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Cutting metal on a table saw

bobj49f2

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I have project that I need two pieces of 1-1/4", 1/16" wall C-channel, six feet long. I can't find the correct C-channel I need but I can get 1-1/4"x1-1/4", 1/16" square tubing. It would work perfectly if I cut one side out of it.

I could use my plasma cutter but I'd have to make a fixture to hold the plasma cutter steady and then run the length of the tube making a two cuts. Then I'd end up with two jagged edges that I'd have to grind smooth. Also, when cutting into a tube with a plasma cutter it make a really sooty mess inside.

I was thinking I could use a metal cutting blade in my table saw. Not an abrasive blade like used in a cut off saw, but a metal cutting blade for a circular saw. I've used one in my circular saw to cut 1/4' angle iron and it worked really nice and didn't seem to produce hardly any sparks. I've used my table saw numerous times to cut aluminum up to 1/4" thick. I figure if I use the fence on the table saw I'd get a pretty decent straight cut that wouldn't need much dressing with a grinder.

Has anyone used a metal blade on a table saw to cut metal? The major concern I have is possible kick back but I think there is less chance of that with the metal cutting blade because it doesn't have the aggressive teeth that a wood cutting blade has.
 

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woody 73

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For my two cents Don't do it.

Back in my younger days I needed to cut a lot of metal so I used an abrasive blade; it worked but I lost a few years off my life, and all the saw dust caught on fire and any plastic melted on that old table saw.

Funny thing because just a few months ago I sold that old girl and the guy buying it thought it strange that it was covered in all burn marks. He thought the saw was in a fire but that was not the case. Today I would not do that on my table saw but everyone is different.
 

Kevin54

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It can be done (sorry Woody) and we used to cut 1" aluminum plate of a Contractor's saw quite frequently at work. I would not cut anything any tougher than aluminum though on a table saw. I would also use somewhere in the vicinity of a 60 tooth or more carbide blade.

But in cutting aluminum, you want to make sure you use a full face shield, and you want to use some sort of lube when cutting to keep the aluminum from getting stuck between the teeth and galling.

I've cut aluminum on my Delta Contractors Saw here at home, and also on my DeWalt Compound Miter Saw with good results. I always make sure that I have all of the nooks and crannies vacuumed out of any previous sawdust that may have been left in there.

But like I said, I only cut aluminum on the saws and making absolutely positive that I have a full face shield on, and the buttons on my shirt buttoned up so no stray chips get in there. Anything other than aluminum, I will always find some other source to cutting it, even if I have to pay someone to do it for me if I don't have the proper equipment to work with the material.

BE SAFE!!!!!!:thumbup::thumbup:
 

GCncsuHD

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For my two cents Don't do it.

Back in my younger days I needed to cut a lot of metal so I used an abrasive blade; it worked but I lost a few years off my life, and all the saw dust caught on fire and any plastic melted on that old table saw.

Funny thing because just a few months ago I sold that old girl and the guy buying it thought it strange that it was covered in all burn marks. He thought the saw was in a fire but that was not the case. Today I would not do that on my table saw but everyone is different.

I'd agree, but for these two 6' pieces, I'd do it. If he had a lot more to do I'd probably let a shop handle it, or since it is 1/16" channel I'd just have a metal shop make it out of flat sheet and break it.
 

JonnyMac

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I would clamp another fence on the other edge so that no lateral control of the material is needed, it will just guide itself right through..
 
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bobj49f2

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I would clamp another fence on the other edge so that no lateral control of the material is needed, it will just guide itself right through..

That's a great idea! I didn't think of that. My biggest concern is loosing control of the metal.

I've cut a lot of aluminum on my table saw, I know about the hot shrapnel that flies around and noisy as hell. I have a customer that rough cuts aluminum before machining on his CNC mill. They also finish the sharp edges on a router table.
 

srmofo

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I would clamp another fence on the other edge so that no lateral control of the material is needed, it will just guide itself right through..

maybe with a feather board that might work, but that sure sounds like a great way to launch a piece of steel across the shop.

No way would I run steel through my table saw, Id buy an abrasive blade for a cheapy circular saw I have and run it down the length of the tube with a guide.....outside
 

Bobcat753

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I would never ever do that. Its meant for wood not metal. Please stop cutting any metal with it before you kill yourself.:scared:
 

kazlx

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That would probably be easier to do on a vertical band saw. Especially if it's steel. Set the fence and go through both walls in one shot.
 

dogdog

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Most Metal Cutting blades spins at lower RPM than the Table Saw / Wood cutting Saws.... The $100 blade will be toasted in few cuttings.

Not to mention that if something (your cutting piece) gets caught with that blade on your table saw it becomes a projectile or slices the hand off. There's that blade guard and anti kick back thing there for a reason, even though we don't use it most often.

Get that evolution saw if you must cut, the Harbor freight one equivalent is not good.
 

lilscorpion

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How about some alternatives from most expensive to least -

80/20 10 series, 1010 in the length you need to cut. 80/20 linear bearing and make a plasma torch mount (or use zip ties). Cut away.

Get on your local Craig's list. Find a cheap radial arm saw. Remove the saw part and attach your torch. Pull the handle, cut 18 inches, reposition the material, cut 18 inches...

Get a skate board. Attach the plasma torch to the skate board. Roll the skate board along the tubing slowly and cut...

Make a new friend that has a CNC plasma and ask him to show you how it works...

You may all think I'm being a smart *** but I'm completely serious. Look around and think outside the box. I'd probably do the 80/20 linear bearing thing because it wound be a handy guide to have for a plasma, a router, a jig saw, a circular saw, etc. I'd make the accessory mounts as I need them.
 

zkling

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Aluminum yes with a cheap carbide or non ferrous blade. I don't personally have the stones to do steel. Also keep in mind usually when you cut a slot in a enclosed shape the risuidal stresses in the shape end up releasing and clamping along the kerf, making for a potentially very dangerous situation. I'd run it through a vertical metal cutting bandsaw with a fence. That way you will get both sides at once and not have to worry about it clamping on the kerf.
 
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southalabama

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Last time I tried cutting a small piece of wood it kicked back and knocked my wind out.

I'd be worried about a kick back sending sharpe metal through me. I'd probably be tempted to try it but if I could find a heavy leather apron on a catchers chest protector I would feel safer.

If you feel comfortable using a circular saw on metal construct a jig to hold the metal and with a fence to slide the saw down.

Another option. An air powered cut off wheel. Go to hf get a handful of cutoff wheels and an air powered tool. I little more effort to keep the cuts straight.
 
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bobj49f2

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The reason I first posted this question was to get your reaction to my idea and I got a variety of response and I appreciate it.

How about have a shop bend what you need on a brake

Bob

That was my first thought. I have a place that does sheet metal parts for my business and they do a good job. The parts I need are roughly 5 feet long with a step down on each end. They gave me a quote of $40 a piece. I can buy the square tubing for less than $20 for a 20 foot piece.

Surely there's another supply house that could ship you the pieces you want cheaper than the cost of cutting up tubing? You've the entire internet to choose from.

Shipping these pieces will cost $$$, that is if I could find the C channel I need. As with any project I'm trying to keep the cost down.

I've decided to build a jig and use my plasma cutter to make the cuts, a lot less drama. The only thing making me want to do something different is the mess. I have cut square tubing with my plasma cutter and it leaves a sooty mess inside the tube. I'll just have to grind off the edge and clean up the soot.
 

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gus1962

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There are inexpensive Taiwan made metal cutting band saw, consider buying one. Think about wood and metal projects in the future.
 

indianbullet

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Don't use a rip fence. My old man was a professional knife grinder for 30+ yrs I have seen him cut literally hundreds of pieces of I knife steel and mild steel with a cut off wheel on his table saw. Dress the blade and you just go slow as you would anyway, and don't have anymore blade exposed than is necessary.
 

BlindViper

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You start cutting and your gonna upset the metal and it will twist and close on the cut. Make sure ya video tape is and start the video with Hey ya'll watch this
 

chris fresh

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Take two 2x4's and lay them flat on a bench.Lay them side by side and drop one side of the angle down between them.Then clamp the 2x4's together at the ends to sandwich the angle in between them.Now clamp/tape/screw/glue another board to one of the 2x4's as a straight edge.Use a skillsaw with a lenox blade (7 1/4) for cutting steel.Then just run the straight edge and cut.

I use a worm gear skillsaw with one for cutting plate.Faster, cleaner,easier than the plasma.
 

66dave

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Option 1-plasma cutter
Option 2-fiber blade on die grinder
Option 3-have someone else cut it

If you cut that on a tablesaw many things could go wrong, please play safe in the garage
 
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