've never scribed w/a razor knife so I can't comment.

One thing to mention - I like to put a couple of 2x4's underside to hold the cutoff piece - set your saw blade to just cut the top & not thru the 2x4's. W/o the support underneith I find the off fall sometimes wants to twist away & drop making a break in the laminate likely..
 
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Splinter

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Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
156
Location
St. Louis-ish
used: masking tape and the 150 tooth blade + the flip over recommendations, worked very well. Backsplashes are tricky, but I had plenty of extra to practice with.

I didn't see the tip on placing the 2x4s under it to hold the fall off, ended up taking a tiny chip off when the first piece dropped, duh, lesson learned on piece #2.

Thanks guys!
 

ern

New member
Joined
Dec 25, 2013
Messages
2
Myself and my wife run a small kitchen cabinet shop (on the side)and we run into this, on site, many times. If you are only cutting a small amount off the end, and are going to recap the exposed edge, then I usually use a handsaw and belt sand any imperfections, if necessary. You can then contact-cement a cap and trim with a laminate trimmer and ease edges with a small file.

I would never consider using a hand held circular saw in cabinet related work, this tool is for rough work (framing, etc), but if you so decide, then use a straight edge clamped as a guide and cut with the laminate down to prevent tear out caused by the blade direction. Unless you own a laminate or plywood blade then, it would not be economical to purchase one just for one cut.

If you are not comfortable with a handsaw then you can cut to within a 1/4" of the scribed line and then belt-sand up to the line. This is the common tool used to scribe-in or fit a counter top to a imperfect wall. Professional results can easily be achieved.

If this is "post formed laminate counter top" then you may have to glue in some filler strips to give the proper edge profile once the end cap is installed.

If you don't use a hand held circular saw, what do you use? I own a table saw but not sure how to cut the backsplash when I get to that point? Also have an electric chop saw (use the table saw for the main cut and the chop saw for the back splash?)
 

ern

New member
Joined
Dec 25, 2013
Messages
2
If you don't use a hand held circular saw, what do you use? I own a table saw but not sure how to cut the backsplash when I get to that point? Also have an electric chop saw (use the table saw for the main cut and the chop saw for the back splash?)
 

signcrafter

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Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
12,325
I use a circular saw and leave about 1/8" to 1/4" extra on. Then scribe to fit and then use a belt sander to creep up on the scribe line. Works perfect every time.
 
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